Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'mikemc53' found 13 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: AC issues

Thanks, much! Does the 5 button just pull out by hand, or is there usually some type of disconnect somewhere?
mikemc53 07/19/19 06:27am Tech Issues
RE: AC issues

Well, it does appear to be the tstat sensor and, yes, it is set up like the older Monacos that you mentioned. Right up front under the TV box and very close to the gigantic heat conducting windshield. I made sure I closed the curtains and it really helped but I will probably put some reflectix behind the curtains. Is there an easy way to move the sensor? The wiring is all hidden and I wouldn't be clear as to where to route things. Maybe a wireless sensor?
mikemc53 07/18/19 12:45pm Tech Issues
AC issues

OK, this just started acting up, today. Have the dual roof air with a DuoTherm Comfort Control thermostat. The front (zone 1) unit is now wanting to run almost continuously even though the outside temperature is only in the upper 70's. The rear unit (zone 2) works fine. It is set at 74 and comes on, runs for a short time and shuts off. The temp in the back of the coach stays nice and even. The front one runs on and on and the coach gets very cold even though we set thermostat all the way up to 80 - I eventually just shut it off. Until this morning all was right with the AC but now I don't know if it is an AC issue, a thermostat issue, or something else. Thoughts? 2004 HR Vacationer 37PCT
mikemc53 07/16/19 09:47am Tech Issues
Tow Dolly ??

I have a 2006 Vue FWD and I know it can be flat towed but, this weekend, that is not an option. I do have a Master Tow tow dolly that should work but I am wondering if anyone has used a tow dolly with a Saturn and what one might need to know. My other car is a 2016 Ford Escape and I have towed it on the dolly without issue but I am wondering, for example, about the steering wheel on the Saturn and does it need to be unlocked? Does the car stay in Park, like the Escape, when towing? Just not sure if there are any real differences between the two, requirement-wise? Thoughts?
mikemc53 05/16/19 05:03am Dinghy Towing
RE: dead house batteries

Well I did the battery boost and got the generator started. It was charging the house batteries properly at 14.1/14.3 V. I ran it for a while and then disconnected the batteries, pulled them out and took them back to my place to put on the charger. Not expecting miracles since they were quite dead but we'll see if I get anywhere with the charge. If not - new batteries. Thanks, gang. BTW, I had forgotten to hit the battery shut-off the last time I was at the coach which likely contributed to the drained batteries.
mikemc53 04/04/19 03:06pm Class A Motorhomes
dead house batteries

Bear with me - this post might run long as I try to give some background. Bought the coach (2004 HR Vacationer with V-10) last summer and the house batteries were fairly new, having been replaced the year prior (2017). They are 2 deep cycle 6V and have worked well in the short time I have owned the coach. Drove from Michigan to Florida in November/December time frame and parked the coach in storage with no shore power. I have started the coach and generator every few weeks and always let them run for a while along with some appliances, particularly the AC. For the first few months everything was fine. About two weeks ago I started the coach and after letting it run for 20 minutes or so I went to start the generator and it reacted as if the batteries were low/dead - started to turn over then nothing. I started the coach back up and tried the generator again, which worked. After the gen started I shut the coach off and ran gen with the AC for a good half hour. I checked the house batteries at the inside console (which I do every time I run the gen) and they were charging at 14.4 V. I will admit that I didn’t check them while the generator was not running. Today I went over to the coach and started the engine right up and let it run. The generator, though, only turned over one time and then nothing – even when I had the coach running. I tried turning on some small DC lights and – nothing. I then checked the voltage of the house batteries at the console and it show 3.5V. I was shocked that they could be that low (basically dead) and I tried to think of what may have been left on in the past two weeks since the only thing I ever really turned on earlier was the AC. Since I always shut it off at the console there should not have been anything drawing excess current. I know there are always small things running in the background but I have left the coach sit for this amount of time in the past and had no issues. I need help with a couple of things: First I want to start the generator so that I can at least try to get the batteries up some – though I’m sure that will take quite a while if it can even happen at all with them so low. What can I do to try and start it, knowing that I am not near shore power at this time? Can I jump the house batteries with a portable jump starter, or maybe jump the generator? Also, obviously, I need to find out what caused the drain of the batteries but I will likely need to get things going (generator) so that I can ring out some things. I guess I could pull the batteries out and take them home (not too far away) to charge and then bring them back. I am open to any suggestions. Thanks, gang.
mikemc53 04/03/19 07:10pm Class A Motorhomes
electric brake booster

