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 > Your search for posts made by 'udidwht' found 22 matches.

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RE: Fuel economy and additives

For best MPG's find out where the low-high torque curve is on your engine and keep it in that range when driving on the highway. With my RV (94 Southwind Storm 28ft) that is roughly 58-62mph. Go north of 62 and the MPG's drop fast. My last track from Renton, Wa. to Medford, Or. I netted 10.4mpg. Coming back same stretch it was 8.4mpg (headwind). No towing.
udidwht 06/13/19 04:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Intermittent ignition issue

For starters the distributor only has 1 ignition module. Not 2. Th ignition switch will be on the backside lower end of the steering column. I'd replace it (I did on mine). Use Delco parts whenever possible. Thermal grease must be used on the bottom-side of the ICM not dielectric grease. The pick up coil can only be replaced by removing the distributor from the engine. Then the distributor shaft must be removed from the distributor body. I'm willing to bet that the (pick up coil) is what is causing your sudden engine off scenario. I just replaced both my ICM and pick up coil in my RV myself. The following pic is of the original pick up coil after having been in my RV since new 1994 with 58,301 miles on it.... https://www.dropbox.com/s/7v3r2hi4q0ckdef/20190515_220427%5B1%5D.jpg?dl=0
udidwht 06/11/19 01:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 92 Fleetwood Souithwind - opinions

I own a 1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm on a P3X chassis. It does not have the autopark system (thank god). The RV's overall weight will determine if it comes with the autopark system. When I purchased the RV it was just shy of 45,XXX miles (US) and had the roof redone, exhaust manifolds redone. The generator (Micro4K) had only 346hrs. Everything in the house worked perfect and was not molested with hacks of any sort. I've since then replaced most if not all the engine electrical items such as TPS, MAP sensor, IAC, Idle control solenoid, Purge valve. Frt./Rear VSS sensors, Trans shift solenoids, Trans wire harness connector, O2 Sensor, T-stat, Radiator hoses, by-pass hose, New auxiliary fan, New fan relay, New ignition switch, Full axle rebuild, New fridge, New LP regulator, New ICM and pick up coil, New spark plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, New house batteries, new chassis battery etc...(likely forgot some other items...LOL!) That was all replaced before waiting for one or more of them to fail at an unlikely time (on the road). PM work is what will save you from an unfortunate event on the road. The 454 TBI is a very reliable engine and relatively easy to work on. Mine also does not have any air pumps(smog ****).
udidwht 06/08/19 12:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Availability of service

That's completely unacceptable for anyone to make someone wait 7 days for a starter replacement. Absolutely unacceptable. I don't care how busy a shop says they are. Unacceptable.
udidwht 05/25/19 04:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

Fram equals ****. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTNJLEV8CG8&index=102&list=WL
udidwht 02/20/19 01:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

The fram filters I use are the top o the line if you look closely. They wouldn't be in business if they were so bad. You're waiting for your filters to fill up the pores so they filter better, lmao. Kind of like saying 20w50 is good for your motor, lol. Did you even read the manual? Or is that not good enough for you either? Smarter than the engineers I see. You're just into the old wive's tales of 50 years ago. 20w50 is obviously the wrong viscosity but you're too stubborn to accept your mistake. And sorry you wasted your money on an analysis. You didn't even do it correctly to obtain good results. Read this, https://parts.olathetoyota.com/blog/4680/is-oil-testing-worth-doing/ Frams history of less than stellar quality speaks for itself. Been building big blocks longer than I can remember as well as air-cooled Type-4 engines they don't have issues with 20W-50. Ever stick an oil pressure gauge on and look? I have. Oil filter efficiency does increase with use. Fact One doesn't waste time when doing an analysis. You waste time by guessing. Old wives tale? If that were the case I'd be changing it too early like you and (for no reason). Newer oil will NOT preform better than a current oil that has a high TBN. Saying otherwise is a wives tale. And by the way....these aren't Toyota engines. LOL!
udidwht 11/05/18 04:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

I know you said your local FLAPS didn't have the proper viscosity but 20w50 isn't even close to being listed. Not having problems with it is just your guess. 20w50 is used for high temp air cooled Harleys and my mercury racing motor recommends it especially since most of our boating is done in 85*+ temps. That stuff must flow like molasses in january so the oil analysis would be beneficial for you. This is your chart, https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1971/45735314161_b124356131.jpgScreenshot_1 by 185 EZ, on Flickr Flow like molasses...no You do realize it's a MULTI viscosity oil eh. It doesn't say 50w-20.
udidwht 11/05/18 04:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

Clearly we will butt heads all day long on this. I have other vices that I can throw $3X.XX away in a heartbeat, But if all you're trying to save is $3X.XX dollars a year on something critical then someone once told me, "My thought is if one gripes over the cost of even (1) then RV's aren't for you" A year? Not even. "I've got too much at stake to wait till the last mile" Must explain the Fram filters you use. They don't even get to share the same room space with any of my vehicles. Fram = Cra_ Mobil 1 Extended Performance, WIX or NAPA Gold filters or nothing.
udidwht 11/05/18 04:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

