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 > Your search for posts made by 'memilanuk' found 30 matches.

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RE: Opinions on lightweight portable inverter/generators

Friend of mine bought a Harbor Freight generator with replacement warranty. never had a problem but every couple of years he takes it back and say's it dies after running a couple of hours. They give him a new one. repeat process! I don't think I'd be claiming someone like that as a 'friend'. Just sayin'...
memilanuk 11/04/21 03:35pm Tech Issues
RE: "Solar" Sub-Forum

Here's a link to the search that joshuajim suggested: Just out of curiosity... is there a way to get that search to return something other than the 'print' version of the site pages?
memilanuk 10/27/21 03:10pm Tech Issues
RE: "Solar" Sub-Forum

Solar related posts should be placed in Tech Issues. Avoid doing so in Technology Corner which will get moved to this forum. Thanks. Maybe having two sub-forums with such similar names is part of the problem? I don't necessarily have a better naming schema off the top of my head, but I can see how it would be confusing for some.
memilanuk 10/27/21 08:11am Tech Issues
RE: 4x4 Class C ?

I keep hoping they'll decide to start selling these in the USA... height=700 width=1024
memilanuk 10/22/21 09:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Generator start leads

Everything is fused as 12V or 110V as far as I can tell. I have a fuse box with easily accessible fuses or breakers in the case of 110V.. I'm betting your generator start leads ain't coming from the house AC/DC distribution panel...
memilanuk 10/16/21 10:24pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

The original question - in my mind, as the OP - was for people who actually have (or have had) onboard generators, about how they found them wired from the factory/dealer. Were they fused, or not? The discussion was never intended to be about what the starting current is or isn't. As I build out the new system, there seems to be strong recommendations to use appropriately sized fuses to protect various segments - but as found, the cables are landed directly on the battery terminals, completely inside any form of overcurrent protection. Looking at the OEM install manual for the Onan 2500 LP generator(s)... it recommends #2 AWG for installs up to 45 ft (total round trip length). It recommends *against* using the frame for the negative return if possible, and while it calls out specific torque values for the connections, it doesn't show or recommend anything specific as far as OCPD. Also, it mentions having a battery with a minimum of 360 CCA, on up to 1000 CCA.
memilanuk 10/16/21 08:02pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

Depends on how long the duration is. Think of it like a slow-blow fuse ;)
memilanuk 10/15/21 10:59pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

The LFP batteries I'm building have a JBD 150A BMS that is rated at 160A for 10 seconds, or 890A instantaneous (each). Both of them in parallel shouldn't have a problem starting the generator. One by itself... it'll be interesting to see.
memilanuk 10/15/21 04:35pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

Is the shadow on the screen hiding a decimal ? On the 1000A DC scale there is no decimal point.
memilanuk 10/15/21 04:13pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

Well, until someone else actually puts a meter on the start leads a similar Onan 2500 LP generator... height=640 width=480 height=640 width=480 Got everything back together, started the generator with the meter clamped on one of the start leads. Let it run about 15-20 minutes, then shut it down. Pulled it out, took the first pick, cleared the MAX hold, set it again, and about 15 minutes later, started it again.
memilanuk 10/15/21 11:51am Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

My mistake... it's a 36, not a 33. And yes, it's a clamp-on ammeter and yes, it does DC current as well as AC.
memilanuk 10/13/21 08:57pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

Well... the meter does have a few years on it - like 25 or so. It's a Fluke 33 from 'back in the day' when I used to do motor control work in a steel mill and needed something to check start & run currents on large (several hundred horse) AC and DC motors. At the time, the price was pretty salty, but oh so worth it ;) It did have a fresh battery, but it hasn't seen the inside of a calibration shop for a couple decades... I've got some stuff apart right now, but I'll check the start current again once it's all back together.
memilanuk 10/13/21 12:33pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

I put my generator B+ back to the B+ terminal with no fuse when I switched to Battleborn batteries When I installed my inverter and BMV-712, I put the generator B- cable on the load side of the shunt. I show the shunt wiring in this video or this one I'm trying to do something roughly along the lines of your build, same inverter charger, bigger batteries, and hopefully less kitchen reno ;) I'd watched all of those videos a few times... now that you pointed it out, I went back and watched them again. It's not really ever mentioned as such, but I think towards the end of the Battleborn video I can see some 'extra' cables that look like the generator start leads coming off the battery terminals.
memilanuk 10/12/21 08:50am Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

I'm aware of the difference between start and run current. My point was that in this case start current is pretty much all there is, which kind of skews the traditional approach to circuit protection.
memilanuk 10/12/21 06:21am Truck Campers
Generator start leads