I have a 2004 HR Vacationer (Ford V-10) that has an electric brake assist system. The brake booster motor runs constantly with the key in the on position and I was wondering where to look to fix this. My guess is that it would only need to run when the brakes are applied but it seems to run all the time. I bought the vehicle last summer and it has always done this - I have just ignored it because I really didn't know what it was until the other day. When turning the key to "on" before starting I would hear it but, normally, couldn't hear it after start due to the engine noise. Well I wanted to do a 5 Star tune on the coach and leaving the key "on" was really loud without the engine running - also I think this booster is keeping the 5 Star from working because I am not getting vehicle info nor is it connecting (error message 110B8). I would like to fix the booster issue for a couple of reasons, not the least of which is the fact that a constantly running motor is not necessarily a good thing. Thoughts?
mikemc53 03/09/19 06:41am Class A Motorhomes

I know this is a subject that has been kicked around for decades but I am always looking for experienced voices to help out with things. When sealing/caulking the RV I have found that Dicor (self-leveling) works very well on roofs but it does not seem to apply cleanly and/or neatly on any side parts of the RV. How do most folks work the transition - where a seam runs from the roof and then down the side of the unit? It would seem that if you started with dicor on the roof and then just kept sealing the same seam down the side, it would get runny and less appealing to the eye, probably due to the self-leveling qualities. I bought my unit used and the previous owner had done a decent job sealing all the seams, though it doesn't appear to have been Dicor or any self-leveling compound. The roof seams are well-done, though drying out now, and the same sealant/caulk follows the seam down the side onto the body of the coach. It's a tan colored sealant and matches the body quite well but I am not sure what type it is and I can't get hold of the person to find out what they used. What do most here use and is there a decent caulk that can be used on roofs and bodies of the coach? Thanks gang.
mikemc53 12/16/18 02:33am Class A Motorhomes
Battery Storage

I know this has been asked a lot but I am going to be storing my 2004 HR Vacationer for the first time since I purchased it this summer. Tanks and such I am fairly comfortable with but what about batteries? Should the battery disconnects be turned to "off"? I will be able to get to it every couple of weeks to run it and keep the chassis batteries going but not sure of what is best for the house batteries? It will be in central Florida so weather will be less an issue than had I stayed home in Michigan. Thoughts?
mikemc53 12/05/18 05:45am Class A Motorhomes
Master Tow?

I tried contacting Master Tow with this question but no luck with an answer so maybe someone here has dealt with it. I have the 80THD which has the swiveling carrying pan. Traveled about 900 miles with it and all worked well. When I unloaded at a campground the swivel pan had not completely straightened out but I didn't notice until after I had unloaded the car. It is just about 5-7 degrees off center but it is noticeable. I tried straightening it by hand but that was a no-go (too stiff) so I am wondering if it will present a problem when I go to use it again in the next week and a half or so. Anyone dealt with this before? It looks like it shouldn't be an issue loading and I would assume will straighten out as the dolly follows the coach but never having done this before I am curious. Thanks in advance gang.
mikemc53 11/23/18 06:50am Dinghy Towing
RE: Through Memphis

I would prefer to fuel somewhere other than Memphis but my problem is accessibility. When I pulled a trailer with my diesel truck it was easy. Any truck stop was easily accessed. Now I have a gasser with toad and many stations are just not accessible for this set-up. If I know, going in, that there are some decent stations that will allow me to skip Memphis gas, I will take that any day.
mikemc53 11/20/18 09:13am Roads and Routes
Through Memphis

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 29788246
mikemc53 11/20/18 06:52am Class A Motorhomes
Through Memphis

I will be traveling from Springfield, MO to just past Memphis in a few weeks and was wondering about a couple of routes. Having never gone through this area I am unfamiliar with best routes to take. I have planned a fuel stop in West Memphis, AK and then will have a couple of options to get back on the road. One is to take I-55 right to my destination and the other is to take I-40 to I-69 to I-55. They are similar in distance but they cross the Mississippi a few miles apart. Not sure if one is better than the other as far as overall travel goes. Also any suggestions on the overall trip are gladly accepted. We will be traveling sometime the first week of December, leaving Springfield, MO and eventually ending up near Gainesville, FL (Williston, actually). I definitely want to avoid I-75 near Atlanta so my plan, at this time, is to go through Southaven, MS on toward Montgomery, AL and across I-10 after that. I drive a 37 ft gasser with a toad so my options for fuel are somewhat limited - affecting my route choices. Thoughts? BTW, thanks for all the help that everyone here provides. I ask a lot of questions and I do appreciate the answers.
mikemc53 11/20/18 06:52am Roads and Routes
Sort by:    Search within results:

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS