| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: fifth wheel backing trouble
I'd hate to have to switch to a slider hitch just to make backing easier in that one spot.
"that one spot" just happens to be the spot you use every time you take your trailer out. I have a slider absolutely because of my parking situation at home. For me it's only partially due to tight turning angle. It also helps with keeping the underside of the 5th off my rear bed corners.
|
mtofell1
|
05/31/20 07:47pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Rig for two couples?
Maybe we could get some more jokes about two couples struggling to get along in the same RV.... I don't think everyone quite gets the point yet. OP asked a legitimate question and 95% of the responses are just the same (lame) joke being churned over and over and over and over again. Come on people.... get some good material or give it a rest..... or, even better, help OP with the question he asked.
|
mtofell1
|
05/22/20 08:36pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Rig for two couples?
I'd go for something with a large rear kids area where you could just take out the bunks or couch and put another bed in. I have such a beast although it's likely too small but is a good example. The extra 1/2 bath up in the main bedroom would be particularly helpful in their situation.
https://lakeshore-rv.com/hideout/308bhds
The back area just has a cushion bed/couch on the floor which could easily be taken out and a more traditional bed put in its place - the top bunk above the couch just swings up out of the way. I've often joked with my wife that when the kids are grown I'm going to take the bed out and put a recliner in their room and make it my man cave on wheels.
|
mtofell1
|
05/21/20 11:54am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Airbags?
Love the Firestone 5000s - I've had them on 2 trucks and never felt a need to control them from inside. If they were a primary suspension system I could see it but just being a supplement I've never felt the need to change on the fly.... or really ever for that matter (other than filling them each time I hookup which takes about 2 minutes). I just figure what's about right with some trial and error with each trailer or load and I'm set. I usually run them around 40 with my 11,000# 5th wheel. I don't totally need them but it just helps lessen bouncing over uneven roads.
|
mtofell1
|
05/19/20 12:00am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Awning tie downs
I anchor mine down at each end but agree with some others that it's not just a set it and forget it. When it gets too windy I close it up.
fwiw, I also agree that I'd love to have my old manual awning back. Waaaaay easier to set the tilt where I want it (shield the sun, get rain to fall off the end I want, etc.) plus no electrical parts to break.
|
mtofell1
|
05/14/20 06:15pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Anybody ever buy a truck with a salvage title?
The Car Fax says this one had front end damage
Carfax is a fine tool to learn some stuff about a vehicle but there are all kinds of REALLY bad things that can happen to a vehicle that will not show up. Basically, it has to go through a public database (usually DMV) to show up. One car accidents, flooding and all kinds of other things won't show up. Most insurance companies don't report to DMV or Carfax, etc.
|
mtofell1
|
05/13/20 07:22pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Used diesel, anyway to tell if it's been chipped?
. . . I'm looking 1-ton 3500 SRW long bed crew cabs. Seems like the long bed is hard to find, and a lot of them have diesels. My $40k budget seems to put me in 2015-2017 territory.
I really don't want/need a diesel to haul around a TC . . . If you're willing to drive/fly, $40k can easily get you a new 2019 Ram 3500 SRW gasser somewhere. Lot to be said for a new truck with a full bumper-to-bumper warranty and no abuse. Ram has employee pricing this month (roughly 10% off MSRP, plus any dealer discounts). Better hurry though, those 2019's are going fast. We paid $42k (MSRP $54k) for our new 2016 Ram 3500 SRW Cummins in 2016. Could get the 2019 version of our truck for about $46k today. Good luck!
X2 - I'd opt for a new gasser versus used diesel anyday (assuming it fit my needs). The newer gassers are very impressive and have definitely narrowed the diesel v gas gap.
As for chipping, I agree to just look at what has been done to the truck. No many guys do lift kits, big tires, exhaust mods without a chip. Conversely, not many guys run a completely stock truck and only chip it.
|
mtofell1
|
05/12/20 08:22pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: should i raise tires off the ground for long storage
for a couple of years at least
That's quite a while. I'd elevate them or maybe spin them around every year so a different part is making contact. Also, how old are the tires? It might be time to consider changing them when you do eventually move.
Aside from the tires, if I were leaving my RV stationary for that long I'd throw it up on the blocks just for my comfort while using it.
|
mtofell1
|
05/11/20 07:14pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Anybody ever buy a truck with a salvage title?
I agree with the others.... get it checked out and talk to you insurance agent.
Also, for some reference, my business partner drove his 2 year old truck into a tree at about 35mph and completely trashed the entire front of the truck. I thought for sure it was totaled but the body shop (a close friend of mine that I can trust) told me it wasn't even close. They repaired it at nearly 20K cost! Point being there may be more to the story with the truck you're looking at.
With how much these trucks cost and how high the resale value is, it takes A LOT to total one out that is only 3 years old.
|
mtofell1
|
05/11/20 02:34pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: 1/2 ton sticker shock
I keep waiting to be the cranky old guy that can say, "$XX,000?" - that's more than I paid for my first house! We're almost there!!
|
mtofell1
|
05/07/20 01:47pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
 |
RE: Tires & DOT
My neighbor took delivery of the tires so was not correct on the DOT code. Here's the scoop. Two are made in China with dates 10-19 and 11-19. Two were made in Vietnam with dates 09-19 and 10-17.