You're misinterpreting everything I say. I'm not griping over the cost of the analysis, I'm trying to justify it. You're trying to beat the system by doing an analysis when it's just better to spend the money on an oil change. What happens when they say you need an oil change? Now you have the cost of both. In the long run you're the one wasting time and money while i'm enjoying fresh oil for my expensive ride. Over a 3 year period I've spent about $150. Yours would be less with fewer qts of oil If you take the time to send in an oil sample once a year you've spent $90 plus shipping? Or are you going to wait till the extra 4000 miles and send in another oil sample? No misinterpreting. I can tell from (1) analysis over a given number of miles/time how long the will do it's job proper before needing changing. The VR-1 will start with a TBN of 8 in 3,720 miles (13mos) the TBN only dropped to 6.1 Still very excellent oil. It will do it's job no differently or less effectively than fresh oil. I'll skip (1) year. If my calculations are correct (based on other samples in the past in diff. vehicles) the oil will easily go another year. I've averaged between a 1-2.5 point TBN drop every 1 -1.5 years. If I only spent $3X.XX dollars for oil & filter every (3) years I'll have saved money & time. And if I can go longer? No way to know unless you pull a sample...and how much do I save if I catch an impending issue via the analysis? Priceless. Anytime one saves that adds up to other savings.
udidwht 11/05/18 08:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

Maybe the oil is still "good" but to keep any oil in a motor for over a year is just asking for problems. There is still stuff in the oil that's hard on seals and gaskets. Again incorrect. A simple search can provide a lot of info on this. There is not a single engine that has ever had an oil related issue as a result of going 6000-7000 miles. Never. Fact. Changing the oil more often than necessary has consequences. Oil requires some miles to be put on it before it actually lowers wear effectively vs 100% virgin oil out of a bottle. Much the same with an oil filter. A filter filters better after haven been in the engine for 1000 miles+. A finding of high copper alone is not an issue and quite common unless other abrasive wear metal/s such as iron, aluminum, chromium, etc. are present at higher than normal levels. Some reasons for high copper level: 1. Oil cooler/s (GM oil leaching from cooler) 2. Radiator/s tubing 3. Leaks from radiators (no leak in mine) 4. Oil additive/s The above instance (high copper) would also be showing other higher than average wear metals & contaminates in an analysis if there were an issue. Copper in and of itself? No. Normal. Again nope. I never said anything about oil issues with oil going 6000 to 7000 miles. My manual suggests 7500 miles. I'm not going to send in an analysis to find out if I can still run the oil after that. I'd rather spend the $50 and just do an oil change. I also said keeping old oil in the motor for over a year isn't a good idea. Is 20w50 recommended for your climate? edit; I can't find anything that suggests oil and filters are more effective after 1000 miles. If that's true then you sent in for an analysis at only 2,720 miles Only thing I heard was KN air filters would do that. The media of an oil filter will increase it's ability to trap fine particles better after haven been ran in an engine for some time. Larger holes fill and decrease in size over a period of time increasing the filters filtering efficiency. It's similar with air filters as well. As they dirty they filter better. The RV I own I purchased used so I do an analysis from time to time. The price of an analysis is a drop i the bucket in terms of what most of us spend on these rigs. My thought is if one gripes over the cost of even (1) then RV's aren't for you. Used 20W-50 due to the local FLAPS not having the viscosity at the time of purchase. BBC have no issue with it. If I could extend oil intervals to every 3 years that saves me time & money. Newer oil doesn't work better if the current oil is still doing it;s job just fine. The TBN is the number to look at. A good read: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
udidwht 11/05/18 06:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

To the OP, I wouldn't call that a completely clean report. Copper level as noted is high, and could be due to any one of a variety of conditions. Personally I would change the oil and filter and have another analysis done at 4,000 miles. YMMV The high copper level is normal for the 454 BBC. It comes from the rather large oil cooler. Very common finding in oil analysis from BBC engines. Can you cite a reference? According to Blackstone it's approximately nine times higher than the universal average for similar engines. From other BBC engine owners who reported the same finding. That's pretty much the "reference" I was expecting, but I'm not going to argue the point. If it were my engine, and I received the results and the comparisons to universal averages as cited in Blackstone's report, I would do as I suggested in my original post. Unsubscribed and dropping the mic! :) And you don't think that may have already been done? I assure you this isn't the 1st BBC I've owned. LOL! Mic drop.
udidwht 11/04/18 07:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

