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 > Your search for posts made by 'mxdad777' found 45 matches.

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RE: 30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

I recently bought a 2018 Rockwood 5th wheel with a 50 amp service. I have a 240 v 50 amp outlet in my RV cover that I’ve used for years to plug my motorhome into. Since I still have my motorhome and it’s parked in the RV garage I decided to hook up my 5er temporarily to my 30 amp 240 volt welder outlet. I had no idea that RV 30 amp cords were 120v only. Long story short, after connecting my 30 to 50 adapter I sent 240 volts down one leg of the buss bar. So everything on that side of the bus bar received 240 volts while the other side received zero. My question now is what will I need to replace? My refrigerator, GFCI, rooftop A/C were all on that side. The A/C seems to be working fine, but the fridge isn’t and the GFCI is smoked. Although I’ve wired up many homes, I certainly learned something about RV’a and their wiring today. I’m hoping just the circuit board on the fridge can be replaced. Anyone else have any experience with this? I’m sure this can’t be the first time this has happened. Stupid me!! "I have a 240 v 50 amp outlet in my RV cover that I’ve used for years to plug my motorhome into" ---- Just how did that work?? 240 motor coach? It works just fine even with my 2018 trailer with a 50 amp cord. The 50 amp receptacle has two hot legs, one neutral and one ground, just like a house. The trailer has two bus bars that split the power. One 120v leg feeds one bar and the other 120v leg feeds the other bar. They share the neutral and ground wires. I have my trailer plugged into it now and it works great. I got into trouble because I thought the 30 amp was wired the same way. I’m now a little smarter about RV power than I was yesterday. ;)
mxdad777 05/04/19 08:17pm Tech Issues
Dometic Refrigerator E3 code

I have a different thread going that addressed my issue of 240v power connection. I have everything corrected now but need help with my Refrigerator. I know I have good power to the fridge receptacle, but the fridge is giving me an error code E3. I get the code regardless if I try LP or 120v. The make is Dometic and the model is RM1350SLMX. I googled E3 code and it talks about a recent button, but I don’t believe this fridge has the reset button I read about. Any ideas how to clear the E3 code or is my circuit board toast?
mxdad777 05/04/19 07:16pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

Ok, after replacing both of my GFCI receptacles it appears everything works except for the refrigerator. It looks like all outlets ran through the GFCI receptacles first and so they became the sacrificial child. Lucky there, $40 and I’m back in business for most of the RV. The converter is fine because it was on the buss bar that received no power. So my fridge is the problem. I know I have good power to the fridge receptacle, but the fridge is giving me an error code E3. I get the code regardless if I try LP or 120v. The make is Dometic and the model is RM1350SLMX. I googled E3 code and it talks about a recent button, but I don’t believe this fridge has the reset button I read about. Any ideas how to clear the E3 code or is my circuit board toast?
mxdad777 05/04/19 06:44pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

You’re exactly right. I now am more educated with RV wiring and understand what caused the problem. I am pretty thick skinned though, so the piling on doesn’t bother me. ;). Yes, my concern now is fixing what was damaged. That’s the process I’m going through now. My biggest concern is the fridge. Since all fuses I can find on the back of the unit are good, I’m assuming I fried the circuit board. I’ll be taking it out soon to inspect. The converter was on the dead side so I should be fine there. The microwave and AC unit were on the hot side, but both seem to be working fine. Onward I go...
mxdad777 05/04/19 04:31pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

I changed the welder receptacle to one that would fit my RV. My mistake was thinking both the 30amp and 50amp RV outlets were both 240v. I knew everything in the RV ran off of 120v, but figured it was the same configuration for both 30 and 50. When I tested the buss bars in the panel, I indeed had 240v on one leg and zero volts on the other. I checked the glass fuse on the fridge circuit board and unfortunately the fuse is good. My guess is the circuit board is toast. Since the microwave and AC unit seem to be working fine, I’m hopeful the only damage was to the fridge. I think my converter should be fine, because it’s fed off the buss bar that had zero power going to it. You did not have 240 one leg. You had 120 on one leg and 120 on the neutrals. Yes, you are correct. That’s what I meant, just worded it poorly. One bus bar was dead, one had 120v plus the neutral had 120v giving me 240v for everything tied to the one buss bar.
mxdad777 05/04/19 03:56pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

