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RE: Help finding fresh date Tires

Excuse my ignorance, but why does it matter? Most tire shops/warehouses I've been to are inside and out of UV exposure which is the biggest killer to tires -surrounded by thousands of other tires. If they are 6 mos or 12 mos old, who cares? The lifecycle should pretty much start when you put them on your coach - when they start getting exposed to elements and sun. Whenever I got new tires for a previous MH's I never even bothered to look at the dates. Inspect them every year and knowing I will replace in 6-7 years from when I bought them. Never had an issue. Sorry, I don't get the fuss. If you buy an RV off the lot - a leftover 2019 with 2018 or older tires, do you replace those tires at 5 years or 7? Some would say that a certain amount of deterioration takes place, anyway, but I do see where you're coming from and have often felt the same way. However if at all possible, I would still go with the latest production and if not for any other reason, it would be for thinking ahead and for a possible resell of the coach or for trading it in. This usually is taken into account and no one at that point, will take the install date very seriously, if it should come under discussion in the first place. Good that you haven't had a problem though and I'm faced with the same thing now and wondering when they should be changed, even though a ways to go yet, either way.
tropical36 01/24/20 02:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Increasing towing capacity

I have a 1998 Fleetwood Bounder 34V it says gross towing weight is 3500 pounds I have a 4000 pound Jeep I want to tow how can i Increase my towing capacity. My GCWR is 23500 pounds, motor home dry weight (UVW) including fuel is 17250, carrying capacity is 2750 pounds towing capacity is 3500 pounds totaling 23500 pounds. Are there any suggestions on how to increase my towing capacity. Check it out thoroughly, but you'll find that in many cases, towing is limited to the transmission, which was my limiting factor in our old gas coach. Do you have a Ford or Chevy and you'll find that the latter will be the weaker of the two, although the 4L80E is a very good tranny. We towed a ton over specs. all over the country. Nothing broke and nothing fell off, but it did take some experience for climbing those long 6% grades, in the heat of summer and will leave that for another thread. For all other terrain, we never knew our toad, was even back there. Toad braking is a must however, so don't leave home without it and it did prove invaluable coming down off of those long grades in the Rockies and Appalachia. We now have a coach, that will pull most anything, without a sweat, so not a concern, anymore.
tropical36 01/24/20 10:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Interior adhesive

We are remodeling our 2008 Tiffin Allegro. We have removed all the window cornices/valances/decorations and shades. Installed solar roll up shades. But there are 2 places where I can’t get to with a drill to mount the new shades. So I thought I would just use adhesive to mount the roll up shade brackets on the wall. So far, carpet tape, industrial Velcro, nano-tape, super glue, and liquid nails have failed. But as part of the remodel, I tried removing the coat hook in the bedroom. I removed the screws and even with all of my weight trying, those jokers are stuck to the wall. So.... What did Tiffin use to adhere thiose hooks to the wall? Any suggestions for adhesive that would work for our new shades? I'd try industrial strength double sided tape, which I recently repaired a couple of basement doors with and what the manufacture used at the factory.... Tape
tropical36 01/24/20 09:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help finding fresh date Tires

Hi all I am trying to help out a friend. He is looking to replace the tires on his class A He curently has Michelin 22 / 80 tires that are about 6 years old. While looking he is not haveing any luck on finding freash dated tires, or they will not guarantee the dates. He lives in South Louisana. Any help would be great Thanks. Michael All he has to do, is for asking the dealer to contact the warehouse, before shipping his tires. If they can't do that, move on to one that can and will.
tropical36 01/24/20 09:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wanna bring a golf cart and a Jeep towed

Me and the DW were starting to lean away from getting a Golf Cart to bring with us in our Gladiator, I think I will do it now just because I CAN! ;) Will it go in between the wheel wells? If not they make a half size cart, that should be less weight, as well.
tropical36 01/17/20 07:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Parts for Kwikee Steps

I have a 1988 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite, the step motor and gearbox are missing. I have photos of a motor and gearbox that are similar to those off my motor home. I would appreciate help in locating replacement parts. Take some pics of a coach like yours and then for matching it all up on Amazon. Pics are worth a thousand words and better than part nos i this case. Also for getting a power window motor, which is the exact same thing, but for whatever reason, they cost less.
tropical36 11/21/19 01:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New 450 Lxi home