I don't see the need to have an oil analysis done unless you are having problems or maybe want to purchase a used vehicle. To have them tell me my oil is good for another year isn't worth the time and money. Just do an oil change. Maybe the oil is still "good" but to keep any oil in a motor for over a year is just asking for problems. There is still stuff in the oil that's hard on seals and gaskets. Incorrect. If that were the case the oil analysis would have showed that. If one is worried about something in the oil that's typical of oil after haven been ran a few thousand miles what's a few thousand miles more? Nope Go ahead and keep your old oil in it. You'll find out the hard way long term All my long term vehicles have never had an oil related issue due to preventative maintenance and never wasted my money on an oil analysis. Again incorrect. A simple search can provide a lot of info on this. There is not a single engine that has ever had an oil related issue as a result of going 6000-7000 miles. Never. Fact. Changing the oil more often than necessary has consequences. Oil requires some miles to be put on it before it actually lowers wear effectively vs 100% virgin oil out of a bottle. Much the same with an oil filter. A filter filters better after haven been in the engine for 1000 miles+. A finding of high copper alone is not an issue and quite common unless other abrasive wear metal/s such as iron, aluminum, chromium, etc. are present at higher than normal levels. Some reasons for high copper level: 1. Oil cooler/s (GM oil leaching from cooler) 2. Radiator/s tubing 3. Leaks from radiators (no leak in mine) 4. Oil additive/s The above instance (high copper) would also be showing other higher than average wear metals & contaminates in an analysis if there were an issue. Copper in and of itself? No. Normal.
udidwht 11/04/18 07:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

To the OP, I wouldn't call that a completely clean report. Copper level as noted is high, and could be due to any one of a variety of conditions. Personally I would change the oil and filter and have another analysis done at 4,000 miles. YMMV The high copper level is normal for the 454 BBC. It comes from the rather large oil cooler. Very common finding in oil analysis from BBC engines. Again, for reasons like this, you need you have to have consistent analysis reports to develop the trend data. A spot check info can never give you a complete picture of how the engine is wearing. Again misleading.... If an issue were present... the analysis numbers would give a clue such as coolant presence. Without doing even (1) your guessing.
udidwht 11/04/18 07:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

To the OP, I wouldn't call that a completely clean report. Copper level as noted is high, and could be due to any one of a variety of conditions. Personally I would change the oil and filter and have another analysis done at 4,000 miles. YMMV The high copper level is normal for the 454 BBC. It comes from the rather large oil cooler. Very common finding in oil analysis from BBC engines. Can you cite a reference? According to Blackstone it's approximately nine times higher than the universal average for similar engines. From other BBC engine owners who reported the same finding.
udidwht 11/04/18 07:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

I don't see the need to have an oil analysis done unless you are having problems or maybe want to purchase a used vehicle. To have them tell me my oil is good for another year isn't worth the time and money. Just do an oil change. Maybe the oil is still "good" but to keep any oil in a motor for over a year is just asking for problems. There is still stuff in the oil that's hard on seals and gaskets. Incorrect. If that were the case the oil analysis would have showed that. If one is worried about something in the oil that's typical of oil after haven been ran a few thousand miles what's a few thousand miles more?
udidwht 11/04/18 07:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

To the OP, I wouldn't call that a completely clean report. Copper level as noted is high, and could be due to any one of a variety of conditions. Personally I would change the oil and filter and have another analysis done at 4,000 miles. YMMV The high copper level is normal for the 454 BBC. It comes from the rather large oil cooler. Very common finding in oil analysis from BBC engines.
udidwht 11/04/18 07:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil analysis

But the kicker is the cost of the analysis, to include the TBN check, is about the same as an oil change. The savings of extending the change interval based on an analysis is never realised for a gas engine but will be for a diesel when the owner is dealing with oil capacities that can be as much as 5 times that of a gasoline engine. Getting the oil checked at each change is a good thing to do but you have to be consistent to develop the trend data. Without the trend data the test only provides a brief snapshot of the engine wear. And don't forget the transmission. https://i.imgur.com/kDOp0pel.jpg https://i.imgur.com/skCh6WGl.jpg For diesels it's flipped. Everyone already knows they can go hundreds of thousands of miles before a tear-down is warranted (all things equal). Cost for analysis is more over the long run. With a gas engine, get (1) analysis extend your interval, stick with said brand of oil/filter (every OCI) and the cost is cut and still less over time compared to how many you'd do over the life of a diesel engine. Also pick an oil brand and stick with it. No reason to gripe over the cost of an analysis from time to time. We're all in the $hole$ the second you drove your rig off the lot. Without even (1) your guessing.
udidwht 10/09/18 04:47am Class A Motorhomes
Oil analysis

For those who are interested.....(don't bother posting regarding the contact info) I'm the least bit worried. None of us are that special. As you can see oil will easily live beyond 1 year. Easily. Oil analyzed: Valvoline VR1 20W-50 conventional Filter: Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter https://www.dropbox.com/s/qpzub1q70cn3c77/RV%207.4L%20oil%20report.pdf?dl=0
udidwht 10/08/18 09:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: P30 belt?

Have the old belt and 4 ribs remain of the total 6. One side of the belt came apart leaving the other side intact.
udidwht 08/11/18 12:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: P30 belt?

I would guess that the belts on some are v-belts as shown in Gates website. Yes, your belt could have spun when alternator failed, causing it to become brittle. It did just as I pulled (quite literally) into my parking spot on Granville Island. As soon as the squealing started I shutdown. Turns out the rear bearings fell out allowing for the shaft to seize. Swapped out the alternator the following morning.
udidwht 08/09/18 11:01am Class A Motorhomes
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