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RE: Where can I find this RV?
They say it takes 3 RVs to get it right. We are on our 6th and still looking.
We currently have a 43ft 5th wheel. We thought it was perfect until we realize it doesnt fit in many places and there are a lot of things that break. So we are now looking to downsize.
I was wondering if anyone can point us to a Class C or B+ that has the following:
2020 or newer floorplan
28ft or less
True Queen or King (no weird folding or Murphy stuff)
Real Dinnette
Pantry
2 recliners
Decent outside storage
Decent size shower/bathroom
Can tow a 4500 lb Jeep
E450
Any ideas of what to look at would be appreciated. Does a floorplannlike that exists in a small MH?
Thank you
MC
Finding both a real dinette plus 2 recliners in a kindof small E450 based Class C that can also pull a 4500 lb. Jeep ... could be difficult.
Also, for the ultimate in coach structural strength and reliability of course no-slides would be the best.
Good luck!
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pnichols
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05/22/23 11:24am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast
Here's us driving out of a woods campsite alongside a river that has overflowed it's banks ... it probably takes a Ford or Chevy chassis under a Class C to provide this kind of stock ground clearance (we now have larger-than-stock-diameter tires on it for even more ground clearance):
That's very impressive, sounds like a good rig, I didn't know they could do crossings like that.
I got E450 Ford chassis. Cleareance isn't high, not much higher than my Toyota Camry, actually, because of just one certain low spot (exhaust manifold I think), plus generator exhaust pipe could be sitting higher. It's been very hard to buy a rig in good condition and low mileage, mine had low and gentle usage, was stored inside - I'm lucky to have found it - took me entire crazy adventure to get it out of Northeast during historic ice storm while towing my car behind it all night, never having towed anything before.
I constantly get compliments to my rig in random store parking lots, people want those rigs.
I'm being extra cautions and don't go anywhere where I have the slightest doubt about clearance. I did master very tight turns on narrow windy roads. I'm glad that I got class C, for me as a begginner is the best option overall. The tail starts sweeping up about halfway past the rear wheel. I just avoid questionable dips and the only time I tail-scraped, ironically, so far, was getting out of RV repair shop in Phoenix, AZ 3 months ago - !!
I carry roof shingles, rubber mats, shovel, carpet and 2x8 pieces in case I'd get stuck, also.
I managed to do all kinds of camping in low clearnace sedans over the last 15 years, so I know how to avoid problems.
I've been boondocking non-stop since mid-February, mostly in the deserts, trying to stick to flatter areas. In the real mountains, I guess can go to spots I already know about where I camped with a sedan, plus I use phone apps to find out non-high clearance spots. Apps are often not accurate, and I use topo and LIDAR maps to verify terrain.
Glad I didn't go over 26' - I was able to park in busy store parking lots and make turns to get out of bad roads, where a longer rig wouldn't be able to.
I've seen some camper vans for sale before I got my class C - it's awful to have to live in one, spaces are so tiny, except in summer when you can just tent-camp all the time and many of them don't have toilets or shower stall. A compact full-amenities trailer, may be "expedition" type trailer, with 4x4 truck would be the best option, I think, if I wanted to branch out into more off-roading.
In my earlier photo of us driving on a road that was flooded alongside a river - in our slideless E450 24 ft. Class C motorhome - was probably made safely possible not due to it's stock "ground clearance per se" that kept water out of the coach's floor area ... as the water was probably all around the differential, springs, driveshaft, shocks, etc..
What kept the coach dry was more likely the fact that our Class C was of a "basement" design: The coach floor starts about another 5-6 inches above the top of the E450's frame. This means that 1) there is a step-up from the cab floor to the coach floor, and 2) that the outside cabinets are quite tall, so as to provide good exterior storage volume.
The outside storage cabinets are all steel lined and have pretty solid rubber gasket sealed doors. A couple of the outside cabinets even have inclosed 5" tall storage areas starting at the top of their back walls that run laterally all the way across to the other side of the coach - in between the chassis frame and under the bottom of the coach flooring. This allows for outside, but still enclosed, storage of long items such as fishing poles and shovels.
FWIW, I'm a believer in increasing ground clearance via only using larger diameter tires - instead of keeping stock tires but then having the whole vehicle's structure being lifted above the axles ... which still leaves chassis running gear (differentials, driveshafts, shock ends, spring ends, etc.) exposed low to the ground.
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pnichols
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05/07/23 08:59pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Slideouts on a ClassC: How many?
We looked for about a year for a used Class C - before we unexpectedly found and bought a new 2005 Class C in early 2006.
We searched so long because of our list of requirements ... which the new 2005 one we bought in 2006 by pure luck ... just happened to satisfy. Since then I've always guessed that probably the new one we bought had sat on a dealer's lot unsold for one year because it DID NOT have slides!
We did not want slides for improved off-road reliability and overall ruggedness. Years before we had traveled around in remote desert areas in our 3/4 ton Dodge van home-built camper ... and in 2006 bought a Class C that could do the same.
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pnichols
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04/13/23 04:55pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Australian Earthcruiser working with GMC on a Hummer
One aspect of an EV RV that I have not read anything about yet is ... what would be the possibility of somehow using onboard - plus large but still portable - solar arrays to recharge the EV's battery bank?
I suppose it's possible, but it would have to be a large, robust array. Boondocking needs like cooking, lighting, heating and cooling would be constantly in competition with EV charging for available solar energy.
Lol, yeah recharging a 200kwh battery out in the bush is obviously not practical. So it’ll be good for local day/ short weekend trips from the owners $3M ski condo in Vail or Telluride up to Red n White or maybe Imogene pass. (none of the more difficult trails from either starting point are in the wheelhouse of an Uber expensive heavy large, long pickup truck. And it will be a great conversation piece at parties.
No chance of it being a real off roader or actual overlanding rig as the base weight of over 9klbs and lack of payload (1300lbs) mean at will have to be VERY sparsely appointed with “overlanding” gear. And no overweight occupants…lol.
As long as everyone realizes that this wont be a viable RV, or actually a RV at all, until rooftop tents on pickups or a truck bed with a couple hammocks and a backpacking tent are considered RVs…..
I mean, no one makes actual overlanding rigs out of pickups that have less payload and range than any half ton typical pickup.
Well, for recharging an EV PU camper, small EV Class B, or small EV Class C ... I wonder about how many 6-hours-of-high-sun days would it require to partially/fully recharge a 200kwh EV's battery bank using 16kw of solar power input out in the bush using a Rapid Roll "T" system that one tows along behind their RV?
https://renovagen.com/
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pnichols
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04/06/23 02:36pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Australian Earthcruiser working with GMC on a Hummer
This is pretty well from left field
"This collaboration will look to leverage EarthCruiser’s renowned engineering expertise in the overland and off-road vehicle development space,” said GM.
“GMC and EarthCruiser have come together in their shared vision to develop top-tier, zero-compromise adventure vehicles, leveraging EarthCruiser’s engineering technologies that have resulted in unique and innovative self-contained living habitats, while keeping capability and agility at the forefront."
Well Earthcruiser has factories in Wollongong Australia and Oregon. Very interesting to see what sort of EV Class C comes out of this collaboratio
Link from Jalopnik
Earthcruiser to work EV Hummer Expedituon Vehicle
An interesting read in the link above!
However, the author's remark ... "So you’re looking at, maybe 250 miles max range?" would concern me too, even for merely boondock camping in the U.S., let alone in Africa, Australia, etc..
Our E450 based small Class C has around only a 450 mile give-or-take range with it's 55 gallon fuel tank - and that to me is the bare minimum I feel comfortable with for merely U.S. use. Of course our MH also needs some of those 55 gallons to run the A/C and recharge it's house batteries - unlike the EV based vehicle in the article.
One aspect of an EV RV that I have not read anything about yet is ... what would be the possibility of somehow using onboard - plus large but still portable - solar arrays to recharge the EV's battery bank?
We could carry along more fuel in Jerry Cans if we wanted to, so to me another (huge) attraction of an EV RV (in addition to it's non-polluting) ... would be an ability to be "refueled" out in the middle of nowhere.