If you used a standard 50/30 dogbone adapter be aware that the adapter connects both hot legs of the coach together. Meaning you put 240 on both hot legs, not just one. That’s what I used, however when I tested both buss bars only one had 240v. The other bar was dead.
mxdad777 05/04/19 03:21pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

I changed the welder receptacle to one that would fit my RV. My mistake was thinking both the 30amp and 50amp RV outlets were both 240v. I knew everything in the RV ran off of 120v, but figured it was the same configuration for both 30 and 50. When I tested the buss bars in the panel, I indeed had 240v on one leg and zero volts on the other. I checked the glass fuse on the fridge circuit board and unfortunately the fuse is good. My guess is the circuit board is toast. Since the microwave and AC unit seem to be working fine, I’m hopeful the only damage was to the fridge. I think my converter should be fine, because it’s fed off the buss bar that had zero power going to it.
mxdad777 05/04/19 03:19pm Tech Issues
30 amp 240 volt mistake!!

I recently bought a 2018 Rockwood 5th wheel with a 50 amp service. I have a 240 v 50 amp outlet in my RV cover that I’ve used for years to plug my motorhome into. Since I still have my motorhome and it’s parked in the RV garage I decided to hook up my 5er temporarily to my 30 amp 240 volt welder outlet. I had no idea that RV 30 amp cords were 120v only. Long story short, after connecting my 30 to 50 adapter I sent 240 volts down one leg of the buss bar. So everything on that side of the bus bar received 240 volts while the other side received zero. My question now is what will I need to replace? My refrigerator, GFCI, rooftop A/C were all on that side. The A/C seems to be working fine, but the fridge isn’t and the GFCI is smoked. Although I’ve wired up many homes, I certainly learned something about RV’a and their wiring today. I’m hoping just the circuit board on the fridge can be replaced. Anyone else have any experience with this? I’m sure this can’t be the first time this has happened. Stupid me!!
mxdad777 05/04/19 02:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Coleman AC compressor won’t start

Stupid me!! I understand household electricity like the back of my hand. I obviously DON’T understand RV power. I didn’t realize that RV 30amp outlets were only 120v. When I plugged my trailer into my 30amp 240v welder outlet and used the RV 30-50 adapter, I sent 240v down the one buss bar. The AC unit was running off 240v instead of 120v. I also fried the GFCI outlet (that’s a cheap fix) but now I have a refrigerator that’s not working. Time to dive into that and hope I didn’t fry the fridge. I’m hoping to find a blown fuse or something. The AC unit seems to have survived and is running perfect. The fan motor is cool to the touch and the compressor kicks right on and runs like a champ. Anyway, another live and learn lesson about these darn RV’s we love so much.
mxdad777 05/04/19 09:43am Tech Issues
RE: Coleman AC compressor won’t start

It might be worth trying a "start kit" on it. They used to be standard equipment but I'm pretty sure they're not anymore. It’s funny you mention this. I just found a schematic for my unit and it lists a “start device package” as one of the components. (Part # 8333A9021 Start Device Pkg. (includes start capacitor and PTCR device). My compressor doesn’t even have this part on it. Weird! Why would it be listed on a parts schematic and not be used on all units? Well anyway, I found one on Amazon and it will be here Monday. I’ll install it and hopefully that fixes it.
mxdad777 05/03/19 10:36pm Tech Issues
Coleman AC compressor won’t start

I have a 2018 5th wheel with a roof top Coleman Mach model # 48254C869. When I turn on the Thermostat the fan runs but when the compressor tries to start it hums real loud for about 1 to 2 seconds and then shuts off. It will try to start about every minute or so, but it only hums and then shuts off. I suspected the start capacitor, but I checked it and it is testing good. It is rated at 60uf +/- 5% and it tests at 60.3. I also only found two start capacitors, one for the fan and one for the pump. Shouldn’t there be a run capacitor too? Any ideas what else I might check? Also while I was up there I put my hand on the fan motor and it was so hot to the touch it would have burned me if I left my hand on it for more than a second or two. Is this normal for the fan motor to be this hot to the touch after running less than 15 minutes? I own a tool repair shop so I know my way around most things, but I’ve never messed with any AC units. Any help will be much appreciated.
mxdad777 05/03/19 09:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer and truck ride height

Go to the scales along the highway and weigh each axle or go to a truck stop. You may be surprised at how much more the RV's rear axle weighs. Your truck appears to be riding rear low or is that an optical contusion? The TV is squatting slightly. I’m thinking about getting air bags for my truck.
mxdad777 05/03/19 02:24pm Fifth-Wheels
Third Brake light camera

