Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'mbloof' found 66 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 2013 Lance 1172 compatibility with Lithium ion batteries

Can a 2013, 1172 Lance TC, that has deep cycle batteries and a 100 Watt oem solar panel, take Lithium ion batteries without any new hardware or major mods? Will my charging an converting equip stay the same as well as the controller on the solar? Thanks for your advice Replace both. A new Li compatible converter charger costs a few 100$ and a solar charge controller with ether a built in Li profile or user programmable profile about the same or less. Both are simple and easy changes (at least it was for me) - Mark0.
mbloof 09/14/20 05:22pm Truck Campers
RE: 2002 Lance 1025 on new Ford F-250 with camper package?

I thought that the F-250 with camper package had the same payload as the 350 - the camper package includes front springs, extra leaf on the rear and a stabilizer. How is the 350 better? Thank you for all of the advice! As noted the Ford F250 and F350 SRW are basically the same truck with the latter having an extra leaf in the rear and higher rater tires. (maybe a sway bar?) The "major" difference is the mostly useless GVWR which on the 250 tops out at 10,000 GVWR and the 350 at ~11,500 GVWR. Door post 'pay load' is based on the mostly useless GVWR. In any application, watch the rear tire weight ratings. In ether case a decent sized camper loaded ready for camping will weigh close to over the ratings of the stock OEM tires. On my SRW the truck+camper+gear actual weight (rolled across scales) was within 100lbs of the maximum weight rating of the tires however the stock OEM tires had unexceptable sidewall flex causing unexceptable camper/truck sway so I upgraded to much better rated tires+rims. YMMV. - Mark0.
mbloof 09/04/20 08:55am Truck Campers
RE: Inverter installation question

Thanks everyone for all your input and help, I have decided ,no inverter, I’ll just make instant coffee or my wife can start the generator LOL While that is your choice, a VERY good cup of coffee can be made with the stove. - Mark0.
mbloof 08/31/20 06:36am Truck Campers
RE: new tc owner...soon

There's a reason that these campers are nicknamed "Leakwood". I had a 2001 8.5S. Surely check for water damage.
mbloof 08/30/20 09:31am Truck Campers
RE: Inverter installation question

I use a stove top expresso maker. Great coffee. ZERO electrical need or use. - Mark0
mbloof 08/30/20 09:25am Truck Campers
RE: Aftermarket wheels

First off, Safety matters and the majority of the ‘racy’ aftermarket wheels out there are of the cheap cast variety designed more for looks rather than loads - go forged like your robust Alcoa’s and stay Safe... 3 tons Agree 100% I used to haul my Lance on a 2001 F350 7.3 SRW. I upgraded the wheels on that vehicle to Vision 19.5" rated at 3900 lbs. I also ran load range F tires on it. The Visions in my first post are rated at 4300 lbs. and add the fact that my current truck is a DRW. I am assuming that I'm good to go, correct? Just to be clear: the 16" Vison Heavy Hauler 81A's are rated for 3900lbs, the 19.5" version is rated for 4500lbs. Vison Website - Mark0.
mbloof 08/22/20 11:42am Truck Campers
RE: Lithium batteries

Nope.lifepo4 don't like to be charged to 100% at least for storage--which is where most RV's are. It is academic for me--as I need -40 temperature tolerance and only one LI chemistry that can do that. So I'll be going SiO2 -30- Another link Nothing about it being "bad", they just might last a bit longer. "Bad" is storing a battery with zero charge as that will damage the battery. Most RV's have parasitic loads that are constantly drawing power even while in storage. While my camper sits in the driveway each day the solar panels will give it a charge and each night the loads will suck some energy out. Back on topic: some users will employ a DC-DC supply on their truck charge line to step up the voltage to at least 13.6V or 14.2V-14.6V so that their LiFePo4 battery can be charged while driving. - Mark0.
mbloof 08/21/20 10:54pm Truck Campers
RE: Lithium batteries

Since Li don't want to be taken to 100% I can't see why a dc to DC booster would be particularly useful. Since when? Can you quote a source for that information? The Battleborn battery I own and even the DIY LiFePo4 cells I bought along a with proper BMS have no issue with being charged to 100%. - Mark0. Many many many sources. Some BMS systems have the 90% set to read as fully charged. Battleborn might be one of them. The ideal is 40% to 90% for most Li chemistries. They tolerate 20% state of charge well. But lifespan may be shorter. Here is a source that suggest maximum of 80% SOC: Keep in mind that there are different Li chemistries and what might be recommended (via the link you provided) for other types does not apply to LiFePo4 batteries. While LiFePo4 cells have a peek voltage of 3.65V (14.6V for a 4S pack) they can be safely charged to %100 with that voltage without degration. (this is also what BattleBorn recommends (14.2-14.6V). They do however recommend 50A or less charge rate for a 100AH battery otherwise degration will occur. - Mark0.
mbloof 08/21/20 08:00pm Truck Campers
RE: Lithium batteries

