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RE: Towing

If you get into an accident while towing that much over your weighted limit your insurance company will probably tell you to get lost !! Granted, they may tell you to get lost, if they even have a clue as to weight being a factor or for maybe not wanting to renew your policy next time, but they will have to pay, regardless. civil suits can be filed by anyone for any reason anytime. but knowingly towing 1400-lbs overweight could be called an ambulance chaser's retirement plan. OP, you do what you want. the fact that you're even asking indicates you have doubts. good luck and be safe. Again, where's the weak link and if we would have had an Allison 3000 tranny in our old P30, there wouldn't have been an overweight problem and one that never created a safety problem in the first place. With checking out the specs on some of the newer Pace Arrow, 40ft DP's, the towing capacity is only 800lbs and all because of the Allison 2500 series tranny. Not that anyone, including the owners, pay it any mind and as long as it doesn't alarm and go into limp mode with overheating. I mean what kind of toad, weighs only 800lbs and assuming that one might be at max. GVWR, before hitching up?
tropical36 09/10/19 03:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing

If you get into an accident while towing that much over your weighted limit your insurance company will probably tell you to get lost !! Granted, they may tell you to get lost, if they even have a clue as to weight being a factor or for maybe not wanting to renew your policy next time, but they will have to pay, regardless. civil suits can be filed by anyone for any reason anytime. but knowingly towing 1400-lbs overweight could be called an ambulance chaser's retirement plan. OP, you do what you want. the fact that you're even asking indicates you have doubts. good luck and be safe. Again, where's the weak link and if we would have had an Allison 3000 tranny in our old P30, there wouldn't have been an overweight problem. With checking out the specs on some of the newer Pace Arrow, 40ft DP's, the towing capacity is only 800lbs and all because of the Allison 2500 series tranny. Not that anyone, including the owners, pay it any mind and as long as it doesn't alarm and go into limp mode with overheating. I mean what kind of toad, weighs only 800lbs and assuming that one might be at max. GVWR, before hitching up?
tropical36 09/10/19 03:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing

If you get into an accident while towing that much over your weighted limit your insurance company will probably tell you to get lost !! Granted, they may tell you to get lost, if they even have a clue as to weight being a factor or for maybe not wanting to renew your policy next time, but they will have to pay, regardless.
tropical36 09/10/19 02:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

I have driven in mountains for years, I know not to ride the brakes and to shift down. I was not in heavy mountains for the last 50 miles at least and was on a slow road with a speed limit of from 35 to 55 mph. The brakes worked fine when I got to the campground. I left the engine running while I went and signed in, that took 5 or 10 minutes and then I slowly drove to my camp site, that is when I noticed the pedal sinking to the floor. I think I will go to the Chevy garage in the morning and make an appointment to have the fluid changed and if they think the master cylinder is bad, I will have them change it. Although I agree the fluid should be changed I really don't think the brakes were that hot. I just had the MH in to the Chevy garage back home before the trip and had them pack the wheel bearings and check it over including the brake pads and all fluid levels to the tune of $830 so it is rather disappointing that we are having this problem. Oh well such is life, I am just happy it happened at 5 mph and not 60 mph. Thanks again for your ideas and opinions. Typical scenario for boiling fluid and they usually don't go to the floor like that, until you've stopped and sat for a spell. Probably cuz they get even hotter then and without the amount of air flowing, while in motion. Some years ago an an elderly man was killed, when he and his wife went through a building in downtown Buffalo, WY after not being able to stop their descent, coming down from near 10K ft., Powder River pass. It was thought that he had pulled over at a turn about, somewhere on the way down and that his brakes failed soon after starting down again. For proving a point, we came down that same mountain into Buffalo, 7 days prior in our old gasser and only noticed my pedal being hard. Didn't have a problem until we pulled over in town for about 20 mins. Decided on heading on to Indian campground and that's when I realized that I had no brakes to speak of. Inched our way there in low gear and got setup. The next morning I had brakes, but back tracked to a brake shop at the foot of the mountain for having the fluid changed, anyway. They do one hell of a business there and can tell you many stories about people coming down that mountain. Again, I once had it happen in downtown traffic, as well, prompting me to install a makeshift heat shield near the exhaust manifold.
tropical36 09/09/19 05:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

