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RE: buy from dealer or private seller

Off topic but pertains to Pvt purchase via Cash. all cash Bank transactions withdrawals or deposits 10,000 or more are reported to the feds by Bank regulation and part of homeland security and of course watching for Drug transactions. If Purchasing with a dealer unfortunately I disagree with cash being King. Cash is not king anymore unless it's some mom and pop operation. Much like a Car dealer (never say your cash to a car dealer until the deal is done) Dealers can make money off the financing and may take that into consideration on their "deal" dealers can get better rates than you and then equal or better the rates you can get at the same lender while they get the difference. A legit dealer will lower the price counting on that income to make it up , you win with a lower OTD price and the same financing rate you would get on your own. Just some food for thought if your a Dealer purchaser I need to remember that and for making all my future drug deals in lots of $9999.99....lol You're right about dealers and financing and for them not wanting to hear that cash word, any longer. Check book in the doorway, as I mentioned is just for showing seriousness in making a downpayment and for no matter how you pay.
tropical36 07/06/20 08:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: buy from dealer or private seller

Cash talks & BS walks. Be surprised what a deal can be made when you “show them the cash”. With a dealer, the best deals can be made, standing in the doorway with checkbook and pen in hand, while on your way out the door. Again, the best way to buy all around, is from a consignment dealer and for going back and forth with the seller.
tropical36 07/05/20 09:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: buy from dealer or private seller

In my experience is with many private party sellers is they want cash only. Won’t take a check or a cashiers check or even go to bank with you, cash only. So when I recently bought a Motorhome from a private party the seller insisted on Cash. Wouldn’t even follow me to my Bank to receive a Bank Check. So I had to pre-order that much Cash and fill out forms for the bank and government of what I was going to do with that much cash. In the future if I’m trying to buy a RV or car for more than $ 10K and the seller won’t take a cashiers check No deal. Dealers will always take a check, even a personal check is no problem. I’m not carrying around big bundles of cash anymore for private sellers A little off topic here, but it shouldn't be anyone's freaking business, with what you intend to do with your own money and these freaking banks are starting to get to me with their always BS. Just the other day, I deposited a nice size check and even though I've been with then forever, they still said, my money was not available for withdrawal for awhile. We're not talking personal check here, but form one of the largest corps in American. Having said all that, most sellers will take a cashier's check and the last time, I was given a bunch of cash for a sale, I had one hell've time counting it and for doing so about 4 times.
tropical36 07/05/20 09:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Concrete driveway thickness??

All I've seen, have cracked wherever it felt like it, despite having form/saw joints. Often that means if they sawed the joint, they waited too long. Just the expansion/contraction from day to night can crack a slab. Forming the joint is OK for DIY work but hard to get consistent depth with wet concrete wanting to reform into a single piece. Spacing for joints, depends on thickness and reinforcement...a thin non-reinforced slab will require a lot of joints. It will also be more critical that you have the base well compacted. I get what you're saying and must admit, I'm pretty much of an amateur, for pouring concrete. Then again, I've seen the same from would be professionals
tropical36 07/04/20 06:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Concrete driveway thickness??

Concrete highways are normally 4 inches thick to stand up to truck traffic. Call some contractors and ask them. You might be right on the margin of safety. I'm in the industry and the thinnest concrete I've ever seen used on a highway is 7 inches. 8 to 12 inches is more common. For a driveway with a big MH, I would go with 6 inch....it is critical that the base below is compacted well. Concrete cracks...you can either form/saw joints that look nice or they will form for you and they will be ugly. All I've seen, have cracked wherever it felt like it, despite having form/saw joints.
tropical36 07/04/20 02:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Concrete driveway thickness??

I would like to park my motor home on a driveway that I believe is about 3 inches thick of concrete. I have a diesel pusher that weighs about 29,000. The greatest single tire bearing weight is 5500 lbs. Obviously I don't want to cause any damage in the way of cracks or other damage. To be on the safe side I think it would be best to keep my jacks up too. What do you think, would it be safe? We destroyed ours after getting this 16 ton model. Doing it over, I'd pour 6" thick with reinforcement. As for cracks forming here and there, if you can prevent that from happening, then you'll find yourself rich, by just being a consultant to the industry.
tropical36 07/04/20 09:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Older MH mpg with diesel