Since Li don't want to be taken to 100% I can't see why a dc to DC booster would be particularly useful. Since when? Can you quote a source for that information? The Battleborn battery I own and even the DIY LiFePo4 cells I bought along a with proper BMS have no issue with being charged to 100%. - Mark0.
mbloof 08/21/20 04:49pm Truck Campers
RE: Lithium batteries

My Battleborn LiFePo4 battery is mostly charged by 136W of Solar and MPPT Li compatible charge controller. I did not bother to upgrade or update the charging from the truck. My use needs don't need it. When in a pinch, I have a 1000W Yamaha generator and can use the stock AC/DC converter to charge the battery. Granted it won't charge it fully or 'optimum', again, my use case(s) don't require or need that. For those that travel a lot and go from place to place and only stay 1 night at each place maybe better truck charging makes sense for them. Not needed for me. - Mark0.
mbloof 08/21/20 03:35pm Truck Campers
RE: How does this work?

I can't say I have ever seen a TC "unload" at any campground. Maybe if you were going to stay for a week or more. TCs (that I know of) don't have a black water tank and some (most ? all?) have external gray water so about the only thing you have to disconnect is power and pack up any loose items before running on a side trip. Outside of small water/bathroomless 'popup' campers most modern campers have fresh/grey and black water tanks and utilize a "full hook up" (power+water+sewer) camp site connections. Much like any RV, to take the camper with you for short trips/shopping you'd have to put away and secure anything you got out INSIDE the camper along with disconnecting and putting away the two hoses and power cord. Often it is much easier to simply 'drop' the camper at the site and reload when it comes time to go home (or elsewhere). While LOADING a camper can at times be challenging, unloading is usually fairly quick and easy to do. NOTE: I did stay once at a campground where the manager had a fit because I unloaded. (no, I won't go into the conversation about how it is little to no different to unhooking a trailer) - Mark0.
mbloof 08/13/20 02:58pm Truck Campers
RE: Battery Drain Help Please

My new truck battery got killed a few days after being in the truck. Turns out the radio had got south and was draining it. Had to pull the fuse. No more radio, but no more drain on the replacement. My cheap one way battery shunt got stuck one time years ago too and drained the truck. Now I always unplug just in case. My old truck developed a load that would kill a fully charged battery in a matter of weeks. After lots of probing I finally put a knife switch on the positive terminal and got in the habit of disconnecting the battery each time I was not going to use the truck the same day. Overkill but no more dead batteries. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/30/20 02:45pm Truck Campers
RE: Camper recommendation.

Am looking to buy a used camper in the future. Have owned an old one in the past so know a little. Would like advice on everything. Truck tie downs/turn buckles Water capacity Propane Air Conditioning Heater Fridge/Freezer (would like Lg. freezer) Electric jacks Outside shower Looking for a 9ft to 9 1/2ft Own a 2008 Ford F-350 diesel (with no camper tie downs) When it comes to hauling campers around in the bed of your truck the first thing you'll need to do is figure out how much weight your willing (and able) to haul on your truck. Once you have a number you can live with then simply subtract 500-1000lbs from that number. What you have left with is the approximate dry weight of a camper you can shop for. Then it is simply a matter of shopping for campers that weigh as much or less than the number that you came up with. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/21/20 08:01am Truck Campers
RE: New to Truck Camping

Couple questions on the topic. Does each seating position deduct 150lbs(Ford) from the payload? Where can you source 19.5" wheels and tires for SRW (other than Rickson)? I'm planning on a pop-up TC on a SRW, but want to tow a 19' boat or utility trailer at times. I ordered and waited 4mo for Rickson wheels (and never got) and finally simply bought a set of Vision Heavy Hauler 81's for my Ford. I got the rims and 19.5" tires from Les Schwab in Oregon. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/19/20 04:11pm Truck Campers
RE: New to Truck Camping

(where's my popcorn?) You'll find that with very little searching of the Forum this topic comes up every few days or weeks. Look forward to a hotly debated topic. My perspective? While there are some very small and very light campers specifically designed for 1/2T trucks, most campers are designed for at least a 3/4T or 1T truck (or better: 45xx 55xx) The most important thing to consider is your tire ratings. In most cases %100 of the camper weight is going to be on the rear axle. Carrying more weight then your combined tire ratings are rated for is unsafe and not recommended. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/19/20 09:20am Truck Campers
RE: Price - Northern Lite

