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Date Posted |
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RE: I got the shakes
He may also have used the balancing ceramic BEADS which also come in bags and will not clump or be affected by moisture and do not require special valve cores.
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rgatijnet1
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09/16/19 11:29am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I got the shakes
Have you thought about getting a four wheel alignment? This is where the rear axle is aligned with the front axle so that they both roll down the highway in perfect alignment with each other. Not too many shops can do the four wheel thrust alignment so they will just tell you that it is not needed and all that you need to do is just the standard front end alignment.
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rgatijnet1
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09/16/19 09:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I got the shakes
Sounds more like an out of round tire. Use your levelers and raise the tires off the ground and watch them as they rotate. you should see a tire that is out of round enough to cause a shake. Of course it could also be a bent wheel which will also show up.
There are also rings that are in the rubber tire itself and you can check them against the metal edge of the wheel to see if the bead had seated evenly or is off center.
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rgatijnet1
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09/15/19 12:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diminshed Value Claims
This is one of those "for what it's worth posts".
I went to the Carvana website where they will buy your vehicle and give you an estimate of the value.
I picked a 2017 Corvette convertible as the vehicle and went through their list of options, etc. One of the things they ask is if the vehicle had been in any accidents and the overall condition.
I kept everything the same EXCEPT that I listed it with NO accidents in great condition and then I did the exact same thing with ONE accident in great condition.
The difference in the price that they would offer for the vehicle was approximately 10% LESS for the same vehicle with one accident vrs the identical vehicle with no accidents.
Obviously this is their wholesale offer to buy the vehicle and it does NOT reflect the retail value when the vehicle is sold.
I also ran through the same process with an older vehicle, 2009 Chevrolet HHR(my tow vehicle). There was NO difference in the value of the vehicle if it had no accidents or if it had one accident. Obviously the newer the vehicle, the greater the value difference with one accident.
You can go to the CARVANA website and do your own comparison. The values they are offering for the vehicles seems quite low but I was only interested in the difference with or without an accident.
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rgatijnet1
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09/15/19 09:39am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diminshed Value Claims
As far as private sellers having to disclose all accidents (by law), have no clue how people can make this stuff up and believe it.
Mike
If it is on the internet it has to be true. :B
Even auto dealers in Florida do not have to disclose anything if they put a simple note on the vehicle that says basically "As is, no warranty".
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rgatijnet1
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09/14/19 08:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel economy
I always tow a vehicle so I automatically double my mileage by getting two vehicles from A to B while using about the same amount of fuel. :B
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rgatijnet1
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09/13/19 12:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 8.1 Engine Running Hot
rgatijnet1
I should have stated that I have put on almost 2,000 miles since all this started.
My comment about the fan clutch break in period was meant for after your new one is installed.
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rgatijnet1
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09/13/19 04:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 8.1 Engine Running Hot
Keep in mind that many of us with the same engine have had to drive for a number of miles BEFORE the fan clutch settled in. For me it was almost 100 miles. Some of the others were less and a few were more. On my fan clutch there was a note "in the box" about how it had to be stored on the shelf. I guess they expected the warehouse to open the box before they put it on the shelf. In any case, after the necessary break in period my fan clutch would start to roar at 207 degrees, as verified by my OBDII monitor of the actual coolant temperature. Right now if your temperature is moving up and down on level roads, I would say that your thermostat is working but you might not be getting sufficient water flow or sufficient air through the radiator. Make sure that the radiator is properly cleaned and flushed from the rear to force debris out the front. My normal cruise temp on a level road, while loaded and towing was a steady 196 degrees by my OBDII gauge.
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rgatijnet1
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09/12/19 03:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diminshed Value Claims
PastorCharlie. That is exactly what we understand also. "Any" vehicle that has suffered damage will suffer for diminished value, private sale or trade. So of course our concern is this in itself. This so called "diminished value" industry (when we do have to deal with it) is a very grey area. Trying to show "post value" after incident-repairs seems to be a very big hurdle.
That is exactly right and why people check with CarFax and the other available websites to check to see if a vehicle has a record of any accidents. Determining the dollar amount that it decreases the value is ambiguous to say the least. On our vehicle it was a unibody type of construction so I did not feel that it could ever be repaired to the structural integrity that it had prior to the accident. On your RV, if all of the damage was cosmetic, rather than structural, then I am pretty sure that it could be repaired to be as good as, or better than, new. As I mentioned before, just tell the insurance company that you want it repaired and that you want an additional $X,XXX dollars for incidentals and see what their response is. If the amount that you are asking for is not ridiculous, they will probably just pay it and move on. If you keep using the "diminished value" argument, they will use their lawyers to push back against you. They do not want to set a precedent. Unless you are looking for some kind of a windfall from this incident, just ask for a reasonable amount and move on.
