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 > Your search for posts made by 'ramsaymike' found 23 matches.

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RE: House/chassis battery issue

As I understand it the problem is not that unusual and is likely due to leaks in the high pressure fuel system. I don't think there is any danger to the engine just an unusual long crank when cold as it gets the fuel pressure high enough that the ECU allows it to start. It is a late '07 motor and has 124k km so about 77k miles on it and runs well otherwise. Faster cranking speeds (from fully charged batteries) do make a difference - thus the idea of keeping the batteries charged. Because I have a solar system on it I can use it to always keep the batteries charged but needed a way to include the chassis batteries which the new interconnect takes care of...
ramsaymike 09/07/20 05:01pm Tech Issues
RE: House/chassis battery issue

No. I have added a separate relay. I do normally use the dash emerg start tor cold starts as it provides a better cracking rpm that reduces start time on the 6.0 diesel. This issue is related only to my motor and would not apply to most. I am hoping that the ability to keep both sets of batteries charged helps with winter storage.
ramsaymike 09/07/20 03:56am Tech Issues
RE: House/chassis battery issue

To complete the picture I have now added my own version of a trik-l-start - essentially my own interconnect relay that I can control with my on-board data system. Once the house batteries are charged (in float) I connect the batteries and let the solar charge the chassis batteries. Exact logic to be determined but it seems to work fine. I plan to use this approach to maintain both sets of batteries over the winter although the effect of heavy snow may need to be considered.
ramsaymike 09/06/20 04:33am Tech Issues
RE: MPPT Controllers

With respect to your original question on data display I would like to offer an alternative approach. Rather than purchase an off the shelf solution - usually quite expensive - I suggest you just make your own! The basics - say a shunt on the batteries and a MODBUS data connection into your solar charge controller are available at very low cost (<$50) and offer essentially unlimited capabilities all with no cost tools. I'm not saying it will be easy but it will be cheap and you will end up really knowing what is going on with your system. If you are at all technically inclined I'm sure it is achievable. Something to consider...
ramsaymike 08/21/20 06:47pm Tech Issues
RE: House/chassis battery issue

Problem has been resolved. It seems that the dash battery interconnect button must be pressed with the key off. I was pressing it with the key on just before turning to start! My solar system keeps the house batteries fully charged so with the button I get good cranking speed and a start in maybe 2-3 seconds rather than 5-6 seconds. I will leave as is for now but will continue to look for the current leaks. Thanks to all for the discussion.
ramsaymike 08/21/20 04:19am Tech Issues
RE: House/chassis battery issue

Well I think the Trik-L-Start is a DC-DC trickle And somewhat related to the last comment it seems that the house batteries are under the entry step (2007 Coachmen Concord M275) while the chassis batteries are further back in a compartment. I thought it should be the other way around and actually took the unit back to the dealer to confirm but was told that it was correct. It seemed odd to me. Can anyone confirm that this is correct?
ramsaymike 08/19/20 10:46am Tech Issues
RE: House/chassis battery issue

Batteries are new. I will continue to monitor to see if there is something going on with a unknown current draw. (several modifications have been made by previous owners - alarm/remote start/... - so it is difficult to know exactly what is going on) The use of a separate battery charger would require the inverter and seem more complex than just using the Trik-L-Start. It appears to have all the smarts to effectively replace the charger with no user intervention and would be an excellent long term solution. Maybe I'm missing something. Thanks to all for the discussion.
ramsaymike 08/19/20 03:00am Tech Issues
RE: House/chassis battery issue

The problem I am dealing concerns the cracking speed of the motor. This is a 6L Ford diesel and it needs to developed sufficient pressure before it lets the engine start. THe faster the crank speed the faster the start. Even using the battery interconnect button does not help much. Of course, it can be fixed but as a work around it seems that having a fully charged battery does make a difference. There could well be a problem with some sort of unknown current draw - the battery was at 11.7V after 10 days or so. This 2007 unit is new to me. Also I should add that 120ac is not available where it is stored. It has 340 watts of solar.
ramsaymike 08/18/20 04:26pm Tech Issues
RE: House/chassis battery issue

This is essentially what I had in mind by using the battery interconnect solenoid. I think the Trik-L-Start looks like a good install and forget solution....
ramsaymike 08/18/20 07:10am Tech Issues
RE: House/chassis battery issue

Anyone know of a source for the Trik-L-Start in Canada???
ramsaymike 08/18/20 04:35am Tech Issues
RE: House/chassis battery issue

Thanks for the ideas. I like the look of the Trik-L-Start. I should be able to simply install it across the interconnect solenoid - I think. Sounds ideal to me as I will always have active solar charging every day and can just let it keep the starting batteries charged.
ramsaymike 08/17/20 06:29pm Tech Issues
House/chassis battery issue

I have a 2007 Coachmen Concord DS275 and discovered that the only way to charge the chassis batteries is by the alternator. Shore power charges house batteries only. This is a real issue for me as the engine cracking speed is critical in starting the 6L Ford diesel. I also have a solar system but it too is house only. I would like to be able to use the solar charging as needed to keep the chassis batteries fully charged. The battery interconnect solenoid would seem to be what I need to use but when I activate it (apply 12v) the headlights turn on which greatly reduces the charging efficiency. Any ideas appreciated.
ramsaymike 08/17/20 05:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery interconnect logic

Not looking for more equipment - just trying to make the best use of what I already have...and no DC fridge.
ramsaymike 06/23/20 05:45am Tech Issues
RE: Battery interconnect logic

Thanks for the replies and input. My real goal is to try to make maximum use of the money I spent on the solar system. The fridge is just something that seems doable (vs hot water for instance). So if I'm driving along and by - say - 11 the house batteries are fully charged the power available from the solar system has no place to go. My fridge uses 330 watts while running on AC - certainly more than I can produce on solar at any time. My idea was to use an inverter to run the fridge for a time based on keeping the batteries at a suitable SOC to get through the night if no hookup is available and the weather cooperates - no AC required. I can just turn the ac power off to the fridge to have it switch to propane as needed. Doubtless, this is not a very practical application but I enjoy such things. I would prefer to keep the alternator out of the equation as no matter how much it still requires fuel to work. (I'm into home automation and am instrumenting the unit to monitor/control electrical flows and device states where practical) Is there something better to do with excess solar? Other ideas?
ramsaymike 06/23/20 03:45am Tech Issues
RE: Battery interconnect logic

I'm going to have to think about this some more. My main goal is to maximize my solar system (340w) so I really don't want to get the alternator involved at all when it comes to the house batteries. If the solar can't handle the load even with some logic I would just could not use it and would go to a backup strategy- like propane. I'm just trying to understand how things work together..
ramsaymike 06/22/20 03:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery interconnect logic

Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. I think I will try removing the control wires and see how it goes. The idea is to let the alternator work on the chassis batteries and the solar on the house - if that makes sense...
ramsaymike 06/22/20 12:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery interconnect logic

I guess my real problem is that I don't know how the alternator and solar system cooperate. I want to make sure that I use all of the available solar before even thinking about the alternator. For instance, I am considering running the fridge through an inverter - at least to the extent possible on solar. If not enough, I would just switch to propane. I just don't want to drive down the road with full batteries and nothing to load the solar with...if I have it right!
ramsaymike 06/22/20 12:07pm Tech Issues
Battery interconnect logic

I have a recently acquired 2007 Coachmen Concord and am trying to determine just when the house and chassis batteries are connected. There are 4 wires attached to hot side of the solenoid controlling the connection. I have determined that the dash "aux start" and alternator when running seem to connect them but no idea about what else. I am considering putting a switch inline to provide my own logic. I want to be able to use my newly added solar to at least do something while travelling rather than have the alternator do the work - at least that is the idea anyway. Does anyone see any issues with this approach?
ramsaymike 06/22/20 11:32am Tech Issues
RE: Solar charge question

some fancier controller have diversionary loads when the controller is limiting power production, like using excess power to heat water stored in the water heater. This is sort of thing I was thinking about. Why not heat water or run the fridge with the unused power? It would seem obvious that you would try to maximise free energy. Thanks for the feedback.
ramsaymike 03/02/20 04:12am Tech Issues
RE: Solar charge question

Well, maybe I should look for other ways to use the available 200 watts - if that is practical or even possible...
ramsaymike 03/01/20 05:50pm Tech Issues
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