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RE: Powerglide Chassis

Looking to upgrade to a used Allegro Bus on the Powerglide chassis in a few months. How does this Tiffin built chassis compare to Freightliner? Are parts readily available in case of a break down? How is the ride on one?? Looking for any advise on these. Steve You'll get plenty of answers and don't know what years you're looking at, but starting around 2004 Spartan was also an option on a bus. For exp. on the 2010 .... https://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2010/Allegro
tropical36 01/01/21 08:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1200 won't turn on ??

If the recall box is doing it’s job, how come you have to reset it with a magnet Like all things man made, they have their quirks and especially for a fix that was made as cheap as possible for satisfying the government. A little more money and it would reset on it's own with unwarranted nuisance tripping or at least for just having to turn the power off and back on. I think that's what I had to do with with my ARP until I moved the sensor up a bit. One must remember that the ARP is much more temp. sensitive. Then again, like Doug said, he could have been way off level and for causing the fridge to overheats. I believe that's what happens anyway. In the case of the OP, it's pretty obvious that his fridge never even got to 350F and proven by the fact that he has both units hooked up in his fridge. As for me, I'm just glad I have a simple low energy compressor unit now with most of the garbage gone. Thing is with a Norcold, most were inefficient and didn't earn the nickname NEVERCOLD for nothing.
tropical36 12/27/20 06:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1200 won't turn on ??

Thank you for your response. Since you have been in the business as long as I have been in flooring, enlighten us why the recalls and published recalls and the magnet trick to bypass the recalls was done. I have owner 15+ TVs, so, I too, know a “little’. I just have one question here and as to why you refer to the ...magnet trick to bypass the recalls... as a bypass when it's only to reset the thing, so it will do it's job?
tropical36 12/27/20 05:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1200 won't turn on ??

Thanks for the info. I have the ARP, I also installed a fire extinguisher and the unit is in very good condition. I frequently check it for any leaks, and it has worked great for years. So I really see no need to replace it. This is only the second time the safety switch has tripped and both times have been to washing. Thanks again for the help. Sounds like you have the ARP connected in series with the NC device. I didn't do that and see no need even though it says to. ARP has to say that for liability reasons. I mean if it's OK for NC's at a cutoff of 600F or so, why isn't it OK for the lone ARP to trip at around 350F? Biggest thing with the compressor versions is for quick and deep cold, along with quick recovery's with the door openings and closings. I get it though and didn't convert mine, until it gave up the ship.
tropical36 12/26/20 11:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Monaco

It has road master chassis It's still going to have an aux. solenoid near the main starter solenoid. Batteries are obviously good if you can start it with the main solenoid. I put bypass buttons in the engine compartment for both solenoids, when we got the coach. Not only can I always start it, if the starter is good, but they also troubleshoot to a certain extent. Beats crawling down under in a rain storm and for possibly throwing sparks everywhere.
tropical36 12/25/20 08:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1200 won't turn on ??

Finally got the switch to reset. Found out one needs to leave the magnet over the area for 5 or so seconds before moving it. Just sliding the magnet back and forth wouldn't do it. Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated. Now consider an ARP replacement for this Norcold band aide, while contemplating a RC Refrigeration conversion to a residential type compressor for a permanent fix. Both were the best thing we ever did. State what the ARP does for safety that the Norcold recall does not. What the ARP does also, is, protects the Cooling Unit from off level operation and shuts the refer down when running off level. This prevents ruining the CU from off level operation. Once level the ARP restarts the Refer. The Safety part is almost identical to the Norcold device. I would have a ARP on any brand RV Ammonia refer. Doug Does it not cutoff at a much lower temp. than the NC fix? Seems that trying to reset the NC device brings in the most complaints though.
tropical36 12/25/20 08:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Monaco

Got a friend got 2008 signature and won’t start. Lights will come on and speedometer goes back forward and tach. Until you turn switch off. But I can go underneath the coach and start on starter. Need help. The most likely culprit is the aux solenoid which you'll find near the Starter by following the small pos wire back. This is a chassis thing and a common failure on a Spartan. The good news is that Spartan usually has a better price than anyone for a replacement.
tropical36 12/25/20 10:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1200 won't turn on ??

Finally got the switch to reset. Found out one needs to leave the magnet over the area for 5 or so seconds before moving it. Just sliding the magnet back and forth wouldn't do it. Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated. Now consider an ARP replacement for this Norcold band aide, while contemplating a RC Refrigeration conversion to a residential type compressor for a permanent fix. Both were the best thing we ever did.
tropical36 12/25/20 10:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cummins ISB 5.9 Cranks but no fire-ECM power.

We just checked all 5 fuses in the battery box, going right into the main wiring harness. All fuses are good, verified with test light. However, some of the fuse holders have power at both sides, without a fuse installed. Maybe the ECM is back feeding those lines with power? The suggested fusible links look to be part of the wiring and not actual fuses. Not sure you're aware of that and just so you know.
tropical36 11/30/20 06:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How important is tire size to your selection?

Hi Chum lee, I'm not sure where you got the idea I was talking about a used coach? I'm looking for new. My question was is there a reason to specifically look at a coach with 22.5 tires over a coach having 19.5 tires? T he answer is NO... If you don't need the additional weight, then the tried and true 19'5's work just fine. The 22.5 tires/chassis may give a little better ride, but not to the point to make a selection on it? Have I gone off the rails on what you good folks have said? Are the two coaches about the same price wise? Just wondering why the one is equipped with larger wheels.
tropical36 11/24/20 06:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How important is tire size to your selection?

Many don't check any of this out before purchase and concentrate on the fireplace and big TV. Fact is and if I'm looking to buy a DP, I first look in the rear for a side radiator, while most head for the entry door for checking out said TV and fireplace. But then, that's for another topic. while the salesman makes a mad dash for the button to demonstrate the electric awning with the LED lights. :) bumpy There ya go and about the extent of what their knowledge is of the machine itself. Just try asking them some real questions and see what you get. Makes no never mind really and with one needing to know everything about what they want, before seriously shopping around. For instance made a phone offer with contingencies on our last one, after deciding on what we wanted. Still missed the part of where that extra ton of CCC was and assuming it was overall. Shame on me, but not a problem as we always tow four down anyway.
tropical36 11/24/20 09:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How important is tire size to your selection?

If I’m reading you right, the 22 is better and holds more weight. But the 19 has been around a long time and does fine if additional weight isn’t a factor? This is true and for example, our old coach was well under weight for the 19.5" tires. It had a tag axle for an additional 4500 lbs. but only because it was 36ft long and on a GM P32 chassis. At the same time, pulling our Jeep put an extra ton of overload on it and only because of the GM 4L80E transmission. No problem however, except for long 6% grades in the heat of summer. Now with our present coach and 22.5 tires, the rear is at max GVWR when loaded for travel, but because of the axle, not the tires. Still a ton to the good on the front. As for GCWR, we can pull 15K lbs and stay within specs. and just as long as it's not a trailer with hitch weight to contend with and even though the hitch rating is 1500lbs. Many don't check any of this out before purchase and concentrate on the fireplace and big TV. Fact is and if I'm looking to buy a DP, I first look in the rear for a side radiator, while most head for the entry door for checking out said TV and fireplace. But then, that's for another topic.
tropical36 11/23/20 06:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How important is tire size to your selection?

Some motorhomes have 22.5 tires while others have 19.5. The style, meaning price point is the same. But as I said they have different size tires. How important is that in the big selection process? I've never seen a motorhome that didn't have adequate wheels and tires for the chassis it was on. Thing to watch out for is CCC and GCWR, which many fail in miserably and for a number of reasons. Axles capacity for one and most importantly for the latter, the transmission. Having said all that, the larger wheels could very well account for more CCC and GVWR. Apples to Apples, I'd go with the 22.5's.
tropical36 11/23/20 02:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: slide topper replacement ACE 30.1 2016

I found a way for making it a simple one man job and have done two of mine so far. Put the slide about half way out where you have some room to work. Then, take up a little slack and C clamp or other, on the opposite side of where you'll be removing it. Then use a drill for widening the slot towards the end of the roller on the other end. Spray the whole slot with some slickum, like silicon and after removing the track anchors on the coach body, slide the thing out, little by little. Clickity.... Can't seem to fix this thing with it saying that I used invalid formatting. Let's try the uTube link again ... https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+replace+a+carefree+slide+topper&oq=how+to+replace+a+carefree+slide+topper&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i22i30i457j0i22i30j69i61l2.17610j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_joOtX4iEBcaA5wKUw4fIBg12
tropical36 11/12/20 11:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: slide topper replacement ACE 30.1 2016