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rgatijnet1
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09/12/19 06:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diminshed Value Claims
I negotiated a value for our Jaguar that was damaged by a State Farm insured. They did not want to use the "diminished value" claim that I originally started with. They asked that I submit what I would accept and they would review and rule on my suggestions. I submitted three different alternatives and they agreed to write me a check for the full amount that I requested. No lawyer involved and I feel that they handled it very well and quickly.
I would get all of your figures together and just tell the insurance company what you would accept. Try to avoid using the "diminished value" reference and see how it goes. Remember they are supposed to get you back to where you were before the accident. Some companies are easier to deal with than others but I would think that a large company that handles commercial vehicles would just be interested in a quick settlement.
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rgatijnet1
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09/11/19 01:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake problem
OK, I took the MH in to the large local dealer here. They tested the brake fluid for moisture and there was 4% water in it so they flushed the brake fluid, checked the calipers, tested the pressure, and test drove it. They said one rotor showed signs if being hot at some time but that the caliper was free and moved easily. They checked all calipers for being free to move as they should. They said the master cylinder was OK. I am very happy with their service, it was not cheap but very thorough and were very good at keeping me informed on their progress. Thanks for all of the comments!
If you still have your invoice, check to see how many quarts of brake fluid they used. I have seen others charged for brake flush when really all they got was a brake bleed. They should have used 3 quarts of brake fluid for a flush and only 1 quart for a brake bleed. Glad things worked out with a minimum of expense.
A fluid flush should be done every 2 years. Your fluid showed 4% moisture content but that moisture tends to accumulate at the lowest point in the system, which is the calipers, which also get the hottest and causes the fluid to boil.
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rgatijnet1
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09/11/19 05:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Class A drive tires
I would definitely run 3 year old tires. Since they are unmounted it is easy to check for any ozone cracking or other deterioration from storage. I would not expect to get 7 more years out of them but I would not hesitate to buy them if they still lokk like new and were not stored out in the weather.
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rgatijnet1
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09/10/19 10:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: dead 2015 axis 24.1 chassis
Did you forget to throw the battery disconnect switch after you changed the batteries?
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rgatijnet1
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09/09/19 09:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake problem
Since the fluid may not have ever been flushed, there is every possibility that there was a lot of moisture mixed with the brake fluid. In this case it could have boiled WITHOUT actually getting hot enough to smell "hot brakes". Moisture lowers the boiling point and enough water means that it could have boiled under conditions that were not much hotter than they would have gotten with normal braking. You can spend as much money as you want, and change out everything, but I'll bet that just changing the brake fluid will fix your problem. It is a fairly common issue on the P chassis Workhorse.
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rgatijnet1
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09/09/19 04:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water in furnace bay
Is your furnace under your refrigerator or any other thing that has water fed to it or develops water from condensation?
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rgatijnet1
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09/08/19 10:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake problem
If the brakes return to close to normal after things cool off, then there is nothing wrong with your master cylinder.
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rgatijnet1
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09/08/19 09:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake problem
I'm going to guess that your brake fluid had gotten hot during the drive to the campsite and what you experienced was the water in the fluid actually started to boil. If the pedal is up after things have cooled down, water in your brake fluid is the cause of your problem. It is recommended that your brake fluid be FLUSHED and changed every few years. Having your brake fluid flushed is NOT the same as just bleeding the brakes. On my coach it takes about 3 quarts of fluid to completely change all of the fluid in the calipers, the master cylinder, and all of the brake lines. Make sure that the mechanic also knows how to get the air out of your ABS(anti-lock brake system) when he is finished.
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rgatijnet1
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09/08/19 04:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 8.1 Engine Running Hot
Keep this website in your files. It is the go to place for WH part numbers and alternatives. You can also send them an email and ask questions. You can find part numbers for all kinds of Workhorse parts for your engine, cooling system, chassis, etc. OEMYS performance
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rgatijnet1
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09/06/19 05:13am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tow dolly empty - 1500 miles
Having been behind some empty car dollies, I would keep a close eye on it. Most that I have seen bounced all over the road sort of like fishtailing. Obviously they are not heavy enough to affect the coach handling but I figured it probably didn't do the dolly any good. Maybe uneven tire wear and bearing stress as well as possible structural damage to the dolly.
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rgatijnet1
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09/05/19 10:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do you leave plugged into shore power...?
Always plugged in at home when parked. Keeps house batteries charged and powers the separate charger used for my chassis batteries. Been doing it for decades without any issues. In Florida you never know when a storm will threaten and you have to leave or use the coach when/if the power fails.
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rgatijnet1
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09/04/19 10:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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