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 > Your search for posts made by 'phemens' found 110 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Odd Part

I replaced those plastic runners on my slides because mine had broken. Your local RV place should have them in stock.
phemens 06/18/20 11:17am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Replace Norcold N611RT with residential - models?

So, I got into the 'doing' part today and removed the Norcold N611RT. Went very smoothly, no issues at all. Measured my entry door and was very pleasantly surprised to see that I have 28" of clearance on width without removing the door frame, so it looks like the Norcold and the new fridge will go through no problem. That was my biggest concern, I guess I should have measured the entry door first, would have avoided a lot of 'thinking'. Now that the fridge is out, true measurements are 23 1/2" width on trim, 24 1/2" inside width, 60" height (removing spacer panel above old fridge) and 24 1/5 depth - this means the new fridge will stick out by about 4". Not a bad compromise to double fridge capacity!
phemens 06/12/20 09:10am Tech Issues
RE: Diverticulitis

I had a bad case of it a few years ago and a few flare ups since. As mentioned, change in diet is your best long term solution. I lost 25 lbs after the first incident and I think that was a big factor in not having reoccurrences. I don’t avoid any specific foods but mostly cutting out carbs (reducing but not eliminating) seems to help for me.
phemens 06/12/20 07:33am RVing with Disabilities and General Health Issues
RE: Mixing solar panels

No space constraints for sure. If not tracking then arrays that I can easily access to keep clean. I have a whole education on home solar ahead of me ;)
phemens 06/10/20 02:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer legs

Looks like an exercise in frustration when setting up. I can only imagine - first the stress in backing in to the site, then trying to get these legs all lined up, level and not toppling over. My marriage says 'no thanks'!
phemens 06/10/20 06:48am Travel Trailers
RE: Mixing solar panels

Having your own land like that lets you park so you can tilt the panels South. The stick house can be built with the roof slanting the right way too. At our seasonal off grid, I beat that by using a ground based solar set that I could aim, so it didn't matter which way the trailer was parked. You want the fridge on the North side, the panels tilted South, and the awning on the sunny side. Of course your RV will have the fridge on the wrong side! Plan for the house is to have the solar array on a tracking mount to follow the sun. Boss has dictated that the house will be build to consider view first, practicality 2nd ;)
phemens 06/09/20 06:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Mixing solar panels

IMO you have plenty of solar panels. 1100 watts+. Solar panels don’t “power” fridges. Panels and controllers charge batteries. With adequate batteries you can power a residential fridge. Indeed, do you have enough battery? Explains why those off grid home with Tesla solar panels as sole energy source. have the fridge-sized. lithium batteries. Short answer is yes - I have 6x100 A/H LifePO4, which gives me 525 usable A/H (one of the batteries is rated as 'true 100 A/H', or really 125).
phemens 06/09/20 06:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Mixing solar panels

Pianotuna, why do you suggest the compressor retrofit? One of the motivations to move to residential is that I can get 40% more fridge space in the same real estate. I imagine the retrofit would end up costing roughly the same? 40% more fridge space would be useful--but likely that means doing wood work. In my case it would mean loosing two storage drawers and that sort of space is always at a premium. Hence retro fit for me. Just make sure that what ever fridge you purchase has a Danfoss compressor, preferably one that can run on 12 volts. That way you eliminate those pesky inverter losses. In my condo, I'm using 4.3 kwh per day for all electrical needs. That is a bit of a swindle as I don't directly pay for space heating nor water heating (costs are hidden in the condo fees). That number included 48 hours of air conditioning (triple mini split with just one evaporator running). This time of year, I could manage on your 900 watts of panels. For your "off grid" home, I'd seriously consider SiO2 lead acid batteries as they can be used and charged down to -40. They are about 1/2 the price of Li. 2800 cycles to 50% or 1500 cycles to 80% discharge. I'd size the bank based on 5 days of no sun to 80% discharge. The only disadvantages of SiO2 appears to be weight and footprint. They are about 10% heavier than a lead acid and a similar size--but in a fixed install that should not matter, and being to store them in an unheated shed, external to living quarters, appeals to me. They are sold in Canadian dollars. We're probably 5 years away from building the house, so hopefully we'll benefit from some advances in battery technology (but I won't hold my breath). For the switching of the Norcold to electric, mine is a 2 way, and I won't be there to do it on a daily basis, so that wouldn't work for me. Based on the average draw of a 12CF residential energy star fridge, it would draw down a max of 80-90 A/H per day, which in worst case with zero solar would give me 3-4 days on batteries alone, which would be pretty acceptable for my use case.
phemens 06/09/20 06:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Mixing solar panels

