Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'tropical36' found 353 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 18  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Refrigerator has quit working on elec./ where is fuse?

I have a 94 Rexhall Airbus, refrigerator worked fine when I plugged into electric 2 weeks ago, now it does not, just goes to gas. Does anyone know where the fuse is, if there is one. Thank You Martha 12vdc is required for gas operation as well, so I'd be looking for a loss of 120vac power. Be sure it's still plugged in in the back of the fridge, accessible from the outside panel. A meter or small appliance can be checked for power at the outlets there. There could be a 120v fuse back there, inside a panel, so do take a look there, while you're at it. Reset all breakers in the main panel. Check the breakers on your inverter, if you have one.
tropical36 07/14/19 07:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Campground Breakers - EDITED

We have been traveling in our current motorhome for nearly 12 years, with 8 years of it as full timers and the last four at 3/4's of the year so we are very familiar with this coach. I heard something yesterday from a campground owner that I doubt. The campground's electrician said that the campground breakers on the pedestal do not get weak over time and should not need to be replaced. Here's the situation - pulled in to the campground, plugged into 50 amp, Progressive Industries hardwired unit showed good power, fired up both air conditioners and after about 1 hour, the campground breaker tripped. PI showed no errors. We shut down both AC's, reset the pedestal breaker, and started up one AC only for about 2 hours. By that time it was cool enough that we didn't need AC for the night. Two days later, we fired up one AC and then the second AC about 15 minutes later, and the pedestal breaker tripped again after 45 minutes of both AC's running. Reported problem to Campground, said they would look into it. Next day, exactly same situation when we turned on both AC's, one first and then the second one 15 minutes later. From what I have read on this forum, it sounded like a weak breaker that needed to be replaced. That is when we were told that breakers don't get weak and need to be replaced. What do you think? Could this be a problem with something going wrong in our coach as the campground is implying? We will be moving campgrounds in a couple days and want to know what to be watching. Probably not breaker fatigue, but maybe defective or a problem with the connections, as said.
tropical36 07/13/19 06:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Aims Power PWR120001212OS

We are new Class A owners. Was running our furnace and coffee maker and our Pure Sine Inverter warning buzzer sounded a intermittent beep, then constant then shut down. Was I over loading the inverter? Thank you! What size inverter? A 1K should run most any coffee maker. A propane furnace fan, is 12dc and runs directly off of the batteries. My guess is for low batteries and for whatever reason, if your inverter is of adequate size. I'm assuming your converter charger is in combo with your inverter and either way, the battery charging function should be checked out firstly. Using a voltmeter on the batteries and switching the charger off and on should show a difference. Also with the engine's alternator running. If your batteries are shot, then they're not going to hold a charger, regardless.
tropical36 07/09/19 09:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help needed- 1997 Bounder steering parts needed

Hello all, our mo-co-home, as the youngest calls it, needs some steering parts per shop's quote. The unit is a 1997 Fleetwood Bounder, 30ft, 454 gas, P3 chassis, 16,500lbs GVWR. It's our first motorhome, and while we/I did research them, I did not come across the difficulty in sourcing parts for them. i.e., parts being discontinued already. While the unit tracks straight, has little steering play, no uneven tire wear, and is very easy to drive, it does make a racket going down the road so I don't doubt the shop's estimate. 1. Here's where I need most of your help please. Neither the shop nor I could find this discontinued "ROD KIT, STRG LNKG CONN, GM #19354911". Any ideas if there's a place where I can get this? I tried even many auto wrecks, but so far all of them did not keep an inventory of their motorhomes and would not search by chassis either. 2. I also need lower ball joints. Any suggestions for which ones to get? 3. Lastly, I need driver's side idler/bell crank, "ARM KIT STRG (CASTING #26033559 or #26053653, AC DELCO #26034753)". From what I read here Supersteer is the way to go. Any other suggestions? I am fine buying from the US, although of course I'd prefer Canada due to rate exchange. Thank you, and Happy 4th of July! Your chassis is most likely a 96, which should be the same, but do check the VIN. Noise is most likely coming from worn sway bar bushings and easily changed. If you still have air bags, I strongly suggest you go with after market coils from Henderson and be done with it. Saves long term pain and money in the long run, as well. check here for what you need and do call the vendor before they ship, with any questions.... AMAZON Here's another of many sources .... GM P30
tropical36 07/04/19 10:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator question

I’m thinking I know the answer but still have to look at the owners manual. Just got back from our first trip. Cummins Onan 5500 gas generator. The trip there was no problem. Generator ran fine the entire 7 hours it was on. On the way home it shut off 2 hours into the trip, I noticed when it started to get warm inside. Started it back up and it took a couple times but it started. Ran for about 45 minutes then died again. It was 90 degrees on the way home. The trip there wasn’t as warm and it rained for the first 2 hours. I’m thinking it got hot and shut down. When I got home I checked the oil level and it was full. I ran it for 2 hours in the driveway and it ran fine. So a couple thing I think it could be. it got hot and shut down to protect itself. The fuel was boiling due to the heat. Or what I actually did find was the altitude setting was at zero feet. We are around 900 feet where we live. Is it possible being at zero in high temps would cause it to shut down? I know it’s a long shot but it’s the only thing I found. Im still leaning towards vapor lock. Thanks! As long as it'clean with the intake air and such, I'd be looking for an oil overtemp switch. I finally disconnected ours on our old Generac and ran it that way for years.
tropical36 07/02/19 09:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic Refrigerator Help?!

