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RE: Towing with a dually or single?need help please

Some of you folks are living in states that are running behind on “soaking” the taxpayer (vehicle license) fees. We have the privilege of paying an “additional” fee of $90.00/year .....heavy vehicle fee for each vehicle (truck, 5th wheel, class c). For us, that adds $270.00 to our already high vehicle license plate fees. :M memtb
memtb 01/07/21 06:58am Towing
RE: Avoiding Low clearance routes

Unless we know the backroads in question, we stay on truck routes. We use the tried and proven paper map system....Truckers Atlas! No incorrect downloads, cell phone failures, ect. at the most inopportune times! memtb
memtb 01/05/21 10:03pm Beginning RVing
RE: Montana Fifth Wheel

According to some of you familiar with them....it says little for the other seven! Yep, they’re not a house.....We do use a bit more propane than I’d like when the temperatures get well below zero. Have to run the genny more than we like to keep the batteries charged....that forced air does pull on the batteries! memtb
memtb 01/05/21 09:52pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Lifting my class C

memtb, Thanks for the pictures. ;). You bet! memtb
memtb 01/05/21 09:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

normadist, from your photo....it appears that the rollers could be removed and replaced with roller, using the same roller base/frame. I’ll get a photo or two of mine, tonite ! I was incorrect on the class c roller length ,it’s been awhile since I was under there. The roller is only 24”, with roller diameter approximately 4 1/2”. It is secured to the receiver outer frame same as your rollers. If you wanted longer, the roller mounting brackets could likely be mounted to the rv frame. If done this way, it would make the roller approximately 18” longer, giving greater coverage. If mounted to the RV frame, the roller would still run beneath the receiver hitch frame, helping prevent it from connecting pavement or getting hung up on something. The photo was taken from beneath the rv, looking toward the back. It’s rather tight under there, I hope that the photos will offer some help! memtb https://i.imgur.com/WHXbrjOl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/sD7KhwFl.jpg Our 5th wheel roller runs from frame rail to frame rail. The roller is 70” in length, giving nearly side to side coverage.
memtb 01/02/21 07:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

membt, Do you mean 3 feet--or three inches? 3’ by memory....I’ll measure tomorrow. The one on our 5th wheel is about 5 feet long. The extra length provides better protection...IMO, where as a narrow dolly wheel can hit a hole or low spot and offer no benefit! I can also supply a photo, if wanted! memtb
memtb 01/02/21 07:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

nomadist, if I may suggest. Instead of dolly wheels, go with a frame to frame roller. It won’t miss the high spots on irregular grade surfaces. A dolly wheel may be at a low point on the grade, or fall into a hole.....doing you no good! Our 5th wheel has a full side to side roller, our class c roller is only about 3 ft wide, but still offers an advantage over dolly wheels. You have a lot of rear overhang.....get the most that you can get to provide as much protection as possible! Maybe even several types of protection.....lift, roller, air bags, ect! memtb
memtb 01/01/21 08:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Towing with a dually or single?need help please

rhagofo, I was referring to the actual axle load capacity......not tires/wheels, springs, ect. Merely, the load capacity of the axle! Beefing the accompanying components, increases the truck load capacity! Without going into lengthy internet research, several years ago the Ram 3500 HD axle rating ( not truck load rating) was the same SRW or DRW. The DRW was axle slightly longer to accommodate the DRW’s. The rear brake discs and caliper assembly were also slightly larger = more braking surface area, to accommodate the extra tire contact patch area afforded by having dual rear wheels. That same contact patch area, greatly works against you on very slick surfaces .....unless you have a lot of load on the back of the truck. For my personal uses....I need a truck that will perform (unloaded) on slick surfaces. We also go places where the fenders would quickly be removed from a DRW. We all have different needs/applications for our trucks. Which brings me back to the weakest link on the SRW.....wheel/tire load capacity! memtb
memtb 12/21/20 06:44pm Towing
RE: Towing with a dually or single?need help please