I have a 2019 GMC 2500HD Duramax and was told that I could replace the third brake light with one that has a camera built in for hooking up 5th wheel trailers. Obviously the tailgate camera is useless when hooking up a 5er since the tailgate is dropped and pointing down. Does anyone have or has anyone installed the third brake light camera? Is it a helpful accessory or something that’s not really necessary? I’m totally new to the 5th wheel scene, so I’m reaching out for advice. Thanks!
mxdad777 05/02/19 10:36pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Trailer and truck ride height

I hooked it back up and have 6.5” of clearance between the truck bed rails and the bottom of the trailer. I was very happy to see that because I was thinking I only had around 5”. So other than the 5er having its nose a little higher than the front, I think I’m going to leave it and see how it tows. Thanks again for the help.
mxdad777 05/02/19 08:36pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: RV Paint Protectant.

Typically you can get a professional complete outside detail including hand wax for $10 to $12 ft. Every two years I pay a professional to do my entire rig and I think it's money well spent. I would skip the factory job and have a local detail shop do it. Just make sure you get references because detailing an RV is different than a car.
mxdad777 05/01/19 12:39pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Trailer and truck ride height

Thanks for the input. I’m going to hook it back up and take another measurement on the clearance between the truck bed rails and the trailer. After more research and reading your replies, I think this is my biggest concern especially since a few of the parks we like to frequent are on a hill and there are a few turns where you go from a hill to flat rather quickly. I don’t want to be damaging either the truck or 5er.
mxdad777 04/30/19 11:55am Fifth-Wheels
Trailer and truck ride height

I know I’m close to level, but I’d really like to get the 5er spot on level. I think the rear axle and tires would thank me and I’d feel better about it. I also think I might want to add some air bags to my truck to take out the squat. My problem is, the B&W companion hitch is at its lowest setting and the Reece pin box is at its highest. I have no other way to adjust that I’m aware of. So I’m thinking about putting spacers on my Dexter torsion axles to raise the trailer 2 or 3 inches. If I’m correct, this would allow me to lower the nose of the trailer to level and also allow me to add air bags to my truck if I decide to do that. Right now my trailer to truck bed rail clearance is about 5”, I’d feel a lot better if I could get 6” or even 7” of clearance. So let’s here it from you experienced experts and help this newbie out. Below is a pic of where I’m currently at. Oh and does anyone know what spacers I would need? I have tandem 5,000 lb axles, Dexter model #5957430. Or am I over reacting and everything looks fine as is. https://i.imgur.com/eloEQv4l.jpg These are the axles I have. https://i.imgur.com/kjyLUHJl.jpg
mxdad777 04/29/19 11:17pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: New Duramax owner hitch question

I do have the block out in the hitch, but since I have the puck system I believe it's okay to do that. I am curious though if anyone is running the B&W puck system in a 6'6" GMC/Chevy with a standard pin box? If I have the clearance, I may just bolt the Revolution pin box in the fixed position and tow conventional with the pivot point at the hitch instead of the trailer. I know i could do this myself and check clearances, but thought maybe someone is already towing this way and could save me the time of switching everything over.
mxdad777 04/29/19 11:23am Fifth-Wheels
RE: New Duramax owner hitch question

I picked up a great deal on a B&W Companion puck system. I have everything hooked up and even with the arms on the lowest setting, the trailer isn’t exactly level. It’s a little high in the front and my truck is squatting a little. Is this acceptable, or do I need to make some adjustments? PS so far I love the hitch. Looks very well built and easy to use.. https://i.imgur.com/Wu0oXZ2l.jpg
mxdad777 04/28/19 10:47pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: New Duramax owner hitch question

I picked up a new 2019 GMC Duramax today and it has the optional 5th wheel/goose neck option installed from the factory. My question is, what hitch do you all recommend for the puck system? In my research I can only find 2 different models. One by B&W and one by Curt. Are there any others I should be looking at? You GM owners, which one do you prefer? Thanks! When you say "5th wheel/gooseneck option", are you referring to the 4 pucks or the ball in the middle of the bed? B & W makes a great product for both options. If it's the ball in the bed, you may want to consider the Andersen Ultimate Hitch as well if you're looking for light-weight and simplicity. I've used both and enjoyed them equally. It has both the 4 puck slots as well as the center goose neck installed from the factory.
mxdad777 04/27/19 12:22pm Fifth-Wheels
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