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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Crummy headlights - Can't see, need upgrade

I echo the other suggestions about checking the wiring and adding some relays. But you should rewire the entire loop. Make sure the lights have a good ground.
opnspaces 01/20/21 10:32am Tech Issues
RE: UPDATED Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

Yes I'm definitely familiar with the trans cooler on one side and oil cooler on the other. Like you say, catching all the different fluids is a bit of a challenge. My 6.0 also has the second cooler in front of the radiator. I'm glad to hear that your transmission temp basically mirrors mine. I was a bit suspicious that after the radiator replace the temp would climb to 200 and basically just sit there no matter how hard I pushed it when towing. It almost seems like there is some kind of thermostat on the cooler line that is mostly closed during normal driving. But after reaching 200 it just opens wide and lets the fluid flow.
opnspaces 01/19/21 09:28am Towing
Had a mounting bolt failure on my Equal-i-zer hitch

I took a trip out to Anza Borrego desert this weekend and all went well. I pulled up to the house and walked back to the tongue to unhitch. That's when I saw that a mounting bolt had broken in the hitch. Here's a picture of what the hitch mounting normally looks like. https://i.imgur.com/iLNHQeB.jpg height=400 And a picture of what I saw when I went to unhitch. https://i.imgur.com/ge688uZ.jpg height=400 Upon closer inspection I can see that the bolt had been failing for quite some time now and one of the plates is bent. https://i.imgur.com/GNlISGs.jpg height=400 My guess is that I must have over tightened it over time. But as you can see in the first picture the mounting has been known to walk around on the tongue. Over that last 15 years I have repositioned the mounting and painted the frame a few times. The funny thing is just last week I was considering welding the hitch plate to the frame to stop it from walking around which would have probably prevented this. I did reach out to Progress mfg about the broken bolt and bent hanger plate to see if they might want them returned. Being Sunday afternoon I don't expect a reply for a day or to though.
opnspaces 01/17/21 05:23pm Towing
RE: UPDATED Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

Great thread. I would service the transmission, after heating the fluid up like that a few times. Check that fan clutch too. It doesn't make sense since the engine stays cool, but installing and HD clutch in my old truck made a noticeable difference, even though the old one seemed good. Fortunately the transmission pan has a drain bolt in it. So I have done a few drain and refills on it because of the high temps. I'll probably do at least one more after this last trip just to be sure the fluid is fairly fresh.
opnspaces 01/17/21 04:49pm Towing
RE: UPDATED Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

UPDATE Sunday Jan 17, 2021 This is a follow up on this post from last year. As reported in the previous pages I was fighting high transmission temperatures when pulling my trailer through the mountains and deserts around San Diego. After many months of deliberation on the different methods to cool things down I decided that I really didn’t trust the new radiator that the used car lot had installed when I bought the Suburban. So early December 2020 I ordered a factory GM radiator from an online dealership for $250. I have just finished my second desert trip and the transmission temp is much better. This trip was in the high 80’s pulling some huge hills with my foot on the floor. These grades are steep, I would guess around 6 percent and like I said my foot was on the floor for about a mile uphill. I was really trying to put stress and heat up the transmission as much as I could. Below are two pictures from today. This first is the transmission temp with the new radiator when I’m just cruising while towing. Normal cruising https://i.imgur.com/HwGOaSxl.jpg This second picture is after driving for 45 minutes uphill out of the desert. I took it near the top of a long steep hill on the S2 in San Diego. I was trying hard to heat the transmission up. And happily I could never get it much past 200 degrees. Middle of uphill on S2 https://i.imgur.com/fazbvLSl.jpg All in all I’m satisfied that I made the right choice on the radiator. In hindsight I wish I had thought to cut open the replaced radiator to see if there was even a cooler in it. But after my first tow with the new radiator I was so disgusted with the old one that I just threw it in the trash. Moderator edit to fix picture URL's.
opnspaces 01/17/21 04:42pm Towing
RE: How difficult to install new brake drums

Almost any brake shop or even a Napa with a machine shop can measure the drums to see if they are worn out. But just think about this. Most every car with 200,000 miles on it is still running the original rear brake drums. If the brakes don't seem to work well you need to investigate the brake system (adjustment,wiring, 7 pin socket and controller) Easy check, plug your trailer up to the tow vehicle and have somebody step on the brake pedal. Walk around and see if there is a hum or buzz from every wheel. No hum or buzz means no electrical to that wheel.
opnspaces 01/10/21 09:10am Travel Trailers
RE: Master Tow Dolly and greasing bearings.

