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 > Your search for posts made by 'ryankenn' found 9 matches.

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RE: Power Sag/Current Issues at Seasonal Site

Two weekends with the Autoformer, and wow. Totally transformed our experience on this site. I no longer hear the dips and strains in all of the appliances, our power bricks for phones are no longer red hot, and we can now toast bagels in only 1.5 cycles instead of 3 lol. Our site the last two weekends has been pretty good, 104 was the lowest I saw, but the lowest I saw inside was 111. I am not sure how it works, but it seems to not attempt to boost unless the pole voltage dips to below about 111-112V, and I never saw any voltage higher at the plug meter than 118V, so I don't seem to have worries it would ever over voltage anything. I built a wooden enclosure for it with venting top and bottom as I did note it gets a little warm. Never hot, just warm. I finally was able to switch the fridge back to shore power and it really helped smooth the temps out, both in the fridge and the trailer. Very happy! Thanks for the help. As a PS, the park had its worst power weekend ever last weekend because of the heat and humidity, people left angry and lots were flipping breakers 6 times a day. Well this week the campsite across from me said the owner and both Ontario Hydro and a private contractor were onsite doing measurements and the idea is over the next two seasons the power is going to be addressed, so I am glad I didn't dump $2500 into this.
ryankenn 08/28/21 08:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Sag/Current Issues at Seasonal Site

Well its been a few weeks of tinkering, and I bought the Hughes Surge Protector with the Bluetooth so I could track the trailer for a full weekend of use. We average about 12kwh of use in 24 hours. The average current we draw is 8A at about 104-108V. I did some testing and with the A/C on we tried the Microwave and saw the 95V at 17.5A. So its obvious we can't do that, but knowing that I went ahead and ordered the Autoformer. Worst case it doesn't work but Amazon's return policy is so good I am not too worried. While I had the Watchdog I used it on my neighbours trailer. He blows the 20A from time to time (I have not yet). He is drawing about 15.5A with his rooftop A/C on, and when the fridge he has on his deck kicks in he see 30A spikes, which is crazy. I am surprised he doesn't blow it all the time. I also ordered a Frigidaire 6K Btu which is far quieter than the stock PD unit, and is far more efficient, drawing 4.6A instead of 6.4A the current one does. I did it more for volume than efficiency but every little bit helps. It arrives the 24th I think, so I will at least post up how it does for me. As an aside, the Watchdog Surge is a very nice unit, very stoutly built compared to the others I've seen. But the phone app is lacking. It keeps track of the total kwh used since on, but has no functions for keeping a log of the voltage/amperage usage, or high and lows when I am not at the trailer. I bought a small $15 Engbird temp sensor for the fridge, and with 2 AAA's and bluetooth it fully logs the temp and can send it to the app when I get back to the trailer. I wish Hughes would do the same for such an expensive unit. I also wish the Autoformer which has surge, also had the bluetooth reporting, because I have to make the decision now whether to keep both which sucks.
ryankenn 08/15/21 04:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Sag/Current Issues at Seasonal Site

Oh wow those babies are pricey! I guess you get what you pay for.
ryankenn 08/01/21 07:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Sag/Current Issues at Seasonal Site

The only issue with controllers like this is the charge circuit is too robust. This unit, even the smallest can draw 60A AC maximum. Being on a 20A circuit I need to limit how much it draws when charging. Since it can run from a generator of questionable voltage I am going to send them a message to see if that input would be more suitable.
ryankenn 08/01/21 06:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Sag/Current Issues at Seasonal Site

Yeah I never thought about the demands of the Autoformer. The most I draw is about 12A's, so I had hoped that the autoformer even though its "30A" if I never drew close to that it could work from 20A to create my 120V. I have found a few inverter/chargers but they all feature auto transfer, so if AC is present it wants to use it. I need to fully isolate, so I may need two seperate units to do it. Renogy seems to have a few options, and a good price ($350) for 12V/200Ah batteries. Because I'd be continuously charging I could probably get away with a smaller bank than needing to run on batteries with no charging or small solar charging.
ryankenn 08/01/21 05:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Sag/Current Issues at Seasonal Site