Assuming one can tow a relatively light weight trailer behind an EV RV, here's maybe one way an EV RV might be able to be recharged over and over again out in the middle of nowhere:
https://i.imgur.com/e6g4XPpl.jpg
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pnichols
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04/03/23 05:09pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Australian Earthcruiser working with GMC on a Hummer
This is pretty well from left field
"This collaboration will look to leverage EarthCruiser’s renowned engineering expertise in the overland and off-road vehicle development space,” said GM.
“GMC and EarthCruiser have come together in their shared vision to develop top-tier, zero-compromise adventure vehicles, leveraging EarthCruiser’s engineering technologies that have resulted in unique and innovative self-contained living habitats, while keeping capability and agility at the forefront."
Well Earthcruiser has factories in Wollongong Australia and Oregon. Very interesting to see what sort of EV Class C comes out of this collaboratio
Link from Jalopnik
Earthcruiser to work EV Hummer Expedituon Vehicle
An interesting read in the link above!
However, the author's remark ... "So you’re looking at, maybe 250 miles max range?" would concern me too, even for merely boondock camping in the U.S., let alone in Africa, Australia, etc..
Our E450 based small Class C has around only a 450 mile give-or-take range with it's 55 gallon fuel tank - and that to me is the bare minimum I feel comfortable with for merely U.S. use. Of course our MH also needs some of those 55 gallons to run the A/C and recharge it's house batteries - unlike the EV based vehicle in the article.
One aspect of an EV RV that I have not read anything about yet is ... what would be the possibility of somehow using onboard - plus large but still portable - solar arrays to recharge the EV's battery bank?
We could carry along more fuel in Jerry Cans if we wanted to, so to me another (huge) attraction of an EV RV (in addition to it's non-polluting) ... would be an ability to be "refueled" out in the middle of nowhere.
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pnichols
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04/03/23 12:12pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Just added new tires...
Phil, do you have an undercarriage spare tire ?
Im wondering if the larger diameter tire will fit within that spare tire housing and security mechanism.
Bob
Bob, my Itasca Class C came from Winnebago with a spare tire mounted in the rear up between the frame members - just like with a pickup truck - using the same support mechanism it came with. I don't recall if the frame is the stock Ford E450 frame for only a 24ft. Class C, or an extension to the frame installed by Winnie.
The full spare tire 215/85/R16 size that I changed to still fits right in that same spot between the frame members with the spare inflated to 80lbs. of air pressure, which results in a tire diameter increase of about 1.2 inches.
The 215/85/R16 Michelin tires I now use have the same load rating as the 225/75/R16 Michelin tires that came stock on our E450 Class C. Also note that dually 215/85/R16 tires have wider spacing between their sidewalls for better air flow cooling and less chance of tire sidewall rubbing in rough-surface or air-down road situations.
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pnichols
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03/20/23 02:01pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Just added new tires...
215/85/16
Thanks for you correction above (or below) to my post!!
I now use Michelin 215/85/R16 size tires on our Class C for more ground clearance.
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pnichols
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03/15/23 04:21pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Just added new tires...
My 2012 24' Nexus Class C {with 75,000 miles} was due for some new tires and I finally pulled the trigger this morning. I have been shopping all over the internet for 4 Michelin Agilis Cross Climates - 225 75 R16's. I have three Cross Climates that are just over 2 years old, two on the front and one on the rear. The other three older Michelin rears are 5.3 years old and the spare is older than dirt.
How I ended with tires of mixed ages is a long story involving having one of the my 5.5 year old Michelin's grenading doing $4,181 in damage - it literally blew the wheel well up through the bottom of the coach. I now begin shopping for replacements when they get to 5 years old but admittedly Arizona is a tough environment on tires.
The plan was to put 4 new CC's on the rear, the fronts are fine and my remaining 2 year old CC replaces my spare. The nearest Discount Tire shop is 70 miles down the mountain adding $50 in fuel to the cost of the tires {$1,280 + $50} so after getting their quote I tried shopping closer to home. The local Big O came in at $1,332 and Firestone won't even look at a motorhome.
