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 > Your search for posts made by 'rgatijnet1' found 206 matches.

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RE: Air bags on a Class A gasser

A bolt on air spring (bag) will only make the coach ride harsher as it increases the spring rate. To truly get a steel spring MH to ride smooth you would need to do a complete air suspicion system. That is remove the steel spring, bolt in a new suspension system with the air bags, this will cost around $13000! But it will ride amazing! That is exactly right if you inflate the air bags because of high cross winds. On the other hand, it make driving in high winds much easier and safer. When there is no need for wind control, all you have to do is push the dash switch and deflate the air bags to regain the same ride as before. They are not as good as a full air bag suspension but a four corner air bag system, with dash control, only cost me about $1200. I suspect that if you have a full air bag system, and you need to inflate the suspension to deal with winds, that the ride will also be harsher than normal conditions.
rgatijnet1 11/30/20 07:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air bags on a Class A gasser

If you want the convenience of a remote control system, I hope you are very technically inclined or have a very good mechanic around. Either way air springs are a huge improvement. After several years of having complete control of my air bags with the push of a button on my dash, I never found the need for a mechanic. The system always worked as designed and the 12 volt Air-Lift compressors that came with the air bags never failed and never needed any maintenance. I also never had an air bag failure. The installation was well within the abilities of anyone that can use basic tools. The 12 volt power for the air compressor(s) is easily spliced in to any existing wiring since they draw very few amps. I do agree that the air bags are a huge improvement but the ability to change the air pressure as conditions changed should not be overlooked.
rgatijnet1 11/30/20 05:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Long trips

Our trips usually lasted 2-3 months and covered 5000-7000 miles. We very seldom would stay more than a day or two at one location before we were on our way again. We never made reservation and never had a set schedule or destination. We would just leave Florida, head West, and tried to follow a route that we had not used before. Without a schedule or reservation we would just travel until we decided to stop for the day. We might decide to stop because we found a small town that we liked or because the weather was getting bad. This is one of the reasons why we preferred a Class A. Even if it was pouring down rain, we could just stop, fire up the generator, and have everything we needed without getting soaked trying to set up for the night. Naturally if we were stopping in an RV park during the rain we would wait for a break and then go out and hook up the electric so that we did not need the generator. We always traveled with full or close to full water tanks and only hooked up to water or sewer to fill our tank or empty our waste. This prevented freezing problems since we traveled mostly during the Winter months. We pulled a Chevrolet HHR behind our coach which provided enough room for our 100+ pound dog as well as provided a comfortable and fuel efficient vehicle for us to tour an area. With our Class A we had all of the conveniences of home with satellite TV, wifi, a comfortable bed, comfortable seating, and plenty of room for us and our big dog. By not having a destination or a schedule we found that our trips were always relaxing and provided us with new adventures each time we were on the road. We found that there are many things to experience during each trip that would never be listed in a travel brochure. It also meant that we could drive when we wanted to and just sit and relax if we decided that is what we needed.
rgatijnet1 11/26/20 08:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air bags on a Class A gasser

I installed them on my Workhorse W chassis. With a dash control, I could inflate or deflate them as needed. When out in the Great Plains, with the heavy winds, I was able to pump them up and minimize sway which allowed me to continue when others were pulling off. When there were light winds I could deflate the bags and regain a smoother ride. I also liked being able to raise the rear end if I needed driveway clearance, etc. All things considered, I feel they were a good investment and accomplished my objectives.
rgatijnet1 11/24/20 06:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is there any difference in DRIVING a gas class A vs diesel?

By all means take them for a test drive, especially if you are looking at used Class A units. Having had both, I know that they will all make it to the top of any hill and they will all get you to your destination. You will spend more time parked so make sure that you can live with EVERYTHING about the floor plan, storage, etc. If you are a DIY mechanic make sure that you are knowledgeable about gas or diesel systems. Engine noise is less on a diesel pusher, but on a used unit, wind noise in the cockpit can be a problem with either. If you have to pay for all service, the diesel will be more expensive and there will be fewer places that can service your engine. Most gas units have the Ford engine and most parts are available at any auto parts stores. Just take any unit you are considering for a ride on a city street and on the highway and see if you are comfortable with everything and that the wife is happy with the floor plan. Also, If you are planning on towing I think all of the gas units are limited to 5000 pounds, as are some diesels. Many diesels are rated for much more if needed.
rgatijnet1 11/20/20 03:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Draining hot water tank