Concerning fuel mileage, my 450 Lxi has an electronic fuel mileage display showing 6.1 MPG. How accurate that is I don't know. My father's 05 American Eagle displayed 6.5 MPG. I guesstimate the Eagle to weigh 6K to 8K pounds less than the 450. The Eagle had a red box Cummins rated at 500 HP where as the Lxi has a 525 HP C13 Cat. Well my display shows 6.2 over a 12yr span and since I'm the third owner, I have no idea of what the previous owner's driving habits were, but I've only been able to raise it 0.1, during my 3yrs of ownership. I weigh in at 32K and am powered by a C9 400HP CAT. I still don't know where the sensor is and if the genset is being taken into account here.
tropical36 11/19/19 05:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Resivlor for jacks

I have a 2018 Fleetwood Bounder where is the resiviour. for the jacks there is a round tank under the hood that has red fluid in is that the tank? Scott Sounds about right and it takes Dextron III tranny fluid. Should have solenoid valves mounted on the pump, right above the tank, with hyd. hoses connected to them.
tropical36 11/17/19 11:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New 450 Lxi home

Well... Traveled to Charleston and picked up my new to us Bluebird Wanderlodge 450 Lxi... Had to stop and get diesel just a few miles out... Unfortnately the coach would not fire up... Was able to locate a local mechanic that got us running... Also had an issue with the tires that required a tire service call... With that out of the way smooth sailing for 240 miles... Coach runs great... Very stable, and the 525 Cat is strong... Will try to post a picture... Sounds nice... Hopefully the weight problem was resolved with the recall. https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=670
tropical36 11/17/19 11:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wanna bring a golf cart and a Jeep towed

The gladiator bed isn't big enough for a golf cart. Golf carts are 8ft long the gladiator bed even with the tailgate down is around 6ft. Hmmmmmm, here I was hoping that the Jeep was as long as an F150 super crew, since I've hauled them in ours. The bed on the Ford is around 5ft with the gate closed and with it open the back wheels sit on it, just about right. Maybe a sheet of 3/4 plywood, would make up the difference. So you're saying that you've actually tried putting a golf cart in the bed of a Gladiator?
tropical36 11/15/19 09:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wanna bring a golf cart and a Jeep towed

We're selling our vacation home in SW Fla and plan on using our Challenger for future vacations of a month to 6 weeks. I'm thinking I might want to buy a golf cart to bring along with my Jeep towed. Is there a way to do this? Maybe something to put the golf cart on and then hook up the Jeep. Best way is to buy a new Jeep Gladiator PU and for putting the GC in the bed of the truck and it should fit with the tailgate down. I'd like getting one eventually myself, but won't be buying new. Big bucks, even used, for my auto budget. Another way is for pulling a flat bed trailer and for loading them both on it. My SIL has a tent camper on one, as well as his Jeep CJ5. Once they get where they're going, they off load the Jeep and use the space for lawn chairs and the like.
tropical36 11/13/19 03:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 97 Fleetwood Bounder, F53 chassis