Maybe they meant every 600 days.
opnspaces 01/08/21 05:41pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Charging issues?

This may be a dumb question, but when on shore power do the lights still work off battery or the 120? I assume battery or inverter. Mostly depends on the age of the RV. But most likely you do not need a battery in order to power the lights when on shore power. It's an easy test though.With Shore power disconnected, disconnect the negative battery cable and the lights should go out. Now plug in the shore power with the battery still disconnected and see if the lights come back on.
opnspaces 01/08/21 12:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Toilet Mystery

only so many ways this can happen. The fill valve is faulty and the water pump filled the bowl. You said the fresh tank is empty so this probably isn't the issue. The fill valve is faulty and shore hose had extremely high pressure and filled the bowl. This is a possibility and you should be able to reproduce it fairly quickly. There is a crack in the skylight and the bowl filled with rain water. I find this unlikely as I don't think Paso Robles gets enough rain to fill the bowl through a cracked skylight. Which leaves the last possibility. You said you like to clean your tanks really well. My guess is that you lost track of time while filling the tank for a flush and the water pushed up through the fill valve and filled the bowl. Then you pulled the drain valve handle and drained the tank but the toilet stayed full of water. When you next moved the trailer the water in the full toilet sloshed over the rim and landed on the floor.
opnspaces 01/07/21 04:40pm Travel Trailers
RE: Charging issues?

Yes the 13+ volts is a surface charge from the charger. A fully charged battery should be around 12.7v. Put it on the trickle charge for a day or so. Then disconnect it from the charger and let it sit overnight not connected to anything. Check the voltage in the morning it should be 12.6v or higher. If it's any lower I would replace it when the next camping season comes around. Here's something else if you really want to dive into it. Once you have a battery that is holding a fairly steady charge (ie 12.6 or 12.7v overnight, then take a voltage measurement on the battery terminals. Write this number down and label it Battery Voltage. Now check the terminals at the circuit breaker, thy should both equal battery voltage. In the RV you will notice that the fuses have two little windows in them right next to the amperage rating. These windows are the opposite ends of the blades on the fuse. Poke the positive probe of your meter into one of the windows and find a good ground for the negative probe. https://i.imgur.com/D42LGth.jpg?1 height=300 You should get battery voltage on each side of the fuses. If you read battery voltage on one window and 0 volts on the other window then the fuse is blown.
opnspaces 01/07/21 04:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging issues?

Darklock, something about your first post still just doesn't seem right and I wonder if you have more than one issue going on. Yes it really appears that the battery is a problem. But you also mentioned that sometimes all the 12v works after towing, and sometimes nothing 12v works after unplugging from shore power. I'm wondering if you might have a failing circuit breaker (CB) between the battery and the trailer. Usually it's a small box on or under the tongue and on the positive cable from the battery. https://i.imgur.com/xKUJqOj.jpg?1 height=300 If not the CB your built in charger might not be working. Since you can take voltage readings here's a few checks that might help. If you have a CB as pictured above, take a voltage reading from each post to the ground terminal of the battery. The voltages should be the same. If they are different then buy a new circuit breaker. CB's are available online as well as at places like O'reileys, Napa, Autozone for about $10. Just make sure you get the same size breaker as printed on the side of the old one. With the shore power unplugged and the umbilical disconnected take a voltage reading at the battery (positive to negative posts) Then plug in the shore power and take a second voltage reading. If your charger is working and all the fuses and circuit breakers are good your voltage should jump up to at least 13.2v and hopefully higher. If no jump in voltage then you have a charging problem when plugged in. Now disconnect shore power and plug in the Umbilical and start the tow vehicle. Does the trailer battery receive 13.2 or higher voltage? I'm thinking that one of the above tests will show that something is not charging the battery like it should. Last thing. I would trace the negative cable from the battery to the frame. Remove that ground bolt, inspect for or clean off any rust or paint and then reinstall the bolt. This will help ensure that you have a good ground path back to the battery.
opnspaces 01/07/21 10:44am Tech Issues
RE: Charging issues?

