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 > Your search for posts made by 'stupendous_man' found 15 matches.

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RE: No Power to 7-Way Plug?

I FIXED IT!! Turns out because the previous owner had a rear bumper plug and a side plug, there were separate power wires to stud #1 on the underhood fusebox. When testing power to the stud, I happened to be perfectly positioned to see the other power wire, and when I connected it, the battery started getting charged! Thanks for the help everyone!
stupendous_man 03/03/22 12:47pm Truck Campers
RE: No Power to 7-Way Plug?

When you say, “adding a fuse”, did you add an inline fuse or did you populate the fuse in the fuse box that powers up stud #1? Did you make sure there is power where you connected the wire? Thanks for the reply! I populated the fuse in the fuse box to power stud #1, but I didn’t check if there was power to the wire. I’m not sure how to do that, but I did check the fuse with the multimeter and it was good. To check the power on the wire, would I take a voltage reading with the multimeter with the black probe on the truck frame and the red probe on the power wire while the truck is on?? Yes, but you don’t even need the truck on as stud #1 is on full time. I installed an automatic isolator (solid state) between the stud and the wire. Before that I would pull the fuse in camp so I didn’t run the truck down. You can unplug at the rear bumper easy enough. My truck also has an in-bed plug connected to the harness you mentioned that is stowed behind the cab. Both 7-way plugs are connected to the same place. Ok! I’ll try testing the power wire tomorrow morning and report back (probably the late morning because it’s already past 1am). That’s a slick method with the isolator. I like your budget option too, perfect for a ski bum like me. Good night!
stupendous_man 03/03/22 02:16am Truck Campers
RE: No Power to 7-Way Plug?

When you say, “adding a fuse”, did you add an inline fuse or did you populate the fuse in the fuse box that powers up stud #1? Did you make sure there is power where you connected the wire? Thanks for the reply! I populated the fuse in the fuse box to power stud #1, but I didn’t check if there was power to the wire. I’m not sure how to do that, but I did check the fuse with the multimeter and it was good. To check the power on the wire, would I take a voltage reading using the multimeter with the black probe on the truck frame and the red probe on the power wire stud while the truck is on??
stupendous_man 03/03/22 02:04am Truck Campers
RE: No Power to 7-Way Plug?

Replace the 7 pin....and work your way back to the front..It could be something so simple like a ground wire.....keep at it. You will find the fail. 7 pin plugs go bad all the time..when did you use it last? How did you know you were not getting power to the RV?...I'm stummped here...External charging wire? WHY? have 2x 7 pin connectors? My truck does....but you say your using the rear plug on the rear bumber? This is confusing...if I try to help we all need more detailed info. The TC power is hooked up where? Do you have a battery switch? Connected to the fire wall? For a second plug? When you have two seperate systems that supply power to an RV it is common that the rear bummper plug will be hot while the rig is running but like mine it is split... When you turn off the rig, the bateries are seperated from the RV. I have a 7 pin on the front interior of my truck bed. I have a 7 pin at the hitch. The wiring at the bed connection is beefed up from the factory because I made that tweek to help make the batteries get more power when we travel.. I hope this makes sence..I was running dual 36 Interstates with a 100 watt sollar. All I needed. I am not going to rule this out...but have your alt checked..It is the prosses of elimitation...keep working you will find it!!! Really appreciate you taking the time to make a detailed reply! Should I replace the 7 pin on the truck-side or the camper-side?I bought the camper used, so I haven’t gotten the alternator to power the 7-way at all, but I used the running lights today. I know I’m not getting alternator power to the RV because when I check across the battery terminals with a multimeter, the voltage doesn’t change after turning the truck on. The external wire was something that had me really confused too, but after asking on here it’s apparently a small wire that allows power to run from the truck to the 7-way, but for some reason it’s not connected or fused by Chevy out of the factory, so you have to do it yourself. There sort of is two 7-way connectors, the truck has one in the rear bumper (which I’m using) fully wired up that came with trailer package, but there’s also a bundle of wires under the middle of the truck that you can connect another 7-way to. I had no idea about that one, but I was following the rear bumper connector wires to look if it was broken anywhere and happened to see a wire bundle. By battery switch do you mean the disconnect switch for the camper? I have one of those, but I think there’s also some kind of switch that disconnects the camper from the truck batteries. What is a fire wall? Sorry, I’m still learning all the terminology. It sounds like with two connectors, one is only hot when the truck is on, but the beefed up one is always on? Funny you mention solar because I was just thinking I should just get solar and forget troubleshooting the 7-way! It’s been three weeks of repairs and maintenance with the camper and morale was getting low, so thanks a lot for the encouragement, I really need it!!
stupendous_man 03/03/22 01:59am Truck Campers
No Power to 7-Way Plug?

No Power to 7-Way Plug? Hi all, electrical problem’s got me stumped. I’m no expert so I figured I’d ask some. I have a 2000 Lance truck camper not receiving alternator power from my 2009 Silverado 3500. The truck has the heavy duty trailering package, so the plug is attached to the rear bumper. I went into the fuse box under the hood and attached the external power wire, adding a fuse. As I understand, the truck-side 7-way plug has ground on the bottom left and 12V power on the top right. When I check these with a multimeter, I get 0V. I also have a bundle of wires in the middle of the truck for an additional 7-way. The running lights, turn signals, and brakes all work with the rear 7-way plug. It appears the previous owner replaced and rewired the camper-side plug. I don’t have a lot of experience with RV’s, so let me know if any of this needs clarification. What could be going wrong here? Thanks!
stupendous_man 03/02/22 11:46pm Truck Campers
RE: 2000 Lance 920, Battery Not Charging With Alternator?

Most Lance campers use their own cord to connect to the truck. It has #8 wire for the 12 volt + and - conductors. With this size wire and the short distances involved with a truck camper it should charge just fine. It's not like a trailer camper connected to the stock 7 pin connector which has small wire running to it already. The charge line on a Chevy does not come from the factory connected up. The wire is secured under the under-hood fuse box. It needs to be connected to one of the studs in the fuse box. There is normally not a fuse in there for that stud or sometimes a "dummy" fuse. I have no idea why GM decided shipping the trucks this way was a good idea. With the truck running you should have 13.6 or more volts between the 12 volt + and - pins on the camper connecting cable. If you do and your battery doesn't charge then the problem is in your camper somewhere. If yo don't have voltage there the problem is in your truck somewhere. Thank you! I checked for the wire you were talk about, sure enough there is an “Aftermarket 12V Trailer Power Feed” wire that is not attached to the available stud on the fusebox. There was also a 10A fuse laying inside the fusebox which I am thinking will be used for that stud. Currently I don’t have the right nut on hand to attach the wire, but I’ll connect it up later today and report back.
stupendous_man 02/18/22 05:17pm Truck Campers
RE: 2000 Lance 920, Battery Not Charging With Alternator?

Yes you are getting power at the 12V pin on your truck side socket or yes you are not getting power at that point? I am getting power from the 12V pin on the truck side socket, however it fluctuates between 4-8V. What terminals are you speaking of that you checked . Chevy has a 40a fuse under the hood for a charge line . Do you have power on the charge line at both ends ( truck and camper ) of the connecting cord . I was talking about the battery terminals. I checked the truck 40A fuses, they look unbroken. I have power from the truck end charge line. How would I check the camper end, if it has to be plugged in to the truck to get power?
stupendous_man 02/18/22 03:46pm Truck Campers
RE: 2000 Lance 920, Battery Not Charging With Alternator?

What year , make and model truck It’s a 2009 Chevy Silverado 3500HD SRW 4x4, 6.0L. The alternator is working fine.
stupendous_man 02/18/22 02:34pm Truck Campers
RE: 2000 Lance 920, Battery Not Charging With Alternator?

The charge from a TV to an RV is minimal. Are you sure nothing is coming from the truck? TV = truck? Yes, I just checked with a voltmeter and the voltage across the terminals stays the same. I believe it used to get up to around ~12.56V with the truck on, but I think that difference could have come from the interior lights switching from on to off, which I didn’t account for at the time.
stupendous_man 02/18/22 01:27pm Truck Campers
2000 Lance 920, Battery Not Charging With Alternator?

Hi all, I have a 2000 Lance 920 I recently purchased that is not charging the battery while underway with the truck. Everything is connected securely, the battery is brand new, and things are charging under shore power. The battery is powering the truck with no problems. I’ve inspected all the fuses, which were fine, and looked for any tripped circuit breakers, of which there were none. I also have looked at the wiring harness from the camper to the truck plug. This harness did have some nicks and cuts in it, and a bit of damaged/oxidized wire in those cuts. However, I didn’t see any evidence of a short, as there was no scorching. The cuts were repaired with electrical tape. The running lights are all working through this same plug. Any insight on where to look next, what to try, what to replace, would be greatly appreciated!
stupendous_man 02/18/22 12:24pm Truck Campers
RE: Purchasing Warped Roof 1997 Bigfoot 2500 9’6”?

Just finished checking out the Foot, unfortunately it didn’t go to well. The water damage was severe all throughout the camper. Just about every window, cabinet, and locker had water. Soft spots all over the walls and shell. Powerful, almost dizzying musty smell throughout, along with numerous interior seams pulling apart. Carpeting under the dining table was still damp, and much of the wood was either blackened from water, or just crumbling apart. One of the anchors was cracked, and another was completely separated from the shell. Surely the jack mounts were similar. The sagging roof was probably water damage, as when I squeezed it, water dripped out of cracks in the roof hatch sealant. I offered him $3k and he countered with $6k, but to be honest I didn’t really want it at all after what I saw. Really disappointing, and a lot of expensive lessons. The owner was nice though, and gave me a snow cone.
stupendous_man 12/21/21 11:28am Truck Campers
RE: Purchasing Warped Roof 1997 Bigfoot 2500 9’6”?