Rookie refrigerator question. We are in the road for our first long road trip, and our Dometic freezer is plenty cold! Fridge “was cold when we left (38 degrees running on AC at our house). Temperature in fridge got up to 51 while driving today! Fins in fridge (older model Clss A 200 Holiday Rambler in great condition) were nice and frosty when we left house 6 hours ago. Now, we are connected to 50amps, and temp dropped to 48 so far after about 3 hours. We have small battery operated fan from Camping World running in there, and seems to be slowly cooling. But SLOWLY! And no frost on the fridge fins now. Freezer is still very cold at like 20 degrees and lower. Any suggestions or help appreciated. We are BRAND NEW to RVing. So any help is greatly appreciated! No clue as to your fridge or coach, so you might consider adding some particulars to you signature. Most modern fridge versions will sw. over to LP automatically when without 120vac. If not, do so manually. Some have had problems with the gas going out while underway, but there should be some sort of an alarm for that. Do you have an inverter and is there an outlet behind the fridge for it, would also be a good question. We do and run the fridge with it, while underway, rather than use propane. Also for short stops, but not for any length of time, as it will soon deplete the batteries. Having an inverter on and leaving the fridge on auto, insures 120vac operation, but again, will deplete the batteries when not on shore power, genset or with the engine's alternator.
tropical36 06/29/19 09:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire Covers - help me decide

I am interested in buying some tire covers. Does anyone have a suggestion of what is best to get? I've heard white covers were better. But I've heard that getting a snap on cover that covers the wheel well, not covering over the tire itself, was better. Do you use a tire cover while parked outside? My unit stays stored inside, but we do park on vacation outside for several weeks at a time. Any recommendation would be appreciated. I got these for mine and with the black for matching the coach. Click it As long as they're covered, they should be good.
tropical36 06/28/19 09:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing Battery Interconnect Solinoid

My 2004 National Tropi-cal electric systems appear to be working property except both Chassis and Coach batteries remain isolated from each other. AC sources(shore and generator) charge coach batteries fine but do not charge chassis batteries. Engine alternator charges my new chassis batteries fine. Have located the Battery Interconnect Solenoid (out of the way behind a circuit board) and measure chassis battery voltage on one side and coach battery voltage on opposite side (~1 VDC difference). Measured 12 VDC on one control terminal indicating solenoid is energized but not connecting batteries. (I assume solenoid is normally open and closed when energized.) Believe that also confirms that whatever relay actuates the relay is OK. Looks like replacement will require both sets of batteries and AC power to be disconnected and I don't know what solenoid to order. Looks to be similar to Battery disconnect relay in another compartment. Think I'll wait until my road trips are complete this year before replacing it. Any suggestions? You might first test it further by actuating your dash switch. If nothing happens, have someone hold it in, while you check for voltage on the coil terminals. Also there should be voltage on the coil terminals, when one of the battery banks reach full charge.
tropical36 06/27/19 09:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: p-30 suspension air bags

Own a 1993 Winnebago Brave.23RC. To replace air bag inside coil springs need to know if it is a P-30! Neither Winnebago nor chevy can tell me! It IS built on a Chevy chassis with a 454 engine. The Motorhome IFS's are all P32. Airbag replacement is a joke and a complete waste of time and money. Henderson Super Steer coils is the only way to go and ordered according to the front end weight. Tip...Go heavier on the coils, if anything.
tropical36 06/25/19 08:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel repair

I have a 2000 Allegro bus and I am in Palmer, Alaska. I need work done on my diesel engine and also the diesel equivalent of a tuneup as I am heading back to Texas. My question is does anyone know of a reliable repair shop that does fast turnaround. I have a service appt for frieghtliner but not until July 3rd. I need to be in Texas ASAP so Any help will be appreciated. Have you tried these in Wasilla and just 13mi from Palmer?.....
tropical36 06/23/19 05:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing a car hauler

Considering buying an enclosed car hauler trailer. My coach is rated to tow 10k My question for those of you towing a large trailer with a motorhome is, do you have to use a hitch with the weight distribution bars? As long as everything is within specs. you should be good to go as it is. Now with ours, we can tow 15K lbs and be well withing GCWR. Hitch is rated for 1500lbs tongue weight. Coach weight loaded is over a ton to the good for GVWR. Just one small problem, the extra ton is all on the front and the rear axle is slightly over weight. Not much or enough to cause any problems, but certainly wouldn't want to add any more weight back there. We tow four down, so NA and if we were to pull a trailer, there's a thing like a hitch caddy available, if a weight distribution hitch wouldn't work.
tropical36 06/21/19 09:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generac generator quits power output...UPDATE