Well I have some results from the weekend. I found our sub panel, which is in my spot has (4) 20A breakers. There is 10AWG household wire direct buried feeding each trailer. Mine is about 15' from that box to the pole. That panel is fed from a single 40A breaker in a panel about 250' away on 8AWG. I sort of operated the trailer normally. I put the fridge on electricity, had the A/C on Econo and lived normally. When I heard the compressor straining I would check the voltage. On average, with nothing really running its about 117V. With the A/C running its fan only and things like the TV and lights on it hovers around 110V. When the A/C kicks in it drops to 100V. As an experiment (which we don't normally do) I ran the toaster with the A/C compressor going and it drops all the way to 94.5V. I normally turn off the A/C for running the toaster, microwave or coffee maker. We have yet to ever pop a breaker, while my neighbor's all have but have significantly bigger trailers with rooftop 13.5K units, and one guy has a traditional bar sized fridge on his deck. So far the only downside for me is the Norcold fridge has flaked twice while on A/C. Once it showed the error on the display and the reboot fixed it. The second time (this weekend) overnight it just stopped cooling on A/C despite the display thinking it was. Switching to propane solved the issue and overall the trailer seemed much happier in that config. So, is the Autoformer the way to go? I think my max amp draw would be 12-13A, so I assume its boosting would mean I would be drawing 15-16A to the pole so I should be OK still not popping the breaker. It wouldn't be a magic fix since I did see as low as 94.5V which means with help the voltage low would be 103-104V and normally the trailer would run at worst 110V with the booster. I am leaning that way but want input. Here is a pic of the mess at the local box, and one of our spot. https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/f8/97/SCMN9Q3n_t.jpg https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/1c/17/khp8oHt1_t.jpg https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/e3/23/IkM1rS3G_t.jpg
ryankenn 08/01/21 01:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Sag/Current Issues at Seasonal Site

Oh, and yes to that last reply, my site is supposed to be a 120V/30A site, but I can see the pole to the sub is only 12AWG, and that sub feeds three sites and its feed wire looks like 10AWG and has quite a long run to the next sub panel that feeds it, which is totally substandard I am sure. The park is over 50 years old, so its not super surprising.
ryankenn 07/28/21 07:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Sag/Current Issues at Seasonal Site

WOW! This is a forum I can appreciate, thanks for all the replies! First step I guess is I will check how bad the voltage is this weekend. For some of the other points: -its close to our house (less than 20mins) so we like the flexibility of being able to just go home should the weather sour -its $3K a season CAD. With Covid a 1/2 acre lake front vacant piece of land is now $350K and up here, and could be 1.5 hours away. We figure at our age this will be our lake front property, and the shortcomings I am willing to work around. - the park is huge, and we each have large parcel, trailers aren't stacked. We like our spot as it has a water view out front, and water access in the rear, we don't want to move - the park owner is flexible. He has already kicked in for landscaping and is open to put money towards the issue. For him to rewire I couldn't even imagine. Our sub is shared by three spots, and I would estimate it is 750 feet from the large sub that feed our side of the park. It gets hot here, and being a Hybrid, even with the Popout Gizmos the week we left the A/C off it was 40C inside and took hours to cool down with the little window shaker style 8K. We leave it on Econo mode so it just keeps the trailer cool. I have moved the fridge to Propane already, but even just the A/C all on its own is enough to affect the voltage. We have not popped a breaker yet but I will be curious to see how bad it is the weekend when I measure. It sounds like if the droop isn't horrible, the Autoformer would be the best bet. If its horrendous my initial plan was to let the site 120v run a charger that accepts a wide input voltage to charge a bank of 2 or 3 200AH deep cycle batteries, and then use a 3000W inverter to run the entire trailer. That cost would be around $1500 I think, and in Canada that autoformer is $700 anyways so its not the end of the world. I was just curious if it was hard or possible to use batteries to compensate real time but I guess that would be pricey. Having used MPPT stuff for Solar at my house I understand its not the same, but such as this diagram https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5354537ce4b0e65f5c20d562/1581940424613-ZAQ7XUPT9D9PXTMM9WYH/Solar+charge+controller+basic+configuration.png?format=1500w I was hopeful a controller existed that would take a 90-230VAC input where the solar panels on an MPPT go, but perform the same functions everywhere else, charging the batteries, feeding the inverter etc. Basically I would totally isolate myself from the park voltage and only use it to run the charger to charge the batteries. Thanks for all the input, this has been great for a first post. Hopefully the droop is autoformer fixable then this would be simple!
ryankenn 07/28/21 07:49pm Tech Issues
Power Sag/Current Issues at Seasonal Site

We are in our first year at a seasonal site we think we will be staying at long term. Everything is great, but the power. We only have a small Jayco 16XRB but even its 8K Btu AC and fridge prove challenging. I haven't had my meter on it yet but you can tell by the sounds of the fans or AC that either the voltage droops badly or the run on the 12 wire from the looks of it is so long current isn't being delivered as fast as its demanded. Depending on neighboring usage fans will start slow and ramp up. I am looking for ideas on how to combat this? I have setup a solar array at home before, but I don't know what to search for in terms of a device like an MPPT controller, but instead of the panels, that input is line. I would like a bank of batteries to be controlled and charged by the pole 120V (or sagged level its at) and the controller to supplement the supply using the batteries and an inverter so the trailer has steady voltage and good current delivery. I had hoped a device existed but in searching it may be more practical to just have the site run a charging system that keeps a bank of batteries full and I draw from an inverter. Thoughts or experience here would be great. The Norcold has already had one control fault leaving us with spoiled food and the neighbour has had some HW boards and the in trailer 12V inverter board fold because of the same issues and I want to avoid this. Thanks! Ryan
ryankenn 07/27/21 11:49pm Tech Issues
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