I have had great service using Jeff Cory Ford here in Payson dealing with their tire shop manager Jeff, so gave him a call. He assured me would meet or beat any other quote but there was no need as he came in at $1,245. When I asked he assured me that the tires would be "Fresh" and he did not disappoint as their DOT codes came in at 0123.
The two young guys tasked with my job earned their money as retrieving/replacing the spare from its mount under the rear of the coach is a PITA but the rest of the install went smoothly. Mounted, balanced and torqued to 175# my coach is good to go for another 3 years when I will replace the fronts. I like having all four of the duallies matched.
The coach has a GVWR of 11,500# and I run near or at that number most of the time as I often tow a 2,500# cargo trailer. I run the fronts at 60 psi and the rears at 65 which gives me a nice cushion above and beyond their rated {Load Range E} capacity was well as a very smooth ride with excellent handling.
Winter hopefully will be loosening its grip soon and I hope to get out to Pahrump towing our Can Am Spyder for some nice day rides exploring Death Valley later this month.
Here is a shot of our rig:
https://i.imgur.com/NOnqfXGl.jpg
This is our Can Am Spyder... one seriously fun Toad:
https://i.imgur.com/qlozcCWl.jpg
:C
You made a good choice in tires!
When I replace I'll go the same route, except I'll probably go with the 215/85/R16 size in order to pick up a little more ground clearance for offroad use.
(I currently have 6 of Michelin's predecessor tire to the Cross Climate on our 24 ft. Class C.)
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pnichols
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03/14/23 07:49pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast
Here's us camped with our Ford E450 based 24 ft. Class C out on the far side of beyond in Death Valley ... notice that the coach body starts out sweeping immediately upwards from the rear wheels back so as to minimize tail dragging when starting on side road or parking lot upgrades:
https://i.imgur.com/q4ri0x9l.jpg
Here's us driving out of a woods campsite alongside a river that has overflowed it's banks ... it probably takes a Ford or Chevy chassis under a Class C to provide this kind of stock ground clearance (we now have larger-than-stock-diameter tires on it for even more ground clearance):
https://i.imgur.com/95o2ttvl.jpg
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pnichols
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01/21/23 11:21am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast
For what it's worth, the picture below shows the non-slide floor plan of our 24 ft. Class C that's built on a Ford chassis that provides decent ground clearance ... along with 55 gallons of fuel, a 4000 watt built-in generator, and an 18 gallon propane tank.
It's wheel wells are not under the dinette, they're under the refrigerator area and galley area. All of the areas under the dinette benches are available for storage, so the dinette table and two benches can be completely removed to make room for one or two full recliners. Installing only one recliner in that area would make room for a nice table right beside it to eat on, hold a laptop, hold books, etc., when camped. Also note the stock rotating and sliding lounge chair opposite the dinette area.
One can sleep in the rear corner bed, and use all of the large overhead cab area to provide a huge amount of storage. Seven(7) outside storage areas provide additional storage.
https://i.imgur.com/Jjpk8Phl.gif]https://i.imgur.com/Jjpk8Phl.gif
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pnichols
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12/19/22 11:03am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast
Ann ... are you going to be traveling/camping alone or will there be two of you?
The length you get should not be determined only by what's allowed in the campsites you may want to use. It should also - and probably more importantly for safety and emergencies - be determined by the type of roads you need to use to get to the campsites.
Myself and my wife have RV'd for 17 years in a 24 ft. Class C with no slides, and have been completely satisfied with it. We take it carefully on dirt/gravel roads to explore and camp as needed.
If it's just a small Class C for yourself, here's what I would recommend:
- Choose a slideless model to maximize overall coach reliability.
- Choose a model with high stock ground clearance ... this probably means being built on the Ford or Chevy full size van cutaway chassis instead of the various smaller van chassis such as the Ford Transit, RAM ProMaster, Mercedes Sprinter, etc.. These smaller chassis can be "lifted" of course, but their ground clearance is not very good when left in stock form.
- For a good feeling of "room/comfort" in a small Class C, get a model with BOTH ... either a separate lounge chair from the dinette and/or cab chairs that can be retrofitted to swivel arond to face the coach, PLUS coming stock with a standard dinette seating/table area.
