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 > Your search for posts made by 'msturtz' found 46 matches.

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RE: Trickle charger for batteries

Most motorhomes have a combined inverter converter. Usually they are made by Magnum Energy or Xantrex. They charge the battery when connected to shore power. Most of them are configurable first battery type (flooded, AGM, gel) as well as any equalization requirements. If the inverter/converter charger fails for some reason it is possible that the voltage is too high causing the batteries to boil. I would check the open circuit voltage when on shore power with everything but the charger off. Then test again with the batteries connected. If you have a higher voltage than 13.8 with the batteries fully charged there’s a problem with the inverter/converter unit. In the unlikely event you have a separate converter the same test applies however you will only need to replace the converter.
msturtz 08/14/19 10:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel economy and additives

So now i am trying to chase down a owners manual for a 2008 Triton V10. All Google does is route me to their highest paying advertisers or send me to some site that wants me to download their softwre on my PC....year. right...like i will do that. I do need a PDF of a 2008 Triton engine if some some can send me a link without installing porn or some other cookie on my PC...LOL! try duckduckgo.com they don't do that.
msturtz 06/12/19 05:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel economy and additives

In my experience, the use of 10% ethanol fuel reduces my MPG by about 10%. I know the "experts" say it should only be reduced 2-3%, but in 4 different vehicles, INCLUDING my 8.1L W-22 Motorhome, the measured reduction in MPG over time hovers right around 10%. Pretty much all we have here in the NorthEast and I believe most of the East Coast, is 10% ethanol blends. It's **** near impossible to find pure gas. But when I'm on the road and DO find it, I use it! So, IF you can find REAL gas for under a 10% price premium, I'd say go for it! ~Rick This is because that engine isn’t optimized for ethanol. Ethanol is challenging because the percentage isn’t consistent. The ECU must be able to dynamically determine the ethanol percentage on the fly and adjust the timing and amount of fuel injected. If isn’t optimized then the fuel economy suffers.
msturtz 06/12/19 12:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel economy and additives

Your engine has a sophisticated computer management system. If you use the MINIMUM fuel octane as recommended by the owner's manual, which is probably 87 octane, the computer will make the necessary adjustments to give you the best performance/mileage. Using a higher octane fuel will not improve the mileage on an engine that has the computer calibrated for 87 octane. This is absolutely correct, what is worse is if the ECU (Engine computer) is calibrated for a certain minimum octane and a higher octane fuel is used then fuel economy can actually suffer i.e. get worse. Octane is resistance to pre-ignition or knock. This occurs when the air-fuel mixture ignites before the spark plug is fired by the ECU. Gasoline engines are homogeneous ignition combustion engines where the ignition is controlled by the ECU sending a spark to the spark plug vs. stratified charge compression ignition in diesel engines that rely on injecting fuel at precisely the time the ECU wants ignition to occur. It should be noted that with gasoline engines that do rely on a higher octane fuel such as boosted engines e.g. Ford EcoBoost or higher performance engines such as the GM 6.2L V8 can and will use 92 octane fuel and will have better fuel economy on higher octane fuel. The reason for this is the higher compression ratios and or high boost pressure. In these engines, the ECU will back off the timing and or actually inject more fuel if engine pre-ignition (knock) is detected. This would necessarily cause poorer fuel economy than using the recommended octane fuel.
msturtz 06/12/19 10:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel economy and additives

The easiest way to improve fuel economy is slow down. A class A motor home is a large rectangular box that isn’t very aerodynamic.
msturtz 06/12/19 09:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Selling an RV with a lien

This is easily done with a purchase and sale agreement coupled with a notarized release of interest. You and the buyer would come to an agreed amount and then go to your bank. At your bank, you and the buyer would sign a legally binding purchase and sale agreement (you can find one online) and notarize the release of interest form. Your bank would either accept the cash or wire transfer for the loan amount and any amount over the loan balance. The buyer would then process the wire transfer from their bank. If the buyer is using a check from their bank then the 10-day rule would apply. The check can be "sent for collection" which means that your bank would send the check via the ACH system to the payer bank for funds transfer. As soon as the funds clear the buyer can take delivery. Technically, they can take the purchase and sale agreement combined with the release of interest form to the Department of Licensing to gain title to the RV. I am not an attorney. This is just like selling any other titled property such as car or boat.
msturtz 06/05/19 01:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery Question

If you have different voltages in the the chassis and house battery banks then the systems are not connected for some reason. Many older coaches did not have the BIRD (bidirectional relay with delay) or similar system. The way coaches without such a system is a very simple ignition relay that connects the battery banks together when the engine is running. Unfortunately if the coach is parked for too long the coach battery can go dead or drop low enough that the coach won’t start. Typically they do have an emergency start button on the dash but that doesn’t solve the underlying problem. As another poster mentioned they do sell products that charge the coach battery bank from the house converter if power is available. You can also retrofit modern version of a bird. Bottom line if the voltage is different then you either have a defective BIRD or one was never installed from the factory.
msturtz 06/01/19 11:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 34/35' diesel pusher question. Newbie

36' DP 275 HP Cummins and 6 speed Allison with a Freightliner chassis. No stability issues towing. A little underpowered but not an issue. LP generator with its own tank and will run everything in the MH. Diesel generator would be easier but LP was not a deal breaker and it is quieter than any of the gas or diesel generators in camp. Most DP that size will have a 5,000 lb. hitch so plan on reinforcing it. I choose to stay at the 36' length so I could stay under the 65' total length with trailer or toad. Lots of good rigs available in your price range. Our 33.3 34.5' has a 10K hitch but as a practical matter, we are restricted due to GCWR to less than that.
msturtz 05/23/19 04:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 34/35' diesel pusher question. Newbie

We have a 33.3 DP. It’s actually 34.5’ long. It is on a Freightliner SC-R straight rail 28,000 chassis. It has a 300HP 660 lb ft of torque. It was de-rated to 26,000 pounds GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) and 30,000 pounds GCWR (Gross combined weight rating) due to the Allison MH2100 transmission. I would never purchase a DP with an LP generator. They use way too much fuel for what you get plus the QD series Onan generators use inverter technology to dramatically reduce the noise and fuel consumption. The LP generators run at 3600 rpm and the QD versions run at 1800 rpm or lower. Lower rpm means less noise and lower fuel use.
msturtz 05/22/19 08:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: House Power Problem

All the stuff that you listed as working are 120v appliances. This leads me to believe it is in the 12 V side. Start at the battery and check the voltage. Usually there will be a large fuse before the inverter and the rest of the house wiring. If there’s power past that then look for the battery disconnect relay. Keep checking until you find where the power is no longer passing. Another quick thing you can do is press the emergency start switch up in the dashboard. Make sure everything is off except a few lights. Depending on where that relay is wired may tell you where the problem is.
msturtz 05/16/19 08:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: House Power Problem

While I not directly familiar with your specific coach I do have some suggestions. Some coaches have a device that bridges (connects) the house and chassis battery banks if charge voltage is present on either side. Some coaches have different systems that may only connect on side or the other. One symptom of a failure is the house battery bank discharging with the engine running. To test this theory start the engine and let it run for at least 5 minutes. Check the battery voltage at the battery on both side. There should be less than 0.2 VDC difference between the two banks.
msturtz 05/15/19 10:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Be wary of National General Insurance