As this topic was “closed” in a different part of the forum, but continued here.....below is my post cut and pasted here! With a 1 ton HD SRW, the limiting factor is primarily the tires and rims. With a HD SRW 3500, the suspension, and axles are plenty sufficient for your potential load. I haven’t researched in recent years, but the older 3500 Rams had the same rear axle load rating, whether SRW or DRW. The dual tires are what increased the truck load capacity. With the dually you will gain some stability and “slightly” more rear brake surface area.! If your 5th wheel is properly balanced, and your tires/rims are sufficient for the load, you should be fine. Assuming the rims/tires are adequate, it comes down to your preference. If the truck will be primarily for paved road use, and not an everyday driver, and minimal snow/ice....the DRW would be great. If you will be doing substantial snow/ice travel, or off road use, and/or a daily driver.....it’s hard to beat a SRW. We tow substantially more than 16K with a SRW, with some wheel/tire upgrades. But, we don’t full time, the truck is used in snow/ice, and off road.....for our needs, the SRW is much more practical! memtb
memtb 12/21/20 09:50am Towing
RE: Which pick up to buy for towing big fifth wheel?

With a 1 ton HD SRW, the limiting factor is primarily the tires and rims. With a HD SRW 3500, the suspension, and axles are plenty sufficient for your potential load. I haven’t researched in recent years, but the older 3500 Rams had the same rear axle load rating, whether SRW or DRW. The dual tires are what increased the truck load capacity. With the dually you will gain some stability and “slightly” more rear brake surface area.! If your 5th wheel is properly balanced, and your tires/rims are sufficient for the load, you should be fine. Assuming the rims/tires are adequate, it comes down to your preference. If the truck will be primarily for paved road use, and not an everyday driver, and minimal snow/ice....the DRW would be great. If you will be doing substantial snow/ice travel, or off road use, and/or a daily driver.....it’s hard to beat a SRW. We tow substantially more than 16K with a SRW, with some wheel/tire upgrades. But, we don’t full time, the truck is used in snow/ice, and off road.....for our needs, the SRW is much more practical! memtb
memtb 12/20/20 09:31pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: RVing in the winter

TwistedGray, you may consider having a second CO detector.....just in case the first one fails . We do similar as you’re planning, and go5 the second detector as a “fail-safe”! memtb
memtb 12/06/20 04:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RVing in the winter

To fully enjoy winter camping, a couple of things need to be addressed. Obviously, a factory manufactured winter ready rv or a modified rv is a necessity. Much can be done to “winter prep” an rv, though the expenses are dependent upon rv design. If we’re going to using our class c in single digit or below zero F temps.....we put an insulated barrier between the living area and the cab area. More comfortable and much less heater run time! The lower that you can maintain (within reason) the rv interior, you can reduce propane and battery consumption for forced - air heater use. If you have enclosed tanks/valves/water lines, you must run the forced- air to provide heat to the onboard utility systems. If you do not have ducted heat to all water systems....Your “wintering” capabilities are severely limited. Another item to consider pertaining to winter camping/rving is to winterize yourself. Obviously, rv’ing/camping in cool/cold weather is a choice. If you didn’t want to cool weather camp....you’ be wintering in Key West! ;) If you’re rv’ing in a cold area and wish to partake in activities outside of the rv, acclimating to cool weather makes the experience much more pleasurable. For us rv’ing or merely leaving our home involves a cold environment, we chose to acclimate. Our home main floor temps are maintained @ 65 F.....with our upstairs bedroom temps running in the upper 50’sF. Being somewhat acclimated to cool temps, seems to make outdoor activities more pleasurable. pnichols has rv preparation figured-out pretty well! Well.....everything except the hot environment thing! :B memtb
memtb 12/05/20 12:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Broken Leaf Springs

Cheap Chinese Springs........ The Chinese make very high quality steels. I think this is another of many examples where the American companies order the cheapest materials and then we think cheap materials are all the Chinese can make. It does not matter what they CAN make, it only matters when they export cheap junk. If they had a bit of pride in their goods, they would refuse orders for inferior, dangerous goods. Japan produced junk years ago and they cleaned up their act. When US started to trade with Japan, we gave them junk. That is what they made to match are goods. When The learned we wanted better they made as good or better than we did. Compare cars made in '70s US/Japan. US makes varies qualities of goods for markets. To assume China does not sell what the customer demands is racism. You started with a questionable comment only to far exceed reality with your last comment, to which I respond .....”Horse Hockey”! memtb
memtb 11/29/20 07:47am General RVing Issues
RE: Broken Leaf Springs