Good that you were able to get it fixed and pretty reasonable, at that....
tropical36 06/21/19 09:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: frustrated 02 Monaco owner

I have the books from the motorhome the one on transmissions cop mrs the allison 3000 and allison 4000 does not say which one it is the ISC engine. Need to check transmission fluid where do you check it at I have the warning light on all oil is alright and full drives alright thinking it is a bad sensor. ( I guess the frustration is being disabled and trying to do everything my self). Cummins dealer will eat up your wallet fast. the book with the r v states this light is a fluid check light it is the 3000 series Allison and the 8.3 Cummins at least found that in the last book last page the first owners hand writing Allison 3000 fluid level can be checked right on the shift pad and if you have the manual, it explains how to do that. I would assume that a 4000 does the same.
tropical36 06/18/19 03:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: curtains for front windshield

Is there a place to buy replacement front windshield that includes drivers side window and passenger side window for 2002 monaco pbd DW bought regular household curtains and sewed them together for our old gasser, that we no longer have.
tropical36 06/17/19 07:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Triple digit heat! Generator won't run

it should be no problem to have the shore cord plugged in with the generator running. The transfer switch keeps it isolated. i disagree with statement, and this has been discussed many times not designed to switch heavy running loads, like the A/C not designed to be a 'fail over' it is simply an automatic choice device which ever one of the (2) power choices you choose , gets selected but only one is supposed to be 'HOT', not generator running and plugged in to shore power We've plugged into shore power before shutting down the genset plenty of times. I mean it's not like you can parallel these two sources. Also the transfer switch relay contactors use the NC contacts for the shore power, so when genset is running the contacts close and essence have priority, so plugging in to shore, should have no effect. One thing we always do though, is to shut off the ac, so that they don't ride down with the genset and even though, our unit shuts down pretty abruptly. Considering that there is a control sw. beside the bed as well, this thought of mine really doesn't have much merit, either.
tropical36 06/13/19 07:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coolant change on 96 Monaco Exec Cummins M11

Hello everyone, Has anyone attempted this at home? I changed my coolant filter once, but I have never done the coolant. I am not able to tell what the capacity is or where the drain plug is. This is a 96 Monaco Executive diesel pusher with the Cummins M11. Thanks in advance.You may have to pull a hose for draining and I only use CAT coolant with mine. Cummins surely has one or compatible, also.
tropical36 06/13/19 07:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2005 Fleetwood Revolution Running Lights not working.

Years ago I had a 2005 American Coach Tradition, basically the same or similar coach. We had problems with the running lights and right side turn signals not working. Fuses and batteries and relays all good. There is a big, maybe 2" round, plastic type grommit that goes through the fire wall under the entry steps to the outside front behind the fiberglass front cap. It is there to make it clean and easy for the wires to pass through the fire wall. What happened in our case is on the outside where the wires pass through the plastic, it gets constantly wet from washing and driving in the rain. Along with the poor roads here in the northeast, the wires corroded and broke. So, sometimes they made contact and worked and other times they didnt work. We chased that problem for weeks. If I remember correctly, we cut the brown wire marked running lights and the yellow wire marked turn signal, drilled through the plastic grommit and then ran a new through, soldered and heat shrinked it and never had that problem again. Good luck, I hate electrical problems.! I've heard of this many times with certain American Coaches. However, on the Revolution, there is no wiring, passing through the under step storage. Still betting on a bad ground return, in this case, with what the OP has been saying.
tropical36 06/05/19 10:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tecma Toilet

Just replaced my touchpad. It still flushed but a lot of pressure had to be applied. I was really shocked when I called my motorhome manufacturer to order on. They wanted over $325.00. I ordered same one from Amazon for $125.00. Since my wiring was good I just cut the wires holding the old touchpad and installed the new one with wiring connectors. It now works great again. Yeah and the controller can be upwards of $300, with a little savings from eBay. Ridiculous for what can be made in China for a few bucks. All because they can. I did find the darn thing, hidden behind all the rubber hoses, so that might be a chore of sorts to change out. As for my Tecma's woes, it was all working fine again, this morning. Go figure and now, I just know when it might fail again....grrrrr! Can't blame this phenomenon on anything except tropical heat, while it was sitting in a shop's lot over the weekend.
tropical36 06/04/19 06:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tecma Toilet

Yep, that's the touch pad, I have. However my toilet is the Tecma Easy Fit, not the Silence Plus. So you're saying that the control box is not the flush pad and is located under the toilet? Correct, the toilet is bolted down, be careful when you screw it in after the repair as the porcelain is easily broken. I was able to pull the toilet away from the wall and replace that module without disconnecting any hoses, it was an easy job. The link was the first I came across so the parts on yours may be different. Call Mine is already away from the wall. I've been into all the connectors and wiring. I'll have a better look at it today, now that I have some idea of what I'm looking for.
tropical36 06/04/19 07:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tecma Toilet

I now have a green light, from all the fooling around with it, I guess. Still no flushing, however!! It was sitting for a couple of days without power and whereas it got pretty warm inside, for whatever that might have done for it. Now were back with cooling ac again, so..........
tropical36 06/03/19 06:50pm Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 18  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS