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 > Your search for posts made by 'marpel' found 43 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Is there a back flow valve on the hot water outlet

I have two valves on my system and when in bypass, some antifreeze gets in the hot water tank. Is there an easy visual way to determine, without taking things apart, if a system actually has a check valve? If mine does, maybe it needs to be replaced. Marv
marpel 10/31/22 08:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing Water Heater

Thanks everyone for the responses. Grit dog - Din't ask if anyone thought a larger water heater would fit in my particular trailer. Just wondering if anyone had done this sort of thing before and if they could provide some "guidance/be aware of" input. If someone has done this sort of thing before (and I wouldn't know without asking), they sure would know how much of a project it is to switch out. Marv
marpel 10/18/22 04:08pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Replacing Water Heater

Small trailer with 6 gallon hot water tank. Am considering, prior to next season, replacing it with a 10 gallon. Is the difference in size that significant, and has anyone done this sort of thing, who may provide advice or things to be aware of? Marv
marpel 10/17/22 06:13pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Any experience with GM rear view camera ?

ccjack, You should confirm the length of the cable before abandoning the OEM camera. When I picked up my '22 SLE in March (in Canada), I thought it was 60 feet. Actually just checked GM Accessories page and it quoted 60 feet. Maybe visit the parts department at the dealer to confirm. And also confirm if the OEM camera is compatible with your truck. When I ordered mine, I was told by the sales guy and the sales manager that the camera definitely would work with my system. I found out after the truck arrived that was not so. Find someone who actually knows about the camera. Marv
marpel 10/13/22 05:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Raising Trailer

Thanks very much for the replies. Some good advice and well accepted. I'd still like to be able to use the Trailer Aid, in the event of flat tire, so perhaps I will try a second 2 x 6. And the main reason I was thinking about re-adjusting the brakes enroute is our trip will be to/from Vancouver, BC and Denver, Co, with side trips along the way. Much driving and a lot of up/down hills. That, and trying to follow Dexter's advice. Marv
marpel 09/15/22 03:34pm Towing
Raising Trailer

During replacing brake assemblies on all four wheels, I used, for the first time, a Trailer Aid ramp to raise a wheel on each side to replace the assembly and tweak the star wheel to get the right amount of "brake drag". As I only have one ramp, I had to raise/lower four times. The trailer was attached to the truck hitch during this process. The use of this ramp worked perfectly when the ramp was under the front wheels as the rear wheels raised off the ground by a couple inches. However, when I put the ramp under the rear wheels, the front wheels would not raise off the ground, even when I laid a 2 x 6 under the ramp. I had to then use my garage jack to place under the front wheel's spring u-bolt and raise it enough to just get the tire off the ground. Using the jack, though, is extremely tight and I had to really, push/pull it to get it under the u-bolt (the lowest the jack will go is 4 inches), And when jacking the trailer in the conventional method (under the frame on one side), it really becomes dicey as the trailer is precariously balanced and moves quite a bit, so I quite like the Trailer Aid, when it works. I was also hoping it would be useful when/if changing a flat tire and would be easy to carry along. Dexter suggests driving the trailer for a couple hundred miles, then re-doing the "brake drag". The only time I can do this is during a trip (leaving in a couple days), and I really do not want to take this jack with us as it weighs a ton. The Trailer Aid is 6", with 2 x 6, 6 1/2". I also have a couple ramps that I used to use when doing truck oil changes and they are 10". So, is 10 inches too high to use in place of the Trailer Aid (that would be only one wheel raised 10 inches)? I presume the Trailer Aid is set at 6" for some reason(s). Marv
marpel 09/14/22 08:26pm Towing
RE: Electrical Help Needed

First, again, many thanks for the continued information. I have/am learning a heck of a lot as I work through this stuff. Regarding what I was informed by the RV employee, I realize the pedestal power is AC and the battery system is DC, but as the lady who I spoke with has been in the parts section for at least 15 years, I thought she was knowledgeable and that there was some sort of relationship between the DC system amperage and the pedestal amperage. And I showed her the old breaker and told her it was connected to the battery...Go figure. I checked the Converter and it appears it has eight gauge wire and from manufacturer details on this Converter (WF-8955) the output power (rated DC current) is 55A and max input current is 11A. Not sure which number is relevant, but if it is the output power, does that mean I need a 60 amp breaker?? Afidel, not sure this is the same as "charging circuit" and "charger rating" that you mentioned. Thanks, Marv
marpel 09/09/22 09:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Help Needed

