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RE: Transferring fresh water when dry camping

A topic near and dear to my heart....more water. With my 24ft C, I am almost stymied. I carry 30 gallons on-b0ard. A bladder would be room. I even considered putting one on my roof. I have just acquired two 5 gallon jugs that will fit in the tub and fold up to nothing once emptied. For now, I lift and funnel, but I have ordered a cheap plastic drill driven impeller an in-line pump. We'll see. Gary Haupt Hi Gary! Have you ever crawled underneath and looked up between the driveshaft and the two frame members that run the length of the chassis on each side of the driveshaft? Maybe a large capacity long and narrow custom fresh water tank could be installed in some space there on the side of the driveshaft opposite the side with the long tail pipe. Of course the tank would be exposed - so to use it in freezing temperatures would not work - and perhaps a piece of steel sheeting should be installed on the bottom side of the tank to prevent any damage from road rocks. I read some time ago of a Class C owner who installed a 100 gallon or larger fresh water tank somewhere up underneath the coach like I describe. You also have to be sure the chassis has enough extra carrying capacity to handle the extra weight ... however all the water weight would be down low so it could actually result in a more stable and solid feeling when going down the road (as opposed to adding weight up high which makes for an undersirable higher center of gravity).
pnichols 05/02/21 10:32pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Tire Recommendations

Hi ScottM, If your rig is 29 feet or longer with one or more slide outs, you might want to consider those extra-capacity E-rated tires. It's like 500 pounds more per tire which means 2000 more pounds for the rear axle and 1000 more pounds on the front. But there is such a thing as "too much". A shorter lighter rig with over-rated tires translates to a more harsh ride. Just about everyone would agree that the continuous earth-quaking when being driven is undesirable. You don't want to make it unnecessarily worse. For our 24 foot (2007 E350-DRW chassis) rig with no slide out, I am buying new tires in the next few weeks. I decided on Michelin Agilis CrossClimate 115/112R. Discount tire gave me a price on 6 for $1316 out the door. Our rig is 14 years old with 38,000 miles and still has the original tires in-part because we garage our rig. I had such a good experience with the original Michelin LTX tires that made no sense to try a different brand. I also like that they are "Made In USA". Ron ... I'm curious. Why are you going to have 115 tires put on you motorhome? Didn't it come stock with 225 tires on it like mine did ... along with so many other E350/E450 based motorhomes? (I retrofitted our Class C with 115 tires in order to provide slightly more ground clearance.)
pnichols 04/29/21 02:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Transferring fresh water when dry camping

I'm very interested in this discussion ... as I've been searching for a reliable, hand-held pump powered by a 12V cord - that I can merely plug into one of the RV's 12V outlets - so that I can transfer fresh water from a plastic 5 gallon jug on the ground up into the RV's outside fill spout. I'd buy at least two of the right kind of pump - one for fresh water and another for gasoline (i.e. to fill the portable generator's tank from a 5-gallon jug). The common cheap ones available via Amazon don't hack it - I've tried and they're junk. Does anyone have an online buying link to a decent 12V pump with a long cord that terminates in a 12V cigarette lighter male plug?
pnichols 04/28/21 01:07pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

Here is a class C built on a F350 chassic. Not E350. Looks interesting. 2003 Majestic. I assume Four Winds? Have they made that model beyond 2003? That style of Class C in the link above may make it a bit easier to work on the truck engine ... but when camped how does the driver and/or passenger swing slightly into any area between the two cab seats with their feet and then stand up so as to be able to walk back direcly into the coach without leaving the RV? That is one of the great things about a van body being used for a Class C with the cab's roof cut away under the cabover and the cabover bed folded away -> being able to rise and go back into the coach directly from the cab. This arrangement even permits the passenger to carefully and occasionally while traveling go back and get something in the coach or go back to the bathroom. Being able to do the above is priceless to us in our van chassis based Class C.
pnichols 04/26/21 12:11am Class C Motorhomes
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

I have three VCRs in good working order. I'll be able to watch pre-recorded tapes. VCRs ... wow good for you! I have one in our home entertainment center too and some precious old tapes for it - including a 3-tape collectors set of the original versions of the Star Wars episodes as shown in theaters when they were released way back when! Do you take one ot them along in an RV? If so, I'm curious - what amount of current does the VCR draw from your coach batteries when camping without hookups?
pnichols 04/22/21 05:07pm Technology Corner
RE: Thor Majestic 23A

Chevy vs Ford chassis will make a difference on how it handles dirt roads. In what way will it make a differance if it is a Ford vs Chevrolet? This should be interesting. It's simple whether Ford or Chevy is the best chassis to be under a motorhome's coach: Which one is best is the one that has the most facilities throughout the areas where you plan to travel - that will do unexpected repairs when on your RV trips." It's a no-brainer. :) P.S. I chose a Ford E450 to be transporting our Class C's coach.
pnichols 04/22/21 12:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tire Recommendations