- After purchase have the dinette seating area retrofitted with two full sized tilt-back/foot rest lounge chairs with a small table between them.
- Finally, if it's only yourself living in this small Class C ... sleep in the rear bed and use the overhead cab bed for a whole bunch of storage space.
When combineed with a built-in generator fueled by the main chassis fuel tank, a large-as-possible solar panel array on the roof combined with lithium coach batteries, a good heating system, a large enough air conditioning system, and a satellite based Internet access system ... you have a small enough Class C to access most campsites in the U.S. while at the same time having all the comforts of home out in the middle of nowhere.
P.S. For improved access to even more small/intimate/remote camping areas in a larger variety of weather conditions ... after purchase you can have a four wheel drive system added to it.
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pnichols
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12/18/22 07:38pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Portable Solar Generators
FWIW: Bluetti is about to have ready for orders a couple of sodium-ion based portable power stations ... the Bluetti NA300 & B480. Do a further search beyond this link on sodium-ion battery technology - and notice the estimated recharge times:
https://www.bluettipower.com/pages/ces-2022
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pnichols
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12/12/22 01:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Portable Solar Generators
Great for a tent, pnichols. It would do bacon and eggs for breakfast, with a NuWave induction cooker limited to 700 watts. It is attractively priced.
The location my condo is in has infrastructure that is 70 years old. There are a lot of power outages. Every time I look at these units I find I could roll my own more cheaply, for the capacity I want. Add that to a 1000 watt psw inverter that I carry as a back up which would serve me well at the Condo.
So far, I've managed on my laptop battery and a couple of batteries intended for cell phone charging. I do have a boost pack for starting the car that I could use with the 1000 watt inverter. So my costs to have back up would be nearly zero.
My little (16 lb.) 700W Bluetti is primarily for a CPAP machine back in the RV's rear corner bed when we're drycamping. Plus of course it will be a convenient source of 120V AC and 12V DC whenever we need it in portable form. Also, it will temporarily power my 120V battery charger when the battery charger is set to it's "50 amp starting mode" for emergency engine starting via boosting of a partially discharged chassis battery. Of course note that 50 amps of DC is only around 600 watts of total power ... well within the limits of my little 700 watt (1400 watts surge) Bluetti 16 lb. power station.
FWIW: We kindof live "in the boondocks" and have some power outages year-round. I have a 4400 watt contractor type generator wired into our home's main power panel to keep the whole house running (except for the electric water heater and our home's main heat pump system) during power outages.
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pnichols
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12/12/22 11:08am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Portable Solar Generators
Hi,
Be my guest. Spend double the money for 1/2 the capacity.
Don ... I spent $400 for my 537 watt-hour Bluetti EB55 using an ultra-safe LiFePO4 lithium battery bank that can be discharged to near zero and can tolerate 2500 or more charge cycles. 537 watt-hours about equals a 45 AH LA or AGM battery. Built into the EB55 is a 700 watt inverter with 1400 watt surge capability, an MPPT solar panel controller, DC down-converters for two kinds of USB ports and a 12v port, plus a 3-mode wide area night light (2 brightness levels and an SOS flasher). All of this is covered by a 2-year warranty and mounted in a convenient little carrying case.
How much cheaper could I have DIY'd the same ... with each part in it warranted for 2 years?
I used to be an electrical engineer, so I probably could have put one together - but should I have?
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pnichols
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12/12/22 01:30am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Portable Solar Generators
Costco has the Goal Zero Yeti 3000 watt $500 off just a few days. At 3000 watts, how many 12 volt 100 amp RV batteries would that be equal to? 3000/1200= 2.5 batteries??? Curious minds want to know.
I'd recommend against this model, as it's battery type is Li-ion NMC.
Everything I read about lithium batteries points towards the superior lithium battery type designated as LiFeO4.
LiFeO4 lithium batteries tolerate a much larger number of recharge cycles before their end of life, and they are more stable when it comes to high temperatures occuring from any internal shorts or the real dangerous situation called thermal runaway.
As far as I can tell, the only disadvantage of LiFeO4 type lithium batteries is they are a bit heavier than the Li-ion NMC type for any given capacity size.