Seems that everyone always gets better mileage than me, no matter what I'm driving. I'm an easy driver too, with easy starts off the line and for cruising at 57mph and just enough to prevent downshifting into 5th going over grades. I'm at 16tons and over a 13yr period, among three owners, my average is 6.2 on the OEM digital dash readout. I tow as well and was only able to increase this average by 0.1 over four years. Not even sure, if this is counting the genset, since I don't know where sensors for this is. I've also noticed that some of these big rigs, get as much as our toad, all by itself. Ummmmmmm! Glad to hear from an honest owner. My Cat350 in a 40 footer and towing a CR-V gets 6.6 to 6.7. I thought mine was worse than anybody's. But, I have to agree with the guy who said that mileage was way down the list in importance. Once you pay for insurance, taxes, storage (in my case) and other maintenance expenses involved, you'll see. Kind of like buying an airplane and worrying about MPG. I certainly agree and these numbers are only good for the sake of discussion and for wondering if you have a leak somewhere. Actually and I've said this many times, I feel that DPM (depreciation per mile) is where the real cost of ownership lies and the only way to offset that some, is for buying older. We bought ours at 9yrs old and it's still gonna be a bunch of money, once it's all said and done.
tropical36 07/04/20 09:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: buy from dealer or private seller

We are looking to buy a newer model class A . We have never bought from a private seller, only dealers. Need some opinions on experiences of buying from Private seller. Which is best, dealer or private? Thanks! Consignment dealer has been my best experience, with both wanting to get rid of it and at the same time, making the dealer take a certain amount of responsibility for it. Don't have to deal with the emotions of the seller either. Next best, is for private seller. Dealer, only when he has what you want in the right condition at the right price, but to be avoided if can be.
tropical36 06/26/20 08:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Older MH mpg with diesel

Seems that everyone always gets better mileage than me, no matter what I'm driving. I'm an easy driver too, with easy starts off the line and for cruising at 57mph and just enough to prevent downshifting into 5th going over grades. I'm at 16tons and over a 13yr period, among three owners, my average is 6.2 on the OEM digital dash readout. I tow as well and was only able to increase this average by 0.1 over four years. Not even sure, if this is counting the genset, since I don't know where sensors for this is. I've also noticed that some of these big rigs, get as much as our toad, all by itself. Ummmmmmm!
tropical36 06/19/20 08:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Older MH mpg with diesel

We are considering a purchase of a 15 to 20 year old MH. I am wondering what the MPG would be. Probably a 30 to 36 foot with or without slides. Driving around 60 mph and just two of us and pulling small lite truck If you really think that MPG will be much of a factor for operating costs, don't be figuring on more than 6 - 8 mpg, over a period of years for all terrain. Also, don't forget the genset, which will burn between 1/2 - 1 gallon per hours, when running. Actually, you'll already be pretty much eliminating the biggest cost of ownership and cost per mile, for much better than average DPM (depreciation per mile). For whatever reason, this is one of the least things discussed, with very little posting and threads of such, while MPG is one of the most popular. Well that and Wally World for overnight stays, which by the way, is the best way to save on fuel, hands down. As in Boon-docking specifically and for wherever and whenever you can do so, if so inclined.
tropical36 06/11/20 11:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rebuild ideas and thoughts

Sounds like it should have been a TT for a little more money and for a lot less, than the OP will have in the MH. Even with something to pull it with. Unless of course, he's really planning on hitting the road, for day in and day out travel around the country. Even at that, I'd have payed more for something that was ready to go or close. Yeah, I know and the original price was a lot cheaper, but just wait and for a rude awakening that's about to slap one in the face. Like said, you gotta love the punishment of the project itself, above all else.
tropical36 06/03/20 11:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: MH models with the fewest slides

20 years ago my wife and I were full-timers in our RV(s). We're in a house now, but itching to get back out touring. We have visited 48 of the 50 US states in our camper, we move a lot, and we dry-camp more than we stay in RV parks, so we're looking for a used class A with as few slides as possible. What models, 20 years old or less, should we be looking for? 36 to 40' max, and no tag axle. Looks like your advice is all over the place so far and because you haven't revealed your budget for this purchase. Also for whether you want a puller or a pusher and gas or diesel. Keep in mind a non slide coach, is worth about half of it's total value and the single most valuable option out there. Just saying, so that you won't be paying much of anything for a non slide perhaps and for then being lucky to ever sell it. One slide units were very prevalent in the late 90's and early 2000's and there must be some nice ones, that are still around.
tropical36 05/19/20 11:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best Class C for the money

Tropicaal36 posted "Gee....after all that, I don't understand why a Class C doesn't cost a lot more than a DP/A....lol Hey whatever floats one's boat and why they make one for everyone. I used to have some arguments against a DP, but now that we have one, there's no going back to anything else, for us and not many do." The Original Poster asked a question about a Class C motorhome in a Class C forum. A poster with a Diesel Pusher asked why the OP did not consider a Class A motorhome. And someone then wonders about the responses received? Oh, so that was what it was all about and that might have been my bad, Ummmmmmm! So, the thread was high jacked then? Oh well, if just one person learned something, it can't be all bad. Least ways, it didn't go on to something like windshield wipers or for some other, off the wall subject....lol Having said that, I'll now bow out!
tropical36 05/19/20 10:28am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best Class C for the money

I love my super c had it built to my specifications has 174,000 miles on it and it's a dream to dive and live in Super C's are another animal altogether. The one thing I do love about them, is engine access. That and for having all that hood out in front of you. Other than that, my preference is still for a bus.
tropical36 05/19/20 08:05am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best Class C for the money