Thanks everyone for the continued comments (massive learning curve for me, so lots of good advice). Initially, it was my intention to just replace the 7 pin cable and brake wiring. But as I got into it, I could see a bunch of corrosion locations, which I figured would bite me later so figured I would re-do/replace some obvious items. That is how I came upon the circuit breaker and as it was accessible, figured I may as well replace that too. Funny thing was, there were no markings at all on the old one, so I took it into an RV place and was advised to just get one which was the same amperage as the pedestal amperage for the trailer (in my case it is 30 amp), which is what I did. As the junction box was a residential box and it was absolutely crammed with wiring, all connected with typical residential marrettes and a lot of corrosion, I purchased an RV waterproof box and re-did the wiring connections. As to the brake wiring, I replaced with the same gauge wire and ran a single blue and white from the box to the centre of the axle(s) then pigtailed off a wire to each wheel. So, each brake has exactly the same length of wire running to it (don't know if that is relevant but the OCD in me said to do it that way). I did purchase a brake assembly for each wheel, and my next step will be to replace the old with the new. Marv
marpel 09/08/22 08:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Help Needed

Enblethen, Thanks very much. One of the photos you linked to looks almost exactly like this device, so it looks like it is a circuit breaker. One of the things that caused me to hesitate in thinking it was a circuit breaker is the location (outside, fairly accessible to weather and road splash-up). Always figured circuit beakers were kept in closed, dry locations. Once again, thanks for your help. p.s. travel a lot from Vancouver BC to Denver Co along I-90 and quite like the Moses Lake and surrounding area. Marv
marpel 09/07/22 09:19pm Tech Issues
Electrical Help Needed

As part of correcting a no brake issue on our trailer (small 23 foot), I decided to freshen up and rewire some components of the braking system. I will quickly admit, I knew/know very little when it comes to the intricacies of trailer electrical system(s) and I am learning "on the job". So far, I have replaced the 7 pin cable, junction box, emergency brake cable component and run new brake wiring from the junction box to each of the four, soon to be replaced, brake assemblies. All the wiring has been laid out, but many actual connections are still pending. One of the latest stumbling blocks is a small device at the front of the trailer (previously hidden under an amateurish bo-jack cover which is like a hand formed thin plastic cover, open to the elements at the bottom - original to the trailer). It is attached to the front frame cross member, is about 2 x 1 x 2 inches high, and has two threaded studs, to which four cables are attached by ring terminals. I was unable to fully inspect it, due to impending darkness, but it has BAT etched in it, and one of the wires goes to the black wire of the 7 pin cable. I think another wire goes to the battery, but can't confirm that yet (due to wire loom). It is located right beside, but not connected to, a grounding screw in the frame. Because neither the grounding terminal nor this device are protected from the weather, there is noticeable corrosion. At the very least, I will be cleaning up the corrosion, but don't know yet what else needs doing. However, I am trying to determine what this device is, what it does and, whether it can be just cleaned up or needs replacing. Have done some internet searching and came up with either a busbar or stud type circuit breaker (the closest photo I could find is a Princess Auto 6 to 24v stud type circuit breaker). Any help is greatly appreciated, and sorry for the long post. Marv
marpel 09/07/22 08:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brakes

Resurrecting this thread. As I have been tied up looking after my grand-daughter, have been unable to work on the trailer until today. With old 7 pin cable and new one which I replaced today, the lights etc work, but none of the brakes operate (tandem axle). I hooked up a brand new battery and pulled the breakaway switch. The brakes did not activate at any wheel. I have checked the wiring at the front of the trailer and was only able to go under the trailer and do a visual on the brake wiring to all wheels, and everything looked OK (I know this is not definitive). So, if the brakes are wired in parallel, which it appears they are, and if all brakes are inoperative, does this mean the issue is in the main cable somewhere prior to the first wheel connection? Just trying to get some advice on exactly where I should concentrate on looking. Unfortunately, I am still doing babysitting duties so my time is limited to work on this. And the best part,I only have until this next weekend to figure this out. Thanks in advance for any help, Marv
marpel 06/07/22 07:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brakes

Grit dog, Yes, the brakes worked fine previously, although with another truck. Due to circumstance, the trailer has sat for a number of months (bit over one year). And I have been able to confirm the current truck's trailer brake system does work (with another trailer). Marv
marpel 05/30/22 08:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brakes

