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 > Your search for posts made by 'mxdad777' found 42 matches.

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RE: Plug it in or shut it down

Thanks for the replies. I think I’ll continue to leave my RV plugged in but turn the refrigerator off if it’s going to be sitting idle for more than a few weeks. My RV is stored in an enclosed cover so no concerns about freezing here. I also leave a few windows cracked for ventilation. Thanks again for the input.
mxdad777 07/08/19 12:44pm Tech Issues
Plug it in or shut it down

The question is....when not using your RV, do you shut everything down or do you keep it plugged in? I was told 10 years ago to keep the RV plugged in and the refrigerator on. Shut off everything else like the furnace, AC unit, etc. recently I was told that when in storage to shut everything down and turn off the disconnect switch to the batteries. I have a Progressive Dynamics PD9260CV converter/charger with the charge wizard technology on board. It’s my understanding that this converter manages the charging of the batteries and “tends them” rather than cooking them. It’s also my understanding that turning a refrigerator off for long periods of time is what is hard on them. As a side note, we use our RV 6 to 8 times a year and it rarely sits more than 90 days without being used. Currently I keep my RV plugged into a 50 amp outlet at all times with my refrigerator on and all other appliances and lights turned off. So let’s hear it, how do you store your RV when not in use and why?
mxdad777 07/07/19 10:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Furrion Observation Camera Wiring

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mxdad777 06/22/19 11:38pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Furrion Observation Camera Wiring

they are not all wired like that....my Wildcat has a separate power to the camera Yes, my son has a Grand Design and his is wired hot as long as his trailer has 12 volts. It’s not tied to the tow vehicle at all. On my Rockwood, they just tapped into one of the back running lights for power, hence why my headlights have to be on.
mxdad777 06/22/19 02:46pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Furrion Observation Camera Wiring

Thanks for the replies. I’ll just turn the switch when I want the camera on, or use the fog light button.
mxdad777 06/22/19 09:07am Fifth-Wheels
Furrion Observation Camera Wiring

My Rockwood came pre wired for a Furrion backup/observation camera. I connected it today, but it only works when I turn my headlights on. My truck is a 2019 GMC and the lights are auto. Running lights during the day and lights come on at dark. I obviously want the camera on day or night when I’m towing. Is there a way to fix this or am I stuck with having to manually override my headlights when towing during daylight hours?
mxdad777 06/21/19 11:18pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Awning adjustment

Okay, so after looking through the manual and carefully inspecting the awning assembly, the only way I can see to adjust the pitch is by pulling the arms in and tightening the black knob. This is a pain in the ***! I want it adjusted so when I extend it there is about a 10 to 15 degree slope. Not just to shed rain, but for shade too. If it’s raining much at all, it’s usually accompanied by wind too so I bring them in. I don’t like having to deal with the knob and the wife definitely won’t. I can’t even reach the front knob without a ladder. Anyway, I appreciate the reply’s, but I’m still hopeful I’m missing something that will allow the adjustment. I’m not even opposed to drilling a new hole in the awning bracket and repositioning the arm, although I don’t think that should be necessary.
mxdad777 06/15/19 11:41am Tech Issues
Awning adjustment

I have a new to me 2018 Rockwood 5th wheel. It has two Dometic 9100 power awnings on it and to me they both look out of adjustment. If it were to rain, the water would pool up on top or even run back towards the trailer. I know I can angle down one corner if it rains, but I’d like them to slant down anyway for more shade too. I looked through the installation manual and don’t see anything about adjusting the pitch of the awning. Is there a way to adjust this awning so it slants down instead of being level or pointing up? https://i.imgur.com/2wIqzPll.jpg
mxdad777 06/14/19 10:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Fold up stairs blocking door

Thanks for the replies. I ordered the Torklift steps today. After all the good things you had to say, I figured they must be good and they definitely will fix my problem. Thanks again for the input.
mxdad777 05/31/19 11:15pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Fold up stairs blocking door

Can you do something before you back into the garage? That’s what I’m trying to figure out. Before I back it into the garage I’d like to remove the steps so once in the garage I can access the trailer if needed. I don’t want to unbolt them each time though, so I’m looking for an easier method. I’m pretty handy and mechanical, so I’m sure I can come up with a solution, but was hoping someone else had already come up with a solution to this problem. I’m sure it has come up numerous times already.
mxdad777 05/27/19 08:31pm Fifth-Wheels
Fold up stairs blocking door

