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 > Your search for posts made by 'rk911' found 716 matches.

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RE: extended warranty

if you’re paying cash for the EW then use that as the initial deposit for a maintenance &repair fund. you beat the long offs and made out once, you’re unlikely to come out ahead a second time.
rk911 09/16/19 05:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Newmar Sold

Not the end of the world, I have a Newmar. you mean...you already have yours. i WAS a big fan of Winnie but after all the problems i’ve had with our latest winnie MH i have to wonder what the impact on Newmar will be going forward.
rk911 09/16/19 11:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Vent fans and a/c at the same time

It would suck cool air out. I’d just run a small fan pointing up. agree. cold air falls but that ceiling vent fan would likely grab it before the air would reach the floor. we have two small fans running with the AC...one up front and another in the back.
rk911 09/15/19 03:51pm General RVing Issues
RE: Do you use a cargo trailer?

Do you tow a cargo trailer? I was thinking about getting one for an atv and misc things. Might be nice for extra water, a nice barbecue, fishing and hunting gear, and tools. watch your weights. in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following: - the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH (defined as the sum of the actual weights on each axle) as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.) - the weight rating of your tow bar - the weight rating of your hitch this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs as it is loaded and configure for travel before choosing a toad. Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc.
rk911 09/15/19 02:38pm General RVing Issues
RE: What does tire date code '5317' mean?

new math
rk911 09/13/19 03:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Tow Dolly VS flat tow

lots of dolly vs flat posts on rv.net as well as irv2.com...check the archives. in a nutshell... - you first need to calculate the total amount of weight you can safely tow. with a dolly you need to include the weight of the dolly in that calculation. - one less set of wheels to deal with at the campground. - easier to hookup and disconnect in the rain - virtually no tongue weight on the hitch. - but you do have a larger selection of vehicles to choose from. that's about the only positive that i can see. we flat tow and recommend it.
rk911 09/10/19 03:03pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Towing

If you get into an accident while towing that much over your weighted limit your insurance company will probably tell you to get lost !! Granted, they may tell you to get lost, if they even have a clue as to weight being a factor or for maybe not wanting to renew your policy next time, but they will have to pay, regardless. civil suits can be filed by anyone for any reason anytime. but knowingly towing 1400-lbs overweight could be called an ambulance chaser's retirement plan. OP, you do what you want. the fact that you're even asking indicates you have doubts. good luck and be safe.
rk911 09/10/19 02:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel economy

i drive the speed limit or 65, whichever is lower. we typically fill up our gasser at Flying J regardless of price, convenience is the priority. if not the J then the priority is still convenience...looking for EZ in/out whether it be another truck stop or traditional gas station. price of fuel doesn't really play a part.
rk911 09/09/19 10:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tires

You may pay a little more but you will never be sorry you bought Michelin. Shop around. X2!
rk911 09/09/19 12:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing

is this a one-time thing or will you be doing this on a regular basis? either way someone will likely be along to tell you towing 1400-lbs overweight is ok. i'm not that guy. can you pull the truck? sure. but can you stop as quickly as you could if you were towing nothing or a 3500-lb truck? nope. the brakes on your MH are engineered to stop the GVWR of your MH. even with an aux braking system your braking distance will be dramatically lengthened. you're going to stress the suspension, hitch, possibly the tow bar itself if it's not rated for the weight of your truck. weight ratings exist for a reason. you can probably get away with it once, maybe more, but IMO it's like playing with matches. all that being said i do have a good friend who towed a park model from northern illinois to northern wisconsin with a 6-cyl pickup. this was 30-odd years ago so i don't recall the specifics but i recall him telling me that it was quite the experience and he was glad it was a one-time thing. we were all young and dumb at one time. most of us survived. my unsolicited advice is the same i gave my good friend...please think twice about doing this. good luck.
rk911 09/08/19 08:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dish newbie

You could probably find a lot of stuff on youtube. that’s an excellent idea. i always forget about the ‘how to’ videos on YouTube. Bill’s advice to raise the sat dish and see which birds it finds is also spot on. be sure you’re dish is clear of trees to the South/Southwest. The ‘Dish For My RV App’ is useful for determining if your dish can see the sats.
rk911 09/08/19 04:15pm Technology Corner
RE: Dish newbie

The odds are 0 that the installer will know anything about the RV system. I would bet they will not even touch the RV installation, and tell you to take it somewhere to have the equipment installed. well, not zero but not great. i’ve run across some with RV experience. but your first hurdle is determining if the sat dish is DISH of DTV.
rk911 09/08/19 03:49pm Technology Corner
RE: Dish newbie

you likely have a Winegard Trav'ler sat dish. your immediate issue is if the Trav'ler is rigged for DISH or DirecTV. any clues from the previous owner like paperwork, manuals, etc? worst case if it is rigged for DTV it can be converted to DISH. there should be a control box in one of the overhead cabinets. manuals are online. reach out if you have other questions
rk911 09/08/19 03:16pm Technology Corner
RE: Looking for Fridge Suggestions

i agree but the "murphy" in me suggests you continue to plan to replace it when and if failure occurs. pre-planning now will save grief and anxiety later. purchasing anything in a hurry is never a good idea. we have a Westinghouse french door/lower freezer but it is too big for your space.
rk911 09/08/19 12:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Hot Springs, AR to Tucson, AZ

i'd want to get south as fast as possible in December. I-30 to Texarkana and then, depending on weather and local road conditions, either I-49 all the way south to I–10 or stay on I-30 to Dallas then I-20 and on to I-10.
rk911 09/08/19 12:41pm Roads and Routes
RE: Good Sam credit card fuel limits

I've heard it both ways. and I've never run into a gallon limit...the limits have always been in whole dollars...usually $50 or $100.
rk911 09/07/19 01:09pm General RVing Issues
RE: Reversible Vent Fan

our FF moves air in both directions. we rarely have it pull air in.
rk911 09/06/19 06:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Chatanooga bound

If we set Chatanooga as our destination, what are best things to see and do and where is the best place to set up our rig? been a long time since we were in Chattanooga. the Chattanooga Choo Choo is fun and we enjoyed Lookout Mountain.
rk911 09/06/19 01:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Annual maintenances: wise, necessary, waste of money?

...With all that in mind, is it wise, necessary or a waste of money to get the following things done on yearly basis: Wash and wax with a UV roof protectant. ~$220 Campingworld 45 point inspection ~$300 Maintenance on the water heater. ~$85 Maintenance on the AC. ~$100 Maintenance on the furnace. ~$149 Maintenance on the breaks and bearings. ~$300 ... we've never had a TT but annual maintenance on a MH and TT must be pretty close. my thoughts... - wash/wax: at least once a year assuming you have a fiberglass body. every 6-mos would be my recommendation. - personally I would stay away from CW service. what exactly is covered in their 45-pt inspection? if they're just looking at stuff and making a list of things that need repair or further maintenance then $300 seems way high. but as I said I would find another shop. if you have the list please post it or a link to their list. - as for the AC, water heater and furnace...there's not much actual maintenance that needs to be done. change or clean the air conditioner/furnace air filter(S); inspect the water heater for spiders and webs (they're attracted to propane), if it's a dual ignition inspect the wiring and connectors to be sure they're clean and fitted properly, you might want to flush the water tank with the appropriate tool although while doing that can't hurt I haven't found it necessary. I'd like to know exactly what "maintenance" is being done on those three items for $334. sounds very high to me. don't know about TT brakes and whether they need actual service or just an inspection. anyone?
rk911 09/05/19 03:11pm General RVing Issues
RE: Are my A/C's working correctly?

the only way you're going to be comfortable in 100-deg temps is to... - use one of two types of windshield sun screen...externally mounted permitting you to see thru the windshield or internally mounted creating perpetual night inside. either will reduce interior heat well. we've had both and prefer the externally mounted types. - use a couple of small fans to circulate the cold air. cold air sinks. you'll be more comfortable by moving the air around. - when possible park facing east or north. that will reduce direct sunlight on the windshield which acts like a radiator. - on *especially* hot days bring in the slides. that will reduce the sq. feet that need to be cooled. the same applies to *especially* cold days or nights when heating the coach.
rk911 09/04/19 04:44pm Tech Issues
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