| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Ripping up carpet, replace with vinyl, fuel pump hatch.
Back around 2013, we were on a trip, and the RV died. The fuel pump relay had burned up. I believe this was a precursor to the pump itself dying. Within a year, the pump itself burned up. When I say "burned up", I mean it had melted the metal of the pump. When this burned up, it also burned up the inertia cutoff switch. This was the OEM pump. It was replaced in 2013. The shop that did the replacement put the wrong pump in. Long story short - Airtex's web site did not take into account a part number change in September 1990 so they gave out the wrong fuel pump part number. Made the gas gauge run backwards. So, I had to have it replaced again with the correct one (E2060S).
This pump probably failed 3-4 years ago but I never knew it or suspected it until I got a digital fuel pressure gauge installed on the fuel rail and caught the failure in the act. I also installed ammeters on the line to the high pressure pump and at the inertial cutoff switch (I would prefer to have installed it at the in-tank-pump itself, but I cannot access it). The pumps are getting the correct amount of voltage and draw the proper amount of current (when the in-tank pump is running).
I believe the problem is simply that Airtex pumps are not quality pumps.
Anyway. Floor time. I'm thinking of cutting out a square opening, and fencing the perimeter with 2x4 or similar framing structure. This will give the hatch and surrounding floor something solid to sit on so there is no give when you walk across it. The removable plug/hatch will be floor foam with sheet metal on top of that, and the vinyl on top of that. I will drill small holes around the perimeter of the vinyl to allow flat-head screws to recess down into the vinyl and bottom out on the sheet metal. This way there will be no screw heads protruding up from the vinyl. I was not going to bother with a hinge as hopefully I won't be removing this hatch often. There will be another piece of sheet metal down on under the floor foam on the bottom "hull" plate of the RV, which I'll install with regular sheet metal screws. This will support the hatch and anyone standing on the hatch. When the hatch is removed, and the bottom hull plate remove, I should have access to the top of the fuel tank.
|
maillemaker
|
07/26/20 07:31am |
Tech Issues
|
|
Ripping up carpet, replace with vinyl, fuel pump hatch.
So, some back story:
I have a 1990 Winnebago Warrior on an E350 chassis. I have been having fits with the fuel pump. It died in 1993, was replaced with the wrong pump, finally got Airtex to admit they specified the wrong one, they sent me the correct one (E2060S). Got it replaced again. Since 2016 I have been chasing an intermittent shutdown while hot problem. I have replaced nearly every electrical thing on the engine. Replaced fuel filter and high pressure frame rail pump. Never thought about the in-tank pump since it was "brand new".
Well, I finally installed a digital fuel pressure gauge, and finally caught the failure in the act. Typically you have to run on a hot day, and then, when you slow down, it will die like it is out of gas. I initially suspected vapor lock, even though this is a fuel-injected 460 engine. I bound a thermocouple to the return of the fuel rail out of the engine compartment and the temp never got over 128F while driving at interstate speeds. If you stopped and shut off the engine for a few minutes, the temp would go up to about 145F, but as soon as you started the engine it would go back down again. Not a vapor lock problem.
Engine runs about 195-199F with AC on on a hot day. Transmission is about 180F on a hot day. This is from digital gauges I have installed.
Finally, when it died and I caught it in the act, fuel pressure was only 12 PSI on the rail.
Also, I installed a digital ammeter on the high pressure pump, and another on the trunk at the inertial cutoff harness. Thus I could see the current draw from the high pressure pump, and the total current draw of the in-tank pump and the high pressure pump together.
Well, I discovered that they read the same. This clued me in that the in-tank pump was not running. I confirmed this by disconnecting the fuel line from upstream of the high pressure pump - sure enough, no fuel from the tank line. Also, I put a mechanic's stethoscope on the tank - no sound.
So if you google "Ford 460 vapor lock" you will discover that there are countless threads out there with people with this exact same problem. My guess is that their in-tank pump has died, and the high pressure pump usually is able to siphon gas from the tank and pump it up to the engine, unless the fuel temp gets up over 100F. My guess is that when high pressure pump sucks from the tank, the low pressure it creates upstream of the pump is enough to reduce the boiling temperature of the gasoline enough for it to boil and then the high pressure pump cavitates.
Anyway, I had the pump replaced AGAIN, and when they gave it back to me, I hooked it up to 12V power. Sure enough, it did not work. Then I wiggled the spade contacts at the actual pump itself, and lo and behold, the pump started working. The pump worked fine - it just had bad electrical contact at the pump connections!