Since we never know what kind of weather conditions we're going to wind up in when traveling in our Class C, I use combination mud and snow tires on our RV all the time. I would NEVER have the smooth, highway tread type tires on our rig. Also since tire brands are so competitive, I figure that the more expensive tires are probably "better made" .. . or they wouldn't be around long. So far we have only used a couple of different designs of Load Range E Michelin tires on our Class C - they've been quiet, had great traction in a wide variety of situations, and seem to wear forever (with 60K-70K mileage tread wear warranties).
pnichols 04/21/21 11:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: full size corner bed vs queen corner bed

We have a small slideless (24ft.) Class C - with a rear corner queen bed and an overhead cab queen bed. My wife has a bad back so she gets the entire rear corner bed for wiggle-room and I use the overhead cab bed. Being the only one in it, she has no problem getting out of the corner bed as needed using a small stool at the foot of it. As regards "making up" the corner bed, we don't make up our whole corner bed - we just keep a white fitted sheet on a foam topper that lies on top of the corner bed mattress. The mattress is not covered at all, so sure ... you see the blue sides of the underlying corner bed mattress all the time, but we're camping ... not staging a house for potential buyer walks-throughs. I see no other way - in a small Class C with no slide - to have a full time available almost-queen-size bed on the main floor other than via a corner bed configuration.
pnichols 04/21/21 11:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: recommendations for class C for overnights at ski resort

The situation and configuration in our 2005 24' Class C is about identical to what bobndot described their earlier post above. We don't have a 4X4 setup on our Class C, and it doesn't even have limited slip internals in it's rear, and only, differential. However, note that a Class C has terrific traction in it's rear drive wheels due to all the weight that they're carryinig back there ... i.e. way more traction than that of my open differential 2WD Mustang that - years ago - I used to take on the slippery roads and into the ski slope parking lots in Utah ... very carefully.
pnichols 04/20/21 11:37pm Class C Motorhomes

We don't have solar, and only sometimes do we use one or the other of our two generators for sunless battery charging. I have found that what works well for quiet and fairly fast charging of our 230 AH AGM coach battery bank is to merely idle the main Ford engine a bit and let it's alternator do the charging. There's no vibration in the coach during V10 engine idling and it can barely be heard just outside the coach. This works very well, and from what I'm reading in the forums, seems similar in principle to certain modern Class B/C RVs using autostart idling of the main engine for non-solar fast charging of the coach batteries -> except in my approach with our 2005 Class C I have to manually start the engine to do it. If necessary, we can maintain a slight air pressure inside the coach interior so as to keep any tail pipe fumes from entering.
pnichols 04/20/21 11:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Locking Fuel Door (E450 Chassis)

A guess the above concern is one more reason why we "travel like a turtle" via traveliing in a small Class C that is our home right with us all the time and everywhere. Wow ... drilling a hole in a gas tank to steal gas has got to be an act of dangerous desperation.
pnichols 04/17/21 11:58am Class C Motorhomes
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

I cut the cord years ago. No cable. Couldn't justify the high cost cable companies charge. Just Wifi. Anything I can access or store on my laptop or NAS I can stream to TV. I do have a roof antenna for local broadcasts but don't watch them very often. I'm about 50 miles from broadcast antennas and pick up about 50 channels although most are in Spanish. I do subscribe to Netflix, Sling and Amazon Prime plus a ton of freebie channels thru Roku. Not sure what I'll do if prices go way up for those. How do you digitally record movies at home off Netflix, Amazon Prime, and free Roku channels so that you can take a stick full of them with you on RV trips to play back and watch on a monitor/TV when camping?
pnichols 04/16/21 10:30am Technology Corner
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

FWIW, I have around 30 full length movies stored on my smartphone and I have a USB-C to HDMI adapter so as to be able to connect the smartphone to a monitor or TV screen via an HDMI cable ... for use on our home big screen or in the RV. (I don't waste a good movie by trying to watch it on a dinky smartphone screen.)
pnichols 04/14/21 12:49pm Technology Corner
RE: Overhang construction