I found a way for making it a simple one man job and have done two of mine so far. Put the slide about half way out where you have some room to work. Then, take up a little slack and C clamp or other, on the opposite side of where you'll be removing it. Then use a drill for widening the slot towards the end of the roller on the other end. Spray the whole slot with some slickum, like silicon and after removing the track anchors on the coach body, slide the thing out, little by little. Clickity....
tropical36 11/12/20 11:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2000 Safari Sahara Slide out inop

Hi guys! So, new to me Sahara has the main slideout stuck open and it won't close. I took the cylinder out to move it, but I have no idea how to troubleshoot it. Anybody knows where is the pump? Normal failure modes? Any help will be greatly appreciated! So hydraulic, rather than Power Gear Electric. Can't help much, this being the case, but do wish to follow towards a solution, where others should be able to help you.
tropical36 11/11/20 05:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tv reception with air antenna

my reception with my air antenna works well in my driveway but at various campgrounds get no channels at all. These campgrounds are not remote and near densely populated areas. I know the boost works and the selector in set at antenna. I don not want to go to an rv service center near home and pay big labor rates for them to tell me all is well. also all cables to the selector box are secure. help Shouldn't be a problem, as our old batwing works well. Usually leave it straight ahead and scan all TV's. If needed, rotate CW a few degrees and recheck along with a rescan if necessary. We usually ignore the park cable service, since they're most always analog signals.
tropical36 10/30/20 07:56am Technology Corner
RE: Installing an inverter in my Winndbago Journey

This question is for Tropical36. I am interested in doing what you described you have done to connect inverter as shore power. Would it help if I were to disconnect power bank from main setup and use it as a stand-alone power bank to power the inverter? Not really understanding the question here. What are you referring to as the ....power bank... and are you perhaps talking about your house batteries? What do you mean by the main setup? All I was saying is that you might just plug your shore power cord into the inverter's 120vac output when you want to use it. Again, you must first open every non essential circuit breaker, when doing so or risk depleting your house batteries in short order. As for what you can keep, it will depend on the size of the inverter. If you only want to operate a couple of things and the inverter is only 1000watts or less, it's not all that hard to run a couple of dedicated outlets here and there, like I did in our old gas coach and be done with it, as another option.
tropical36 10/22/20 09:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Years of auto park brake