doxiemom11 and ItsyRV, one can only hope your insurance treats you as you would treat others. The ramifications of the OPer's claim sound very excessive to me. Now that they've screwed him over, it will take years for him to get out of the high risk category they put him in making it extremely hard to find another company to cover his vehicles. I understand greed rules today but that doesn't make it right. Our failed for profit system of metering out health care is another example of insurers run wild. Um, I would not want the alternative of dying waiting for care like happened to my father in law. He died of a very treatable illness that in the US would have been routine however under the socialized system of his country he didn't make the cut for the care rationing. He never got the surgery in time and died waiting. Of course, we could have paid the bribes to move him up on the list but there were no guarantees they would actually honor that either. Sorry, granting all power to the all-powerful state and government bureaucrats to decide who does and does not get care is not a solution. Insurance is about transferring risk nothing more nothing less. The solution to an insurance company treating me poorly is more competition and more consumer choice along with greater transparency. If an insurance company routinely treats its customers poorly they will lose business and eventually go out of business. That is if the government doesn't prop them up by erecting major barriers to entry of new competition (for those who are interested the term is "rent seeking" when a business asks the government to impede the entry of competitors by increasing regulation or taxes or by asking for special treatment). We need more competition in the insurance business and ultimately that will make for more happier customers.
msturtz 05/03/19 05:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Be wary of National General Insurance

You may wish to consider investing in a dash cam. We did because a vehicle in front of us lost a part of their roof rack and it hit our motorhome at toad. We had to pay the entire deductible because the driver insisted that nothing came off of their car. It is sad that we have to have a video camera running all the time but it has saved my bacon already! I now have dash cams in all of my vehicles. BTW it is unfortunately sometimes better to actually hit a vehicle that violates the law such as by veering into your lane rather than avoid them which is the instinctive thing to do. It sounds idiocy but you get no credit for avoiding a more severe accident if you actually do get into an accident. Commercial truck drivers know this and will almost always hit an offending vehicle just to have it documented to protect their license.
msturtz 05/02/19 01:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Surge Protector

I have used Progressive Dynamics and Surge Guard. I have had great luck with both. I only recommend the EMS versions which have the active monitoring and will disconnect at any time when detecting most power problems: low voltage, high voltage, open ground, open or floating neutral and so on. The basic surge only versions only protect against power surges.
msturtz 04/13/19 10:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Frame issue

It is a common problem to overload a Motorhome by pulling a too heavy a trailer. The tow rating is the lesser of the GCWR - actual gross weight of the motorhome or the hitch rating whatever is less. For example if you have a hitch rated at 10k, a GCWR of 30k an actual coach weight of 26k you can only tow a trailer of 4K assuming you reduce the coach weight by 400# to account for the tongue weight. The point is that you cannot exceed any ratings. I have seen people towing double stacker trailers behind motorhomes all the time. However it can cause the frame to break if subjected to an abnormal stress such as a bump or pothole.
msturtz 03/31/19 12:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Handling characteristics of MH.s

. . . the Class A has a 208” wheelbase and a 55 degree wheel cut the Class A is much more maneuverable. Add to the fact that the class A has a short 3” front overhang and a short 3’ rear overhang. . . Something doesn't compute. A 413" long motorhome on a 208" wheelbase has to have 205" (17+ feet) of overhang somewhere. If it has 3" on the front and 36" on the rear, where'd the other 166" (13+ feet) go? Maybe I'm just reading things wrong. Wouldn't be the first time. :) It's a bit more complicated than that. Our DP has about a 48" front overhang when measured to the centerline of the axle but the salesperson measured it from the front of the tire. So, 208" + 48" + 2x 36" (22.5" wheels are actually larger than 3') is about 328" back. This leaves about 86" or 7' of rear overhang compared to the over 12' of rear overhang on our Class C. It depends on where you measure from and to however in every case a DP is going to have a relatively shorter rear overhang as a percentage for a given length than a Class C. We had a Class C rig with an OEM listed length of 31' and an actual length of 33.5' and a 45 degree wheel cut compared with our Class A DP which has only a 208" wheelbase and a 55 degree wheel cut a much larger (compared to the C) front overhang and a much smaller rear overhang again compared to the C.
msturtz 03/12/19 03:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Handling characteristics of MH.s