I have driven in mountains for years, I know not to ride the brakes and to shift down. I was not in heavy mountains for the last 50 miles at least and was on a slow road with a speed limit of from 35 to 55 mph. The brakes worked fine when I got to the campground. I left the engine running while I went and signed in, that took 5 or 10 minutes and then I slowly drove to my camp site, that is when I noticed the pedal sinking to the floor. I think I will go to the Chevy garage in the morning and make an appointment to have the fluid changed and if they think the master cylinder is bad, I will have them change it. Although I agree the fluid should be changed I really don't think the brakes were that hot. I just had the MH in to the Chevy garage back home before the trip and had them pack the wheel bearings and check it over including the brake pads and all fluid levels to the tune of $830 so it is rather disappointing that we are having this problem. Oh well such is life, I am just happy it happened at 5 mph and not 60 mph. Thanks again for your ideas and opinions. Typical scenario for boiling fluid and they usually don't go to the floor like that, until you've stopped and sat for a spell. Probably cuz they get even hotter then and without the amount of air flowing, while in motion. Some years ago an an elderly man was killed, when he and his wife went through a building in downtown Buffalo, WY after not being able to stop their descent, coming down from near 10K ft., Powder River pass. It was thought that he had pulled over at a turn about, somewhere on the way down and that his brakes failed soon after starting down again. For proving a point, we came down that same mountain into Buffalo, 7 days prior in our old gasser and only noticed my pedal being hard. Didn't have a problem until we pulled over in town for about 20 mins. Decided on heading on to Indian campground and that's when I realized that I had no brakes to speak of. Inched our way there in low gear and got setup. The next morning I had brakes, but back tracked to a brake shop at the foot of the mountain for having the fluid changed, anyway. They do one hell of a business there and can tell you many stories about people coming down that mountain.
tropical36 09/09/19 04:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford Questions

Just acquired a 2014 31' Newmar. How do I remove the hub caps on 19.5 tires? How does the "Tow Mode" function. Haven't got the books. Thanks in advance for assistance. As said, two or three nuts with have an indention, to indicate the ones for the wheel cover. Some unscrew and some just pull off.
tropical36 09/09/19 01:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing

My question is has anyone pulled a full size pickup with a 35 ft gas motor home I have a 1997 Fleetwood Bounder 34V with a Ford 460 engine and my tow limit is 3500 lbs my truck is 4900 lbs. Where is the weak link and for possibly correcting it or for at least being aware of it's limitations? We pulled a ton over, all over the country, as most of these specs. are made for the worst of conditions. In our case it was the GM tranny, so we had to be careful and for knowing a few tricks, when climbing long 6% grades in hot weather. Otherwise, we never knew it was back there, just like our present coach, regardless of the terrain.
tropical36 09/09/19 12:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

Thanks for the replies. Those are the only reasons that I could think of too. The fluid has never been flushed to my knowledge. Wouldn't a failing master cylinder have leakage and fluid loss? Or, could the fluid pass by the piston and not leak out? Ed Brake fluid should be changed every 2 - 3 years, with at least DOT 4 and 5.1 would be even better, but may be hard to find. Boiling point for new fluid is over 400F and with you obviously boiling yours, it was probably lucky to have been 212F. Also reeducate yourself on mountain descents and if you're using the brakes much at all, going down, you need to be in low gear. I even had a boiling incident occur in traffic with our old P30 rig. I decided on putting an aluminum shield between the exhaust manifold and the brake lines. Can't say for what it was worth, but in never happened again and we had that coach in all of the lower 48, over a period of 9yrs.
tropical36 09/08/19 02:54pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

Thanks for the replies. Those are the only reasons that I could think of too. The fluid has never been flushed to my knowledge. Wouldn't a failing master cylinder have leakage and fluid loss? Or, could the fluid pass by the piston and not leak out? Ed Brake fluid should be changed every 2 - 3 years, with at least DOT 4 and 5.1 would be even better, but may be hard to find. Boiling point for new fluid is over 400F and with you obviously boiling yours, it was probably lucky to have been 212F. Also reeducate yourself on mountain descents and if you're using the brakes much at all, going down, you need to be in low gear.
tropical36 09/08/19 08:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electric slide outs

We are looking at class A gas motor homes, so for just Jayco and Thor Mirmar. we Plan to include Newmar, Tittin, Fleetwood and a couple of others. So far the slide outs are driven by electric motors (not hydraulic), could I expect to find that on all new class A gas units? Thanks SARGE! I prefer all electric. They have less to contend with and work very well. Longevity of mechanism is very good too or at least with POWERGEAR.
tropical36 09/07/19 09:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Transfer switch