There are only four reasons for a diesel pusher. Room, washing machine, and dishwasher. And Prestige. Room is the only one worth considering. A Class C can support a toad. Class C's have Corian surfaces, tile floors, safe, vacuum cleaner, Satellite TV, etc. They are easier to drive, cost less to operate, easier to service. All given up is room and prestige. And ..... : No Class A has a coach structure consisting of outer walls and roof made up of a single molded fiberglass piece - for a lifetime of no leaks (other than around the same surface openings as are in a diesel pusher Class A) - as is the case in a Coach House Class C. Class C motorhomes can be retrofitted with genuine full-blown air suspension - if their owner(s) want to pay for it. Most diesel pusher Class A rigs should in no way be taken to explore and camp in the intimate and/or pristine remote places where a small Class C can be taken. The only torque that counts is the final torque winding up on the drive axles - and what this takes is a given amount of horsepower converted into the required amount of torque on drive axles via overall drive-train gearing. IAW, a given amount of diesel pusher horsepower is the same as the same given amount of gasser horsepower - other than the diesel pusher crankshaft turns at a lower RPM, so overall drive train gearing must be different than that of a gas engine powered motorhome. Pristige has it's roots in envy or yearning for something different ... and not everyone has diesel pusher Class A type roots. My envy and/or yearning centers around an over-the-top Earthroamer Class C. ;) Gee....after all that, I don't understand why a Class C doesn't cost a lot more than a DP/A....lol Hey whatever floats one's boat and why they make one for everyone. I used to have some arguments against a DP, but now that we have one, there's no going back to anything else, for us and not many do.
tropical36 05/18/20 10:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best Class C for the money

There are only four reasons for a diesel pusher. Room, washing machine, and dishwasher. And Prestige. Room is the only one worth considering. A Class C can support a toad. Class C's have Corian surfaces, tile floors, safe, vacuum cleaner, Satellite TV, etc. They are easier to drive, cost less to operate, easier to service. All given up is room and prestige. Which begs the question of...why are they prestigious?... Maybe cuz you forgot to mention the air ride and lack of cockpit noise. How about for it's amazing low RPM torque. Our old gasser, once had a washer/dryer, that was removed at some point. Our DP doesn't have a dish washer and we don't want one. As for room, I've seen gassers near 40ft, while a new Tiffin Allegro Breeze DP is just 31ft 6". There's also some gassers with four slideouts, that make for a lot of room, regardless of it's length.
tropical36 05/18/20 06:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee Steps

I have a Class A Diesel pusher. We had the motor fixed on the steps about two months ago, and since then, everything has worked fine. Switches work fine, they retract when they are supposed to and extend when they are supposed to. Yesterday, we left on a trip and as soon as we started the motor, with the door closed, the steps extended. When the motor turns off, the steps retract. This is completely opposite of what they are supposed to do. On the trips we have taken since the motor was fixed, this didn't happen. It just started yesterday. Anyone have an idea of what might be the problem? Yep, complete opposite and for happening all on it's own, eh? Does it act the same with whatever position the step switch? That being the case and just for beginners, disconnect all your batteries negative leads for a few minutes, before reconnecting them. Don't ask me why, but I've reset a lot of stuff to it's proper working order that way.
tropical36 05/18/20 09:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best Class C for the money

I am 72 and we think a class a would be too much to handle. We think also that having a short class c we would not need to pull a toad I'm older than that and find no problem with overall length. However, A's do come as short as 25-26ft. As for having a toad or not, you'll find that the real problem lies with having to break camp, every time, you wish to go somewhere and then for setting back up again, upon your return, which could be after dark, in the rain.
tropical36 05/18/20 08:44am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Wind noise

i would suggest that you tape around your windows and anywhere you think wind could get in with painters tape and take a drive. You'll find out pretty quick where the wind is coming from. Didn't work for me. Even stuffed plastic bags everywhere, including under the hood and on the sides of the dash. Hey, they were designed that way and if one was lucky enough for getting one where they made the mistake of sealing it up tight, then just rejoice. One must also remember, that with the cockpit quietness of most DP's, any noise at all, is going to be more noticeable than it would be with most gassers.
tropical36 05/15/20 05:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wind noise

I just bought a 2009 American tradition while I was driving home I noticed a considerable amount of wi d noise. After looking for gaps in the gaskets and windows I believe the windshield may have been replace and looks like a gasket is missing at the bottom of the windshield where the generator slide mates to glass area. I have attached a picture if anyone can help I would appreciate it or take a picture of their coach so I can solve the wind noise. I can’t attach a picture I am a medieval to this forum Good luck! I've just decided to live with mine and it's really not so bad, even though I could live without it. Do let us know, if you find the culprit and a viable solution.
tropical36 05/13/20 08:14am Class A Motorhomes
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