I always plug it up to the house for a day to get the fridge cool before any trip. Last few trips I noticed that once I unplugged, the 12 volt stuff did not work. Connect to truck and they do. After a short drive everything seems to work as it should, and continues to do so for the entire trip. These trips were anywhere from one to four weeks in duration. What do I need to look at? Like I said , it may be a while before I can actually work on it, so follow up questions could be a ways off. When you say after a short drive everything seems to work anywhere from one to four weeks; Is everything working on battery or are you plugged into shore power? If the one to four weeks is on shore power your answer is the battery is dead. the truck managed to put enough power into the battery during the drive to allow you t get setup and plugged in. If the one to four weeks is on battery alone, we need more information about how you are recharging the batteries. Do you have a generator, solar, idling the truck?
opnspaces 01/06/21 03:37pm Tech Issues
RE: How to feed multi input sound system from one output laptop?

You mention an old USB hub. One thing to be aware of is the color of the center of the plug as it indicates the type and speed. In the link I posted the centers are blue, that means USB 3 The fastest. A USB 2 uses black centers (a bit slower) and a USB 1 uses white centers (really slow). If your old hub has white centers I would probably toss it as USB 1 isn't good for much except maybe a keyboard or mouse input. Technically there is a USB 4.0, but you're not going to find a hub with it on Amazon.
opnspaces 01/04/21 05:07pm Technology Corner
RE: How did I do this? - Bent Ball Mount

My buddy showed me his cheap Harbor Freight load compensation hitch because he thought the ball was causing wear on his mount. I paused and said, the whole thing looks bent to me. It's bent and I'm not surprised. I bought wall mount that was rated for 75 lbs for my TV. I mounted a small 20 inch LED TV that probably weights all of ten pounds. As soon as I let go of the TV the mount started to bend and sag. Harbor Freight seems to specify the absolutely cheapest they can get. I've seen enough failures over the years with Harbor Freight items that I would never buy or trust something like a weight distribution hitch.
opnspaces 01/04/21 04:44pm Towing
RE: How to feed multi input sound system from one output laptop?

Since each USB port can support something like 127 devices, here's another item you might consider. Link
opnspaces 01/04/21 10:29am Technology Corner
RE: How to feed multi input sound system from one output laptop?

would this work? link
opnspaces 01/03/21 02:02am Technology Corner
RE: Manual Carefree Colorado Awning issue

If you are willing or capable to do the investigation and repair work yourself it really is fairly simple. Yes the spring is under tension, but if you have a vice grip pliers it's easy to do. Look at the ends from the ground while it's still rolled up. The roller tube has a bracket or sleeve that is slipped over the arms of the awning and uses a single screw to keep it from falling off. What you need to do is figure out which of the two springs broke. Now extend the awning all the way out. Remove that single screw, but DO NOT slide the sleeve off the arms. If you slide that sleeve off the spring will unwind with great force. Just grab the sleeve and rock it back and forth a bit. the side with the broken spring will wobble whereas the side with the good spring will not. Put the screw back in to secure the sleeve and go order a replacement spring from Amazon. If you decide to have someone else do the work you will have the spring ready to go.
opnspaces 01/02/21 09:41am Tech Issues
RE: Lifting my class C

Looking at your last picture I think the first and easiest way to gain clearance is to remove the spacers between the rollers and the frame. It sure looks like the bolt holes are lined up the same. As long as the rollers still keep the hitch of the ground you might gain just enough clearance that you need. And it's completely free to boot. But, check carefully that raising the rollers does not allow something else like the drain pipe to start dragging.
opnspaces 01/02/21 09:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

Here's your pictures https://i.imgur.com/3WiAoF5l.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. https://i.imgur.com/zeGsHw8l.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image.
opnspaces 12/31/20 10:04am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

Hi Nomadist welcome to the forums. \ One problem you're going to find is that any added wheels or rollers will further decrease your ground clearance. Have you tried entering driveways at a 30 - 45 degree angle instead if straight on? This may buy you some clearance as one wheel can start lifting the coach before the hitch in the center hits. Look under at the mounting point of the springs to the rear axle. If you have leaf springs and if they sit on top of the axle you can easily add a spacer to gain some height. Air bags in the rear will help as well/ But make sure they are ones that you can adjust from the drivers seat.
opnspaces 12/31/20 09:55am Class C Motorhomes
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