Well, I had a new Airtex E2060S installed, so I figured what the heck, I've got a new pump now.
Well, as soon as I got it back from the shop, the gas gauge is wandering all over the place from time to time. And the second weekend after I got it back (shop was closed the week after 4th of July) it died AGAIN, same symptoms. Dies while hot, 12 PSI on the rail, no current draw from the in-tank pump, wait 20 minutes and it works fine again.
Well my shop says they will replace the pump again. But I'm tired of having to have the shop do this for me because it involves dropping the tank.
So, to the meat of the story.
This RV has wall-to-wall carpet. I've never liked this, as it gets dirty in a hurry. I would prefer vinyl flooring.
While I'm at it, I want to cut an access hatch in the floor to get at the fuel pump.
I'd like some suggestions on how to go about this, and make a nice looking end result with the hatch in the floor.
Thanks,
|
maillemaker
|
07/25/20 10:10pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Water Hearter Source For Full-Time
Electric is the way to go if you have a choice.
You don't have to get it filled up.
There is less danger of fire.
There is no danger of CO poisoning.
If electric is included in your camp site fees then it's "free".
|
maillemaker
|
04/29/20 04:28pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
2 pin panel-mount electrical socket and plug?
Hoping you electrical experts can point me to something non-RV related.
I just bought a pull-behind sprayer for spraying weed killer in my yard. It has a 12V pump on it spray the chemicals. Not sure how much current it draws. I'll be pulling it behind my garden tractor.
This is it: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YEQ45PC
It comes with alligator clips to attach to the power source (battery).
My battery is under the tractor seat and I'm afraid if I clip connectors onto it they will touch the metal bottom of the seat and short out. Plus it's not easy to turn the pump on and off while driving the tractor that way.
So I'm going to install a 12V rocker switch on the dash of the tractor, and then I want to install a panel-mount socket and plug on the back of the tractor.
So I'm looking for a panel-mount connector for this purpose. 2 pin.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
|
maillemaker
|
04/13/20 08:04am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: self driving sooner than we think!
I think you missed my point...they are in wide scale application now.
I got your point, I just think you're overstating "wide scale". I've never seen any AI assistance mechanisms built into the roadways, but of course I'm a human so maybe I just haven't noticed. I did some googling on the "Connected Vehilces V2I" and found lots of articles that talk about what it might look like in the future but nothing that indicated the current state of roll-out.
So, I don't think they are in "wide scale application now".
|
maillemaker
|
03/09/20 07:39am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: self driving sooner than we think!
So self driving cars came out 5yrs ago?
I worked on a project 5yr ago that did just this in a midsize city.
Google "Connected Vehilces V2I"
We installed systems that duplicate traffic signals and signs electronically. The signal systems are now moving into wide scale implementation to accommodate cars that have the systems...
This is exactly what I'm talking about. When this becomes widespread, you'll know we've reached a turning point.
Pavement markings can already be detected by onboard cameras, so not a lot of need for those.
Until it snows.
Prediction: No matter how good self-driving cars get, they will never be perfect or infallible.
It won't take many accidents until the **** lawyers sue the manufacturers of self-driving cars into bankruptcy.
They don't have to be perfect or infallible - just statistically safer per mile than humans, which they already are.
You're right on the money angle, though. The nail in the coffin for human-driven vehicles will be when insurance companies start charging higher premiums for human-driven vehicles, and reduced premiums for self-driving ones. People will be priced out of human-driveable cars.
In fact one can easily wonder whether insurance will even be required for the owners of self-driving vehicles. If you are not driving, and you did not code the driving software, why would you be responsible at all in an accident? At that point, you are, literally, a passenger. It may very well come to pass that the manufacturers will be held liable for accidents.
|
maillemaker
|
03/06/20 09:50am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: self driving sooner than we think!
You will know the turning point has been reached when they start altering road construction and signage to accommodate autonomous vehicles. When they start embedding things in the roadway, or special stripes on the roadway, or special visual or RF beacons on the roadside, that serve no purpose but to help AI vehicles navigate the roads, then you will know that the turning point has come.
Today, everything you see on and around roadways is to enable human drivers. Soon, there will be things there to enable AI drivers.
|
maillemaker
|
03/05/20 07:06am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Here we go again yet another Trombetta "Big Boy" failure!
If its purpose is to isolate the house batteries from the starting batteries during cranking and when the engine is OFF, it will only be ON when the engine is running and you are trying to charge the house batteries from the engine. I am certain that your engine alternator can not generate anything near 300A !
