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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Goodyear Endurance is 5 years too old?
StirCrazy,
Not sure if it makes a difference, but my tires are 205/75/14.
Anyway, I have just finished getting quotes from 4 or 5 tire dealers here in the greater Vancouver area, and the most expensive was approximately $1200 (Fountain Tire), while the others were a couple bucks either side of $1000 (OkTire, KalTire etc), with the cheapest, I just ordered from, was a local small auto shop which I have been a customer of for the last ten or so years, at just over $900. All these prices include tax, all fees, and included installation.
Maybe the tire size is the difference, but I'm surprised they are that expensive up there.
Marv
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marpel
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05/19/23 05:19pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Goodyear Endurance is 5 years too old?
I am of the same mind as Mark Twain, to me tires are the most important items on a trailer (and tow vehicle for that matter).
The last set of tires (also Goodyear Endurance) I bought 4 years ago, arrived at the dealer with two year old production date. I was not happy, but the dealer said "take em or leave em". Unfortunately, I was about to leave on a trip so had no choice.
So, they are now 6 years old (even though only 4 years of use) and I am shopping for replacements (at $1000 CDN, for 4 trailer tires...jeeez). Under different circumstance (short trips, easy speeds), I would likely let them go another year or two, but our trips are always long distance (BC, Canada - Denver, Co) on Interstate Highways at 64-65 mph and I won't take a chance getting a high-speed blowout in the middle of nowhere.
As others have suggested, it probably should depend on your anticipated use (short vs long trips etc) and how well you have cared for them, among other things.
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marpel
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05/17/23 05:29pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Firearm storage in maine before Canada
Funny about the "fruits and vegetables" comment. A while ago, we travelled into the U.S. with our trailer for a few weeks. While down, we did the usual food shopping.
Unexpectedly, we had to temporarily return home for a very brief visit (literally a couple hours), before we headed back to the States. The only thing the border officer was concerned about was fruits and vegetables coming into the States.
We had a few apples left from the original trip, purchased in the States and which had U.S. sellers stickers (and we even had proof of purchase) and she had us throw them in the garbage, prior to entry. No questions about liquor, guns, money or anything else.
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marpel
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04/10/23 07:49pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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Kitchen stove fan "flap".
I have to replace the stove fan vent flap (or whatever it is called) on the exterior of the trailer which hinges at the top and is light enough to lift when the stove fan is activated and expels fumes/smoke/steam etc.
The flap and hinge pins are made of flimsy, cheap plastic and this is the second time I am having to replace the flapper (actually have had to replace the entire unit as they apparently don't sell just the flapper) due to the hinge pins breaking. The last time, I net-searched and made enquiries at the RV dealer parts department, trying to find a product which has a stronger (even metal) composition, with no success. The parts department was happy to sell me a replacement (exactly like the previous) unit, but offered no real assistance in finding a better solution.
I have the new unit sitting in my shop, waiting for spring time replacement, but thought in the meantime I would enquire if anyone knows of a better product.
Marv
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marpel
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02/23/23 07:30pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Request Structural Change.
Thanks to everyone for the replies.
Sort of figured it would be a no go.
Marv
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marpel
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02/21/23 06:35pm |
Travel Trailers
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Request Structural Change.
Has anyone had any experience with having a structural change made to a trailer, during manufacturing?
Looking for a TT that has no slide-outs and the ones of a size which we like all have slide-outs (not interested in Airstream). Are any manufacturers receptive to not cutting the wall and installing the slide-out? I understand it would change the weight balance, but I'm sure we could find something to replace the missing weight.
I realize we could contact each manufacturer, but looking for anyone who may have some actual experience with this.
Marv
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marpel
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02/20/23 09:43pm |
Travel Trailers
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Wireless Camera Relay
Have wanted to set up a camera on the rear of the trailer. Initially thought I was going to be able to run wired camera to the truck's Infotainment centre, as per assurance from dealer at time of purchase, but turns out they were wrong.
Although I prefer not having a separate monitor for this purpose, I have started looking at after-market systems. Would rather not have to run wires along truck and through firewall, so figure wireless is an option. But have heard/read of issues with some systems, regarding loss of signal.
Not knowing that much about these things, why can't one have an antenna on the roof at the camera location, and a second antenna on the roof at the front of the trailer. This second antenna would have direct line of sight to both the camera antenna and the truck cab, and act as a signal relay/booster? Or is this not possible??
Marv
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marpel
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01/26/23 07:41pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Heated Floors
Thanks for the responses.