Hi - I am in the process of purchasing a new truck camper. I am trying to understand how much "discount" from MSRP you normally see on new Northern Lite camper's. I have found it a bit harder to tell on these TC's than other RV's I have purchased. I also recognize this is an usual time so I may not see the same discount as normal. So bottom line my question is - what is a fair price off MSRP to pay for a Northern Lite truck camper? Pre-COVID and now? I appreciate any input. Thanks! You are not going to find much if any discount on Northern Lites. Low production and always in high demand. However with that said I'm told that folks in the Eastern states have been happy with Truck Camper Wearhouse and out west folks have been happy with Apache Camping Centers. Dealers only get a few every quarter and they are usually sold before they hit the lot. - Mark0
mbloof 07/17/20 03:55pm Truck Campers
RE: 271 Ah upgrade

Everyones power needs is different. For me in the winter the furnace is the biggest draw and in the summer the fantastic fan is. Currently I have a mere 136W of solar on the roof (actual ~100W output) and in the summer months my battery is full sometime between noon and 2PM. Mark0. How does eveything work in the winter when your running the furnace. I am trying to get an idea what these little camper furnaces draw in the winter. I am hoping to be aboe to get away with a 300watt pannel on the camper. Steve It is my understanding that the furnace draws ~4.8A while operating. How many AH it adds up to is dependent on outside temperature, thermostat setting and how long you have the furnace on. Depending on where you live/camp solar is not very effective in the winter months. My typical use pattern is leave for camping Friday afternoon and return noon-2pm on Sunday. While a single #27 FLA is good for overnight ether sometime Saturday night or Sunday morning the battery will be dangerously low. This is why I carry a EF1000is in the cab and run it for 1-2hrs on Saturday afternoon in the winter time to bring the battery back up. With a 271AH battery I likely won't have to carry the generator anymore. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/12/20 08:58am Truck Campers
RE: 271 Ah upgrade

For our use in the Northern U.S., 2-100 ah lithium batteries and 4-100 watt solar panels is a bit more than what we need. Spent a couple months traveling to Alaska and back last year, and didn't need to plug in the entire trip. We didn't have a generator. The batteries didn't charge from the truck either, as I have that wire disconnected. We did plug in a couple nights at campgrounds to run the a/c when it was too hot for us. Our typical daily power usage: - watch tv for 2-3 hours at night - lights - water pump for showers and stuff - electric compressor fridge - listen to music for an hour or so in the morning - 3 or 4 cups coffee Keurig on the inverter every morning - wife dries hair on the inverter every morning. Typically the batteries are at 60 - 70% in the morning before the solar starts charging them back up. If its sunny, the batteries are 100% by noon or 1PM. If it's cloudy, 5 or 6pm they are back to 100% Everyones power needs is different. For me in the winter the furnace is the biggest draw and in the summer the fantastic fan is. Currently I have a mere 136W of solar on the roof (actual ~100W output) and in the summer months my battery is full sometime between noon and 2PM. For me it was time to replace the existing #27 FLA and instead of getting another FLA I went with a Battleborn battery. (greater AH, less weight and 3x the cycle life) While the 100AH battery I currently have will fit my needs the DIY 271 project looks interesting and fun and so why not? (cause I can) Maybe I won't have to carry the generator as a backup anymore? - Mark0.
mbloof 07/11/20 12:33pm Truck Campers
RE: New Fridge questions

I have 2 Dometic RV fridges turning 19 years old and both work very well. Did some testing 2 years ago, simulating food loads and even in 100F outside, the freezer kept frozen. There is nothing that can wear on them, so beside corrosion, or carboned burner they are indestructible. It is said that if you operate them off level to much or for two long the cooling unit will no longer function. Granted the "fix" is to remove the Fridge and rotate/shake it to remix the fluids inside. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/09/20 01:49pm Truck Campers
RE: 271 Ah upgrade

Which BMS with bluetooth from Amazon are you talking about? And why that one? I think that scanning the thread will yield the OEM name of the BMS ordered. A simple Amazon search will turn up dozens of 4S BMS's (some of them with bluetooth) and the BMS I ordered (arriving next week). I liked that it already had wires attached and the Bluetooth allows adjusting and monitoring the battery. Surely there are less (and more!) expensive options available. Plus another user is using the same BMS in their DIY LiFePo4 pack. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/04/20 09:07am Truck Campers
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.