Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'ron.dittmer' found 75 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: MPG for transit based motorhomes

I might have missed it, but not a soul has asked if the Transit is a gas or diesel?? Big difference. Last I heard they still made Transit's in both versions. Am I correct?I don't know why, but Ford replaced the diesel engine with a turbo-charged V6 gasoline engine a year or two ago in their Transit RV-cut-away chassis. I wonder if the diesel is available on "any" chassis any longer.
ron.dittmer 01/14/22 08:00am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 20201 Class C on Ford E-450-Heavy Hood

2007 was the last year of the fiberglass hood on the E-series. We have a 2007 E350 rig with the fiberglass hood and I never considered it heavy. I wonder how the old fiberglass hood compares to the 2008-current steel hood with regards to weight.
ron.dittmer 01/14/22 07:56am Class C Motorhomes
RE: MPG for transit based motorhomes

That is decent fuel economy. Too bad that chassis is offered only with a SRW axle. A DRW would have done the chassis wonders.I've seen this comment regarding this chassis from you before and wonder why. I have read a number of times on various RV forums, comments from owners of Dodge Promaster 3500 based class C motorhomes. They state that they are very limited regarding what they can carry. They are counting each pound. They can't have a 3rd passenger and never drive with fresh or waste water on-board. The basic house with all it's features, simply takes up all the weight margin. Having dual rear wheels in back if only to gain an extra 500 pounds of capability where it is needed, would solve much. I assume the front wheel drive engine and transmission could handle the extra weight of a duel rear axle & springs plus an extra 500 pounds. If not, then I feel the chassis is even more questionable as a cut-away. The class B application (a basic van) is all together different because it weighs significantly less than an outfitted class C. Being front wheel drive, there is no drive shaft or rear differential. The extra under-belly space provides outfitters with more area to utilize compared to a rear wheel drive Sprinter or Transit equivalent. I am no expert on these things. This is only my opinion.
ron.dittmer 01/13/22 07:30am Class C Motorhomes
RE: MPG for transit based motorhomes

My current motorhome is a Dynamax Rev on a Promaster 3500 and gets 15 mpg. I'm hoping to get similar mileage.That is decent fuel economy. Too bad that chassis is offered only with a SRW axle. A DRW would have done the chassis wonders. Someone on the Phoenix Cruiser forum with a Phoenix TRX (2019 Transit chassis, non-EcoBoost gas engine) is reporting 11mpg, non-pampered cruising 65-72 mph, a negligible improvement from our 2007 E350 6.8L-V10 Phoenix Cruiser 2350 HERE, driving under the same conditions. We get a solid 10.5 mpg trip average, no towing, pampered 60-62mph.
ron.dittmer 01/12/22 05:04pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New suspension upgrades

I just bought this 2006 30" winnebago Aspect e450 and it wandered like crazy. I recently added front Hellwig sway bar, Bilsteins x 4, safety T steering. Tire psi 70/60 R-F. Set rear air bags to 50 psi. This has made a world of difference n driving this rig. I will be installing the rear Sway Bar this week. Good for you. Once you get the HD rear bar installed, you will have covered your basis. A 30 footer won't ever handle like a tight SUV, but you with have come a lot closer to that ultimate goal. Our 24 footer with 158" wheel base handles quite nicely with all those suspension upgrades. I have learned over the years that a cruising speed of 60-61 mph is a sweet spot for best-handling which naturally reduces driver fatigue, and also improves fuel economy. At that slower speed, everyone passes us on the interstate highways. I find it especially interesting how the same motorhomes keep passing us at great neck speed. They stop much more frequently so making time isn't working, but they don't realize it. Just slow down, relax, set the cruise control to 60mph, then burn through your large E350 or E450 fuel tank efficiently. Having a comfortable 6-way adjustable driver seat is another key contributor in driving more than 3 hours at a time.
ron.dittmer 01/10/22 06:31am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Differential Service

I wonder how a shop sees metal shavings in the diff fluid when checking. Maybe they sucked some fluid out from near the bottom with something like THIS SUCTION GUN. I use one for adding/filling differential and manual transmission fluids. Good question. Maybe a flexible magnet into the fluid. Metal shavings are common in those types of gear assembles. And when they say shavings think the size of ground pepper or even smaller, more like metal chips/flakes, not what you see when you drill holes in steel.I would describe metal particles in vehicle differentials and transmissions as "black and gray mud" that forms at the bottom. I have seen in new lawn equipment, cheap machinery by comparison, a metallic glistening in the first engine oil change (during the break-in period). That does not describe diff and trans fluids in a vehicle.
ron.dittmer 01/07/22 09:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Differential Service