Thanks so much for the info everyone. There is truly a wealth of knowledge and experts on this website. Sorry for being neglectful of this post, I read all the input from this forums and others, and thought that the camper had a reasonable chance of working out. So, I began scrambling to get the truck ready and make the drive to Louisiana. I’m passing Texas right now, and expect to get to Louisiana in another two days. It seems that the consensus is that the sagging roof isn’t a deal-breaker, so long as it doesn’t have any associated water damage (it is concerning that the unit is missing vent covers...). However, in new pictures the owner sent, I noticed that the anchors have what appear to be rust on them. I’m not sure what this could mean, as I thought the anchors were fully encased in fiberglass. However, perhaps the anchor pieces themselves are metal, and rust could mean that water somehow found it’s way around there. Any thoughts on this? Pictures attached. If you look close at the second photo, you might see that the anchors don’t look perfectly straight. Could be my imagination though. width=640
stupendous_man 12/18/21 02:06am Truck Campers
RE: Purchasing Warped Roof 1997 Bigfoot 2500 9’6”?

From the pictures, the camper looks pretty nice for being almost 25 years old. Considering how Bigfoot TC’s are made, I think it’s unlikely that’s evidence of water damage. If it was, I would expect to see some signs of water intrusion on the inside around the roof vent. Any stains on the ceiling? Any sign of damage or cracking of the fiberglass shell on the outside? The window seals you circled look like they’ve shrunk and pulled out. If they’re not torn, they may be able to be repaired, or just replaced. A glass guy could probably fix those. :):) :R Let’s Go Girls! :P (End of quote) NRA Benefactor Life Member Lance 1121-Two Awnings, Slide topper, 3.6 kw Gen, Trimetric Batt. Monitor, 1500W Inverter, 40A Redarc DC-DC charger. 2016 F450 6.7 PSD. As far as I can tell, there's no damage to the exterior, but it he did mention it was knocked over onto a bush during a recent hurricane, which meant the front jacks had to be replaced. The interior looks good from the pictures he sent. It is pretty nice shape for the age, but others have pointed out, it seems highly priced. Given the current market, I would expect the resale value to hold, but what do you think a fair price would be? It’s gonna take more than a puddle of water on the roof of a fiberglass shell camper to make me think there’s water damage. There has to be some evidence inside if it’s there, either visible or smells. Look everywhere, sniff everywhere. Remember, water runs downhill. :):) Thanks for the advice, the seller did say the roof was resealed yearly, but I'm going to go in there sniffing like a bloodhound. Could I also ask you for your opinion on the asking price? Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't BigFoots build with fiberglass shells? Water is not going to damage fiberglass, but still sagging should be carefully inspected. I never get over the looks of "camper attached to AC". Why manufacturers don't spend another $200 for low-profile AC ? :S Yes, they are built with fiberglass, clam-shell style. He put it in himself, but it does look pretty silly, doesn't it. Not too far off from this: Those hatches are known to fail due to fatigue and weathering but are readily available and cheaper than a Heki hatch. I would be more concerned with the window seals than the pool of water next to the hatch unless you see signs of water inside the roof. Look for water damage on the inside lower portion of the window framing to see if the windows are beginning to leak. Do you mean the wall inside, under the window frame, or the bottom part of the actual black frame of the window? I had a similar seal problem on an old Tufport and it seeped some water during rain, although some have said these seals aren't as important as the caulking around the window. If you don't mind, could you also share what you think a fair sale price would be? $10,500 is about $8000 too much for a 25 year old camper regardless of condition, let alone with a sagging roof and bad window seals. It better be covered in gold leaf for $10,500. Fair point, it is really high, although unfortunately I'm starting to lose hope I could find such a deal on a fiberglass camper. I've been looking since June and ones of similar year and condition are asking for lots of cash - I saw a 1995 9'6" go for $13,000US in Canada two months ago. I guess I could always wait for the market to drop, but I'm set on skiing the rest of the winter out of a resort parking lot.
stupendous_man 12/10/21 12:56pm Truck Campers
RE: Purchasing Warped Roof 1997 Bigfoot 2500 9’6”?

Water Damage = RUN don't walk away. Do you think this is water damage? Some people on other forums have said that this is a normal part of an aging fiberglass camper, so long as there is no evidence of water damage on the interior.
stupendous_man 12/09/21 05:47pm Truck Campers
Purchasing Warped Roof 1997 Bigfoot 2500 9’6”?

Looking to purchase this 1997 Bigfoot 2500 9’6”, and everything looks good except for the front section of the roof. It appears to be sagging in front and to the side of the bedroom skylight. Rainwater is pooling in front of the skylight as well. Is this evidence of water damage? I’ve heard on other forums that pooling rainwater is a bad sign. The rubber siding on the windows looks like it’s starting to pull away as well. I tried to highlight the areas of concern in the attached photos. The asking price is $10,200. Thank you for any advice.
stupendous_man 12/09/21 04:47pm Truck Campers
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