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RE: More campers than parks

Maybe some "definitions" are in order at this point? i.e.: 1. What is a Mobile Home park? 2. What is a Recreational Vehicle park? 3. What is a Campground? IMHO, 1. and 2. appear to be getting really mixed up lately whenever we're out and about for recreation in our Recreational Vehicle - whether it be weekends or during the week. I know it's probably expensive to have signs repainted ... but it sure would be helpful to us if many of the "RV Parks" would change their signage to read "Mobile Home Park" so that we would not waste our time pulling in to register for a night or two or three, only to be frustrated with no sites available. :) I agree completely. I think some people that own the land, whatever you want to call it, are starting to think along the same lines that you are. I say that because some of the parks that I was looking at in various cities are now starting to be listed as mobile home parks. Not many but a few. And I was confused because they kept coming up in my RV searches. I called a couple of them and they explained that you couldn't pull in a double-wide but they were long-term RV parks.
stevennlv 11/02/19 10:55am General RVing Issues
RE: More campers than parks

Lot of people full time by choice. When I got a seasonal site on a lake up North 14 years ago I had always dreamed of a cabin on the lake. I quickly realized the expense and maintaining a property for a few months a year wasn't worth it, so I went the seasonal route. The only thing I'm responsible for is the RV. Water, Sewer, Trash, Electric, Property tax, Yard work, and Roads are all maintained by the campground. I know a couple of seasonals there that have a spot there and one in Florida for the Winter and sold their homes. Even with my very modest home paid for I have property tax, insurance and utilities that amount to over 600 a month then add in maintenance on top of that. It would be financially better for me to get another spot in Florida or Georgia and get rid of the home. I just can't do it at this point. I have found the Collies and I can live in a RV very comfortably. Other then the seasonal I keep a couple of RV'S to travel with. With the large expensive of a home and the fact a lot of people can now do their job from anywhere campgrounds are filling up with young people as well as retirees. This makes it more difficult for Weekend Warriors to get spots. Yeah I didn't even get into the younger folks. We've got some that are living in here now that part of their decision to go with an RV was climate change because they believe having a tiny home makes less environmental impact. Whether you agree with it or not a lot of the young people believe in it and I believe that will be a factor in driving this problem even further.
stevennlv 11/02/19 08:38am General RVing Issues
RE: More campers than parks

I think it might have to do the fact that a lot more people are becoming full-timers. A lot of us have never recovered fully from the great recession. That's a big part of why I became a full timer. I live in a mid-range nice park. It has good amenities and is extremely well maintained. It's not high scale or upend, it's mid-range priced. I've been living here about a year. I think we have about 150 spaces. I have not counted but if I had to take a guess I would say roughly 110 of those are long-term full-time residents. I know we have a waiting list for the month leases that's a year long. We have so many long-term families in here that we actually have a school bus stop inside the park. I was looking at maybe relocating. I was spitballing a few ideas on job markets and doing some research. I looked at several different cities in a few different states in the northwest. The parks that appear to be similar to what I'm in now had waiting lists for month leases that ran anywhere from 18 to 24 months. A couple of years ago I was up in Boise. I stayed in a mid to lower end park at the time. It was by far not the worst I've seen but nowhere near as nice as what I have now and significantly cheaper than what I have now. It was not a meth lab / biker kind of place, which I have seen. But it was definitely full of a lot of older trashy units and folks on hard times. Even that park now has a two-year waiting list. My personal opinion is that a lot of people are finally starting to figure out that modern homes are not worth it especially in uncertain economic times. I did construction when I was young. Most stuff built before the 50s or 60s (before my time) in this country was built with durability in mind. I've got a buddy that's a contractor now. He tells me that modern houses are basically just slapped together and are only designed to last 30 years, basically the life of the mortgage. And as soon as you pay it off it's a falling apart piece of junk and you need another one. One example I love, when I was a kid stucco was done with metal lath and a mixture not dissimilar from concrete in texture and "heaviness". Now so-called stucco is thin-crete sprayed over styrofoam and chicken wire. Unless you go all high scale / up end your average track home now is built with no more quality than your average RV. And while both are going to fall apart an RV cost a lot less and if taken care of might even actually last as long as the 30-year house. Even if it doesn't I can buy an RV every 10 years for 30 years and still come nowhere near the price of house that is designed to only last 30 years.
stevennlv 10/31/19 06:13pm General RVing Issues
RE: a paradox

This is just me spitballing, but since RV manufacturers are getting hit yet RVs are still selling sounds to me like everybody's buying used. And the trend does not surprise me one bit. There are a lot of us that have never fully recovered from the great recession. Me being one of them, and that had a lot to do with me becoming a full timer because it's so much cheaper to live this way if you do it right. I am seeing more and more full timer nuclear families with 2.5 kids and a dog in units they just purchased that are 3 or 5 years old.
stevennlv 10/31/19 05:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: More campers than parks

You're in a very populated area. Go north into Oregon or east into Nevada and you'll find all kinds of wide open spaces to camp in and explore. Forget about Idaho, though. Nothing to see there but potato fields. What??? You just killed our spring plans! Twin Falls and onwards.:( Somebody is either full of stuffing or trying to set a decoy and keep everybody away. Pretty much anything north of Boise along the rivers in the summer time is gorgeous. Head up to McCall and check out the hot springs.
stevennlv 10/31/19 05:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: Can I replace a DSI HWH with something (anything) else?

There are serious advantages to DSI water heaters... but one problem which you seem to have (DSI Faults) I had to replace the control board on mine. But to answer your question.. YES. you can replace it There are basically 3 types of water heaters (or 4) 1: Propane only manual pilot light. these have to be manually lit and many folks have problems doing that. and they burn gas all the time (pilot. not much but some). 2: DSI. 3: Tankless (Also DSI however often a better quality). I appreciate the info. Being inexperienced and this being my first DSI I just thought they were junk. But most folks here, and from stuff I've read on the net most other people too, seem to think otherwise. The regulator and pig tails got here today. But the stupid mounting bracket won't be here for 7-10 days. So I'm on hold until then. From my reading it could still be a control board problem even if the electric heater still works. They are supposedly on "separate circuits".(?) But, as I've learned on this project smelling even faint gas around your tanks is not normal. So I want to replace the regulator any way. Hopefully that will fix this too. If not I *may* try doing the board myself. I have mobility issues due to multiple spine injuries. Bending, reaching and twisting into odd, small spaces is not good for me at all. So depending on where my control board is I may not be able to get to it to swap it out. But, one thing at a time. The regulator first. If I have to do the board too from what I've read it's no more difficult than changing out a card in a PC; something with which I am very familiar. If I can get to it. I'll let everyone know what happens with the regulator. If I have to do the board too and can get to it from what I've read I'll go with a dinosaur.
stevennlv 10/30/19 04:19pm General RVing Issues
RE: Can I replace a DSI HWH with something (anything) else?

To the OP; what do you mean by "DSI fault"? There is a little red light next to the switch that is labeled "DSI FLT". When things do not work as intended that light comes on. When I search for that I get a bunch of returns on a DSI Fault that tell me to clean various parts of the system (combustion chamber, etc). When that does not fix it there are a million suggestions on troubleshooting, like turn the stove on before the water heater to "clear air out of the line" or to turn off the electric heater and either bleed the tank or wait for it to cool before turning on the gas water heater b/c if the water is already hot the thermostat/control-board(?) will prevent the gas from igniting if everything is already hot, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc. Last year I had to fiddle with all that junk for about a day, maybe two and the fault finally went away and everything worked for a year. As I get deeper into describing everything, people asking me questions here and I continue to research based on info folks have suggested here I too am starting to think the problems is at some point in the gas supply. So the new regulator and pig tails will be here tomorrow. I ordered them first thing this morning. Wish me luck, b/c if this don't fix it I'm going to have to take it to the shop.
stevennlv 10/29/19 03:44pm General RVing Issues
RE: Can I replace a DSI HWH with something (anything) else?

OK, so IDK anything about this stuff. We all have to learn sometime. I was researching regulators and I found a very interesting comment from someone who bought a Fairview @Amazon. They said that with their old regulator there was always a faint smell of gas around the tanks. After they installed the new regulator that went away. I have that problem too. I've done several leak tests and have never been able to find the source. I thought it was just normal. So I have a new Fairview regulator, mounting bracket and two 12" braided steel pig tails on the way for $100. I've watched the install vid. This is a project I can do. If this does not fix it then it's a trip to the shop. I'll report back to hopefully help the next person.
stevennlv 10/29/19 09:44am General RVing Issues
RE: Can I replace a DSI HWH with something (anything) else?

What is happening with your water heater? Can you hear the gas valve open when it is trying to heat? Can you hear a snapping noise from the spark ignition? The Dinosaur replacement boards seem to be a lot tougher than the OEM control boards. I've had to replace bad factory boards on a couple of our RVs over the years. Never had to go back and replace a dinosaur board. I don't have any help so I can't be outside next to the heater with someone flipping the switch. When I am inside the only sound I hear is the switch clicking. When it did this junk at the same time last year I did all the cleaning then had to play around with turning everything off and on in different orders maybe 2-3x and then it started working and worked for a year. But not this time. I even went ahead and disconnected from shore power just b/c I hadn't tried it yet. It didn't make any dif. If it's going to come down to replacing a control board that is a trip to the shop for me. It's beyond my skill level and I have a warranty. Is there any tests I can do to determine if the problem is the regulator or the control board? Also, when I was going through my trouble shooting I had a different problem for a minute. I was turning everything off and on, etc. One thing I read is that the water being hot in the tank when you are trying to fix this can cause the DSI to not "turn on"(?) and throw a fault. It was recommended to turn off the electric heater (which works, but not as well as the gas when it works). So on several occasions I bled the HW tank so it would fill with cold water. At one point I thought I had run out of propane on the first tank b/c the furnace was not coming on. (My furnace just does not fire up if it is sucking on an empty tank.) So I flipped tanks and it was no problem. Then when I went to fill the propane tanks it turned out that first tank was only half empty. ---------------- Edit: Did I just answer my own question? Would the electric water heater still work if it had a "bad" control board?
stevennlv 10/29/19 07:41am General RVing Issues
RE: Can I replace a DSI HWH with something (anything) else?

This time of year the diaphram in the propane regulator gets stiffer so on a bad regulator it makes it harder for appliances to work I was wondering about things along this line. I did not go into all my troubleshooting. It has been extensive. One of the times I was turning things off and on in different orders I ended with the DSI fault cleared but the furnace would produce no heat. The furnace would come one when the temp dropped and it would blow air, but no heat. So I turned lots of things off and on again until the fault came back and my heat worked as expected. The regulator that I have now is a Cavagna Group 52-A-890-0007 Automatic Changeover Type 924N . I can't find any reviews on it other than the three on the Amazon page saying it's junk and you should not buy it. After looking at some reviews I was looking at a Fairview RV Camper LP Propane 2 Stage Automatic Changeover Regulator . Evidentially they use a lot of really super cheap parts on this thing. Last year, when it was only one year old, I had to replace both the pig tails within a month of each other b/c they both started leaking where the hose was mounted to the coupling for the tank. The folks in the parts dept said they should have lasted a lot longer than a year. Should my next troubleshooting step be to replace the regulator?
stevennlv 10/28/19 06:22pm General RVing Issues
RE: Can I replace a DSI HWH with something (anything) else?

clicky I went to Furrion's home page. They don't have the heater listed as a product that is available. It is only listed as an article, with a link to their media release announcement about it, in a section listed as "test".
stevennlv 10/28/19 03:32pm General RVing Issues
RE: Can I replace a DSI HWH with something (anything) else?

I sure wouldn't do it but you could always replace your DSI water heater with a manual, pilot light version. Thing is, most of this stuff is new to me and IDK what my options are and if they are any better or worse than what I have now. One of the mods linked to a different type of on-demand heater and I'll look in to it. I just want something that is not going to give me two week of headaches every 12 months like clockwork. I'd rather spend a grand or two, if I have to, to replace it and just be done with it b/c I'm a full timer. This is my house. I don't want a hot water that "dies" EVERY YEAR!
stevennlv 10/28/19 03:22pm General RVing Issues
Can I replace a DSI HWH with something (anything) else?

I have a fairly new unit, 2017. It has a DSI hot water heater. I hate it with a passion. It is nothing but problems and headaches. About this time of year, for the last two years, it starts to develop DSI faults. Last year I watched some YT vids and was able to get it to clear after a couple of days of headaches. I cannot get it to clear this time. I have done everything I can think of and tried a bunch of stuff off the web and I cannot get it to clear. I have cleaned the combustion chamber and the igniter. I have replaced the anode rod and flushed the tank. I have let it set with the gas shut off at the tank for hours. I have followed all kinds of suggestions, like resetting / restarting things in a specific order (ie furnace and stove before HW) to "clear air out of the lines"(?), resetting breakers, etc. About the only thing I have not tried so far is disconnecting from shore power. (Would that make any difference?) All I know is that every year, so far, like clockwork it goes to **** after about 12 months of operation and this year I can't fix it; which means unless I get some brilliant advice here then it's a trip to the shop. If it's a trip to the shop I'd just rather replace the entire thing with something far more reliable and easier to maintain. Does such an animal exist (easy to care for HWH) and I can swap one of them out for the hunk of junk I have now? I'm in a Outdoors, Black Rock 20rd, 2017 with a Suburban DSI HWH.
stevennlv 10/28/19 03:09pm General RVing Issues
RE: Annual maintenances: wise, necessary, waste of money?

I appreciate everyones input. I've book marked this topic. When cooler weather gets here in ~4-6 weeks I'm going to take a day or two to go through all this stuff, look at some vids and compile a miniature maintenance manual for myself.
stevennlv 09/10/19 01:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Annual maintenances: wise, necessary, waste of money?

In answer to some of the things brought up. This is the 45 point inspection. Yes, it only checks, but does not fix. ELECTRICAL Hot Skin Test 110V-Circuits-Polarity 12V-Circuits Batteries-House/Engine TV Antenna Operation (Booster) Converter Output Converter Charge All Exhaust Fans Smoke Detector Power Cord Inspected Inverter Output Microwave AUX GENERATOR SYSTEM Oil Level Muffler System Auto Change Over-Operator Run Test - Hertz/Volts PLUMBING Check System for Leaks Water Pump Operation Toilet Operation City Water Intake-CK Valve All Drain ***** Seal on Termination Cap L.P. GAS SYSTEM L.P. Leak Detector Test L.P. Hose(s) Condition L.P. Leak Down Test Leak Check System Set Regulator APPLIANCES Stove/Oven Temperature Refrigerator Operation Furnace Operation Water Heater Operation Roof Air: Front/Heat Strip/Filters Roof Air: Rear/Heat Strip/Filters EXTERIOR Breakaway Switch Operation Brake Control Tire Condition - Visual Roof Condition Vents/AC Shrouds Entrance Door-Gaskets Windows: Gaskets, Crank Handles Tongue Jack Antenna Condition Wiper Blades Shocks/Springs Exterior Lighting My big concerns on that list is the leak test. How often does that really need to be done? Will I smell a leak before I blow up? Also the smoke and LP detectors. But all I have to do with those is hit the test button, right? It's not like a house is it? They're wired in, no batteries and either work or don't? (Do they ever wear out and need to be replaced?) And with these little fire extinguishers that come with the unit: Are they like big ones in buildings and get serviced or do you just replace it after X amount of time? I do keep my tires covered. And when they wash / wax it gets a tire protectant too. I will let someone else do that just because it's a big job and I really don't have the tools to do it properly. I'll pay someone to come to me and do it. I have two axles with Dexter Nev-R-Adjust breaks. I top out at well less than 5500 full loaded. GVRW is 4300 and I'm an extreme minimalist. Besides, there's not a lot of room to cram junk into 20'. I will be honest, I have not put it on a scale. I didn't see the need. I have a 2004 Denali with an 8600# tow capacity / tow package and a weight distribution hitch. I've pulled it from Twin Falls to Boise then down to Vegas with no issues. I can inspect the tires for wear. I can handle stuff that basic. I know my lug size and torque spec. (I need to get a wrench.) Should I just keep track of the mileage and have the bearings / brakes inspected every 5k miles? (I've got about 800 miles on it now.) And that is a combo inspection at CW. Should it also be based on time. IOW, should I have them repacked every 5 years to prevent the grease from drying out or anything like that? Note: I will be sticking with CW for now. Only because I have an extended warranty with them (5 years). And with the shake out bugs that have already been fixed I've actually already come close to breaking even on the cost of it. And I've still got 4 years left. They have to do an inspection first, which is a charge. But if it's a covered repair my deductible is only $50. I know about the anode rod in the water heater. I have DSI. So "annual maint" is just drain it, replace the rod, blow it out with a can of air and scrub the igniter points with a toothbrush? (I learned about most that from YT when I was having a DSI fault.) Stuff like that I can do. And I can get on the roof too. Considering I triple broke my neck I'm actually doing pretty good. I get around well. I even workout a lot with light weights. My big problem is with contorting into small spaces. In the last unit (used) the kitchen faucet broke and there was just no way I could crab around up under the sink to replace it. The ex had to do it. I could get on the roof to service the AC. I just have literally zero idea what is involved. From what you guys are saying it doesn't sound too hard though? I suspect I can find some YT vids to walk me through? How often does the freon need to be replaced? Is there any kind of mechanical service on the AC that needs to be done periodically? Something a pro should do? Every 3-5, whatever years? Or just watch a vid, clean it, get it fixed when it breaks? Anything that has an exterior access panel I can open up and clean. I have not looked at the heater at all yet, other than to stop all the dang wasps from building nests in Boise last year in anything that had any kind of cavity. I even had to kill a nest in the tongue frame up inside / behind the ball socket. When I asked CW about what they do for $150 heater maint it was a long list. Something about cleaning some wheel, ignition points, etc. Is this like the AC? I can get to it from an access panel / remove a cover, it mostly involves cleaning and I can find YT vids to walk me through? It's late. My brain is tired. That's all I can remember for now from what I read before. If I missed anything I apologize. I appreciate the help. ---- Edit: NM the fire extinguisher question. The inspection instructions are on it and it's still good. Oh, and I have a surge protector on the podium. And it has already saved my bacon once when the podium shorted out! It burned the tip of one of the plugs on the protector. But the unit survived the surge.
stevennlv 09/05/19 09:43pm General RVing Issues
RE: "Standard" faucet filter use in an RV?

A faucet with a filter is not going to cause more pressure than a faucet that isn't flowing any water at all, i.e., shut off. OK, when you put it that way it's pretty obvious. But I didn't think about it that way. Maybe I should have had a V8?
stevennlv 09/05/19 09:00pm General RVing Issues
Annual maintenances: wise, necessary, waste of money?

I’m coming up on my third year as a full timer and still learning. This is my second year in this rig. I bought it new. It is a TT, just big enough for me (20’). I’m looking to “protect my investment” so to speak. Not so much as in the value; I know it has and will continue to depreciate like crazy compared to what I spent. (But I got what I wanted.) I mean more in the sense of still being in good, usable, full-timing condition in 20+ years. I am not extremely mechanical. I can handle basic stuff. I don’t move around a lot. I spent the first year in Boise. This year has been spent in Vegas. Most of the time that I move it is to take it into the shop. I had all the “newness” bugs and had to take her in under warranty twice. But she’s ship-shape now. If I move again, other than shop runs, it will be to a new city to follow whatever jobs opportunities and I will stay in a park with at least the basic amenities (water, electric, sewage). I’ve already had to re-caulk all the windows on the side that gets the morning sun. I keep my tires inflated on a monthly basis. Not only am I not extremely mechanical but I also have mobility issues due to a neck injury. So a lot of stuff is difficult for me and I would just rather pay someone with proper skills to do the job right the first time. **IF** the job is actually necessary. With all that in mind, is it wise, necessary or a waste of money to get the following things done on yearly basis: Wash and wax with a UV roof protectant. ~$220 Campingworld 45 point inspection ~$300 Maintenance on the water heater. ~$85 Maintenance on the AC. ~$100 Maintenance on the furnace. ~$149 Maintenance on the breaks and bearings. ~$300 Anything I missed? Any pointers would be appreciated. For example, since I move around so little (like do a 600 miles at one shot and then not move for a year) do I really need the brakes and bearings checked every year, or 3 or 5, etc?
stevennlv 09/05/19 02:36pm General RVing Issues
RE: "Standard" faucet filter use in an RV?

I think the OP is talking about possible leaks caused by the filter creating a restriction and raising pressure. EXACTLY! Spot on. If the water system is in good condition it won't cause any leaks. When you run water now and shut it off the pump runs for a few seconds. That's more pressure than will be generated by a restriction (filter) in the water line. No, it won't blow up. Cool, thank you very much. That's what I was hoping to hear. But I wanted to check in with some more experienced folks before I went and blew something up.
stevennlv 09/05/19 01:57pm General RVing Issues
"Standard" faucet filter use in an RV?

I'm a full timer. I've been using distilled bottled water. I would prefer to use a Pur faucet filter, like the kind used in houses and apartments, where I don't have to go through a lot of trouble. I can just screw it to the faucet, flip a lever when I want filtered water and have easy access to change the filters. My concern is that it will raise the water pressure too high in my systems and cause a leak. My rig is rated for 55psi on the plumbing. I use a manually adjustable flow regulator on the hydrant to keep my static pressure right at 55psi; which gives me a flow pressure right at 50psi. And I actually like the pressure where it currently is. When I research online I see all kinds of comparatively expensive stuff that sits outside and filters all water. I only need it for cooking and drinking. And yes, I do have an exterior sediment filter. But I won't drink unfiltered city water. When researching online I also see a lot of systems that mount under the kitchen sink and require me to change out the faucet. Frankly, I do not want to deal with all of that. I have mobility issues due to a neck injury and I don't want to have to crawl under a sink every few months to change a filter. As far as I can tell a Pur/Britta on tap filter is the easiest and cheapest solution to achieve the filtration levels I desire. The question is: Will it blow up my plumbing?
stevennlv 09/05/19 01:33pm General RVing Issues
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