I wonder how a shop sees metal shavings in the diff fluid when checking. Maybe they sucked some fluid out from near the bottom with something like THIS SUCTION GUN. I use one for adding/filling differential and manual transmission fluids.
ron.dittmer 01/06/22 11:45am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New suspension upgrades

I only got the front sway bar. My shop said they don’t install rears.I find that strange. My brother and I installed a heavy duty rear Helwig stabilizer bar on his 1998 E350 motorhome. It was a lot harder than the front would be but only because we did not drive the rear tires on leveling blocks for improved working clearance. A heavy duty rear stabilizer bar is most effective. I would suggest your shop drive the rear tires on your leveling blocks to help in getting it installed.
ron.dittmer 01/06/22 03:43am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New suspension upgrades

I have done both the Hellwig sway bars and the Sumo springs on a 2016 25B. Put both front and rear sway bars on at 5K miles. Really made difference when being passed by big trucks. I describe it as going from a shove to gentle push. Installed Sumo springs this summer at 38K miles before a trip to Vermont. With the Sumos when a truck passes there is still a push but more like a nudge. Where I notice the Sumos most is there is less side to side rocking when turning in and out of parking lots and other places at slow speeds. The wife says the ride is better when sitting back in the coach. When at the camp site you do not get as much bounce when moving in the coach. As for smoother ride over rough road, after driving thru WV and MD interstate construction, they didn't seem to help much.I have no first-hand experience with Sumo springs, but I wonder if our heavy duty Bilstein-RV shocks achieve similar results under the conditions you mention. When it comes to softening the ride, lowering your tire psi to the actual weight being carried, is most effective. During your weigh-ins, if you learn that your front suspension consistently has a lot of excess load margin, then you might want to consider what I did HERE which helped soften the ride for us and the house up front quite nicely. Our 2007 E350 front suspension originally was rated for 4600 pounds, but our actual weigh-ins have been consistent at 3260 ponds. The 1340 pound difference sounds negligible, but for ride comfort, it is a lot. I replaced the 4600 pound springs with 3750 pound progressive springs which yielded great results. We can still add an extra ~400 pounds on the front suspension before reaching the reduced limit, so if we have some extra passengers, we are still in good shape. But it's been just the two of us for nearly every trip. We've had an extra person with us a few times for short durations, but each person weighed less than 140 pounds. I assume half of that weight of 70 pounds was placed on the front suspension at that time.
ron.dittmer 01/06/22 03:16am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New suspension upgrades

Hi Ron, I ran my front ‘E’ plys at 45-50 psi on my former truck campers for years. I’m also starting to experiment with lowering psi more on my ‘C’. The ride does feel like it bites more when steering, which feels good to me. I’m assuming it has a positive affect with passing big rigs. It feels like it does. Driving behind big rigs with their turbulence can be challenging too. I often back off my throttle to afford me more distance. Happy New Year , BobOur assessments agree 100%. I am a little concerned of soft sidewall motion from lowering the front tire psi so much, but so far so good. That is why I am lowering the psi incrementally. I am considering 45 psi in the front tires during our next trip and see how that feels. And a Happy New Year to you and everyone else reading this.
ron.dittmer 01/06/22 02:57am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New suspension upgrades

As I mentioned earlier, I bought new tires. This is the chart for these specific tires. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51178088551_5de31ee271_c.jpg
ron.dittmer 01/06/22 02:52am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New suspension upgrades

EMD360, if the 22' rv was on a 350 and the 26' is a 450, then that might be why you feel the difference in ride. Maybe ? Regarding potholes, you're driving a truck with suspension to haul a home. It's going to feel a bit rough at times. It has to be stout enough to haul its weight. These mods that we are doing, all may help a bit but at the end of the day...it's still a truck ! My mods included the larger sways, Koni's in the rear, Bils front, steering stabilizer , rear track bar , a good reputable positive caster alignment and I run my psi in my 24 ft class c, a little softer because I'm underweight by 2000 lbs,. I run 75 lbs Rear and 70F. IMO, the rear track bar, which I did at the same time as the shocks, gave the most bang for the buck. That combined with the lower front psi to 70 seems like its offering more footprint on the pavement, resisting be pushed by passing bow-waves. Bob, Great input! Our rig on an E350 chassis is a tad shorter than yours. I weighed our rig during a few different trips to learn that the weight is very consistent. I replaced the tires this year and followed the manufacture recommended tire pressure per the actual weight. To my surprise, I learned that my front tires should be only 40psi and my rears at 63psi. I run the rears per spec at 63 but up front at 50psi because I was chicken to lower it more. Next year I will run a little less in the front tires. When fine tuning psi, you surely need a trusted tire gauge.
ron.dittmer 01/05/22 06:55pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Wind noise question

