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 > Your search for posts made by 'portscanner' found 23 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: My New Flatbed Camper!!!

You’re correct that extending them too far will also cause problems when they are swung in. When they’re fully retracted, the pad at the bottom of the jack tubes come very close to the front Torklift tiedowns when they’re swung in. :):) Im not worried about problems when they are swung in, I am concerned about the stress when slung out. The longer you extend the jack away from the body of the camper, the more torque the weight of the tc can put on the mounting of the jack Also, given I am on a flatbed that is 9 feet long - the tiedowns only go to the bed where there is a rail to do a tiedown. Not using the frame mounted tie downs. In addition, with the 9 foot bed, the jack wont swing all the way in to the locking mechanism that is built into the hinge. I am temporarily using a strap to hold the jack in so it wont swing around while driving. I got an idea for an alternative method for securing it. Will share it if it works.
portscanner 10/05/20 02:41pm Truck Campers
RE: Surrounded By Sheep!

Two thoughts came to mind: 1. Lamb chops with mint Jelly 2. (insert lame political comment here) I know - both of the above were baaaaaaad, but at least you didnt get fleeced.
portscanner 10/03/20 07:23pm Truck Campers
RE: My New Flatbed Camper!!!

I would recommend these if your still looking for steps. yes the top loop can fold down out of the way :) I suggested a very similar solution and SWMBO shot it down as the fur campers would be be able to use it. As soon as I complete the solution SWMBO approved, I will be posting it here. Is that becouse you have the strap bar on side, what makes bed wider, than 8' ? Yup. Adds another 2-3 inches (dont remember the exact measurement) Thanks! Was wondering in another post if anyone had done this. Would you have any pic's of these extension plates? Thanks! Well, it should not be rocket surgery for someone named "Bert the Welder", I had a local machine shop cut me some steel the same thickness as the tabs on the jacks, 2 inches wide, 12 inches long (I think) and put 6 holes in it. I got some grade 8 bolts and put the jack back on. I wanted to make it as small as possible and still get the legs wide enough to get the truck underneath. There is enough stress on those swing out legs without sticking them out further with extensions. See below:
portscanner 10/03/20 07:11pm Truck Campers
RE: My New Flatbed Camper!!!

Congrats! That looks fantastic!!! How's getting the truck backed under? From the pic's, the legs almost look like they're touching the bed! Very toit! Given the storage room, I'm surprised more people don't go this route. leg clearance: Vertically - when i loaded it - I put 2 pieces of 2x8x12 under every jack to get me 3 more inches vertically Horizontally - even with the swing out hinges on the front jacks, I saw it would not clear the bed. I had a local machine shop create 2 plates that added one more inch of width on each side which gave me 3/4" on each side as I put the truck under the camper.
portscanner 10/03/20 11:13am Truck Campers
RE: Nothern Lite on a flatbed?

My dude, so many questions. Does the camper require an 8’ bed? How long is your flat bed? Do you have center of gravity issues? Is there a large space between your camper and your headache rack? Literally exactly what I want to do just Ford and Northern Lite. Those were several issues I had to address. The camper I have requires (at least) an 8 foot bed. Note I got a cab and chassis truck - which has a 9 foot bed. The rear axle is moved a foot further back away from the cab (than on a truck with an 8 foot bed.) Moving the axle back means the center of gravity of the TC will remain in front of the rear axle - where it belongs. If I am correct, the Northern Lite 10'2 is designed for an 8' bed so it should work on any truck with a 8 foot or longer bed that can handle the weight. Make sure the weight of the truck + the weight of the TC + the weight of your new flat bed + weight of all your "stuff" (i.e. fishing gear, dogs, food, beer, etc) does not exceed the GVWR of the truck. Please do your homework first before buying your truck. I recently acquired a Ford 2011 F-450 that had only a 13,300 GVWR and was 1000 lbs over the GVWR with the Lance loaded (but that is a story for a different time) Check and confirm how much room is under the cabover of the Northern Lite. I have heard that newer Ford cabs are taller than other trucks - but I dont have any written documentation to support that - just rumor. If you get a cab and chassis model like I did, you will have 12" between the front of the bed / headache bar and the front of your camper. I temporarily put some 2x4's in there to keep the camper from walking forward on the bed, but I am looking at building a frame from aluminum that will keep the camper from walking forward along with providing space for another fresh water tank. A note on tiedowns - the flatbed has a rail along the side. I used that in conjunction with Torklift "Original FastGun Turnbuckle .45- Polished S9527" Before you load the camper on the truck, verify the truck will fit between the front jacks. You might need front jack extensions. Thats about all I can think of at the moment. Let me know if you need any other information!
portscanner 10/02/20 08:01pm Truck Campers
RE: My New Flatbed Camper!!!