looking to purchase another class a or a diesel.... how do i avoid the dreaded Auto park brake system... what years were they used... were they on all models... thanks in advance This was a GM design that was around for awhile, before the P32 chassis was sold to Workhorse in 1999. Not such a bad system, actually and as long as one educated themselves on it's operation and for carrying a few parts on board and especially the green hydraulic pressure switch for the version III. Some were installed on the WH W chassis, as well and even though it might have an Allison Transmission. The whole thing is about having a tranny that doesn't have a parking pawl due to liability concerns over weight restrictions. Read on..... Technical Inquiries: August 2004 September 1, 2004 Auto-Park Brake Questions A: Recently we’ve received several questions regarding the auto-park brake system used on some Workhorse P Series gasoline-powered motorhome chassis. To help owners understand how the system works, what could cause it to fail, and the results of such a failure, we contacted the company for an explanation. A product service technician at Workhorse provided the following information. The auto-park brake system (option J71) is used on all P Series chassis equipped with Hydra-Matic 4L80-E and 4L85-E (the latter starting with 2003 model year) transmissions and with gross vehicle weight ratings (GVWR) above 15,000 pounds. This brake replaces the foot parking brake and parking pawl used on similar units rated at less than 15,000 pounds GVWR. (The parking pawl on the 4L80E transmission is rated at a maximum of 15,000 pounds GVWR.) Workhorse chassis (W Series) equipped with Allison 1000 MH transmissions do not have auto-park brakes; they have parking pawls. However, the new W24 (2004 model) chassis with an Allison 2100 MH transmission does have an auto-park brake system, as this transmission has no parking pawl. Allison transmissions are not available on P Series chassis. The foundation for the auto-park brake system is a drum-type brake mounted on the rear of the transmission. When the brake shoes are applied against the drum, they stop rotation of the prop shaft, which holds the rear wheels from rotating. A spring-loaded chamber mechanically applies the brake. A hydraulic cylinder that obtains pressure and flow from an electric-powered pump releases the brake. The brake is applied when the shift lever is put in the “park” position. The brake is activated when the park neutral switch and relay remove a 12-volt-DC power supply to a normally open solenoid valve. The valve dumps the oil pressure that holds the spring compressed, and the spring mechanically applies the parking brake. When the shift lever is moved to any gear position, 12-volt-DC power goes to the solenoid valve and it closes. At the same time, an electric-powered hydraulic pump provides pressure and flow to a cylinder that compresses the spring and releases the brake. The operation is similar to that of spring-activated parking brakes on air-brake-equipped units. For a parking brake to meet Department of Transportation (DOT) standards, it must fail in a safe mode so that the parking brake is activated or remains activated in the event of any failure within the system. This means that any failure will result in the parking brake being applied or not being released. This is a desirable feature and is required to prevent a parked vehicle from rolling in the event of a system failure. For example, any loss of power to the solenoid valve, including a dead battery or a loose battery connection, can cause the brake to apply. Similar designs are used throughout the industry on motorhomes, buses, and trucks. Other failures that could cause the brake to apply include loss of fluid pressure resulting from leaks in the system, or contaminated fluid. Owners also should be aware that connecting add-on electrical devices to the same circuit or wiring as the auto-brake have been known to cause problems. If you decide to add an aftermarket backup camera, obstacle sensing device, and/or a backup warning device, make sure it is fused separately if wired to the backup lights. The backup lights are most often wired through the neutral safety switch that is necessarily fused on the same circuit as the auto-park brake, as this is the switch that actuates it. One concern owners have expressed is, what would happen if the brake should apply at high speed? The vehicle will come to a slow stop, as it does not have sufficient power to lock and skid the rear wheels, unless the vehicle is traveling on an icy or a slippery surface. However, severe damage can occur to the brake and it may not hold the unit in a parked position. In this case, the brake immediately should be checked, repaired, and adjusted as necessary. The prop shaft will not be damaged. Should the brake become locked in a no-release condition due to a failure, it cannot be mechanically released. However, a qualified technician can remove the cable pin. This will release the brake, but the unit will not have a parking brake and cannot be parked without blocking the wheels. To reduce the possibility of having an auto-brake failure, Workhorse recommends a yearly inspection of the system for loose connections, corrosion of components, adjustments, reservoir fluid level, fluid condition, and system operation. The cable should be adjusted at least once every year. The system has a light and buzzer that warns the operator if an adjustment is needed. The adjustment is required to provide proper holding power and is not related to failure to release. The system also should be inspected to make sure that added items such as reverse bells/lights or any other added equipment is not installed on the same circuit or wiring as the auto-park brake. An electrical overload resulting from such added items has caused the parking brake to apply or not release. In May 2001 Workhorse issued technical bulletin 80101-T that described chassis wiring improvements for 2001 model-year chassis (after VIN# 5B4LP57G51333218 on March 12, 2001). One of the changes was to separate the circuits used for the auto-park brake and signal lights so that a shorted or improperly wired towed vehicle would not interfere with the auto-park brake. Some owners have asked whether a replacement kit is available to convert the auto-park brake system into a pedal- or lever-type system as is used on some commercial trucks. The answer is no. All chassis equipped with automatic transmissions and hydraulic brakes without parking pawls have the auto-brake system to comply with DOT standards. This includes all Workhorse gasoline-powered chassis with Allison transmissions other than the 1000 MH transmission, which has a parking pawl.
tropical36 10/18/20 09:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Turning off the generator with the AC going?

If you unplug shore power with the A/C running, The arcing will be at the shore cord male plug and the campground RV outlet.! If you shut a synchronous generator off while there is a substantial load (A/C compressor) , The arcing will be in the transfer switch contacts, But the biggest danger is damage to the the generator head, As the generator head winds down, voltage drops rapidly and amp load of the compressor increases, When the voltage is too low to hold in the ats, it drops out aka open the contacts that this amp load is flowing thru, but the back EMF from the breaking open circuit causes a power spike in the generator head and the field control circuit That is where the expensive damage accumulates until there is failure, A winding down generator, is not the same as flipping a disconnect or pulling a plug I've always thought along these same lines and keep wondering why my coach has a gen start next to the bed for the convenience of starting or stopping during the night, without having to get up?
tropical36 10/05/20 07:11am Class A Motorhomes
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