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RE: Mini Winnie needs major work

If all you really want is the generator, I would ask him for it. If you were in the Chicago area, I would ask to donate the rig to Our Church's CARS Ministry. They would come and get it as-is. They would likely get it running and safe to drive, then put it up on eBay HERE. I have served as a volunteer mechanic and leader in that ministry for 23 years now. They do great things helping the under resourced with reliable transportation.
ron.dittmer 05/25/20 09:42pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: tapping the top of awning to project it from the sun

Has anyone looked into that FlexTape product advertised on TV? They claim it performs miracles. I wonder if it is as good as some of the other ideas shared.
ron.dittmer 05/20/20 03:12pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2021 Ford E-Series No V-10

A close friend of mine is a Ford technician. He said the 6.0 diesel was a great engine to earn a living from. He said it was a severely flawed design. Most were installed in pickup trucks, but there are some E450s with them. DO NOT own one for you would soon regret it because the repair does not last. Adding that the engine never had the reputation in other ways compared to other diesels. It was a poor performer and not as good on fuel as hoped. It rated poorly in every category. The V10 had it's issues in the early years, most notably was the lack of threads in the heads for the spark plugs. I heard there were only 4 threads, later doubled to 8 threads in 2003 or 2004. It took that long to get that simple problem addressed properly. GM's track record isn't any better. I personally would be uncomfortable to have a recently introduced engine, especially working it so hard as in a motor home. We also keep our motor homes 4 times longer than a car. So whatever we buy, any design issues would be with us for a very long time.
ron.dittmer 05/20/20 04:45am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Nexus Viper Class B+

I wasn’t concerned with the leaks as much as I was on what caused the damage. I’m not looking to buy that one anyway. Not sure how it could have got damaged in three different parts of the back end, without it showing some time of impact point. I told the guy I wouldn’t be worried at all if it was obvious collision damage, but that wasn’t so obvious.One would hope they backed that rig into something that caused the damage. Cracks developed from simply driving the rig would be concerning. That would imply a lot of "flexing" of the house is occurring. In that comparison video I shared higher up here, Phoenix pointed out that their competitor mounted the walls to the sides of the floor. The walls do not rest on the floor. They rest on the mounting hardware. That construction method could be the cause of excessive flexing of that back wall, creating those cracks.
ron.dittmer 05/20/20 04:34am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1997 Class C Winnebago, 47,000 miles too old to buy?

Ron, My 2005 has disk brakes. I've replaced the rear brakes 3 times since 2009. I've driven it about 120 miles and I try to avoid using the brakes when ever possible.5Rear disk brakes became the standard for the E350 a few years after 1997, maybe when the E450 was introduced.
ron.dittmer 05/19/20 06:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1997 Class C Winnebago, 47,000 miles too old to buy?

I did my due diligence and read the FAQ and also did a search I am looking at a 97 Winnebago Minnie Winnie with a ford engine with 47,000 miles on it. It looks great cosmetically and drives good. But I know this is the tip of the iceberg and it will require a thorough inspection. It is my first RV. I’d take it across country. I know it depends on a lot of factors but is there a rule of thumb that says RVs shouldn’t be older than.... Thx guysThere is no rule of thumb with age. If it smells good inside (no moldy smell) and there are no water stains on the interior walls, especially in the cab-over bed area, then at the right price, that rig might be worth considering. Given the rig is a 1997, the Ford chassis might have the older V8 engine, or the later V10 engine. The older V8 gets worse fuel economy and are prone to exhaust leaks where the manifolds bolt to the engine. The manifold bolts like to break. The V10 engine that replaced it is a much better engine with improved fuel economy and reliability. Since you mentioned going cross-country, know what to expect concerning fuel consumption. You did not mention the length of the rig, but back in 1997, the E450 chassis did not exist. So if that rig exceeds 25 feet in length, it may sag a lot in back when you are loaded for a trip. Unless a previous owner addressed that problem, plan on adding a leaf spring or two in back per rear corner. Also heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars and heavy duty Bilstein shock absorbers. Going cross country with these things addressed will make your cross country driving experience much more comfortable and safe. If you buy that rig, you will surely want to adjust the rear drum brakes so the shoes are right there at the drums with a free-spinning slight drag after you pump the brakes. Otherwise the front brakes will work exceptionally hard, and the rears won't contribute adequately. Trust me on that, I know from personal experience with my previous motor home. It is a night/day difference in safety, especially noticed in mountain and canyon driving. If that chassis is not equipped with 4-wheel anti-lock front brakes which I believe to be true, the front brakes will lock up and skid when slowing down in the turns. Think about that nightmare. The rear drum brakes work exceptionally well, but only if adjusted properly for maximum performance. With 4 tires in back, they will stop that rig very nicely without skidding, especially because of the weight on those rear tires.
ron.dittmer 05/18/20 06:41am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Nexus Viper Class B+

.....I was looking at one they had in stock and at first noticed the seams around some of the fiberglass parts around the rear bumper had pulled apart. Upon looking further I found the top rear fiberglass cross member completely cracked through and the same on a side cross member. The sales guy seemed pretty honest and he didn’t know what happened to it. That did concern me a little because I could no see any direct impact marks, but it did look like it could have been collision damage. But it was odd that one crack was on the very top, one was on the right side, and the other was lower left around the bumper. I’m not sure what somebody would have run into that did all that, and yet didn’t leave an obvious mark that it hit something. That does worry me a little because it’s also possible it just broke in all those places when the driver hit a bump or something.On the Viper, it appears that all those back wall protruding sections are installed after the rear wall is completed. If you removed them, you might have a generic looking back wall, of coarse without all the fixtures. My point is that none of them are structural, and any water getting inside through those seams and cracks, likely will not get directly into the interior. Still they should be repaired properly to protect the fixtures and "limited" water infiltration through drilled holes. Here is a picture of the rear wall of a Viper. https://cdn.dealerspike.com/imglib/v1/800x600/imglib/Assets/Inventory/7B/4F/7B4F5B82-6B74-4C4E-888C-53C468700EED.jpg width=640
ron.dittmer 05/15/20 07:54am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford E-350 battery questions

I disconnect my chassis battery when the vehicle is being stored. The only trouble with that is when I have to go in for a smog test. I have to drive the motor home for an unknown amount of miles before the computer no longer thinks it was just reset. The smog people won't pass a vehicle that was recently reset.
ron.dittmer 05/14/20 10:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Nexus Viper Class B+

The actual measurements of the 27 foot Nexus Viper is actually 28.5 feet. Like yourself, I have read some serious negative reviews on the Nexus line. Just down the street from the Nexus factory is the Phoenix Cruiser factory. PCs are scaled-down by design to make them more friendly to drive and maneuver. CLICK HERE to watch a You Tube video that compares a Phoenix Cruiser to a similar floor plan of what they refer to as Brand-X. I recognize Brand-X as a Nexus Viper. A lot is nit-picky trivial stuff, but there are some serious matters too.Only problem with the Phoenix’ Cruiser is the price. Yeah, I understand you get what your pay for, but they want almost a much a DP for that. Also they only do factory direct sales don’t they?Yes and no. There is also a dealer network now, primarily east coast. Lots of people say the same thing concerning the price of the Phoenix Cruiser. They buy "used" and most are very happy with their decision. The prices have gone up the past 3 years, so a 4 year old used one sold by owner will be much more affordable. That is unless they learned of the price hike.
ron.dittmer 05/14/20 08:09am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Nexus Viper Class B+

The length of the 27 foot Nexus Viper is actually 28.5 feet. Like yourself, I have read some serious negative reviews on the Nexus line. Just down the street from the Nexus factory is the Phoenix Cruiser factory. PCs are scaled-down by design to make them more friendly to drive and maneuver. CLICK HERE to watch a You Tube video that compares a Phoenix Cruiser to a similar floor plan of what they refer to as Brand-X. I recognized Brand-X as a Nexus Viper. A lot is nit-picky trivial stuff, but there are some serious matters too.
ron.dittmer 05/13/20 09:12pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best Class C for the money

Yes we will need sleeping quarters and for just the two of us and most of our usage is travelling. Yes will need a toad.Then get a B+ with a main floor double or queen bed. Main floor twin beds are also very popular. They all come in many different lengths from 24 to 32 feet long. Our rear corner double bed is under 24 feet long. It is tight sleeping but we manage well with it. We also tow a Jeep Liberty. Click on my signature if you are curious.
ron.dittmer 05/12/20 09:23am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best Class C for the money

Do you "Require" the sleeping quarters above the driver area? If not, then narrow your selection to the B+. With a few rare exceptions, the cab-over bed (as they are called) of a conventional class C are most troublesome with regards to water infiltration. That would be the single biggest "reliability" issue concerning the house itself. About the chassis, Chevy, Ford, Mercedes, they are all reliable.
ron.dittmer 05/12/20 08:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Anyone here upgraded their headlights?

Thanks for the tip on polishing the headlight lenses, Ron! I went back to the auto parts store to see if I could buy an entire headlight but it was closed. I expect, if available for a 2004 one it will be very expensive.Hi Harvey51, You won't be able to buy a new lens at an auto parts store. Your best place to look is an on-line seller. You really don't need a buffer to make the lens clear as glass again. You can do it by hand. But it will take roughly a half hour to 45 minutes by hand compared to 5 easy minutes with a buffer. If the Ford head light lens has stubs sticking out forward, then the buffing process by hand or with a buffer, will be more difficult.
ron.dittmer 05/03/20 06:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Anyone here upgraded their headlights?

Like the OP, I too am getting old and require more light for night driving. Here is my experience with brightening up headlights. I hesitate on switching to LED bulbs because some vehicles have trouble with LED headlights. If your headlight lens is not clear as glass any longer, if having trouble seeing the detail inside, then you really want to polish the lens. It's not hard to do, especially using a polisher/buffer tool of some kind. This is another vehicle I own, but the problem is the same. You want to turn this..... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49849417428_d496c2e5de_z.jpg width=640 into this..... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49850021986_630f47a6f1_z.jpg width=640 using this..... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49850329907_6ba4cbe670_z.jpg width=640 In the given example, I removed the housing and polished it while holding it in my hand, using the buffer in the position shown resting on the floor. It is best to remove the housing and polish it off the vehicle for best results and to avoid damage to surrounding paintwork. The process is not a cover-up or band-aid solution. It makes the lens like see-thru glass again by removing oxidized material using a very fine abrasive compound. The example pictured also has some stone chip damage. Anything you can feel with your fingernail will remain. Buying a new lens is the only way to make them go away. Next is the selection of your headlight bulb itself. Brighter halogens are sold at places like Walmart and they do make a difference. Here is one example for a 2007 E350 Super Duty, bulb 9007. The trade-off is that the brighter bulbs don't last quite as long as the standard ones. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//2503/large/5080129_syl_9007subp2_pri_larg.jpg width=500
ron.dittmer 05/03/20 07:00am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C built in propane tank.

"And there you go" https://s3.r29static.com/bin/entry/504/888x466,85/1566059/image.webp width=400 PS: I am married to a Greek woman.
ron.dittmer 04/14/20 06:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Looking to purchase used class c rv - first time buyer

Hi Nakaman, This is a long read, but read through it carefully. Ron Dittmer ------------------------------------------------------------ New, used, or well used, when shopping for a conventional class B+ or C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and also the punishment of the road. Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is. When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with "Eye Candy" and "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home. #1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.5 times the cost of Second Best) NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are not common and have a limited selection of sizes and floor plans. #2 SECOND BEST Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA. Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for. a) Structural Seams Away From Corners When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a endless series of earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lesser stressed areas. b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven making it common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is an example, one of many water-damage threads I have read. Scroll down in that thread to see pictures of the real damage. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with the most vulnerable seam work. There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. The Itasca Navion is a fine example. If your requirements are to have a large class-C with a massive over-van bed, the best example I seen was this Fleetwood Tioga model offered around 2008-2009. It is unfortunate all class-Cs don't practice seamless cab-over area construction for it would greatly improve the class-C industry. Increasing in popularity by many manufactures is a shallow bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Triumph is one such example. This shallow bucket design is a reasonable compromise. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful. c) A Crowned Roof Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons. d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing A single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected. e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow rectangular cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work. It helps in keeping the house together. Don't be fooled. Some manufactures add rear wall sectional styling which gives the appearance of a 5-sided pan design. Though not as desirable, they are still an improvement because all the holes for lighting and such are not in the structural wall where water could otherwise get inside the house. You can easily tell by noting the sections & seams between them and the flat back wall that remains exposed. CLICK HERE to see an example. f) Walls Are Either Resting On The Floor Or Bolted Against It Common sense would say the walls should rest on the floor, but some manufactures actually bolt the walls into the side of the floor framing. This means the weight of the roof and walls (and everything hanging on them) rests on mounting bolts. How well will that method hold up when being driven for so many thousands of miles? Checking for this is very difficult. It takes a trained eye for sure. CLICK HERE for an example of it done right with the walls resting on the floor. Bigger Will Be Weaker The size & floor plan you select MUST FIRST meet your needs before this consideration. The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the exact same corrugated material. The smaller box would naturally be stronger. It will be more resistant to bending, twisting, and other types of flexing. So if you are on the fence between models, the smaller one will be your stronger choice. Potentially Troublesome Construction Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner. There are also the rare exception of the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best A Caution Concerning Slide Outs Slide outs are most popular. Everybody loves the extra floor space they provide. There are so few motor homes made without at least one slide out. Unfortunately slide outs can introduce risk of water damage to the main floor around them. Good seals work when the rig is young, but can loose their ability to seal properly as they age. When looking at used rigs with slide outs, closely examine the main floor around each one. If you can lift the carpet adjacent to the slide out and see the wood floor is a gray color, that is a sign that water gets inside. Also, completely open the slide out and step on the main floor adjacent to the slide out. If it feels soft, the plywood or chip board material underneath likely requires replacing. About The Chassis The most popular is the Ford E350 and E450 with the V10 engine, and this year Ford replaces that 6.8L-V10 with a larger, more powerful 7.3L-V8. The Ford Transit diesel and the Mercedes Sprinter diesel are popular alternatives to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM 3500 & 4500 chassis are not popular but are a very good choice for the right application. Any of the chassis mentioned made since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Transit and Sprinter will be least powered. People who tow with them naturally take it slower. I am not sure a Transit can tow anything significant. That needs further research. If considering a recent “small” class B+ or C motor home, here is a comparison between the two current main chassis contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine. Advantages Of The Mercedes Sprinter With Diesel Engine - Offers a 35%-50% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically. - More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room. - Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride. - A grander view out the windshield - Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to. Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine - Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $24,000 MSRP cheaper - The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque - The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight. - The E350 is able to tow a heavier load. - The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability. - In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel - The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America - The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping. - This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions, you are low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford offers a great backup system. The V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues. You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Navion and View. The Ford Transit Chassis This chassis is increasing in popularity in the smallest sizes. According to Ford's website, the Transit DRW chassis is offered in the 156", and 178" wheel base, and is rated as high as 10,360 GVWR. Ford offers a motor home package specific for the RV industry. It's diesel engine compares to the Sprinter in power and fuel economy, but is more affordable and is easily serviced at Ford service centers, just like the E350 & E450. The cab has a lower stance than the Sprinter making it much more friendly to get into and out from for people in their later years. Entering and exiting is more like a mini-van rather than a standard van. The Transit's lower cab also offers roomier over-head bunks that are easier to access. The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away Chassis This front wheel drive chassis is another recent entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range in a B+ or C. This chassis does seem to be a good option in the "B" motor home market. The Chevy 3500 & 4500 Chassis Unfortunately this chassis is not more popular, primarily because GM sort-of gave up on competing with the Ford E350 & E450. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches in storing your rig, the Chevy is a little longer than the Ford by a number of inches which was critical for us with our garage as seen HERE with our Ford 2007 E350 rig. That could be the reason why the Chevy has a little more interior driver/passenger leg room. The Ford E350 & E450 The majority of class B+ and C motor homes are built on one of these two chassis for a number of very good reasons, and with the changes in recent years to the engine and transmission, the good reasons increase. They have more power and load capability than the others. Ford approves outfitters to modify the chassis to increase or decrease the wheel base which supplies motor home companies a lot of design freedom. Ford has off-the-shelf components that work with the wheel base modification. So if you need a new drive shaft, fuel line, brake line, parking brake cable, wire harness, whatever, Ford has them available. Finally, the E350 and E450 chassis is competitively priced. Engine Power Ratings of Ford, MB-Sprinter, Chevy, and Dodge Ford E350 & E450 - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft (7.3L-V8 starting in 2020) Ford Transit Diesel - 3.2L-I5, 185hp, 350ft Mercedes Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft Chevy 3500 & 4500 - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft Dodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds) Now to supply some data as to why I feel our Phoenix Cruiser stands above most other brands. These two videos drag on, but provide lots of data and also clarify critical things to look for when evaluating any brand. CLICK HERE on a comparison between a Phoenix Cruiser and an undisclosed brand. I think it is a Nexus. There is a lot of nit-picking but is notable when adding it all up. It is also educational on what makes a better motor home...of coarse at a higher price too. CLICK HERE for a slideshow on how a Phoenix Cruiser is built. I feel this slide show teaches so much, especially about hidden things that unsuspecting buyers would never think about.
ron.dittmer 04/10/20 07:00am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C built in propane tank.

I would remove the tank and evaluate it's structural condition. If the rust is everywhere but superficial in penetration, I would find a local shop to sandblast it to bare metal. Before giving it to them, first remove all valves and hardware and cap all holes that enter the tank, maybe using the old parts to cap the holes. Once it is back home, brush and roll on a coat of clean metal primer and two coats of paint. I trust the Rustoleum brand most. Then install all new valves and such. In theory, the cost for rebuilding the tank properly doing it yourself with consideration for the sandblasting process, will be very affordable. In my mind, that would be doing it right. Or spend that $500 on a new propane tank that likely has variations from your 22 year old original one, making an the installation full of compromises.
ron.dittmer 04/08/20 07:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacement for Onan 4000

I have lots of carbureted 4-cycle engines around the house from an 18hp lawn tractor to an 8hp roto-tiller, to a 10hp snow blower. I never have trouble with them sitting around for extended periods. I apply the same to my 4-cycle Onan which also never gives me trouble. I just don't understand why everyone else has so much trouble with their Onan sitting without starting so frequently. It must have something to do with sitting outdoors, or they don't know how to prime it after so long of a period. Mine 4-cycle engines are all stored indoors which I am sure is influential, but still.........
ron.dittmer 04/05/20 08:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacement for Onan 4000

On the prime switch. I don't it will work from the start inside, you have to do that from the start switch on the generator itself.Interesting comment. I can prime from inside my motor home using the start switch backwards. If you are not setup for it, then most definitely pull the cover off the Onan and do it there. I would never be able to start my Onan after a long hibernation, if not for the process of extended priming.
ron.dittmer 04/05/20 10:11am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacement for Onan 4000

Hi CodyClassB, I did not read through all the replies, so maybe this was covered. Before spending a penny, before taking the rig in for generator service, first try these two things. #1 - On your Onan, set the altitude adjustment to the proper altitude. It looks like this. https://live.staticflickr.com/7855/47506524422_4e746c0e7f_z.jpg width=640 #2 - Many people don't know how to properly work the "prime" feature. At your generator control panel, be very quiet. To prime the generator, you must push in the start switch in, but in the opposing direction (it is a rocker switch). HOLD it there and listen for any kind of sound. It would be the sound of the fuel pump running. If you hear nothing, have a family member press and hold it while you are outside under your Onan. If you don't hear any hum or buzzing sound, then your fuel pump is not working. Check fuses and such. If your hear a hum or buzz, then your fuel pump works. Then make sure your main fuel tank is at least 1/2 full. People don't realize how long they need to hold in the prime button to get fuel from the main fuel tank to their Onan. Each rig is different pending the distance between them. Prime, prime, prime. I advise to do as I do. Hold in the prime button for 15 seconds the first time and then try to start the Onan. If nothing happens, hold the prime button in for 10 seconds thereafter and repeat until it starts. I never ever run my generator during the off season. I put the rig away in the fall and start everything up in the spring time. A few years, our rig will sit an extra year, and everything always starts right up. I do maintain the batteries during off season. This has been my practice with our rig for 13 years. We do store our rig indoors in a climate controlled environment which I am sure makes some difference. But I never understood all the talk about monthly start-ups and such, though some necessity if the rig is stored in the worst of conditions.
ron.dittmer 04/04/20 07:55am Class C Motorhomes
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