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pnichols
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12/10/22 01:01pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Portable Solar Generators
First, I hate the term "solar generator". It's a fancy battery with with a battery management system, a battery monitor, an inverter and a solar charge controller. Solar panels are almost always an extra cost option.
Second, while neatly and conveniently packaged and easy to use, they WAY OVER PRICED !
Hmmm .... well engineered and well built self-contained ready-to-go stuff is always more expensive than DIY stuff.
I guess that's why the DW and myself:
1) Bought raw land
2) built most of our house ourselves
3) did the plumbing, electrical, and HVAC ourselves,
4) ran the outdoor pipes and power from the house to the well,
5) and built the interior of our first van camper.
.... to save money.
I like to keep the above kind of projects to a minimum these days. :B
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pnichols
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12/10/22 12:02pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Portable Solar Generators
Well ... I paid ~$400 for the Bluetti on a Black Friday sale:
1) Instead, I would have to have installed/wired a 12V DC recepable back by the rear bed, which would have been a real pain (I have higher payback things to do with my time).
2) In addition to 1) above, I would have needed to buy a 12V DC to 20V DC upconversion adapter (medical grade - for failure-proofness at ~$130) to power the CPAP machine.
3) Sometimes our family group campouts have their outside evening camp fires too far away from our rig to run the long extension cords from our rig necessary for powering heated throw-blankets for us.
4) The DW and myself didn't know what other Christmas gift(s) to buy for ourselves, anyway. :B
P.S. #1: So far during my in-home testing of the 537 Wh Blueitti it has powered a CPAP machine for 4 nights - while consuming only around 35% of it's LiFeO4's stored energy.
P.S. #2: It's ultra-safe LiFeO4 lithium battery electrochemistry is way safer than me trying to make my own more dangerous-to-use-in-confined-spaces Lithium-ion, or LA, or AGM portable concoction.
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pnichols
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12/09/22 02:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Portable Solar Generators
The average RVer already has a sizeable battery bank in his RV, along with several different ways of recharging it.
Why would he/she not want to use it?
I recently bought a nicely portable Bluetti EB55 (537 Wh) 16 lb., LiFeO4 battery technology "solar generator" at Black Friday pricing ($100 off) for use when we are dry camping in our 24 ft. Class C. It's LiFeO4 built-in batteries supposedly are good for 2500 or more recharge cycles (this cycle life is way beyond the older technology plain old Lithium-ion technology batteries that are in other solar generators, cell phones, etc.).
I DID NOT buy any solar panels to go with this Bluetti unit, so I have to charge it (our RV has no solar panels) using one of four other ways when drycamping - charge it via 12V DC outlets in the coach fed directly by the coach's two 115 AH AGM batteries, or charge it via 12V DC outlets in the coach fed indirectly by the RV's built-in fairly quiet Onan generator, or charge it via 120V AC outlets in the coach fed directly by hookups or the Onan generator. (I also carry along in our RV an ultra-quiet Honda 650 watt portable generator - that adds to the Bluett's recharging mix when drycamping.)
Here's why I bought it: 1) To the power a CPAP machine way in the back corner bed when drycamping, since there are no 12V DC receptacles back there and my RV does not have an inverter to power it's 120V AC outlets (these are back by the rear bed) when dry camping without a generator being used (the CPAP machine can be powered via 12V DC or 120V AC) and, 2) we can use the Bluetti to conveniently power electric 12V DC or 120V AC throw-blankets over us when outside sitting around our propane firepit on chilly evenings!
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pnichols
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12/08/22 10:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Can I charge the house battery with the engine alternator?
Which solenoid did you buy? I'd like to replace mine
Here's the Trombetta "Bear DC contactor" solenoid that I now use in our Class C that connects the coach batteries to the engine alternator system - note that the one I use is the 2nd one down in the chart, rated for 225 amps continuous duty, and is the version with silver contact material. It is not inexpensive, but IMHO on-the-road-reliability should be very high on one's list:
https://www.trombetta.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/bear-family.pdf
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pnichols
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11/28/22 10:18pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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