If the water came from a municipal water supply, it contains chemicals necessary to prevent organism growth in the water. It is probably better to keep the tank full to minimize the amount of oxygen in the tank which can promote growth on the sidewalls. If it is filled with well water, or water of an unknown source, than drain it if you cannot fill it with water from a municipal source. If you have municipal water available you can drain and fill it every few months if you are concerned about odors.
rgatijnet1 11/20/20 01:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Jack stands

Most of the foreign made jack stands are rated per the PAIR. Many of the USA made, and especially the older jack stands, were rated as EACH. Be safe and use everything that you have to be safe including lowering your levelers to provide a little bit of added protection.
rgatijnet1 11/20/20 04:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Large Shut-Off

At 3" is sounds like a sewer pipe rather than fresh water.
rgatijnet1 11/17/20 05:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford V10 vs Chevy Gas

WH brakes were covered by a recall and like the one I had, everything was replaced with new parts. Unless the WH recall was totally ignored by the previous owner, the brake issue is really a non-issue. The bulletproof Allison transmission is the main reason a lot of people prefer the WH chassis. As far as internal failures, the rate is very low and probably about the same as with the Ford engines. Mine went well over 100K and so did many other 8.1L engines with no problems at all. Like every other mechanical object, it does take routine maintenance to keep thing running smoothly.
rgatijnet1 11/12/20 06:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: HDMI PART 2

From Amazon you can get a 20' HDMI cable for $18. It can't be that difficult to run a wire. Sometimes in the back of a cabinet there are panels that can be removed or drawers that can be removed to make it easier. Failing that, maybe you can go down, under, and up to the place where you need it. Most wireless systems that I have seen have issues whti interference from flourescent lights, cell phones, and other wireless items.
rgatijnet1 11/10/20 02:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1990 fleetwood bounder 34s electrical newbie help

Check to make sure that the spark plugs that you are using are the right ones. You may want to switch to a cooler spark plug.
rgatijnet1 11/04/20 05:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV Refrigerator in cold weather

Instead of a small heater in your basement compartment, we always used a 100 watt incandescent bulb, in a trouble light housing to keep the wet compartment warm at temps down to zero. It uses a lot less power and is safer than a small electric heater.
rgatijnet1 10/25/20 08:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford V10 vs Chevy Gas

I think the main reason is because the Gm 8.1L engine was last used around 2008. I had great luck with the 8.1L engine and put close to 100,000 miles on mine and it still didn't burn any oil between 5000 mile oil changes. It gave fair mileage but then again I have heard the V-10 is not that good either. I always towed and never had any climbing issues in the Western mountains. The 8.1L engine had some issues with burning spark plug wires but that was usually restricted to certain coach manufacturers that did not provide enough ventilation. High temperature silicone plug wires would solve that issue. The MAIN advantage to the 8.1L engine came when it was coupled with the Workhorse W chassis and then it came with the ALLISON transmission, which is bullet proof.
rgatijnet1 10/24/20 01:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tv reception with air antenna

Have you allowed your TV to do a "search" of channels that are available for over the air reception? Also have you made sure at remote locations that you change your TV input, on the TV itself, to use the roof antenna?
rgatijnet1 10/23/20 02:20pm Technology Corner
RE: 1972 Ford RV - Can't find any info

None of the pictures open but here is one 1972 Ford RV that you can have for free. 1972 Ford Class A
rgatijnet1 10/23/20 09:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 suspension upgrades

Richard, I gave links to PROFESSIONAL RV alignment shops that have equipment you have probably never touched. Just because you have never worked in a well equipped shop is no reason to try to discredit shops that have an outstanding reputation in the RV world. Perhaps you guys should stick with small vehicles and leave the RV's and trucks to the PROFESSIONALS. Even the FMCA link mentioned how the rear axle can be adjusted on a gas coach but I'm sure that you and Dodge guy have years of experience back when a lot of things were not possible. Time marches on and has left the two of you behind.
rgatijnet1 10/21/20 09:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 suspension upgrades

