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 > Your search for posts made by 'portscanner' found 23 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Fix for Error: Topics per page to 20 Posts per page to 10

I’m not positive that this will fix everyone, but it seems logical. I only have a sample size of 1. Worked for me! You can increase your sample size by another +1 Thanks!!!
portscanner 10/07/19 08:51am Forum Posting Help and Support
3d printed box for Amdro Liquid Ant bait - prevent spills

I like the small liquid ant bait containers from Amdro, as they do the job, but the problem is they are so easy to spill. I created a little (near) spill proof container that had magnets to prevent it from falling off a shelf or countertop. If any spills out of the Amdro packaging, it is held inside the box - but there is no restrictions for the ants entering the box. If you have a 3d printer you can make this yourself. See here.
portscanner 09/27/19 11:15am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Propane valve wont seal - unusual? How to fix?

You might want to check with a propane distributor that does home and business delivery and installs and delivers tanks to those homes and businesses. They should have all the equipment necessary to safely empty tanks and cylinders and perform maintenance on them. thank you very much for that information! I am going to pursue that direction.
portscanner 09/05/19 06:07pm General RVing Issues
RE: Propane valve wont seal - unusual? How to fix?

10 mins sounds like a long time. Can you confirm that a functioning system will not run a stove for 10 minutes? 11-14WC is about 0.5psi in the line. It should run some with the tank off, but 10 mins sounds like more than enough time to drain out the lines. Also a variable is how many feet of propane plumbing there is to pull from. When you open the propane compartment it should smell. If on a trailer outside, then it will be hard to detect a smell if leaking. Without the stove test, I would consider a leak in the line somewhere also, the gen would have the same effect. Hopefully it is your tank or the hose/fitting that it connects to, or the regulator as these are easy to replace. 1. The stove is almost straight above the tank. So the line is going to be very short 2. Dont smell anything - but - as this is an AMSE tank and there is no floor under the tank and if anything was leaking, the propane would fall to the ground and disapate. Sorry to ask the obvious, but you don’t have two valve do you? One liquid for the genset, one vapor, or two vapor. there is a fill valve, an overflow valve and a valve that leads to the pressure regulator that leads into the RV
portscanner 09/01/19 06:04pm General RVing Issues
RE: Propane valve wont seal - unusual? How to fix?

Thx for the feedback!
portscanner 08/31/19 07:29pm General RVing Issues
Propane valve wont seal - unusual? How to fix?

I have a 2016 Forrest River Forrester 2401WS MBS. On our last one week outing we used the gas cooktop and gas water heater multiple times. On our way back home we stopped at a rest stop and we were going to need to stay there for 15-20 minutes and with the heat we decided to crank up the generator (on board propane) and start the A/C. Well, the generator would not start. Today, at home I had some extra time and decided to see about the generator. After decoding the flashing light error code - it indicated no fuel. So I went out to look at the ASME tank. The gauge said 1/3 full. I decided to try to see if maybe the valve was not fully open. I could turn it multiple times to fully open. Now, the generator would run. But - it seemed strange the number of turns on the valve - so I fully closed the valve - went back in and lit the cooktop. It worked. I let it burn for 10 minutes until I deliberately turned it off. From all I can tell, the propane valve on the tank does not fully turn off - it leaves enough to leak through to run the cooktop, refrigerator and/or water heater. Is that unusual? What's the best way to get that replaced?
portscanner 08/31/19 05:39pm General RVing Issues
Bracket to hold table leg - another 3d printed item

Got tired of the table leg rolling around when driving down the road. So, I designed two brackets to hold it in place. The can be secured in place with screws or as I mounted it on the floor under the edge of the bench, I used double faced tape. https://www.brittanynews.us/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/LegBracketWithLeg.jpeg height=480 width=640 Make your own here on thingiverse.com The design I have works with a 73 mm diameter leg. If you have a different size, you can download the cad files from the above link and re-size it as needed
portscanner 06/24/19 01:59pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: AC and DC voltmeter installation using a 3d printed bezel

Very nice. What is the price of 'ink' to make a panel like this? 1Kg of abs = $19.99 (see amazon Hatchbox abs printer filament) 18grams = amount of abs needed for faceplate $0.36 cost for plastic
portscanner 06/24/19 03:07am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
AC and DC voltmeter installation using a 3d printed bezel

Just another little addition. I found an AC Volt/Amp/Watt meter on Amazon and I had a DC volt meter I had purchased on ebay some time ago and I wanted to install them so I could keep an eye on the battery and line voltage in my RV I knew there was no way I could cut a very clean hole to mount the meters in the wood panelling, I designed a bezel and printed it on my 3d printer. It made for a very clean installation. The back light on the AC meter can be turned off with a button to the right of the display. I added a toggle switch to turn off the DC meter at night. Installation was very straight up given that the breaker box / fuse panel with inches to the left of the meters. https://www.brittanynews.us/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/RVMeters-small.jpeg width=640 Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.
portscanner 06/23/19 03:40am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Fridge Vent Fan Questions