So... fixin' to do some electrical upgrades to our TC - LiFePO4 batteries, DC-DC charger, solar... "the usual" ?? One part that has me scratching my head a bit is the starter leads for the generator. Yes, I realize the goal is to not have to use it... but I'll feel better knowing that it's still there if I need it. Anywho, the pickle is this: as we received the camper (2nd owners) the start leads (#2 AWG) land directly to the battery terminals - no fuses or other OC protection. My clamp-on ammeter shows 350-375 amps draw - for about a second or two. This is my first RV with an onboard generator, and our first TC, so I don't know if this is just the normal way these get wired up by the dealerships, or not. On the one hand, that current would be considerably above the normal rating for #2 cable - if it were constant. As a result, I really don't know how you could fuse it in such a way to protect the wire, since the start current is already in excess of what you'd fuse it for to protect the wire... on the other hand, if this is 'normal', one assumes that the manufacturer knows what they're doing, going this route... but I haven't any idea what they're basing those decisions on. Finally, and circling back to my original story... as I'm going about the process of putting in new batteries, installing bus bars (Victron Lynx distributor) and putting a new heavy duty disconnect & fuse on the + lead and shunt on the - lead from the batteries... where do I land the generator starting leads at? On the batteries, un-fused and inside the disconnect & shunt? Or on the bus bar - and fused how, exactly?
memilanuk 10/11/21 10:26pm Truck Campers
RE: Remove/replace onboard generator

East Wenatchee
memilanuk 06/27/21 08:35pm Truck Campers
RE: Bathroom access on the road

I’m not really worried about any factor, I just had questions, for instance is there a manual crank to crank out a slide out if it gets stuck in the out or in position? Yes. Pretty much a standard feature on any camper (or RV in general) with slide(s). Haven't had to use it myself as of yet, but our 910 DB has a switch to disable the motor right above the slide in/out switch. Supposedly trying to move the slide manually without disabling the motor first is quite a bit harder. Also if you’re up in the cab over is there ever a switch option to close the slide from bed? No, not stock out of the box. Two RVs ago we had a TT that had everything (slider, awning, stabilizers) controlled from a touch screen wireless remote. It wasn't the slickest interface, but it worked very well. Our 910 DB has a wireless remote for the Happi-Jac stabilizers, but the controls for the slide and awning are just inside the door under the oven. Basically you open the door, reach in and they are right there. It'd be kind of a cool DIY electronics project to make a remote of some sort... ;) My understanding is this model has a Happi-Jac slide mechanism, which is supposed to be sturdier and/or less fussy than the Schwinntek about partial opening.
memilanuk 06/27/21 12:39pm Truck Campers
RE: Remove/replace onboard generator

I found a metal supply store that was open today, so I went there and bought some plate aluminum stock and fabbed up some mounting brackets. It's a HUGE PITA to make it work because I didn't want to drill into the base pan of the generator liek Northwood did when they mounted the old skool genny, rather than use the threaded inserts and bolts to mount it. I should have it installed and running tomorrow Lookin' forward to the video ;)
memilanuk 06/27/21 11:32am Truck Campers
RE: Remove/replace onboard generator

Well... nuts. I was adding a pigtail for my portable solar panels, since campers don't seem to come with 'solar on the side' ports like trailers. In the process of trying to get the leads back in place on the load side of the Victron shunt... the lug popped off one of the 4 AWG cables for the generator starter :( Finished the rest of the job, taped up the starter leads until I get a crimper and lugs capable of doing that size of wire (planned on getting them, just not right *now*). 95F @ 10 o'clock... I'm done working outside unless something else really needs doin'. Ended up right on the verge between heat exhaustion and heat stroke a number of years back... kinda put the kibosh on my tolerance for heat in general.
memilanuk 06/27/21 11:31am Truck Campers
Remove/replace onboard generator

Recently sold the TT and picked up a TC. Already had a nice Honda EU2200 for the TT, didn't really 'need' a camper with an onboard generator but it came with one (Onan 2500 LP). It seems to run fine... low hours (just about due for it's first 20 hr oil change)... noticeably louder than the Honda, plus the vibration... On the one hand, it *is* awful nice to be able to just fire up the generator with the push of a button, when needed. No setting up the gen set, running out the shore power cable to it, making sure it's secured when we're not around, no worrying about it getting stolen... But on the other hand, we don't (currently) use a ton of AC power while camping. The majority - other than the air conditioner - could easily be handled by adding solar, upgrading the batteries, and an inverter/charger, all of which are already on the 'to-do' list. If it's just for the times/trips where we're planning on being some place warm-ish and anticipate needing A/C... then setting up the generator and shore power cable, and giving it a quick pull to start... isn't a huge deal Honestly, what I'd *like* to have is one of the new Onan 2500/2800 inverter generators - almost as quiet as the Honda, way less vibration than the OEM version, and all the pros of an onboard gen set. I'm guessing those might be a bit spendier than I'm willing to go for, though ;) If I *were* to pull the Onan 2500 LP gen set out... is there any kind of used market for these things? Better to leave the 'generator pre-wire' in place, or yank it at the same time?
memilanuk 06/26/21 02:41am Truck Campers
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