I already have return authorization for them and will drop them off tomorrow at my local Walmart.
I'm not installing a tire that is 2.5 years old.
There are two places an hour from me that are authorized Sailun dealers. One has prices comparable to Walmart but an awful reputation and I don't do business of any sort with nasty people.
The other is a heavy truck equipment place and their prices are much higher.
I will not buy tires of any brand again until the DOT code can be verified.
I had the same experience with Walmart. Dates spanning about 2 years. Kind of gave me the idea Walmart buys up things others don't want. Can't really figure how they could wind up with such a variance. This is even more strange - tires from two countries.
As for the mounting thing - I removed my wheels and just took them in rather than hauling my trailer to the tire store and trying to thread it through the tight parking lot.
|
mtofell1
|
05/04/20 07:00pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Opinion: best value HD truck under 20k?
I'd go gasser since for 20K you'd be looking at something north of 150K miles in diesel (maybe even 200K). Ironically, I just looked up the KBB value of my 2014 6.4 Hemi, 4X4, CC, 95K miles - trade-in is still 27K!! You might have to go back to 2010-2012 or up in miles a lot to get to 20K. I can't believe how high values are on trucks. If I had 20K I'd probably go for a Chevy/GMC 6.0 - easy to work on, trusted drive train and tranny.
|
mtofell1
|
04/30/20 01:23am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: 6 volt battery post melted
PS I have no idea why it shows as a new member, maybe because I do not post often (too busy camping :) )
Really, we're all just jealous of someone that can camp for 13 years and only have a handful of problems/questions :)
|
mtofell1
|
04/29/20 01:02am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Scraped my Bumper!
Even with the hitch adjustment beware you still may scrape coming out of parking lots or other places. I had this problem (luckily it was just my bumper that scraped - ripped the spare tire and one of jacks off). I put heavily duty rollers on mine and they've worked great. I'm not sure if you a place to mount them but if so I'd recommend it.
|
mtofell1
|
04/26/20 04:28pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
Firearms in Calf.
Did a search and didn't find what I was looking for but did see some gun talk in a few threads so I'm assuming it is okay to talk about here? If not, mods please feel free to delete.
In researching handgun vehicle/RV carry laws in Calf. I readily find the rules about transport in locked container (NOT the glove box, etc.). I also see about using a gun for self defense in CA when life is threatened, etc. My question is, all the vehicle carry laws say for, "transport only". So, my question is, am I ever justified USING my gun as an out of state resident passing through? Basically, should I roll with my gun nearby (in a locked container) or should I just bury and store it until I am out of the state?
|
mtofell1
|
04/25/20 02:42am |
Roads and Routes
|
|
RE: Slider hitch - How to Question
I have a B/W and have been through this exact situation numerous times. All I can say is it's sometimes pretty rough. Depending on how quickly/firmly the trailer brakes grab, I find myself applying quite a bit of throttle and when the hitch starts to slide I panic and hit the truck brakes just before it latches which screws up the whole thing. So, I start over and it usually goes somewhat better the second time. I find there is kind of a sweet spot of getting it to release and change positions just right. I often find the handle doesn't fully snap back into the locked position and I have to either force it a bit or just "redo" the slide attempt. I don't know if my hitch has some problem (doubtful) or if it just takes a bit of luck/skill to get it just right.
Definitely NEVER put down the landing gear as others have advised.
Oh yeah, and I lube the hell out of the slide on the hitch with lithium grease and it makes everything move much easier (and quieter). I think the folks designing this hitch are living in some fantasy land where metal parts don't bind with one another. I do clean it an re-lube to keep from getting excess but I think they are crazy to say don't ever lube it.
Something that has happened to me on more than one occasion that I can warn you about is that the jaws don't release when unhooking. It's happened to me 4-5X out of probably 100X unhooking so it's not a huge deal but does kind of piss me off considering how much this whole thing cost. Anyway, the first thing to try is to just take the pressure off the hitch jaws by rolling the truck back with the wheels chocked or trailer brake engaged. If that doesn't do it, chock the trailer wheels from moving forward and back, landing gear down, use a bungee cord to hold the release handle open and pull the truck forward - the jaws will release but it sometimes takes a bit. Again this kind of pisses me off considering how much this thing cost but that's life. Once I've learned these "quirks" I've been fine.
Lastly, I totally agree with Thomas above - I slide mine back a lot even when I don't need the clearance just to help with the reaction and pivot - I have a SUPER tight parking situation at my house and the change in pivot helps.
|
mtofell1
|
04/22/20 12:35am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Tow Vehicle for 10k bumper pull
I agree a modern 2500 would be adequate (but sit tight, I'm sure the DRW crowd will be here shortly). As for which one, of course it's a constant debate. I own a 6.4 Hemi and you are correct that the tranny sucks. Aside from shifting poorly and having terrible gear spacing mine has blown up twice before 100K miles. This being said, when I shopped I found I got more for my $$ with Ram.