My 97 Fleetwood Bounder with a Ford F53 chassis is having starting problems. Try starting, dead. Try starting with aux. start, dead. Start generator, boom! Gen starts. Then I can start it. I replaced the inverter about 3 years ago. Most likely, your genset starts with the house batteries. Your chassis battery is dead and your aux. start sw. isn't working, for whatever reason. Switch, solenoid....etc...etc... Starting the genset, charges the chassis batteries for it then being able to start. Only thing here, that's not adding up, is for why the thing even charges the chassis battery, if the crossover solenoid isn't working?
tropical36 10/17/19 09:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Agree that space is tight. I'm thinking about taking up the driver's seat just to ensure I can get my big butt in there. I'm hoping I won't have to pull the steering wheel to get to the key lock surround. I need to see the end of the ignition lock cylinder where the actuator attaches with the D ring. Most likely you just have a bad ignition switch, if I'm reading the symptoms correctly.
tropical36 10/03/19 09:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have some voltmeter skills, but the son is a ninja (using that electronics/computer repair and programming education I paid for). He has checked the starter solenoid both at ignition on and at ignition start and I think he said the 12v on the primary wire (small lug) is not there at start to close the solenoid for the starter to get power. Some background...up until last Nov, the MH stayed plugged into 50amp at home, but I would occasionally have to "wiggle" the gear shift to get the MH to start. Last Nov, we moved and now the MH sits in a storage lot on the Navy base with no power and batteries on disconnect. Dec it wouldn't start, so I got a new AGM battery (has already been told before I moved that chassis battery was not well). Even with new battery I still had starting issues...having to wiggle the gear shift, and that is why I replaced the trans park/neutral switch. I usually could get the MH started after fiddling with it for a minute or two. Later, I could start the generator and get the (new) chassis battery up to 13.4v, and the MH would usually start. Trip to ARK in Jul, ended up replacing the ignition switch that is mounted to the steering column. My BIL is an after market installer, and he determined that ignition switch was bad. MH started for the trip home both times I needed it to. I parked the MH in storage on 8 Jul and disconnected the batteries. Went to go start it a couple weeks later and nothing. So I am still easter egging it, using my Son and a neighbor with auto repair skills to find the problem, replacing the starter and starter solenoid to no avail. I think it is probably a loose ground or wire. I have a set of jumper leads so next week-end when the Son is available, I'll work on running a direct wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. I can get the MH to run by crossing the starter post with the ignition to on, so I might just get it running and take it somewhere and have someone with experience look at it...cause I'm sure it won't start for them to get into a bay, and they'll have to figure it out in the parking lot. The aux. solenoid mounted under the dog house somewhere is what could be the culprit and what I'm talking about, so that's where to check for voltage, coming from the ignition. Don't think I'd go directly from the ignition sw. to the main starter solenoid, without knowing how much current the ignition sw. itself is good for. As for grounds, there could be one off or loose somewhere, including said aux., but any + pos. wire going to ground, is a direct short across the batteries and will blow a fuse, dc breaker, something.... Yes, my aux starter solenoid is right there on the pass side frame. Easier to reach from underneath than from above thru the doghouse hatch. Have checked the voltage there and it appears I don't have the 12v on the signal wire to close that solenoid at ignition start. I'm going to look at the key switch on the steering column since have already replaced the ignition switch. thanks...Andy OK, try this and on the ignition Switch itself put 12vdc on the wire going to the aux. solenoid, to see if it's intact and will actually close the solenoid. Also verify if the sw. has 12v supply voltage to begin with, so if and when it does close with the key, you'll have it at the aux. If so, then that sw. is probably faulty and sometimes just rattling the control rod, from the key lock makes it contact. Earlier you said your old P30 chassis had a rod between the key lock cylinder and the ignition switch. Mine has a plastic rod called an ignition switch actuator. I was doing some on-line troubleshooting last night with my Nephew in MO. He runs a locksmith shop and does a lot of key lock cylinder replacements. He remembered a lot of Fords have that actuator, so we did an F53 ignition diagram check on PartsGeek, and there it was. I need to get over to the Bounder in storage and see if I can access the ignition switch and slide the tab forward/down all the way with the key on and see if it starts. Appreciate all your time and insight. I'll let you know if I am successful. Metal, plastic, makes not a diff., so here's my story when in a CG on a Sunday morning, some years agao... Found a switch in my on board collection, cut two lengths of wire for it, jammed the other ends into the ignition switch terminals and held it fast with some tape. Laying the sw. up on the dog house for easy access and presto, we have secondary ignition for getting underway to a funeral. Some days later, I got the switch in that town and changed it out, in another CG. Worked fine, until we sold the coach in 16. Even for a small guy, it was a bear getting under there to work on it. Turned the seat to the right 90 degrees and slide in against the wall sideways. Funny for when we got to our destination, as I never shut the engine off, once started. So, when we got setup there and went to turn off the ignition, the engine kept on running and until I turned off the additional switch, that I installed.
tropical36 10/02/19 02:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where is everyone getting their wiper blades?

My blades are 32 1/2". I googled and Amazon offers 32" for 55 bucks. Is that a good price? Do I need 32" or 33"? Does it matter? Any additional recommendations? Thank you Bob I've been getting them at AutoZone or AdvancedAuto and usually the cheapest, as they don't get used a lot and only last for awhile, before becoming hard and brittle anyway. We've never had a problem finding replacements for the three coaches, that we've owned.
tropical36 10/01/19 10:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: To Buy or build