It is all a compromise and scenario dependent, but it was no good with a 120v only fridge in our case for off-grid and no generator time for more than a few days. It was too much of a nail-biter if we got enough sun and the weather keeps changing around here. Takes the fun out of the whole thing if all you do is worry about the fridge and if the weatherman is lying again :( . It was so great to get back to having a propane fridge. OTOH that can't really be run on 120v off grid, taking 34 amps via inverter while it is cycled to on. So it stays on propane while off-grid. Getting more propane is easy in our situation, so that's that. We toodle around sight- seeing a lot so it is no problem shopping for more food to re-stock instead of having more fridge space. Everything is a compromise for what suits your own situation of course. Agreed, I am having the same worry with the propane. I've had a couple of experiences where we came back to the RV and found the fridge off due to propane running out. We've purchased a large tract of land where we'll eventually build a home, but for the time being we'll park the RV there, and it's far enough away (2hr drive) that visits need to be planned. I realize I'm using a sledgehammer to drive a nail (i.e. we could shut off the fridge and restart when back on site, etc), but that's just how my brain is wired! It's also good practice for our future build which will be completely off-grid.
phemens 06/09/20 07:41am Tech Issues
RE: Mixing solar panels

Yeah, that's what I figured, I will probably go with a 270w panel which is the closest I can get to the 250w in my area, difference in amperage is negligible. Eventually I could add more solar on the property for other uses and channel it in for the fridge if needed. I don't really use much A/C up north, but if we do go south we'd bring along the generator. I like to stay off grid as much as possible. Pianotuna, why do you suggest the compressor retrofit? One of the motivations to move to residential is that I can get 40% more fridge space in the same real estate. I imagine the retrofit would end up costing roughly the same?
phemens 06/09/20 05:48am Tech Issues
RE: Mixing solar panels

i do have a spare old 30A MPPT lying around, forgot about that (an old tougher than nails Rogue MPT-3024). That's an idea! More work but less $ and more flexibility for another panel. Not worried about not enough sun, with the batteries I figure I'd be good to run the fridge for a few days without much of a problem, more looking for enough wattage to quickly bring them back up when there is. EDIT: on 2nd thought, looking at the Rogue's charging profile it doesn't seem well suited to LifePO4 batteries, no way to disable absorption phase...
phemens 06/08/20 08:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Basic Questions on Solar Install

Agreed on the cut-off switch between the panels and the MPPT. Something I added after but should have done right off the bat, almost lost an expensive controller before I did. Personally I would cry a little harder once and get bigger panels up front. I've never heard anyone complain that they had too much solar.
phemens 06/08/20 07:56pm Tech Issues
Mixing solar panels