I’m not sure if this is the correct forum to post this in, so moderator please feel free to move it if it belongs somewhere else. Anyway, my 5er has the big set of steps that fold up behind the door. Although they are nice and sturdy, once I back my 5er into my garage, I can’t get in it because there isn’t enough room to drop down the stairs. I’m sure I’m not the only one that has this problem so I’m looking for ideas. I’m thinking something along the lines of a couple of pins that can be pulled to remove the stairs and then just use a stool to step into the trailer when in storage or something along those lines. Any ideas of what I can do?
mxdad777 05/27/19 07:43pm Fifth-Wheels
Best onboard airbags for Duramax

I want to add air bags to my 2019 GMC 2500hd Duramax. I want it to be the kind with an onboard compressor so I can adjust at anytime, anywhere. What system are you guys running? Any pros and cons I need to be aware of? Thanks for any info!
mxdad777 05/17/19 11:41pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Dometic Refrigerator E3 code

I’d still find the hi limit reset switch located on the stack for the burner and electric heating element and press it to reset the hi limit switch If the Hi limit switch is tripped, you will NOT have power to the refer and controls. The OP does have power to his eyebrow board. Doug So apparently this wasn’t the case with the OP’s fridge as he got an E3 code with that reset tripped. True, His model must be a completely different model than the rest of the Dometics. That temp switch is supposed to kill all 12 volt power to the refer, UNLESS someone has rewired that switch. That switch usually has 2- red wires to it. His shows a red and yellow. Doug I have no idea what other models of Dometic refrigerators are out there, but for reference, the model number on my Dometic is RM1350SLMX. I highly doubt that anyone has touched the unit since coming from the factory. The trailer was bought brand new by an acquaintance after they lost their house in a fire. They were planning on living in it until they could rebuild their house. Plans changed and they ended up purchasing a different home. They only lived in it for a couple of months and never had any problems with anything in the trailer. I bought the trailer from them a month ago and everything worked great until my 220v blunder. Anyway, everything is working great again now and the wife and I are anxious to hit the road. Thanks again for the help and input.
mxdad777 05/09/19 08:38am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Refrigerator E3 code

So I received my new control board today and installed it. After connecting to both 12v and 120v power I turned the fridge on. Immediately the E3 error code came on.:M The only positive news was the interior light stayed on as it is supposed to. It wasn't intermittent like before, but my main problem was still there. My fridge won't work! I once again went back through the service manual and started going over everything again. I went through the trouble shooting codes (turn off, hold the TEMP.SET button down, turn on fridge, scroll through codes) In doing this (don't ask why I didn't try this before) I saw an E1 code pop up. (Hardware fault in gas operation, check controls for DC power, etc) So I go out to the fridge and start checking all of this again. On the flu itself, there is a red and yellow wire attached. I try and remove them to see if there is power there (I'm not even sure what there purpose is) and while trying to remove the wires I see a tiny little black button in between the wires. (see pic below) I remember a few different people on here telling me about a reset button located on the flu, and I looked for one, but never found what to me looked like a reset button. That coupled with the fact that no where in the owners or service manual does it mention anything about a reset button, I had determined that my fridge didn't have one. Well, it does! I pushed that little black button in, went back inside and the fridge started right up and is running like a champ. Now I don't know (and don't really care at this point) if my circuit board was bad or not, but the fact that the light was wigging out before I changed it and now its not, I'm going to say that there was something not quite right with the circuit board. Anyway, I wanted to post this follow up with the hope that maybe it will help someone in the future. As for me, I learned a lot about RV 30amp outlets vs 50amp outlets. I also learned a lot about my refrigerator. Thanks again for everyone's help and input. https://i.imgur.com/DHTVfrgl.jpg
mxdad777 05/08/19 05:22pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

Sorry for your troubles. I think someone mentioned it already, But I will suggest a EMS unit (Progressive Industries makes a good one). I had a hard wired one in my last camper, and it was the first thing I put in my new one. It will cut power to save the rig in the event something like this happens in the future. I have not run into issues with miss wiring yet, but have had too low of voltage at older camp grounds. Yes, my converter was smoked too. It was a cheap one anyway, so I just ordered a new Progressive Dynamics PD9260CV Inteli-Power 9200 Series Converter/Charger with Charge Wizard - 60 Amp to replace it.
mxdad777 05/06/19 01:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Refrigerator E3 code

