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 > Your search for posts made by 'memilanuk' found 22 matches.

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RE: Modify top bunk

FIL recently got a little 18' TT to use during the summer months - his big 5'ver stays in storage down @ Lake Havasu. The one he found was a bunk bed model... and he's discovered that after years and years in first a big class A motorhome, and later the big 5th wheel, he's gotten spoiled by not having to watch his head ;) We've been discussing possible mods along similar lines - removing the top bunk entirely, making the top bunk height adjustable, etc. I'd be interested to hear what others might have come up with.
memilanuk 05/04/22 01:35am Travel Trailers
RE: Converting PC laptop to Android tablet

As someone who went sort of the opposite direction for a while (running Linux on a Chromebook for a daily driver, well before it was officially supported), I can certainly appreciate this sort of project for the geeky personal gratification factor... I still think you'd be way, way ahead in terms of time if you just go get them a new Android tablet or possibly a Chromebook. I'm guessing if you managed to make it as far as installing and booting a foreign OS on PC hardware, you've got a reasonable familiarity with making things work. Kudos for you. I just question whether it's worth the effort.
memilanuk 04/20/22 10:06am Technology Corner
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

For me, it was a matter of having the rubber flange on the wrong side of the bracket (strut). I thought I could have it on the top side, and still be able to draw it down tight. When I did, it pulled the whole thing right through the hole. Discarded that well nut, grabbed a new one, put it so that the flange was directly on top of the roof, with the strut channel on top of that, added washers, inserted the bolt, and snugged it down. Adding to the level of 'fun' was that I'd already put a bunch of Dicor around the flange / under the strut, so it was pretty messy the second time around. Took some doin' to get everything cleaned up. That said, there's a point where the bolt head draws down flush, and then where it begins to snug up... which is usually the sign to *STOP TIGHTENING*. There really isn't a hard 'stop' feeling like with a metal-on-metal fastener... so I guess if you just kept turning and turning waiting for it to get tight and stop, yeah, you'd pull the threaded insert right out.
memilanuk 04/16/22 10:01pm Truck Campers
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

I tried well nuts for my solar panel mount (using Z mounts). They pulled right out. Well, 17 years later it's obviously too late to argue about how exactly you did the install... but in my limited experience (putting several of them in last fall/winter), on the first attempt (or two) they *did* pull 'right out'. Turned out it was a mistake on *my* part, and when I went back and did it correctly, they held very solidly. The metal version aka 'riv-nuts' should work at least as well, with the slight difference of not being inherently water-tight. Since most people are going to cover everything in sight with some kind of sealant, it's debatable whether that's worth it or whether it's better to go with some thing that is mechanically stronger like you did. Either way works.
memilanuk 04/15/22 02:33pm Truck Campers
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

With the thin luan on the top of my RV it seems picking the best screw can be challenging. Look up 'well nuts'. There is a rubber sleeve with a flange on it, and a metal (brass) insert. You drill a hole big enough for the sleeve to slip into, so it stops on the flange. Then when you screw the bolt in, the threaded insert pulls it towards the head, mushrooming the rubber body and sandwiching the thin wall material (luan, in your case) between the flange and the mushroom. Think of it like a rubber rivet. Other uses include attaching glass windshields to motorcycles, or providing attachment points on the sides of water craft. They provide a fairly water-resistant connection to begin with, and when utilized underneath a mounting bracket or rail and then covered with additional sealant like Dicor or Sikaflex you shouldn't have any issues with UV degradation either. I'd double check with the manufacturer (Arctic Fox) about the actual construction of the roof. Adventurer has their 'TCC' i.e. 'true composite core/construction' equivalent, but even that has aluminum frame members, and weirdly enough, three additional random wood cross members. That's in addition to the cheap/light white pine stuff they put around the roof openings for screw holding. I'd be shocked if AF doesn't have *some* kind of structural cross members in the roof.
memilanuk 04/12/22 11:39am Truck Campers
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

^ this Another option for roof rails that I used was low-profile aluminum strut 'rail' or channel - also known as 'UniStrut'. Typically used for mounting electrical conduit or boxes, it's available slotted, unslotted, in galvanized or zinc-coated steel, etc. I went with the low-pro (13/16" height) aluminum to save weight - but I had to special order them from McMaster-Carr. Even paying exorbitant shipping for four 10 ft sticks, it was less than half what any of the electrical supply houses around town were quoting to order it in for me. The actual connectors (cone nuts, etc.) are commodity items easily sourced at most hardware stores. I contacted the RV manufacturer (Adventurer) and got a print showing the layout of the roof structure. I confirmed using a stud finder, and was able to sink screws into almost all the studs - both the aluminum tube framing, and the few wood members. There were a few that I couldn't because of location - I used well-nuts for those. Pretty sure it's better attached than most setups using z-clips.
memilanuk 04/11/22 08:32pm Truck Campers
RE: Opinions on lightweight portable inverter/generators