Before I would spend any money on bolt-ons I would do the basics first. In other words load the coach exactly as it is when you travel with full fuel and fresh water(if you fill your tanks for travel), as well as food and clothing. Then have ALL four corner weighed and adjust your tire pressure according to the manufacturer's specs. The next would be to take it to an alignment shop, while the coach is still loaded for travel, that can deal with motor homes and get a front and rear axle alignment or a thrust angle alignment. Some shops will tell you that your rear axle is not adjustable when they DO NOT have the equipment available to set the trust angle on an RV chassis. It can be adjusted. After you have done these things, and you still are not happy with the way the coach drives, then try some add-ons, one at a time. Tell us how you adjust the rear thrust angle on a gas chassis with no provisions for adjustment? The spring hangers are bolted to holes in the frame, the spring draw bolt head aligns with a hole in the axle tube. There are no cams, no adjustable rods, etc. Richard The rear axle is attached to the springs with U-bolts that can be loosened to allow the axle to be moved as necessary to get it in to perfect alignment. You don't move the springs but the rear axle itself can be moved. Here is a link to Brazels which gives some details on the services they offer. There are other alignment shops that have the ability to give a gas or a diesel pusher RV a 4 wheel alignment. Brazels 4 wheel alignment on a gas chassis Here is another link: FMCA alignment Here is another place that can do the alignment as can any shop that has Hunter equipment designed for thrust angle alignment: Hendersons Another place: Sunshine Service No! The rear axle is located on the springs with pins. If the axle can be moved then it is unsafe and shouldn’t be driven. Axles need the pins to properly locate the axle. Other wise it would move on the spring under acceleration or braking. And the u bolts are not strong enough to keep it from moving. Even after giving a bunch of links to talk with someone that do alignments for a living, there are still some people that are stuck in the past that do not believe there is any possible way to adjust axles that they believe cannot ever be changed. Some people keep up with the times and understand that modifications can be made for very little money that allows an alignment tech to adjust the rear axle to obtain perfect alignment without compromising any safety issues. Here is a picture of one mod that actually creates "pins" that are adjustable. Anyone that thinks that a straight axle that is 12-20 feet behind the front axle is in perfect alignment when it leaves the factory needs to go back to school. As I mentioned, the shops that tell you it cannot be adjusted/aligned just do not have the equipment to do it so they come up with all kinds of "excuses" to convince you it is impossible. Note that the picture is from 2009. This is not NEW tech. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/Axle%20Rebuild/36axleadjustwithscrew.jpg
rgatijnet1 10/21/20 11:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 suspension upgrades

Before I would spend any money on bolt-ons I would do the basics first. In other words load the coach exactly as it is when you travel with full fuel and fresh water(if you fill your tanks for travel), as well as food and clothing. Then have ALL four corner weighed and adjust your tire pressure according to the manufacturer's specs. The next would be to take it to an alignment shop, while the coach is still loaded for travel, that can deal with motor homes and get a front and rear axle alignment or a thrust angle alignment. Some shops will tell you that your rear axle is not adjustable when they DO NOT have the equipment available to set the trust angle on an RV chassis. It can be adjusted. After you have done these things, and you still are not happy with the way the coach drives, then try some add-ons, one at a time. Tell us how you adjust the rear thrust angle on a gas chassis with no provisions for adjustment? The spring hangers are bolted to holes in the frame, the spring draw bolt head aligns with a hole in the axle tube. There are no cams, no adjustable rods, etc. Richard The rear axle is attached to the springs with U-bolts that can be loosened to allow the axle to be moved as necessary to get it in to perfect alignment. You don't move the springs but the rear axle itself can be moved. Here is a link to Brazels which gives some details on the services they offer. There are other alignment shops that have the ability to give a gas or a diesel pusher RV a 4 wheel alignment. Brazels 4 wheel alignment on a gas chassis Here is another link: FMCA alignment Here is another place that can do the alignment as can any shop that has Hunter equipment designed for thrust angle alignment: Hendersons Another place: Sunshine Service
rgatijnet1 10/21/20 06:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: spartan says they don't carry it looking for radiator

Any good radiator shop will dismantle your old radiator and keep the upper and lower tanks and mounting brackets. Then they will replace the core with an off the shelf unit to replace your old radiator core. The problem is that most shops cannot deal with an RV so you must remove the radiator and take it to them.
rgatijnet1 10/20/20 04:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 suspension upgrades

Before I would spend any money on bolt-ons I would do the basics first. In other words load the coach exactly as it is when you travel with full fuel and fresh water(if you fill your tanks for travel), as well as food and clothing. Then have ALL four corner weighed and adjust your tire pressure according to the manufacturer's specs. The next would be to take it to an alignment shop, while the coach is still loaded for travel, that can deal with motor homes and get a front and rear axle alignment or a thrust angle alignment. Some shops will tell you that your rear axle is not adjustable when they DO NOT have the equipment available to set the trust angle on an RV chassis. It can be adjusted. After you have done these things, and you still are not happy with the way the coach drives, then try some add-ons, one at a time.
rgatijnet1 10/19/20 11:47am Class A Motorhomes
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