Not going for a TC Utility body? Cost? Weight + cost. the flatbed was $6400 plus tax and Amazon has some 4 foot toolboxes for $229. Got to check the measurements, but it looks like four of them (2 on each side) will fit perfect under the wings.
portscanner 10/02/20 06:48pm Truck Campers
RE: Nothern Lite on a flatbed?

See my new build here. The Hillsboro bed was $6500 plus tax. I am looking at some tool boxes from Amazon that we are planning on getting.
portscanner 10/02/20 06:41pm Truck Campers
RE: Crappyjacks

I agree with Mike. Also - double check all electrical connections - make sure the screws are tight on the wires. If any wire nuts are used, take the nuts off and examine the wire ends for corrosion. Inspect the plug that makes the connection from the Jack to the body of the camper. I had one of mine fail as water got into it and corroded the connection.
portscanner 10/02/20 06:27pm Truck Campers
My New Flatbed Camper!!!

Well, we got it all together! We got a new 2019 Dodge 4500 cab and chassis, a Hillsboro aluminum flatbed, Torklift Fast Guns, and a 2008 Lance 1181 We are looking at getting some tool boxes to put under the wings to add more storage More / larger pictures here.
portscanner 10/02/20 06:15pm Truck Campers
RE: Drilling hole in roof of Lance 1181

The spot you mark 99% will go between the lumber, so you have aluminium roof with 1/4" plywood to drill, than Styrofoam and inside paneling to drill thru. Again, with small wire size, I don't see any problem drilling at any spot. My 20 yo Lance had some water penetration under the awnings screws (put with no sealer by factory) but roof was perfectly solid. Hope you have it solid as well. For sealing the wires, I would make a loop going slightly above the roof level and use lot of polyurethane sealant. Seems all joints at low level, where the water might stay is a trouble waiting to happen. Thank you !!!
portscanner 08/07/20 08:39am Truck Campers
RE: Drilling hole in roof of Lance 1181

Lance bailed out when I asked them about help with 16 yo camper. Not only parts were not available, but no blueprints available. At the end I bought emergency skylight cover at Walmart (!) Lance changed ownership since, so maybe new owners take better care? I parted out my Lance 1161 and since I was reusing interior for other project, I actually took each screw out and disassembled it as much I could without cutting. So if you post me a picture of the area, I can make pretty educated guess where the frame might be. On other hand, what size wire? Drilling small hole even in 2" wide frame should not be a big deal. height=597 width=442 Will try contacting Lance and seeing what help I can get but in the mean time, the picture below is taken from a perspective of above and from the rear. (sorry for the blurriness - it is getting dark here) The black blob on the left is the rear left luggage rack rail mount. The brown blob is a leaf on the roof. My red X is approximately where the inside corner is. The rear of the camper has an overhang outside approx 6 inches wide with lights on it.I doubt there is anything where I am planning on drilling, but I would rather take the time to check than tear something up. To answer your question - about hole size- (2) 10 gauge wires. I plan on using a product like this to pass the wires through (although there is a dual connector model that I will use. I have used this in the past with great success.) More details: I am going to get (2) 12v 200 watt panels - wire them in series for 24 volts. Given the specifications of the panels I should get a max of 10 amps with the panels in series. Using a wire size calculator ( recommends #13 guage wire (based on a guestimate of 20 feet total wire length) so I am going for between #10 - #12 guage wire. (I found some nice pre-terminated cables on amazon that might be my best selection) I am looking at a couple of 24 volt in - 12 volt out charge controllers in the 30 Amp and higher range, as I have ideas for future expansion. thank you for your assistance!
portscanner 08/06/20 05:56pm Truck Campers
RE: Drilling hole in roof of Lance 1181

Have never done this myself but have read a few posts about folks running wires down their bathroom vent Bathroom vent is a good idea - but it is on the front right side. Opposite corner from where I need to be.
portscanner 08/06/20 04:52pm Truck Campers
Drilling hole in roof of Lance 1181

I am planning on mounting (2) 200 watt solar panels on the luggage rack on the top of my new (to me) Lance 1181. I would like to run the wiring down the left (drivers side) rear inside corner of the camper as it would be a straight line shot down to the batteries, which are also on the rear left side. I have a spot picked out to mount the charge controller that will not interfere with the slide. The question I have is does anyone know how the roof is constructed in that corner? For cosmetic purposes, I want to get as close to the inside corner as I can, but I dont want to be drilling through any support members or wires. (yes I know there is a connector on the roof - but it is in the front of the camper - and that wire runs all the way back to the RIGHT side kitchen cabinet, then down and to the left to the batteries. Really takes the long way home. I want to reduce voltage drop but shortening the length of the wire) Anyone have any words of advise or wisdom in this area? Thx!
portscanner 08/06/20 06:05am Truck Campers
RE: About to return to truck campers - but need help