Marv
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marpel
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12/12/22 05:03pm |
Tech Issues
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Heated Floors
Have read a number of threads over the years about heating an RV in cold weather and the issues with things like propane requirements as well as condensation etc. And along with those posts, a number of suggestions from others to mitigate these issues.
However, I can't recall ever seeing a post/discussion about heated floors (either electric or liquid) and wonder why this is not a viable option available to the average RVer (I understand some highend RVs have in-floor heating).
Why is that? Are there problems with this type of heating, and would this type of heating reduce condensation?
Marv
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marpel
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12/11/22 07:32pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is there a back flow valve on the hot water outlet
I have two valves on my system and when in bypass, some antifreeze gets in the hot water tank. Is there an easy visual way to determine, without taking things apart, if a system actually has a check valve? If mine does, maybe it needs to be replaced.
Marv
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marpel
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10/31/22 08:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing Water Heater
Thanks everyone for the responses.
Grit dog - Din't ask if anyone thought a larger water heater would fit in my particular trailer. Just wondering if anyone had done this sort of thing before and if they could provide some "guidance/be aware of" input. If someone has done this sort of thing before (and I wouldn't know without asking), they sure would know how much of a project it is to switch out.
Marv
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marpel
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10/18/22 04:08pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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Replacing Water Heater
Small trailer with 6 gallon hot water tank.
Am considering, prior to next season, replacing it with a 10 gallon.
Is the difference in size that significant, and has anyone done this sort of thing, who may provide advice or things to be aware of?
Marv
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marpel
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10/17/22 06:13pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Any experience with GM rear view camera ?
ccjack,
You should confirm the length of the cable before abandoning the OEM camera. When I picked up my '22 SLE in March (in Canada), I thought it was 60 feet.
Actually just checked GM Accessories page and it quoted 60 feet.
Maybe visit the parts department at the dealer to confirm.
And also confirm if the OEM camera is compatible with your truck. When I ordered mine, I was told by the sales guy and the sales manager that the camera definitely would work with my system. I found out after the truck arrived that was not so. Find someone who actually knows about the camera.
Marv
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marpel
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10/13/22 05:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Raising Trailer
Thanks very much for the replies. Some good advice and well accepted.
I'd still like to be able to use the Trailer Aid, in the event of flat tire, so perhaps I will try a second 2 x 6.
And the main reason I was thinking about re-adjusting the brakes enroute is our trip will be to/from Vancouver, BC and Denver, Co, with side trips along the way. Much driving and a lot of up/down hills. That, and trying to follow Dexter's advice.
Marv
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marpel
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09/15/22 03:34pm |
Towing
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Raising Trailer
During replacing brake assemblies on all four wheels, I used, for the first time, a Trailer Aid ramp to raise a wheel on each side to replace the assembly and tweak the star wheel to get the right amount of "brake drag". As I only have one ramp, I had to raise/lower four times.
The trailer was attached to the truck hitch during this process.
The use of this ramp worked perfectly when the ramp was under the front wheels as the rear wheels raised off the ground by a couple inches.
However, when I put the ramp under the rear wheels, the front wheels would not raise off the ground, even when I laid a 2 x 6 under the ramp. I had to then use my garage jack to place under the front wheel's spring u-bolt and raise it enough to just get the tire off the ground.
Using the jack, though, is extremely tight and I had to really, push/pull it to get it under the u-bolt (the lowest the jack will go is 4 inches),
And when jacking the trailer in the conventional method (under the frame on one side), it really becomes dicey as the trailer is precariously balanced and moves quite a bit, so I quite like the Trailer Aid, when it works. I was also hoping it would be useful when/if changing a flat tire and would be easy to carry along.
Dexter suggests driving the trailer for a couple hundred miles, then re-doing the "brake drag". The only time I can do this is during a trip (leaving in a couple days), and I really do not want to take this jack with us as it weighs a ton.
The Trailer Aid is 6", with 2 x 6, 6 1/2". I also have a couple ramps that I used to use when doing truck oil changes and they are 10".
So, is 10 inches too high to use in place of the Trailer Aid (that would be only one wheel raised 10 inches)? I presume the Trailer Aid is set at 6" for some reason(s).
Marv
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marpel
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09/14/22 08:26pm |
Towing
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RE: Electrical Help Needed
First, again, many thanks for the continued information. I have/am learning a heck of a lot as I work through this stuff.
Regarding what I was informed by the RV employee, I realize the pedestal power is AC and the battery system is DC, but as the lady who I spoke with has been in the parts section for at least 15 years, I thought she was knowledgeable and that there was some sort of relationship between the DC system amperage and the pedestal amperage. And I showed her the old breaker and told her it was connected to the battery...Go figure.