Hope I don't confused anyone too much, I get muddled with all the numbers, I'm by no means proficient in this, so looking for advice. I currently have 2 solar arrays. One is 2x325w 72 cell panels in series feeding a Victron 100/50 MPPT. Not planning on touching that one. The other array is a single 250w 60 cell panel feeding a separate Victron 100/30 MPPT. Current total wattage is 900w. I have room on the roof for 1 more large panel that I was planning to wire in series with the single 250w panel. Ideally I would have preferred to avoid replacing the existing MPPT, but the max wattage for the 100/30 is 440w @ 12v. The unit is able to handle wattage above maximum, but it would be wasted (manual states "If more PV power is connected, the controller will limit input power."). So here's the question - if I stick with the 250w panel and add another one in series, then am I correct in assuming that I should stick as closely to the rated amperage of the installed panel (8.24A) with any new one (i.e. no point in going to a 300w panel)? The end objective is to add enough solar to reliably power a residential fridge and get off of propane. I have 600 A/H of LifePO4 (500 A/H usable). The primary consideration is not price (but is a secondary one), it is reliability of the system as we plan to leave the trailer at a remote location for extended periods and I don't necessarily want to worry about propane running out when we're away. Thanks for your input.
phemens 06/08/20 07:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Replace Norcold N611RT with residential - models?

Yes, absolutely. I'm a plan first, plan again then 'do' kind of guy... Another option is that I need to take the trailer in for servicing on that slide (it's sticking), so I could possibly arrange to have them swapped when the slide is off, then install the new unit properly later.
phemens 06/05/20 03:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Replace Norcold N611RT with residential - models?

Not a N611, but I did a conversion last year on my N811 which is the same width and depth as the 611. I went with a Whirlpool URB551WNGZ. I chose this unit because of its dimensions, low amp draw, and the fact that it had condenser coils on the back instead of coils and an fan on the bottom. It fit in the existing opening width and depth. I removed a drawer below my old N811 to obtain the extra height and to allow the fridge to sit directly on the floor. The cabinet is flush with the old fridge cutout but the doors stick out an extra 2". When I tore everything apart I had a few "what have I done" moments, but after everything was completed I don't think anyone would notice that it wasn't a factory install. height=403 width=302 Looks great! Thanks for the info, very reassuring.
phemens 06/05/20 11:56am Tech Issues
RE: Replace Norcold N611RT with residential - models?

Recently installed a second hand Norcold 6xx to replace the 1991 OEM Dometic that rusted out. Can't answer your question, but note the size of your RV doorway too. You can't necessarily put the fridge through by its narrowest aspect. Fridge door is one "issue". I had to take the whole RV door, frame and all, out of the RV to get the fridges out and in, and it was very tight at that. Once in, it was another struggle to get the fridge in place. Took all day with son's help. You have to figure it all out before getting the one out through the RV door, which way it should be oriented, and then the new one in so it can be put into its slot. One of those IQ tests you don't want to fail :( I have a very large window opposite the fridge in the slide, plan would be to remove it to do the swap (I have to reseal all the windows at some point anyway, so a good excuse)
phemens 06/05/20 11:55am Tech Issues
Replace Norcold N611RT with residential - models?

Looking to replace our Norcold N611RT propane fridge with a residential model. According to what I've found, rough opening dimensions are 52 7/8 in. (H) x 23 1/2 in. (W) x 24 in (D). Has anyone done it for this model and any suggestions for replacement model? I've found a couple, but the depth seems to be ~ 4 inches deeper (height is not a problem, I can cut in above & below if needed).
phemens 06/04/20 07:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Best AGM batteries

X2 on the Lithium batteries being easy to set up and maintain. I dropped mine in place of the huge heavy wet cells (210 lbs each!), same wiring. Few minutes to configure the charger/inverter and the solar controllers and that was it.
phemens 06/02/20 05:48am Tech Issues
RE: What's the Latest Solar Tech?

The concern with LifePO4 batteries in the cold is charging, not discharging. In fact they operate better than wet cell or AGM on discharge in the cold. I don't see why you'd need to bring them inside when it's cold. Mine spent the winter in the 5'er without a hitch. Just make sure not to try and charge them when it's too cold (I avoid this below 5C).
phemens 05/28/20 05:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Resealing the Edge of the Roof, Dicor, Eternabond, or Both?

Same here, went around all the edges of the roof with Eternabond, it comes halfway up from the gutter, 4" tape. 1st thing I do on any RV I get.
phemens 05/02/20 03:47pm Travel Trailers
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