Yesterday afternoon I pulled out my Fluke multi meter and started testing everything I could find in the service manual. The 120v elements ohm reading was in spec as well as the thermistor. All of the fuses were good and I have good 12v power feeding the circuit board. The odd things I discovered were....I would test the 5amp 12v fuse and have 12.8 volts. 30 minutes later I would check it and have no power. Check it again an hour later and have power. When I open the fridge door the light would come on and then randomly go off. I would shut the power off and then the light would work again, but then go out again. Sometimes the light would stay on for only a few seconds and sometimes it would stay on for about 30 to 45 seconds. Anyway, it appears that there is a lot of random things going on so I ordered a new circuit board and I’ll go from there. Oh, I also pulled the old circuit board and I cant see anything visable that is burnt, but I’ve ran out of things to test so I’m going to replace it and see where it gets me. Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ll report the end result when I’m finished. Maybe it will help someone else someday.
mxdad777 05/06/19 01:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Refrigerator E3 code

So I’ve disconnected 120v AC power to the trailer and have only 12v power feeding the trailer. I tried disconnecting 12v power for a few minutes but as soon as I restore 12v power I immediately get the E3 error code. I only know of two fuses on the 12v side. One inline 4 amp and one mini 5 amp in the circuit board. Both fuses test good. I know I have 12 volts feeding the control board, I know the fuses are good, but still get the E3 code. I don’t see any type of reset button and since I have the display reading E3 and 12v power to the circuit board, I don’t think a reset button, (if there was one) is my problem. Unless someone can steer me in another direction, or tell me something different to check, I think my next move is to spend the $200 and buy a new circuit board. Thanks for the suggestions and if anyone has any more, I surely welcome them.
mxdad777 05/05/19 11:59am Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

I recently bought a 2018 Rockwood 5th wheel with a 50 amp service. I have a 240 v 50 amp outlet in my RV cover that I’ve used for years to plug my motorhome into. Since I still have my motorhome and it’s parked in the RV garage I decided to hook up my 5er temporarily to my 30 amp 240 volt welder outlet. I had no idea that RV 30 amp cords were 120v only. Long story short, after connecting my 30 to 50 adapter I sent 240 volts down one leg of the buss bar. So everything on that side of the bus bar received 240 volts while the other side received zero. My question now is what will I need to replace? My refrigerator, GFCI, rooftop A/C were all on that side. The A/C seems to be working fine, but the fridge isn’t and the GFCI is smoked. Although I’ve wired up many homes, I certainly learned something about RV’a and their wiring today. I’m hoping just the circuit board on the fridge can be replaced. Anyone else have any experience with this? I’m sure this can’t be the first time this has happened. Stupid me!! "I have a 240 v 50 amp outlet in my RV cover that I’ve used for years to plug my motorhome into" ---- Just how did that work?? 240 motor coach? It works just fine even with my 2018 trailer with a 50 amp cord. The 50 amp receptacle has two hot legs, one neutral and one ground, just like a house. The trailer has two bus bars that split the power. One 120v leg feeds one bar and the other 120v leg feeds the other bar. They share the neutral and ground wires. I have my trailer plugged into it now and it works great. I got into trouble because I thought the 30 amp was wired the same way. I’m now a little smarter about RV power than I was yesterday. ;)
mxdad777 05/04/19 08:17pm Tech Issues
Dometic Refrigerator E3 code

I have a different thread going that addressed my issue of 240v power connection. I have everything corrected now but need help with my Refrigerator. I know I have good power to the fridge receptacle, but the fridge is giving me an error code E3. I get the code regardless if I try LP or 120v. The make is Dometic and the model is RM1350SLMX. I googled E3 code and it talks about a recent button, but I don’t believe this fridge has the reset button I read about. Any ideas how to clear the E3 code or is my circuit board toast?
mxdad777 05/04/19 07:16pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

Ok, after replacing both of my GFCI receptacles it appears everything works except for the refrigerator. It looks like all outlets ran through the GFCI receptacles first and so they became the sacrificial child. Lucky there, $40 and I’m back in business for most of the RV. The converter is fine because it was on the buss bar that received no power. So my fridge is the problem. I know I have good power to the fridge receptacle, but the fridge is giving me an error code E3. I get the code regardless if I try LP or 120v. The make is Dometic and the model is RM1350SLMX. I googled E3 code and it talks about a recent button, but I don’t believe this fridge has the reset button I read about. Any ideas how to clear the E3 code or is my circuit board toast?
mxdad777 05/04/19 06:44pm Tech Issues
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