Many years ago, I bought a street rod once for $8K. Took it to a show that night and won a trophy. An acquaintance began building one of the same around the same time. Over a 3 yr period, I tinkered and improved on it, without much investment. Finally sold it at a nice profit. My acquaintance on the other hand, had $35K in his and it still needed an interior.
tropical36 10/01/19 10:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have some voltmeter skills, but the son is a ninja (using that electronics/computer repair and programming education I paid for). He has checked the starter solenoid both at ignition on and at ignition start and I think he said the 12v on the primary wire (small lug) is not there at start to close the solenoid for the starter to get power. Some background...up until last Nov, the MH stayed plugged into 50amp at home, but I would occasionally have to "wiggle" the gear shift to get the MH to start. Last Nov, we moved and now the MH sits in a storage lot on the Navy base with no power and batteries on disconnect. Dec it wouldn't start, so I got a new AGM battery (has already been told before I moved that chassis battery was not well). Even with new battery I still had starting issues...having to wiggle the gear shift, and that is why I replaced the trans park/neutral switch. I usually could get the MH started after fiddling with it for a minute or two. Later, I could start the generator and get the (new) chassis battery up to 13.4v, and the MH would usually start. Trip to ARK in Jul, ended up replacing the ignition switch that is mounted to the steering column. My BIL is an after market installer, and he determined that ignition switch was bad. MH started for the trip home both times I needed it to. I parked the MH in storage on 8 Jul and disconnected the batteries. Went to go start it a couple weeks later and nothing. So I am still easter egging it, using my Son and a neighbor with auto repair skills to find the problem, replacing the starter and starter solenoid to no avail. I think it is probably a loose ground or wire. I have a set of jumper leads so next week-end when the Son is available, I'll work on running a direct wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. I can get the MH to run by crossing the starter post with the ignition to on, so I might just get it running and take it somewhere and have someone with experience look at it...cause I'm sure it won't start for them to get into a bay, and they'll have to figure it out in the parking lot. The aux. solenoid mounted under the dog house somewhere is what could be the culprit and what I'm talking about, so that's where to check for voltage, coming from the ignition. Don't think I'd go directly from the ignition sw. to the main starter solenoid, without knowing how much current the ignition sw. itself is good for. As for grounds, there could be one off or loose somewhere, including said aux., but any + pos. wire going to ground, is a direct short across the batteries and will blow a fuse, dc breaker, something.... Yes, my aux starter solenoid is right there on the pass side frame. Easier to reach from underneath than from above thru the doghouse hatch. Have checked the voltage there and it appears I don't have the 12v on the signal wire to close that solenoid at ignition start. I'm going to look at the key switch on the steering column since have already replaced the ignition switch. thanks...Andy OK, try this and on the ignition Switch itself put 12vdc on the wire going to the aux. solenoid, to see if it's intact and will actually close the solenoid. Also verify if the sw. has 12v supply voltage to begin with, so if and when it does close with the key, you'll have it at the aux. If so, then that sw. is probably faulty and sometimes just rattling the control rod, from the key lock makes it contact.
tropical36 10/01/19 09:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have some voltmeter skills, but the son is a ninja (using that electronics/computer repair and programming education I paid for). He has checked the starter solenoid both at ignition on and at ignition start and I think he said the 12v on the primary wire (small lug) is not there at start to close the solenoid for the starter to get power. Some background...up until last Nov, the MH stayed plugged into 50amp at home, but I would occasionally have to "wiggle" the gear shift to get the MH to start. Last Nov, we moved and now the MH sits in a storage lot on the Navy base with no power and batteries on disconnect. Dec it wouldn't start, so I got a new AGM battery (has already been told before I moved that chassis battery was not well). Even with new battery I still had starting issues...having to wiggle the gear shift, and that is why I replaced the trans park/neutral switch. I usually could get the MH started after fiddling with it for a minute or two. Later, I could start the generator and get the (new) chassis battery up to 13.4v, and the MH would usually start. Trip to ARK in Jul, ended up replacing the ignition switch that is mounted to the steering column. My BIL is an after market installer, and he determined that ignition switch was bad. MH started for the trip home both times I needed it to. I parked the MH in storage on 8 Jul and disconnected the batteries. Went to go start it a couple weeks later and nothing. So I am still easter egging it, using my Son and a neighbor with auto repair skills to find the problem, replacing the starter and starter solenoid to no avail. I think it is probably a loose ground or wire. I have a set of jumper leads so next week-end when the Son is available, I'll work on running a direct wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. I can get the MH to run by crossing the starter post with the ignition to on, so I might just get it running and take it somewhere and have someone with experience look at it...cause I'm sure it won't start for them to get into a bay, and they'll have to figure it out in the parking lot. The aux. solenoid mounted under the dog house somewhere is what could be the culprit and what I'm talking about, so that's where to check for voltage, coming from the ignition. Don't think I'd go directly from the ignition sw. to the main starter solenoid, without knowing how much current the ignition sw. itself is good for. As for grounds, there could be one off or loose somewhere, including said aux., but any + pos. wire going to ground, is a direct short across the batteries and will blow a fuse, dc breaker, something....
tropical36 09/30/19 04:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment.
tropical36 09/29/19 08:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

There is a starter relay between the key and starter solenoid, that is a known failure item. I believe it's close to the right fender well. It has probably failed. Richard My bet, as well and the DP's have an aux. solenoid that's prone to failure as well. Wherever the engine starter, this aux. or relay should be close by and jumping across it, should tell the story. Reading for voltage at the terminals with and without turning the ignition Sw., will tell you something as well.
tropical36 09/28/19 02:34pm Class A Motorhomes
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