I checked the Converter and it appears it has eight gauge wire and from manufacturer details on this Converter (WF-8955) the output power (rated DC current) is 55A and max input current is 11A. Not sure which number is relevant, but if it is the output power, does that mean I need a 60 amp breaker?? Afidel, not sure this is the same as "charging circuit" and "charger rating" that you mentioned.
Thanks,
Marv
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marpel
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09/09/22 09:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electrical Help Needed
Thanks everyone for the continued comments (massive learning curve for me, so lots of good advice).
Initially, it was my intention to just replace the 7 pin cable and brake wiring. But as I got into it, I could see a bunch of corrosion locations, which I figured would bite me later so figured I would re-do/replace some obvious items. That is how I came upon the circuit breaker and as it was accessible, figured I may as well replace that too. Funny thing was, there were no markings at all on the old one, so I took it into an RV place and was advised to just get one which was the same amperage as the pedestal amperage for the trailer (in my case it is 30 amp), which is what I did.
As the junction box was a residential box and it was absolutely crammed with wiring, all connected with typical residential marrettes and a lot of corrosion, I purchased an RV waterproof box and re-did the wiring connections.
As to the brake wiring, I replaced with the same gauge wire and ran a single blue and white from the box to the centre of the axle(s) then pigtailed off a wire to each wheel. So, each brake has exactly the same length of wire running to it (don't know if that is relevant but the OCD in me said to do it that way).
I did purchase a brake assembly for each wheel, and my next step will be to replace the old with the new.
Marv
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marpel
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09/08/22 08:04pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electrical Help Needed
Enblethen,
Thanks very much. One of the photos you linked to looks almost exactly like this device, so it looks like it is a circuit breaker. One of the things that caused me to hesitate in thinking it was a circuit breaker is the location (outside, fairly accessible to weather and road splash-up). Always figured circuit beakers were kept in closed, dry locations.
Once again, thanks for your help.
p.s. travel a lot from Vancouver BC to Denver Co along I-90 and quite like the Moses Lake and surrounding area.
Marv
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marpel
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09/07/22 09:19pm |
Tech Issues
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Electrical Help Needed
As part of correcting a no brake issue on our trailer (small 23 foot), I decided to freshen up and rewire some components of the braking system.
I will quickly admit, I knew/know very little when it comes to the intricacies of trailer electrical system(s) and I am learning "on the job". So far, I have replaced the 7 pin cable, junction box, emergency brake cable component and run new brake wiring from the junction box to each of the four, soon to be replaced, brake assemblies. All the wiring has been laid out, but many actual connections are still pending.
One of the latest stumbling blocks is a small device at the front of the trailer (previously hidden under an amateurish bo-jack cover which is like a hand formed thin plastic cover, open to the elements at the bottom - original to the trailer). It is attached to the front frame cross member, is about 2 x 1 x 2 inches high, and has two threaded studs, to which four cables are attached by ring terminals. I was unable to fully inspect it, due to impending darkness, but it has BAT etched in it, and one of the wires goes to the black wire of the 7 pin cable. I think another wire goes to the battery, but can't confirm that yet (due to wire loom). It is located right beside, but not connected to, a grounding screw in the frame. Because neither the grounding terminal nor this device are protected from the weather, there is noticeable corrosion.
At the very least, I will be cleaning up the corrosion, but don't know yet what else needs doing.
However, I am trying to determine what this device is, what it does and, whether it can be just cleaned up or needs replacing. Have done some internet searching and came up with either a busbar or stud type circuit breaker (the closest photo I could find is a Princess Auto 6 to 24v stud type circuit breaker).
Any help is greatly appreciated, and sorry for the long post.
Marv
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marpel
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09/07/22 08:41pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Trailer Brakes
Resurrecting this thread.
As I have been tied up looking after my grand-daughter, have been unable to work on the trailer until today. With old 7 pin cable and new one which I replaced today, the lights etc work, but none of the brakes operate (tandem axle).
I hooked up a brand new battery and pulled the breakaway switch. The brakes did not activate at any wheel.
I have checked the wiring at the front of the trailer and was only able to go under the trailer and do a visual on the brake wiring to all wheels, and everything looked OK (I know this is not definitive).
So, if the brakes are wired in parallel, which it appears they are, and if all brakes are inoperative, does this mean the issue is in the main cable somewhere prior to the first wheel connection? Just trying to get some advice on exactly where I should concentrate on looking.
Unfortunately, I am still doing babysitting duties so my time is limited to work on this. And the best part,I only have until this next weekend to figure this out.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Marv
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marpel
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06/07/22 07:23pm |
Tech Issues
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