If you don't have spring loaded turnbuckles you rip the tie down points off the camper. You either need the Happijack turnbuckles or the Torklift turnbuckles or their equivalent. I had 4 folding rings installed in the deck of my aluminum flatbed. They held great for 7 years. I used happijack spring loaded turnbuckles front and rear. Thank you! that information helps me out!
portscanner 07/29/20 10:57am Truck Campers
RE: About to return to truck campers - but need help

...I have the short range Torklift FastGuns running from my camper tie downs to the stake pockets of my flat bed. They are quick release so I still have access to the enclosed boxes that I have tucked under the wings of the camper.. I had never heard of such a product. That is the information I needed. I did some digging and quickly found them. Thank you!!!
portscanner 07/28/20 06:22pm Truck Campers
RE: About to return to truck campers - but need help

I am over the GVWR and the rear GAWR by > 1000lbs. ... The 2001 F450 flatbed I used to have - had rear axle rated at about 15k, so I could carry 10,000 lb forklifts on it. With TC you have issue with sliding the weight to the front, but then even the heaviest campers are less than 5000 lb. So I wonder how did you load it to exceed rear axle rating? When changing the truck is 1 option, removing flatbed, or making it shorter might be another. From what I know Dodge 4500 with the same configuration will have smaller payload than Ford. I did make one mistake I am over the rear axle rating of the F450 by 380 lbs, but over the GVWR by 1160 lbs the sticker on the door says the rear axle is 9000 lbs and the GVWR is 13300 The dodge I am looking at has a GVWR of 16500 and a rear axle of 12000
portscanner 07/28/20 05:51pm Truck Campers
RE: About to return to truck campers - but need help

You can go to local DMV and rate your truck for higher GVWR if paying higher taxes will make you feel better? Did you weight axles and compare the load to their ratings? Than in some states you can register the set as RV and avoid commercial fees. I am over the GVWR and the rear GAWR by > 1000lbs. And that is before we put in our "stuff" (we bought it, filled the fuel tank, took it to the scales - had not had the chance to load food, dogs, personal effects....or beer!) Turnbuckles are available at any hardware store, but hopefully a member with flatbed will give you direct experience. Did not know if the turnbuckles were special (do you need springs like with the big frame tie downs?) or how to specify the weight ratings to purchase them. It is a 9 foot bed, so going to get a stop installed 1 foot from the front so we dont have it sliding forward, and something on the sides, just in case. Got a couple of other things we are going to do. The one thing I dont know is what to use for turnbuckles. Go to Home Depot and purchase the biggest honkin turnbuckles I can find?
portscanner 07/28/20 02:08pm Truck Campers
About to return to truck campers - but need help

We traded our class C for a Ford F450, a Lance 1181 and some cash. Ran our new rig across the scales and the scales said we were 1K lbs over the GVWR. (not a big heartbreak - this really wasnt the truck I wanted) So, we have our eyes on a brand new Dodge 4500 cab and chassis with flatbed. There are many reasons we want to go this direction - too long to list here. Doing a lot of homework, but there is one thing I have not figured out. Where do you get the turnbuckles or whatever is needed to tie down the camper to the bed? The flatbed is a steel bed. I have seen pictures where people connect using the rail that runs around side of the flatbed (which makes sense) but I cant figure out exactly what they are using - so I can buy some! Any feedback would be appreciated!
portscanner 07/28/20 12:58pm Truck Campers
RE: Need replacement 2 prong cord from Atwood Jack width=640 the above is what I need. The other end is bare wires.
portscanner 07/03/20 11:24am Truck Campers
Need replacement 2 prong cord from Atwood Jack

The cord going from my front left atwood jack to the plug in the camper has an intermittent connection. The problem is in the jack (male connector) - it appears the wire is broken loose from the copper pin that goes into the camper. As this is a molded one piece assembly, I could cut it apart and attempt to repair it, but I was hoping I could just buy a replacement off the shelf and be done with it. And that is where my problem starts. I cannot find a replacement for just that cable by itself. Oh there are lots of kits with bunches of parts I dont need that have this part, but I was hoping just to purchase the cable. Any suggestions as to where I can find a replacement for this simple black cable with a molded plug and two connectors?
portscanner 07/03/20 08:39am Truck Campers
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