I think any of the trucks will do the job and it really just comes down to which one you like best. I'd have no problem with any of them. Since it sounds like you won't be towing often a gasser is probably sufficient (I should have mentioned earlier that the DRW diesel crowd will be here shortly).
|
mtofell1
|
04/20/20 02:05pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Tire recommendations for 5th wheel
I dont get caught up in all the capacity numbers like some of the propeller heads in here.
Huh? So..... you don't believe in gravity?
OP, manufacturers often cut it really close with tire ratings and trailer weight GVWR. For example my trailer GVWR is 12K and my D rated tires were rated at 2580# each. So, 20% pin weight leaves 10K between 4 tires. See what I mean about close? I replaced and went to E rated @ 2830# each to give me a bit more breathing room. The 80psi is the most my rims were rated for (stock D rated were 65psi) so that was as much as I could go up in rating.
As for brand, you've probably read that Chinese tires are frowned upon. My stock brand were Karrier and I didn't have any trouble in 4 years. I replaced them due to age and the horror stories I hear about. I went with "China Bombs" again but the ones with the best ratings I could find - Carlisle Radial Trail HD - reasonable price of about $100/ea at Discount Tire. Haven't used them yet but I feel better with the increased capacity, potentially better brand and being new.
|
mtofell1
|
04/12/20 06:02pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: How to order a 3500 to maximize payload?
Basic truck with no options. As for what you need for the camper, an outlet and tie downs?? I think since you're removing the bed those things would be easier to deal with later. You might consider airbags or Timbrens if the camper puts you up near the limits of the truck but that would also be dealt with later.
As far as maximizing payload, the tires and axle are the limiting factors and there aren't any "packages" that can change that. An options "diet" is really all you can do. There should be a chart somewhere that will give you a pretty close idea as to what to expect.
|
mtofell1
|
04/12/20 01:33pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Extended warranty. What are your thoughts
Good advice so far about shopping around and going only with a factory backed service contract. As everyone says, the warranty companies and dealers are in business to make money. Keep in mind A LOT of that money is from people overpaying so you can do a lot of damage control just by purchasing right. They also make a lot of money by people selling the vehicle before the coverage runs out.
I bought one on my 2014 Ram and it's paid off big time. I've had exhaust manifold bolts (2K?) and a tranny rebuild (4-5K?) done. Mine is a a lifetime which means it's good until the repair exceeds the value of the truck. I paid $2200 for it. Mainy, for me, if I didn't have the warranty there's no way I'd still have the truck. It's a company vehicle and I have to be able to manage my costs. I can't have a sudden 5K expense. When I look at how much it costs to do a trade-in and buy a new truck it's a no-brainer. Having the warranty/service contract has allowed me to save a lot by not having to buy/sell. Nonetheless, there will always be the bashers telling me I'm crazy and am throwing money away which is fine. To each their own.
I had forgotten about that lifetime warranty until I read your post. I'm interested in more details on your Ram including engine, transmission, mileage, etc. and what the repairs were.
Lifetime warranty was offered up until about 1-2 years ago. Diesels were excluded but you could still get 125K/7years or something close - that's also the max now after they stopped the Lifetime. There are different tiers but most have what's called the "Maxcare" which is generally an extension of the bumper to bumper factory warranty - Although it's a "service contract" so there are some differences. I've had no trouble getting things covered but have done absolutely zero mods of any kind.
I had heard of the annual check-up that Fish mentions and I think that was probably a thing at one time but is not anymore. I've asked a few times and service advisers don't know what I'm talking about. I also don't find any mention in my contract.
I have all service and repairs done at the dealership so it keeps things super simple. I'm totally in the minority in that I've kept my truck for 6+ years and have done no mods to void the warranty (service contract).
As for problems, my tranny failed at 37K miles and was covered under original powertrain warranty. I knew it wasn't right after the repair and argued a bit with the dealer but couldn't get anywhere. Knowing I had the extended warranty I just ran with it and sure enough, it went out again at 93K. Got it back and it was okay for about 2 weeks and 500 miles and blew again. Repaired.... again, and has been fine for about 6 months. I suppose it feels good but it's hard to say. Honestly, there is no way in hell I'd own this truck without being covered by a warranty of some type.
The other repair I mention is the exhaust manifold bolts. I was in for an oil change and complained of a noise and they said the bolts on both manifolds needed to be done. Honestly, if I'd been paying out of pocket I'd never have let them do the repair because I barely heard anything.... AND the noise I heard is still there after their repair.
I know it's easy for everyone to brand bash but from reading these forums for years you'll find horror stories with every brand. I really can't imagine owning any truck these days without a warranty of some type. Everyone on these forums is far too hung up on anecdotal evidence. Basically, they let their experience or that of a single family member/friend dictate an opinion of the brand as a whole.
Just to answer all your questions after all my ramblings.... truck is a 2014 Ram 6.4 Hemi 4X4 currently at 96K. Hoping to keep it for a while longer. She's paid off and still moves the RV reasonably well. Although, the new trucks sure do look nice!
|
mtofell1
|
04/11/20 11:12pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