If your Transfer switch has the standard screw in wire lugs. I always tighten the wires with a screwdriver, wait 10 minutes, then retighten. This allows the copper strands to settle. You will be amazed how much more you can tighten the 2nd time. Doug Doug... Have you found any benefit in using a No Oxide grease on the connections, as well? It's sort of a habit with me, but the last time I had to get in there for replacing some short and burnt, crystallized wires, we were in a campground late and I didn't have any available right then. I use nothing on the connections. Doug And probably not a bit necessary, except in the case of copper making contact with aluminum and what the stuff was made for, in the first place.
tropical36 09/05/19 09:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2 6v batters VS 2 12v

Mostly because 2 large six volt batteries in series gives you more amp-hours than the 12 V batteries do. For example Our 6V Interstates have a rating of 220 AH (amp/hour) each where a 12V might give 80-90 AH each for a total of only 160-180 AH (example). Plus the deep cycle battery handles deep discharge and recharge better. Despite what the distributors and retail establishments tell you, marine/dual purpose 12V batteries are NOT true deep cycle batteries. The only commonly available TRUE deep cycle batteries are 6V golf cart batteries. (12V deep cycle batteries DO EXIST, but they are hard to locate (typically special order) and very expensive) Where did you get this idea of 6v only, when you can go to Sam's or Cosco, and buy 8v golf cart batteries, all day long? Same for 12 golf cart batteries, but not so much now, since the industry quit using them for OEM. I'll take a look at Rural King, the next time I'm there for these, as well. As an added note, they haven't made 36v golf carts for years, but there's still many of them out there, including mine, for feeding the battery industry. With the four 12's golf carts, many have since installed the today's standard of six 8's. Now, gels, are especially good and wouldn't mind having four 12's like these, installed in our coach.... 12v deep cycle gel You're absolutely correct about marine batteries, not being true deep cycle, in any sense of the word.
tropical36 09/04/19 04:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Transfer switch

If your Transfer switch has the standard screw in wire lugs. I always tighten the wires with a screwdriver, wait 10 minutes, then retighten. This allows the copper strands to settle. You will be amazed how much more you can tighten the 2nd time. Doug Doug... Have you found any benefit in using a No Oxide grease on the connections, as well? It's sort of a habit with me, but the last time I had to get in there for replacing some short and burnt, crystallized wires, we were in a campground late and I didn't have any available right then.
tropical36 09/04/19 10:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2 6v batters VS 2 12v

I just replaced the house batteries in our Sea Breeze after getting 8 years out of them. It had to 6v in it. Just curious, why do some people run two 6 volts instead of parallel 12v? Keep in mind that two 6's in series, is just one big 12 and granted, it's big, but then if you only have room for four batteries, you now have just two big 12's, rather than four smaller 12's. Usually and unless you find some really large 12's that will fit, the four 6's will still have more capacity. They they found this out, with putting four 12's in golf carts for awhile and have since went back to using six 8's, so again, pure deep cycle comes in multiple voltages. Then we have the AGM's and my preference and even though expensive, they're maintenance free and don't expel gas. Also the ones that I have, came with a 60 month, replacement warranty, so we'll see how that goes, in a couple of more years. Mine are four 12v AGM's, neatly connected in parallel obviously and the main reason for going this route, was for keeping it OEM, like the connection diagram on the compartment door and not like we boon dock for days on end, anyway. No matter what, you'll need to run your genset occasionally to keep them up, anyway.
tropical36 09/04/19 10:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2 6v batters VS 2 12v

Mostly because 2 large six volt batteries in series gives you more amp-hours than the 12 V batteries do. For example Our 6V Interstates have a rating of 220 AH (amp/hour) each where a 12V might give 80-90 AH each for a total of only 160-180 AH (example). Plus the deep cycle battery handles deep discharge and recharge better. Dave Good answer, but keep in mind that pure deep cycle also comes in 12v sizes.
tropical36 09/04/19 10:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pros and Cons of owning a class A RV