I had an occasional tapping and found the awning strap the culprit. Dishes I used paper towels or small towels in between the pots and pans. It was pleasantly quiet after that.Now you are getting into general interior noises. It took me years to chase down all the odd noises and rattles. One that was most difficult to quiet down was our microwave oven. The back side of it inside the cabinet, flopped vertically with significant road imperfections. I must have done real good because people who know typical class Cs, are impressed riding in our rig. Generally speaking, a class B+ will have a lot less front cab wind noise than a typical C with the overhead bunk. The frontal overhang funnels air around to the side doors where the blunt house walls get in the way of allowing the extra air to pass smoothly. Our rig SEEN HERE addresses the worst of that condition.
ron.dittmer 01/05/22 08:36am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New suspension upgrades

When I bought my only class A (a gasser) it was like riding in a boat. It would dip & lean when turning. Crosswinds & big rigs were a nightmare driving at 60mph. Put Koni-FSDs on it and the rig became a stable platform.I have a similar story with heavy duty Bilstein RV shocks I bought from Tire Rack and installed myself on our 24 foot 2007 E350. CLICK HERE for write-up with pictures. I was afraid they would increase the harshness of ride, but that was not the case. They simply improved stability. I highly recommend them.
ron.dittmer 01/05/22 08:14am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New suspension upgrades

Also install a heavy duty front stabilizer bar and you will be even more stable. Those expensive Koni-FSD shocks are supposed to reduce tiny road imperfections. Significant road imperfections would be no different than with other heavy duty RV shocks. As far as harshness-of-ride is concerned, over-inflating your tires is one cause. Having too much load-margin on any axle is another cause. Our short E350 rig had a very light weighted front axle and an at-load rear axle. I smoothed out the ride up front by swapping front coil springs with ones rated just a little more than the actual max weight. Reducing the weight margin turned out quite nicely. Generally speaking, adding springs and/or airbags to an existing suspension will increase ride harshness. There are replacement suspension systems like Liquid Springs that replace the rear leaf spring packs, but they cost over $10,000 installed.
ron.dittmer 01/05/22 12:43am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Reducing push/pull from tractor trailers passing

Hi Brooks, Everything available helps to some degree all by itself, Everything in combination will help a lot. It is very hard to say if one upgrade by itself will make enough difference. That is why when there is a handling issue, people like myself create a list in priority. If you want to do one at a time, do it in that order. If like me, just spend $2000 installing the list of items yourself, and make the rig handle as best as possible, as soon as possible. 1) Put in the proper amount of air in your tires, per the load carried during a trip. 2) Get a front wheel alignment with your rig loaded as if on a trip. 3) Replace your rear stabilizer bar with a heavy duty version 4) Replace your front stabilizer bar with a heavy duty version 5) Replace your shock absorbers with heavy duty Bistein RV versions 6) Replace your stock steering stabilizer with a heavy duty version 7) Add a rear trac bar I have no personal experience with Sumo springs or air tabs. They might also help. All I know is that items 1 thru 7 together, are very effective for our particular rig HERE. Not only from passing trucks, but the suspension upgrades also improve handling and control, especially appreciated when driving on curvy mountain and canyon byways. The upgrades keep all six tires better planted on the pavement for improved handling and braking. Regardless of where you are driving, the suspension upgrades also reduce driver fatigue and improve passenger comfort. It is also worth mentioning that none of the upgrades I had done affected the harshness of ride. Our rig always drove a bit harsh until I did THIS. I understand Koni-FSD RV shocks can also improve the quality of the ride, but they are quite expensive.
ron.dittmer 01/02/22 12:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Minor alignment issue... but a long story

Isn't it nice to be taken well care of? Last September we had a failure on I-90 west of Gillette WY that left us stranded on the roadside. Keeping the story short, a great tow truck driver towed us to a great Ford dealer Thunder Basin Ford in Gillette who fixed up our 2007 E350-V10 with a new fuel pump control module, some relays, some fuses, and charged only for the module. Everything but the module was free including labor for diagnostics and installation. Who does that in this day and age? We showed our appreciation with very handsome tips.
ron.dittmer 12/24/21 05:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Looking for advice/feedback on a purchase

Hi Kasey, Keep these general guidelines in-mind when considering a motorhome. New, used, or well used, when shopping for a conventional class B+ or C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and also the punishment of the road. Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is. When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with "Eye Candy" and "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home. #1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.5 times the cost of Second Best) NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are not common and have a limited selection of sizes and floor plans. #2 SECOND BEST Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA. Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for. a) Structural Seams Away From Corners When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a endless series of earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lesser stressed areas. b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven making it common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is an example, one of many water-damage threads I have read. Scroll down in that thread to see pictures of the real damage. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with the most vulnerable seam work. There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. The Itasca Navion is a fine example. If your requirements are to have a large class-C with a massive over-van bed, the best example I seen was this Fleetwood Tioga model offered around 2008-2009. It is unfortunate all class-Cs don't practice seamless cab-over area construction for it would greatly improve the class-C industry. Increasing in popularity by many manufactures is a shallow bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Triumph is one such example. This shallow bucket design is a reasonable compromise. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful. c) A Crowned Roof Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons. d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing A single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected. e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow rectangular cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work. It helps in keeping the house together. Don't be fooled. Some manufactures add rear wall sectional styling which gives the appearance of a 5-sided pan design. Though not as desirable, they are still an improvement because all the holes for lighting and such are not in the structural wall where water could otherwise get inside the house. You can easily tell by noting the sections & seams between them and the flat back wall that remains exposed. CLICK HERE to see an example. f) Walls Are Either Resting On The Floor Or Bolted Against It Common sense would say the walls should rest on the floor, but some manufactures actually bolt the walls into the side of the floor framing as ILLUSTRATED HERE. This means the weight of the roof and walls (and everything hanging on them) rests on mounting bolts. How well will that method hold up when being driven for so many thousands of miles? Checking for this is very difficult. It takes a trained eye for sure. CLICK HERE for an example of it done right with the walls resting on the floor. Bigger Will Be Weaker The size & floor plan you select MUST FIRST meet your needs before this consideration. The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the exact same corrugated material. The smaller box would naturally be stronger. It will be more resistant to bending, twisting, and other types of flexing. So if you are on the fence between models, the smaller one will be your stronger choice. Potentially Troublesome Construction Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner. There are also the rare exception of the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best A Caution Concerning Slide Outs Slide outs are most popular. Everybody loves the extra floor space they provide. There are so few motor homes made without at least one slide out. Unfortunately slide outs can introduce risk of water damage to the main floor around them. Good seals work when the rig is young, but can loose their ability to seal properly as they age. When looking at used rigs with slide outs, closely examine the main floor around each one. If you can lift the carpet adjacent to the slide out and see the wood floor is a gray color, that is a sign that water gets inside. Also, completely open the slide out and step on the main floor adjacent to the slide out. If it feels soft, the plywood or chip board material underneath likely requires replacing. Concern Over Bad Plumbing Practices Once in a while, a manufacture of motorhomes will simply Build Bad. 1) CLICK HERE for a picture of the whole house water filter, and CLICK HERE for the water pump, both placed in the same compartment with all the electronics. If anything comes loose and water sprays around inside this compartment, your motorhome is electrcially destroyed. 2) CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE to see hot and cold water plumbing lines being routed underneath the motorhome, completely vulnerable to freezing. Summer camping at high altitude and in Canada will often see temperatures below freezing, with spring and fall being much more threatening. Think about the ruptured plumbing you will forever deal with over this engineering debacle. About The Chassis The most popular is the Ford E350 and E450 with the V10 engine, but Ford recently replaced that 6.8L-V10 with a larger more powerful 7.3L-V8 that happens to be a little more fuel efficient, a win-win for sure. The Ford Transit diesel & gas turbo along with the Mercedes Sprinter diesel are popular alternatives to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM 3500 & 4500 chassis are not popular but are a very good choice for the right application. Any of the chassis mentioned made since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or trailer, be aware that the Transit and Sprinter will be least powered. People who tow with them, tow lighter and cruise slower. Do your research if you have something specific in-mind to tow. If considering a recent “small” class B+ or C motor home, here is a comparison between the two current main chassis contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine. Advantages Of The Mercedes Sprinter With Diesel Engine - Offers a 35%-40% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically. - More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room. - Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride. - A grander view out the windshield - Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to. Advantages Of The Ford E350 with gasoline V10 or the latest larger V8 engine - Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $24,000 MSRP cheaper - The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque - The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight. - The E350 is able to tow a heavier load. - The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability. - In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel - The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America - The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping. - The V6 Sprinter (and Transit) diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions, you are low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford gas engine offers a great backup system. The V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues. You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Navion and View. The Ford Transit Chassis This chassis is increasing in popularity in the smallest sizes. According to Ford's website, the Transit DRW chassis is offered in the 156", and 178" wheel base, and is rated as high as 10,360 GVWR. Ford offers a motor home package specific for the RV industry. It's diesel engine compares to the Sprinter in power and fuel economy, but is more affordable and is easily serviced at Ford service centers, just like the E350 & E450. The cab has a lower stance than the Sprinter making it much more friendly to get into and out from for people in their later years. Entering and exiting is more like a mini-van rather than a standard van. The Transit's lower cab also offers roomier over-head bunks that are easier to access. Ford recently discontinued the diesel engine, replacing it with a gasoline 3.5L-V6 twin-turbo direct-injection engine. This eliminates a lot of diesel-related draw-backs, but I understand the fuel economy is not much better than the E350's large V8. So if fuel economy is your primary reason to consider a Transit, know what you are giving up for only a 10% improvement. Also consider the reliability of a large simple naturally aspirated engine versus a complex twin turbo engine with high pressure direct fuel injection. The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away Chassis This front wheel drive chassis is another recent entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range in a B+ or C. This chassis is perfect for class "B" motor home market because being front wheel drive, there is no drive shaft or rear differential. The extra undercarriage space gets well utilized by the outfitters with more batteries, bigger waste & propane tanks, and other under-the-floor utilities. The Chevy 3500 & 4500 Chassis Unfortunately this chassis is not more popular, primarily because GM sort-of gave up on competing with the Ford E350 & E450. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches in storing your rig, the Chevy is a little longer than the Ford by a number of inches which was critical for us with our garage as seen HERE with our Ford 2007 E350 rig. That could be the reason why the Chevy has a little more interior driver/passenger leg room. The Ford E350 & E450 The majority of class B+ and C motor homes are built on one of these two chassis for a number of very good reasons, and with the changes in recent years to the engine and transmission, the good reasons increase. They have more power and load capability than the others. Ford approves outfitters to modify the chassis to increase or decrease the wheel base which supplies motor home companies a lot of design freedom. Ford has off-the-shelf components that work with the wheel base modification. So if you need a new drive shaft, fuel line, brake line, parking brake cable, wire harness, whatever, Ford has them available. Finally, the E350 and E450 chassis is competitively priced. Engine Power Ratings of Ford, MB-Sprinter, Chevy, and Dodge Ford E350 & E450 - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft (7.3L-V8 starting in 2020, 350hp, 468ft) Ford Transit - 3.2L-I5 diesel, 185hp, 350ft (3.5L-V6 twin-turbo direct-injection 310hp, 400ft) CLICK HERE for Ford Transit and E-Series Motorhome Package Specs. Mercedes Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft Chevy 3500 & 4500 - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft Dodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds) Click on the video below for a slide-show presentation on the construction of a Phoenix Cruiser and turn up your volume. It was made in 2007 and updated a year later. As old as this presentation is, Phoenix Cruisers are still made this way today. I feel this presentation teaches so much, especially about hidden things that unsuspecting buyers would never think about. THE MAKING OF A PHOENIX CRUISER MOTORHOME
ron.dittmer 12/16/21 08:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Wobbly loose mirror arm

A common cause for long Velvac arms coming loose or broken, is a child hanging on them. They can't resist the temptation. I once caught a child grab an arm and about to hang his weight but I stopped him in time. Since then, I always fold the arms in when parked.
ron.dittmer 12/01/21 07:01am Class C Motorhomes
RE: What's a reasonable towed vehicle?

I have a 2011 GMC Canyon, (small size truck), automatic, 4X4. Been towing 4 down approximately 10,000 miles now, don’t know its back there, except maybe going up mountain hills. Has electric pushbuttons to engage 4x4 and/or to disengage the transfer case from the transmission. Like said earlier put transfer case in N, switch to Acc, transmission in P, switch to Off, key out, Done. (the switch to Acc, then transmission to P, switch to off, this series keeps the steering wheel from locking).That is encouraging to read. I thought you had to mess with fuses and worse.
ron.dittmer 11/21/21 03:31pm Class C Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2022 CWI, Inc. © 2022 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.