I have done this on three different RV's. On each RV, while in Florida, the refrigerator operation was, well, marginal. Doing the following, I had rock hard ice cream Note - in all the RV's I have had, after studying how the refrigerator was installed vs the installation instructions from the refrigerator manufacturers, discovered, to my dismay, the RV manufacturers did not follow the proper install procedures for baffles and design for the area behind the fridge. I had two options - tear the fridge out and rebuild the back - or just install the fan. I am lazy. I installed the fan. Get a 12 volt, two wire, 90 mm fan - or the biggest one your can mount, i.e 100mm or 120mm. But note - the bigger in size the fan is - usually the larger the current draw! Just one - that is all you need. You dont need 100's of cubic feet of air a minute - you just need the air to move. Put it at the bottom of the fridge, just inside the access panel (the access panel on the outside of the RV.) Mount it horizontal, i.e. so that it blows up, uh...I mean so the direction of air flow is upward. On two of my RV's there was a lip I could screw directly into. On the third, I got a small piece of wood and glued it using yellow wood glue inside/above the outside access panel and then screwed into that. I would mount it about in the middle - but it can be a little more left or right depending on obstructions to mounting it. But I would have at least a few inches between the burner and the fan - just to be safe. You may have to get a little creative on your mounting bracket if need be Get a Emerson 3F05-1 Adjustable Snap Disc Fan Control. Adjust it for 110F. Select a location on the condenser coils on the back of the fridge that you can tie wrap (these things not twist ties - you dont have to get specifically this make/model - but use the black ones - they last longer) it to the coils. Use 16-18 gauge wire and crimp on spade connectors - make sure you use a proper crimping tool - not a pair of pliers!!! Wiring - IMPORANT - unplug the shore (110 volt) power cord. Disconnect the batteries using either your battery disconnect switch, remove the primary in line fuse, or disconnect the connections from the house batteries. On the back of the refrigerator (accessed through the exterior panel) Find the stud on your refrigerator control board for the refrigerator interior light. If there is no interior refrigerator light, it will not be used, so just plug into it. If you have an interior light, splice into that wire and connect it to one side of the thermostat you installed. Connect the thermostat to the fan (usually a red wire on the fan.) Connect the black wire from the fan to ground. Confirm the Voila! After you re-connect your battery, you have a fan that will only run when the fridge is turned on AND the cooling cycle is running!
portscanner 05/20/19 07:15pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: 3D printed refrigerator hold open

Is there a website that will print the 3d for you? I don't have nor want a printer. I can see a lot of potential for 3d printing of obsolete parts. There is a link on the page to services that will print it for you. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3631940/apps/print/#apps Also, I understand that there are some public libraries that have 3d printers available.
portscanner 05/15/19 09:11am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
3D printed refrigerator hold open

I lost one of my plastic cards to hold open the refrigerator door. Rather than deal with the ridiculous price + shipping for a little piece of plastic I quickly printed a replacement. I also created a left and right hand version. If anyone is interested in printing out their own -> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3631940
portscanner 05/15/19 07:48am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Busted radio antenna - Need help finding a replacement!

The antenna that is connected to the radio in the dash (for the driver) got busted. This antenna is mounted on the roof of the RV (not on the cab) so it is not from Mercedes Benz. The base of the antenna is a female 10-32 threaded hole - and is not damaged - I just got to get a new "stick" with male 10-32 threads to screw in. Looking on line for replacements, all I can find are listings that say for make/model/year, such as "for Ford F150 20XX-20YY" I cant find anything where there is a listing where it indicates the thread size. Anyone have a suggestion?
portscanner 04/07/19 10:27am Tech Issues
RE: What are you reading?

The Art of War by Sun Tzu I am about to get onto 285 around Atlanta at 5 p.m.
portscanner 03/05/19 06:38pm RV Lifestyle
RE: Tryng to identify what this antenna is.

Unfortunately, the original problem was lots of strange lights turning on and off on the dash. Problem was failure of two mystery black boxes which can only be diagnosed/fixed by the dealership/manufacturer. If it was an oil change, I would have done it myself.
portscanner 02/28/19 04:19am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tryng to identify what this antenna is.

I had an epiphany this morning and checked one more thing - turns out it is the antenna for the radio in the dash for the driver - as that radio cannot receive any signals now!
portscanner 02/27/19 06:55am Class C Motorhomes
Tryng to identify what this antenna is.

We had our (new to us) MBS 2401W serviced by (name redacted for now) and they managed to destroy the TV antenna, refrigerator vent, bend the am/fm radio antenna, and broke off what appears to be a 6" antenna. I am trying to figure out what this little 6" antenna is for. The Sirius satellite antenna is mounted flush to the roof. The AM/FM antenna is approx 2 1/2 feet long and has a spring mount on the bottom. The mystery antenna is just 6" long. It is mounted on the roof about a foot away from the TV antenna. Any suggestions?
portscanner 02/26/19 07:51pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 3d printed water fill adaptor

Portscanner, I'm curious about the center tube that the water comes out of. Is the tube the same size as the center hole in the fill port so it just press fits against the pipe? Or is it a bit smaller to let it slip inside the fill port tube? smaller - so that the tank can vent through the 4 smaller holes on the perimeter
portscanner 02/07/19 01:10pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: 3d printed wall plate for usb charger

Thank you. Please...keep posting your designs. For the average guy who wants to get into 3D printing what printer would you suggest? This looks like it would work perfect for this voltage meter! meter bob213 - I sent you a PM.
portscanner 02/07/19 11:32am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
3d printed wall plate for usb charger

This is not a new design of mine, but this is the first time I posted it. I wanted to add a USB charger outlet to my RV. Cutting a clean, neat hole with flat sides is very difficult. So, I designed a single gang plate that would hold a 12V - USB charger. I created this some time ago and I am just posting it now. If you have a 3d printer, you can download it from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3411192 The first time I did this I used a low voltage single gang mounting bracket because I had room in the wall. This time I dont have the room so I will be using a surface mount box. The usb charger I am using is from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MNGCDVS/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can also use this plate for any device that uses a round hole with flat sides where the diameter of the round part is 28.3 mm and the flat parts are 26.3 mm apart. I will install it this weekend - pictures of the install when I get it done.
portscanner 02/07/19 09:13am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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