Class A is maybe the most comfortable for traveling and surely the most expensive to buy.. I have to disagree. Lots of Mh's on the market much cheaper than a comparable Fiver and the truck to pull it. I've seen just the trucks big enough to pull a fiver with a higher sticker price than some brand new entry level Class A's. That's not counting the price of the trailer. Trucks have become insanely expensive. Comparing apples to apples a Class A is more expensive than a fiver. If you compare an old gas Class A with no toad or an old beat up old toad to a new fiver with a new diesel truck, then it will be cheaper, but that's not apples to apples. A Class A needs a toad to get around. Or you can compare a small Class A to a huge fiver and you win, but again that's not apples to apples. There are a few who buy to big and can't handle then and sell them for a song thats how we got ours. You just need to be able to wait till you find your price range and what you need . I knew somebody would argue the point, but I stand by my observation. The thing is, you can still get out of town, with a MH and no toad, as we did for years, but without a truck, you can't go anywhere, with a fiver. Wouldn't be so much of an argument, if one could pull a big one, with his everyday vehicle, like my F150, but one is really limited there, for size. Even if, you have to ride in the truck, rather than in the house. Are you kidding me and for that, there is no comparison, so no use to list all of the downsides of that, here....
tropical36 09/02/19 02:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pros and Cons of owning a class A RV

Owned a truck and 5th wheel for 5 years and loved it. Unfortunately circumstances caused me to sell both last fall. Thinking now about buying another when I saw a 1999 Class A with less than 100,000 miles and very clean inside. Price was very reasonable. To my surprise I have seen a few others that appeal to me also. (older, clean models with low mileage). Any suggestions as to pros and cons of Class A vs 5ers. Anything special I should be looking for in a used one? Vehicle would be used for one trip annually from southern Ontario to Florida, plus a few summer camping excursions nearby. Motorhomes are meant to roll and to keep rolling, as we like doing. Our 3 mon trips and more have racked up between 7 and 9K miles and for the most part, seldom spend more than a night or two in the same spot. We do a lot of weekenders, out of home base, as well. If we were to be sitting in one spot for months at a time, I'd probably go with a fiver. In fact, wouldn't even buy the monster truck, that usually goes with it and for just paying for having it delivered. These trucks don't make for a very good dinghy, anyway, IMO. Now when you say annual trips to FL, this could mean taking a lot of time for getting there and for taking different routes, other than the straightest and quickest line for getting there. This being the case, a big A would be the way to go, for having comfort both on the road and for extended stays.
tropical36 08/27/19 09:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Keeping mice out what do you do?

I live in a rural area with lots of mice they are impossible to irradiate. I have had major damage to my last RV a 5th wheel where they got into everything and I ended up replacing all the heater duct what a job. We have killed 2 so far in the motor home what do you do to keep them out? I have areas that can't be completely sealed under the bed there is an area that has a lot of wiring it seems to be open on top and very hard to get to, I think that maybe where they can get in. I keep the MH under a free standing metal RV carport that is adjacent to 80 acres of forest with an endless supply of vermin. So far we just have some traps set but I am wondering about the plug in sonic deterrents? Had an invasion of my boat once, while on an extended RV trip. Next time, put in the deterrents with success, but that can't mean anything, since we never had the problem before the one time anyway and forgot about refreshing with new, over the last 2 month trip.
tropical36 08/26/19 09:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coach net vs FMCA road side assist

I always thought GS, CN, FMCA, All State, etc would all have to use the same vendors....none of them actually have equipment. Yeah, they pretty much have to, but just taking on any that might apply and thoroughly checking them out, is another thing. Here's one that's interesting and for the one time, we were towed with our old coach, the person that showed up, was not the one that was called and not the one that actually had a contract with CN. The one that did, did't even have a truck that could handle it, or so I was told, so these guys had a deal going with each other, evidently. They did good though, so who cares....
tropical36 08/25/19 04:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: replacement awning

We are in need of advise or suggestions on replacing our awning fabric. The old one got shredded a few week ago. The metal frame all good. Any comments and suggestions appreciated. Here ya go....Amazon Just make sure you pin or clamp the roller, so it can't dangerously unwind. uTube can help with this, once you know exactly what you have, for brand, model, size....etc I recently replaced a slide topper, which came from Carefree, through Amazon, but by the time I was ready to begin, I had threw away all instructions for one reason or the other and did my own thing and turning a two man job into one and for a very easy one, at that. Again, uTube can really help....
tropical36 08/25/19 08:36am Class A Motorhomes
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