We have had a class C & and now a short class A DP. Our 31’ 218” class C was actually about 33.5’ our 33’ Class A is actually 34.5’. However, because our Class C had a 218” wheelbase and a 45-degree wheel cut and the Class A has a 208” wheelbase and a 55-degree wheel cut the Class A is much more maneuverable. I'm genuinely confused here: how does your longer class A have a shorter wheelbase, a shorter front overhang, and a shorter rear overhang than the class C? Where are they hiding the extra length? :h I know it sounds a bit strange but let me try to explain it this way. Most OEMs don't count the "chassis" part of cutaway chassis cabs such as the E450 in the listed model length. Our Class C rig was listed as a 31' rig but was actually 33.5' (402") bumper to bumper. Our Class C had essentially a 0" front overhang due to being on the E450 chassis. So, this means all of the unit's length is aft of the front bumper. With a 218" wheelbase and 16" tires you are 402" - 218" you have 184" - 32" (two tires) or 12.66' left of rig aft of the rear tires. Note the pivot point is at the centerline of the axle not the rear of the back tire so tail swing is a big issue. Now for our DP here is how the numbers work. Coach is listed as a 33.3' unit but is actually 34.5' or 414". On our DP the front axle is set back about 48" (4') from the front of the rig, add the 208" wheelbase to the 48" front overhang plus the large 22.5 tires at another 36" each for a total of 72 which leaves a rear overhang of 86" or 7.16'. All of this said the Class C units essentially have no front overhang so all of that length is pushed to the aft. Even if you subtract out the tire width from the above calculations in both cases you still end up with a relatively much longer rear overhang in Class C rig. Another common misunderstanding about Class C vs Class A rigs is the width. Almost all standard Class C rigs are 102" wide or 8.6' at the house portion which is the exact same measurement for a Class A rig. The difference in perception has to do with the cab. The cabin a standard E450 is much narrower than the house causing the perception that the rig is narrower when in reality it isn't.
msturtz 03/12/19 03:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water leak from fresh water tank

It’s probably the low point drain for the tank. There should be a valve somewhere between the tank and that pipe that may be partly open or leaking. You should not have to remove any panels to see the valve although you likely will need to look hard.
msturtz 03/12/19 02:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Handling characteristics of MH.s

We have had a class C & and now a short class A DP. Our 31’ 218” class C was actually about 33.5’ our 33’ Class A is actually 34.5’. However because the Class C had a 218” wheelbase and a 45 degree wheel cut and the Class A has a 208” wheelbase and a 55 degree wheel cut the Class A is much more maneuverable. Add to the fact that the class A has a short 3” front overhang and a short 3’ rear overhang vs. the class C with a massive rear overhang of about 11’. The Class C’s poor handling, road manners, harsh ride, squerilly steering, very loud noise and heat from the engine right next to us added to the poor experience. A lot was done to the Class C to correct the deficiencies, airbags, trackbars, steering stabilizers, Hush mat in the entire front cabin including doghouse and so on, ultimately the problems weren’t solvable. The limited water, battery and weight carrying capacity combined with the other things made it impossible to meet our needs. Our Class A DP was only marginally more expensive than the Class C but vastly quieter and more usable in every way.
msturtz 03/12/19 02:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Changing heat pump to heat strip

THe only way I'd even consider switching a heat pump for heat to heat strips. For one thing... A/C's on RV's tend to be roof mount. I want A/C's on the roof as that is the hottest part of the RV.. but for heat I want it down near the floor. Heat pumps DO have advantages that make 'em worth it. but if I'm going to use resistive heat (Electric heat strips) I want 'em near the floor where my space heaters sit... NOTE: most RV's are not wired to support space heaters. I added heavy duty wiring to mine just for that 12ga wire feeding 15/20 amp outltes wire bent around a tightened screw.. NOT the uni-box **** the factory put in. Absolutely correct! RV wiring is substandard at best. Small wire size, uni-box outlets, undersized main panels, and so on. Not fun.
msturtz 02/01/19 09:47am Class A Motorhomes
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