My Itasca has corner seams on the cabover exterior sidewalls and the cabover exterior underside seams, which I caulk periodically. The main joint between the top of the cabover where it joins the fiberglass coach roof is not a typical joint at all - as the top edge of the exterior cabover wall material is tucked up underneath a lip portion of the roof that extends past the top edge of the exterior cabover wall material by around 3 inches - then this whole area is covered by a fiberglass cap that could/should be kept caulked or Eternabonded (just like with the one piece fiberglass cabover front caps where they join the coach roof). The single piece coach fiberglass roof of our Itasca has about a 3" rolled over edge all along the sides - with the top edges of the two coach sidewalls tucked up underneath the rolled-over edge - for absolute blockage of water intrusion into the coach sidewalls vertically along the tops of the sidewalls. Unfortunately I do have a forward facing cabover window - which had to be replaced, once, 2500 mi. from home when a rock from an approaching truck broke the glass - which was not safety glass - so it shattered into more or less a million pieces, which fell down on top of us while we were driving. "NOW" - I have a special plastic overlay coating on the glass of the forward facing window so as to maybe protect it a bit from rocks! (BTW, I tried applying 3" Eternabond all around the cabover forward facing window frame, but it didn't work because Eternabond doesn't seem to bond to glass.) By the way ... I wonder how much cabover leaking is actually due to failed seals of the cabover running lights ... instead of the forward facing window frame seals?
pnichols 04/14/21 12:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

I think et left the building. Yep, possibly ... for some folks enough knowledge is enough, and for others all the knowledge they can get is their goal. :C
pnichols 04/13/21 12:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Overhang construction

Below is a link to the Winnebago brochure for our 2005 Itasca Class C. The last page shows the layout of the internal aluminum framing within the coach walls. Looking closely to see the aluminum framing of the cab overhead, I do not see how the cab overhead structure is going to move up or down, or left or right ... in any motions separate to those of the coach's main living area structure. Hence, how is the cab overhead going to get jostled around any more, or differently, than the whole coach when traveling? (However, a forward facing cabover window is really going to get blasted by water when traveling in a rain storm - along with the cabover clearance lights!)
pnichols 04/13/21 11:29am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

Hmmmm ... I wonder on Class C rigs if mechanics can merely remove the front wheels and then remove the metal liner on the engine side of the either wheel well (I think this sheet metal liner is bolted in/on) to easily get at the sides of the engine? I had the exhaust manifold bolts replaced on our Class C's V10 engine and sure wish I'd asked the mechanic if the above is how he got access to those V10 manifold bolts.
pnichols 04/13/21 10:08am Class C Motorhomes
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

You download movies to your tablet or laptop. Or, you can even download them to Google Play Hmmm ... how do I download Netflix, or Acorn, or Britbox, or Xfinity movies unto my laptop??? BTW, I still own and occasionally use a VHS player attached to our big screen at home. VHS images get converted to 4K when we do this. The player would suck a lot of power for RV use, however. Are we assuming that the Internet will never suffer a wide area failure? I predict that day will come, and when it does - a lot us drycamping in our bug-out RVs will wish we had brought along plenty of DVD movies and a player for them. :)
pnichols 04/11/21 10:16pm Technology Corner
RE: Boondocking Resources - Tips, Tricks, and Information

Not sure if this tip has been mentioned before, but here it is: if you are boondocked in a really remote spot, take a GPS waypoint in case you decide to go to town and then return to your campsite after dark. Don't ask me how I figured this out. Dan ... I assume you use Avenza! ;) (I would use my good old Garmin nuvi 3550LM to do the same thing.) BTW, when we boondock there's no going into town allowed, unless it's an emergency - in which case we'd hit the SOS button on our inReach Mini. We only go to a boondock spot fully stocked up just as if we were on an expedition in Outer Mongolia (kindof :B).
pnichols 04/10/21 10:11pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Thor Majestic 23A

Hi there- Any thoughts or comments on 2015 Thor Majestic 23a please? Were they made specifically for Cruise America? They seem to differ from 23U. How do they drive on dirt roads? We are looking at one for sale by a local rental company. 111,000 miles. Thanks for any input! We don't have a Thor Class C. Ours is 24 foot Itasca (made by Winnebago) Class C that we take slowly and carefully on dirt roads. Remember that unlike much lighter 4X4 "offroad" vehicles, a Class C has way better dry surface traction on it's rear drive tires due to the raw weight back there. Of course on wet/slippery road surfaces, both a Class C and 4X4 vehicles can slip and slide around, plus get buried up to their axles. We have installed larger than stock diameter tires on our Class C in order to provide more ground clearance on dirt roads. We cross road washout areas as much as possible at an angle in order to prevent rear tail dragging. It's easy to keep the interior clean when on dirt roads: Keep the cab heating/cooling system set to "interior" air flow so only inside air is recirculated - with no outside air being drawn in. Keep all windows and roof vents closed - except for one roof vent with a reversible vent fan in it. Set this fan to blow in on low speed. This sets up and maintains a slight pressure in the coach interior so that no road dust can enter any small holes and cracks anywhere - this works like a champ because (nearly) no outside air is actually brought in because everything is closed up. (What little air is actually brought in due to leakage out holes and cracks is clean air from up high above the roof.) The fan is merely "trying" to force air in, so what results is the maintaining of a slight amount of air pressure in the interior at all times.
pnichols 04/09/21 12:52am Class C Motorhomes
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