Friend of mine bought a Harbor Freight generator with replacement warranty. never had a problem but every couple of years he takes it back and say's it dies after running a couple of hours. They give him a new one. repeat process! I don't think I'd be claiming someone like that as a 'friend'. Just sayin'...
memilanuk 11/04/21 03:35pm Tech Issues
RE: "Solar" Sub-Forum

Here's a link to the search that joshuajim suggested: Just out of curiosity... is there a way to get that search to return something other than the 'print' version of the site pages?
memilanuk 10/27/21 03:10pm Tech Issues
RE: "Solar" Sub-Forum

Solar related posts should be placed in Tech Issues. Avoid doing so in Technology Corner which will get moved to this forum. Thanks. Maybe having two sub-forums with such similar names is part of the problem? I don't necessarily have a better naming schema off the top of my head, but I can see how it would be confusing for some.
memilanuk 10/27/21 08:11am Tech Issues
RE: 4x4 Class C ?

I keep hoping they'll decide to start selling these in the USA... height=700 width=1024
memilanuk 10/22/21 09:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Generator start leads

Everything is fused as 12V or 110V as far as I can tell. I have a fuse box with easily accessible fuses or breakers in the case of 110V.. I'm betting your generator start leads ain't coming from the house AC/DC distribution panel...
memilanuk 10/16/21 10:24pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

The original question - in my mind, as the OP - was for people who actually have (or have had) onboard generators, about how they found them wired from the factory/dealer. Were they fused, or not? The discussion was never intended to be about what the starting current is or isn't. As I build out the new system, there seems to be strong recommendations to use appropriately sized fuses to protect various segments - but as found, the cables are landed directly on the battery terminals, completely inside any form of overcurrent protection. Looking at the OEM install manual for the Onan 2500 LP generator(s)... it recommends #2 AWG for installs up to 45 ft (total round trip length). It recommends *against* using the frame for the negative return if possible, and while it calls out specific torque values for the connections, it doesn't show or recommend anything specific as far as OCPD. Also, it mentions having a battery with a minimum of 360 CCA, on up to 1000 CCA.
memilanuk 10/16/21 08:02pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

Depends on how long the duration is. Think of it like a slow-blow fuse ;)
memilanuk 10/15/21 10:59pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

The LFP batteries I'm building have a JBD 150A BMS that is rated at 160A for 10 seconds, or 890A instantaneous (each). Both of them in parallel shouldn't have a problem starting the generator. One by itself... it'll be interesting to see.
memilanuk 10/15/21 04:35pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

Is the shadow on the screen hiding a decimal ? On the 1000A DC scale there is no decimal point.
memilanuk 10/15/21 04:13pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

Well, until someone else actually puts a meter on the start leads a similar Onan 2500 LP generator... height=640 width=480 height=640 width=480 Got everything back together, started the generator with the meter clamped on one of the start leads. Let it run about 15-20 minutes, then shut it down. Pulled it out, took the first pick, cleared the MAX hold, set it again, and about 15 minutes later, started it again.
memilanuk 10/15/21 11:51am Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

My mistake... it's a 36, not a 33. And yes, it's a clamp-on ammeter and yes, it does DC current as well as AC.
memilanuk 10/13/21 08:57pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

Well... the meter does have a few years on it - like 25 or so. It's a Fluke 33 from 'back in the day' when I used to do motor control work in a steel mill and needed something to check start & run currents on large (several hundred horse) AC and DC motors. At the time, the price was pretty salty, but oh so worth it ;) It did have a fresh battery, but it hasn't seen the inside of a calibration shop for a couple decades... I've got some stuff apart right now, but I'll check the start current again once it's all back together.
memilanuk 10/13/21 12:33pm Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

I put my generator B+ back to the B+ terminal with no fuse when I switched to Battleborn batteries When I installed my inverter and BMV-712, I put the generator B- cable on the load side of the shunt. I show the shunt wiring in this video or this one I'm trying to do something roughly along the lines of your build, same inverter charger, bigger batteries, and hopefully less kitchen reno ;) I'd watched all of those videos a few times... now that you pointed it out, I went back and watched them again. It's not really ever mentioned as such, but I think towards the end of the Battleborn video I can see some 'extra' cables that look like the generator start leads coming off the battery terminals.
memilanuk 10/12/21 08:50am Truck Campers
RE: Generator start leads

I'm aware of the difference between start and run current. My point was that in this case start current is pretty much all there is, which kind of skews the traditional approach to circuit protection.
memilanuk 10/12/21 06:21am Truck Campers
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