In my RV, there is a momentary switch option to gang the house batteries to the engine batteries during cranking, so that the house batteries provide an emergency jump start if the engine battery is dead.
I think engine starters can pull 200-500A if I'm googling correctly.
|
maillemaker
|
02/27/20 08:18am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Filtering Gasoline from Tranfer Tank
I did a quick search on Amazon for "fuel transfer pump" and there are numerous powered and unpowered choices:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fuel+transfer+pump&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Also found this filter kit in the above results:
https://www.amazon.com/Fill-Rite-1200KTF7018-GPM-Particulate-Kit/dp/B000BYNEIA
Another:
https://www.amazon.com/GOLDENROD-595-3-Canister-Fuel-Filter/dp/B00LKWZCFA
Steve
|
maillemaker
|
02/27/20 07:00am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Generator Placement questions
I have no problem running my built-in generator in a Walmart parking lot overnight. Go park off in the far corner you're fine.
|
maillemaker
|
02/25/20 07:58am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: black tank chemicals
I quit using chemicals in my holding tank about 4 years ago. I get no odors inside the camper. When flushing, the flapper is only open for a few seconds, and a deluge of water is going down the hole, so very little gas can escape from the holding tank. Most of it probably goes up the vent stack, as it should.
I also never clean my holding tank in any way. I simply fill the holding tank to maximum with water at the end of my trip, so that when I open the waste gate I get a "mega flush" pushing all the contents down the poop pipe.
As far as the smell when dumping, unless you are spilling sewage when dumping there should be no smells. The dump station at my storage lot has 2 dump entries - one a threaded PVC cleanout which I use with my threaded adapter, but there is also a traditional "flapper" hole in a cement bowl for people who only have a "elbow in the hole" type of dump.
If you are using the old "elbow in the hole" type of dump then you might have some smells escape. But I always use my threaded adapter so there is no leakage when I dump. Sometimes you get a whiff of gas coming out the "flapper" hole while I'm dumping down the clean-out hole, but oh well. You'll never smell it more than 5 feet away and in 10 years of RVing I've never once had anyone waiting behind me while I dump anyway.
It's cheaper not to use any chemicals, and it's better for the environment.
|
maillemaker
|
02/20/20 07:51am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Question about Onan Generator
As others have said, the generator will automatically charge the house batteries through the battery charger built into the converter when running, but generally, it will not charge the chassis battery unless the "AUX BAT" switch is pressed. (not recommended for long term charging)
My MOM switch is powered by the house batteries, but AUX BAT is powered by the engine battery so the key must be in RUN for the batteries to be ganged.
This is so you cannot permanently gang the house batteries to the engine batteries while the engine is off - otherwise you could accidentally drain both your house and engine batteries and be stuck.
My Onan 4BGE will also shut down if the engine battery is disconnected (mine starts from the engine battery). But while running the inverter charges the house batteries.
Strange that it would actually run off of the engine battery but not charge it. I did not know that.
Steve
|
maillemaker
|
02/10/20 12:04pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Need help replacing charging circuit solenoid.
So this weekend we had a break in the rain (finally) and I got to look at the solenoid. Before I replaced it, I wanted to see if, when I pushed the switch to the MOM position, if I was getting full voltage across the solenoid.
So I disconnected the engine battery, and then I first measured voltage of the House batteries at the house post on the charging solenoid. It was like 12V. Then I had a helper hold MOM and I measured the voltage on the other side of the solenoid. It was the same.
So, the existing solenoid seems to be functioning fine.
So I went and had a look at the engine starting solenoid. And I discovered that the positive terminal nut was loose. Not flop-around loose, but I could pull on the battery cable lead and easily turn it on its post. So it's quite likely that I had a poor engine battery connection at the positive post of the engine start solenoid.
I pulled all the terminals off the post, wire brushed them, and put it all back together and snugged it down good and tight.
|
maillemaker
|
02/10/20 11:58am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Panels don't run things
I guess that's why I see so many dry campers running generators.
Generators are easy to understand. Solar, batteries, inverter.. not so much.
The main reason is that barring a mechanical malfunction or running out of gas, generators just work, all the time, any time. Night or day, under trees or not, the generator always provides electricity. Push a button - bam - you've got 110V juice.
Solar Panels would be useful if you were truly doing long-term, off-the-grid living. But I only boodock in my RV for longer than a weekend about once every 2 years. I run out of water way before I run out of gas for the genny. Heck I run out of water before I deplete my batteries.
|
maillemaker
|
02/04/20 02:28pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
