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RE: Campground Breakers - EDITED
You were in an RV park. It was hot and lots of others were using their AC's as well. This probably caused a voltage drop in certain portions of the RV park.
As the voltage drops the current draw goes up. As the current increased because of the voltage drop this may have tripped marginal circuit breakers
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rgatijnet1
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07/13/19 07:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: ABS Module
Have you checked ALL of the ABS wheel sensors? One can go bad and it will keep the ABS light on at all times. Most have a pigtail connected to them which can be disconnected for a resistance check. On my coach, the normal reading is 1200 ohms. Anything other than that is a bad sensor. On your coach just look for the one sensor that reads differently than the others.
other than that, there are several RV salvage yards around the country that may be able to supply you with a working ABS module. I would also guess that many truck salvage yards may have parts for an F53.
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rgatijnet1
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07/13/19 07:12am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Chevy 8.1 dropping into a low power mode
My 8.1L would occasionally go in to limp mode. I would just throw the chassis battery disconnect switch for a few seconds and this would correct the problem by resetting the electronic control module. Happened no more than twice a year.
If the problem does return immediately, then it needs to be checked further.
If you were driving in the rain, sometimes the air intake will ingest water and cause the MAF to put the engine in to limp mode. Check the air cleaner and see if it is wet.
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rgatijnet1
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07/12/19 12:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 120 volt electrical outlets, no power.Help!
Don't some coaches have an interlock between the ignition and the TV's?
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rgatijnet1
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07/10/19 01:24pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motor homes and earth quakes.
If the shake, rattle and roll of the highways don't ruin your MH under normal driving directions, I don't see where the earthquakes are going to do much to you except scare the wits out of you. MHs are sure to be safer than being inside any structures - even if you're steadying it with your levelers.
(Unless there's a quake like the 1959 quake in Alaska.)
I wasn't concerned with the shake while driving but parked with jacks down and slides out.
With a storm, I knew WHEN to pull in the slides and retract the jacks. With an earthquake it is all guesswork. In most cases you really don't need your jacks if you can park the rig fairly level. As far as the slides go, I'd leave them out, hope for the best, and remember that I have insurance to cover damage.
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rgatijnet1
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07/08/19 09:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motor homes and earth quakes.
I agree that are RV's are meant to bounce around. During an earthquake I would not worry if my RV bounced some. During some strong storms, I have felt the coach lean and sway with the winds. Personally I would do my best to park without using the leveling jacks to stabilize the coach. The hydraulic leveling jacks prevent the RV from moving on it's springs and an earthquake may cause damage to the leveler jacks by bending them. This is why I have never extended my jacks when parked during a strong storm.
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rgatijnet1
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07/08/19 05:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water heater question
I believe the Atwood water heater tank is aluminum. As far as repairing the styrofoam(?) perhaps you can use a can of spray foam available at Home Depot. Use the spray foam for around windows since it fills the gap but does not expand and pushing things apart.
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rgatijnet1
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06/30/19 02:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Blade Seal
Replace the bottom gasket at the floor at the same time.
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rgatijnet1
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06/29/19 04:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Blade Seal
Try this and wear gloves: Seal replacement
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rgatijnet1
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06/29/19 03:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water system woes.
If the valve is not shifted from shore water the water pump will continue to run. Check you main input valve and make sure that it is not on shore water.
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rgatijnet1
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06/28/19 09:44am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorcoach Graveyard
Here is a link: RV Salvage
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rgatijnet1
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06/23/19 05:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Rooftop ac repair
Did you see what the voltage dropped to when the AC unit tried to start? Perhaps the voltage is dropping below that required to start the compressor. Just a thought.
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rgatijnet1
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06/20/19 12:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water pressure issue
The filter on the inlet side of the pump is not pressurized. On some pumps it is maybe 2" in diameter and has an O-ring that sometimes leaks. It is connected to and part of the pump, not a separate piece.
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rgatijnet1
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06/18/19 07:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water pressure issue
What water filter did you change? My coach had a water filter in the kitchen to filter the water before it came out the faucet. There is usually a small water filter on the suction side of the pump itself. This filter is just cleaned, not changed. If the gasket on this filter is not sealing properly, it will suck air when the pump is running. Since it is on a non-pressurized part of the water system, it may not leak at all while sitting there. When hooked up to the campground water does not flow through the pump or the input filter.
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rgatijnet1
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06/18/19 05:00am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Question for Class A owners.
Have you worked on a new automobile recently???
I don't mean to be flippant but the new automobiles have so much stuff under the hood that it is impossible to see the engine without removing a lot of items. On both my Chevy and Chrysler, the space under the hood is so cramped that both of them have the battery in the trunk because there is no room under the hood in the engine compartment.
Motor homes are cramped for some repairs, and easy for others. If you go to a shop that specializes in RV, they will take care of you. Many medium and large truck shops will work on RV's. Motor homes have their own unique challenges, but so do the new vehicles that are on the road. The fact is that any problem can be taken care of. Some issues just take a little longer. :B
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rgatijnet1
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06/14/19 05:00am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Triple digit heat! Generator won't run
I assumed that you checked the obvious which is the fuel level in the main fuel tank as well as the OIL level in the generator. This may also be an issue with a crack in the rubber incoming fuel line to the generator, which is allowing air to reach the carb instead of just fuel.
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rgatijnet1
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06/13/19 05:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replacing older mirror
There are several RV salvage yards around the country. I would contact one of them and see if you can get a replacement off of a similar RV. Just do a search of RV salvage yards and find one close, altho the shipping will not be that bad if you can't find one close.
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rgatijnet1
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06/12/19 02:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel economy and additives
That is correct concerning ethanol. If you look at the placard on the pump it usually says something to the effect that the fuel may contain UP TO 10% ethanol so your ECM has to adjust accordingly. When at high altitudes out West, you will sometimes see stations advertising that they have 85 octane. I have used it in my GM 8.1L with no issues at all. When I was leaving the high altitudes, I would top it off with 87 octane. I'm not sure if the Ford can use 85 or not.
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rgatijnet1
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06/12/19 12:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel economy and additives
Your engine has a sophisticated computer management system. If you use the MINIMUM fuel octane as recommended by the owner's manual, which is probably 87 octane, the computer will make the necessary adjustments to give you the best performance/mileage. Using a higher octane fuel will not improve the mileage on an engine that has the computer calibrated for 87 octane.
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rgatijnet1
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06/12/19 10:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel economy and additives
100% ethanol free gas will increase your mileage, but the additional cost will probably not be worth it. The addition of fuel additives may help to clean an injector but will not help with mileage.
Basically if you do everything that can be done to increase the mileage, the only thing you will accomplish is going from really terrible mileage to just terrible mileage. RV's are not designed to be fuel efficient, even if it is a diesel. I've had diesel RV's before and the mileage is still bad, altho not quite as bad as the gasser. Of course diesel costs more so it is a wash. The only thing the mileage log will do is just remind you that the enjoyment from RVing far outweighs the cost of fuel. You are better off using the credit cards, like PenFed that offer a 5% discount on every purchase of fuel. There are other CC that may be better but that 5% discount is more than you will get from any additives.
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rgatijnet1
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06/12/19 07:34am |
Class A Motorhomes
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