Thanks very much for the continued replies and advice. I just went through jacking the trailer and inspecting/regreasing etc, each wheel. I am comfortable with that stuff, but didn't consider checking the electricals. It was only when I hooked up the trailer to the truck (brand new '22), that I discovered no brakes. And as electricals is not my strong suit, I sought advice from the forum. And I am learning a lot, so thanks for that. I think next step will be, as others have advised, activate the breakaway system. Then go from there. Having said that, My grand-daughter is about to arrive for a couple week visit and she demands my full attention, so the brakes will have to wait a bit. As we are driving her back home (BC to Denver) with the trailer, I will have to figure this stuff out prior to heading out. Thanks again for all your help, Marv
marpel 05/29/22 05:01pm Tech Issues
RE: 7 pin cable

Thanks for the continued replies/advice. The question about the 7 pin cable came up prior to discovering an issue with the brakes (other thread), so Grit dog is right, I suppose I need to figure out the brake issue (which may be related to the cable, I guess). Marv
marpel 05/29/22 04:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brakes

Thanks for the replies. And I should have been more clear. I actually hooked up the trailer to the truck and pulled it down a few streets, fully applying the brake controller, then applying the foot brake. Both a few times. Absolutely no resistance at all, either method. Marv
marpel 05/28/22 08:49pm Tech Issues
Trailer Brakes

As per another thread, I have yet to change out the 7 pin cable. Prior to doing so, I decided to confirm whether the old cable is still usable. I hooked up the 7 pin to the truck (which recognized the trailer), and ran through the lights/turn signal/brake lights process (can't recall what that process is called) and all lights worked and message indicated no issues. However, the manual brake controller does not activate the trailer brakes, nor does applying the truck brake pedal. So, a couple questions: - Don't really understand the a/m check process. Does it only show the wiring to the various lights is working? In other words, this does not test the full brake circuit? - if that is correct, no brakes then suggests there is an issue somewhere after the 7 pin cable? - And if there is an issue at one of the brakes (ie loose wire), will that affect all brakes? Thanks in advance, Marv
marpel 05/28/22 06:24pm Tech Issues
RE: 7 pin cable

Thanks for all the replies: Just to clarify though, the new cable was not too short as the new box was placed right beside the old box, so the, loosely strung, replacement cable appeared able to reach the old box quite easily. And BB_TX, your description was exactly what I was planning on doing. Take photos or label current box layout and just repeat with new cable. Logically seemed pretty straightforward. Just figured, because no-one seemed to want to tackle the junction box connection in any of the vids/tutes, that I was missing something that made it difficult. Marv
marpel 05/25/22 09:27pm Tech Issues
7 pin cable

Due to a bit of age/corrosion, I have decided to replace the 7 pin plug/cable on the trailer. As I usually do when I am about to tackle something I haven't previously dealt with, I searched the net and YouTube for tutorials/instructions just to make sure I don't miss anything. The funny thing was, out of all the vids/articles I reviewed, only one could be found that touched on replacing the entire cable (ie wiring directly into the junction box). Every other one described how to either replace the plug (by cutting the old plug off) or cutting/splicing the cable farther up. In fact, in one video, the fellow showed the old cable, and existing junction box, then proceeded to cut the old cable halfway, and splice in a few feet of the new cable and plug using another junction box to connect the new and old cables, then fastening the new junction box right next to the existing junction box (with the old cable running from one box to the other). To me it seems simpler to remove the entire old cable, get a new cable and run it right to the existing junction box. Or am I missing something?? Marv
marpel 05/25/22 04:55pm Tech Issues

Thanks for the replies. Marv
marpel 05/25/22 04:32pm Towing

Have had three trailers and multiple tow vehicles over the years. Have always required a WDH. New truck (Sierra 2500) and hooked up the, fairly small, trailer for the first time to this truck. Pre and post measurements at the front and rear wheel wells. Difference at the front is 7/16th inch higher and rear is 3/4 inch lower. Have not done any weigh scale, but presumably the difference in height(s) has some correlation to the effect of the weight on the truck. So, is the difference in heights minimal enough that a WDH is unnecessary or should the set-up be weighed? And, does a WDH provide any other benefit, other than distributing the weight? As I am so used to having a WDH hooked up, it would seem strange not to have one. Marv
marpel 05/23/22 07:58pm Towing
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