How far can you travel on a broken leaf spring? In 2011, I first noticed my trailer leaning to one side in Bosque del Apache, New Mexico. (I thought the campsite was just a bit off level.) I drove 850 miles to home with two camps along the way. Only when I got home did I notice a broken spring. (Was I just stupid? Yes, but then I was pretty new to RVing.) I upgraded all springs from 6000 lbs/axle to 7000 lbs/axle (actual axle weight is just under 5000 lbs) and have had no more spring problems. I don't know what bumps feel like in the trailer, but at least it has shocks. It depends upon which spring is broken. If it is the main/bottom spring with the eyes that connect to the shackle.......it will be OK until the first good brake application. Then that end of the axle will move rearward, probably allowing the tire to contact things you would rather it not! ;) memtb
memtb 11/27/20 03:18pm General RVing Issues
RE: Broken Leaf Springs

My gut says that spring failure is most likely caused by the manufacturer UNDER SIZING the spring pack to begin with. If you are concerned, adding one additional leaf is cheap insurance. I would totally agree with your statement. However, in our case we’re running 3 - 7K Dexter axles. Not overloaded.....but had seen many miles and a few extremely rough highways and some off-roading! Of course, who’s to say that in 2004 Dexter wasn’t using some cheap imported springs! memtb
memtb 11/27/20 10:05am General RVing Issues
RE: Broken Leaf Springs

I think that stripit may have the answer to broken spring issues......carry a spare! In the last 7 or so years I’ve had to replace 3 broken springs on our present 5 er. :M Our unit was full-timed in for 7+ years and had been towed untold thousands of miles prior to our buying it. I only had the privilege of changing one set out here at home! :( Another was replaced in August in Mesa, Az. in an asphalt parking lot.....very hot is an understatement! :) The most recent, was in a truck stop parking lot, 50 miles south of Lincoln, Ne. on a low temperature record setting March morning. Brrrrr! I had to go to Lincoln for a spring replacement. I bought two spring packs while there.....still carrying the spare spring pack in the back of the truck. Having an available spare , may stop the breakage! memtb
memtb 11/27/20 09:40am General RVing Issues
RE: Washer and dryer suggestions

We have a GE Washer and GE Dryer Space Saver series. They were used for full timing for 7 years. We now use them on a limited basis. They are extremely quite, and virtually vibration free....you have have to turn off the television and listen carefully to see if they are still running. They also have a pretty remarkable load capacity. Also, they are “stackable”, 110/120 volt units! As these are old units, I cannot attest to the quality of those produced today! Hopefully, the quality is remotely close to that of yesteryear! memtb
memtb 11/22/20 08:05am General RVing Issues
RE: Auxiliary tank - full or empty?

Having an empty or partially so....is kinda like not having some tp stocked. You just never know when it may be needed. But, more importantly, a full tank virtually eliminates moisture accumulation! To each his/her own pertaining to a full tank stored for a lengthy time frame......follow the science! ;) memtb
memtb 11/20/20 04:11pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Auxiliary tank - full or empty?

Fill it.....treat it! The few extra pounds of fuel carried will be inconsequential to fuel mileage! If the difference is even measurable, it would be minimal..... a small headwind would affect mileage much more! memtb
memtb 11/19/20 07:07am Tow Vehicles
RE: How cold is too cold?

Too cold, starts around zero, and gets worse from there. It has been -38 degrees F in my driveway. I’m a newbie to Wyoming, @ only 35 years.....the coldest I’ve seen was -47 F. Thankfully, there was zero wind.....but, I had an outside job. And.....I’m darn glad we weren’t rving that night! memtb When is there zero wind in Wyoming? Everyone fell down? :D (worked a lot in Wyoming back in the '70s). Actually there are times, thought rare, we have little to no wind. It very rarely happens in the I-80 corridor. That particular night, I was working about 30 miles east of Kemmerer.....Shute Creek Gas Plant. We live near Worland, Wy......the lowest wind average in the state. In our hot summers, you often pray for a breeze! memtb
memtb 11/11/20 07:12am Class C Motorhomes
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