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 > Your search for posts made by 'valhalla360' found 758 matches.

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RE: Allowing non-housebroken dog to move in

Maybe take the initiative and potty train it? You and the kids will likely have to take the lead. Yes, old dogs can learn. Google potty training dogs and lots of free resources. It may sound horrible but if she is mostly living alone, that is probably her closest friend and companion right now. Sorry no easy answers.
valhalla360 10/15/19 06:16am RV Pet Stop
RE: Quiet generators

Most of the newer inverter generators are really quiet. The days when honda was night and day better have passed. Still top of the line quality but the difference has shrunk dramatically. Most will give you a decibel rating. You can check that but understand, that rating is typically at idle or 1/4 output. When running flat out, all of them (including Honda) make a lot more noise.
valhalla360 10/14/19 12:19am Tech Issues
RE: How do they get in?

double post
valhalla360 10/14/19 12:18am Tech Issues
RE: How do they get in?

double post
valhalla360 10/14/19 12:17am Tech Issues
RE: How do they get in?

Almost impossible to stop the critters. Dont leave food in your vehicle. Toyotas are worse. They did chew through the air box on my moms car. Bingo. Critters can get through holes you wouldn't believe and they will chew through other stuff you wouldn't believe. Doesn't help while in use but in storage, getting the food out is your best bet.
valhalla360 10/14/19 12:16am Tech Issues
RE: Generator pros and cons

10-15yr ago Honda was the gold standard with a bunch of base metal competitors. Honda is still the 24carrot gold standard. Yamaha is like 22carrot gold (only because they are less common) But there are now a bunch of 16-18carrot gold generators out there that have closed the gap for a lot less money. Solar: If you have minimal electrical consumption, it's a nice option but if you want to run the air/con, you really want a generator and preferably at least a 3000w unit, if you don't want to fiddle around to make it work.
valhalla360 10/09/19 04:50am Tech Issues
RE: Immobile truck camper

Assuming you have a 1/2 ton and it's legal to live there. Yes, you could slide the truck under it to take up a big percentage of the weight with the legs holding the rest, so that it looks like the truck is holding it. Most can even be used with just the legs and no truck (that's you you typically see them shown at RV shows).
valhalla360 10/09/19 04:43am Truck Campers
RE: Ideal V8 rpms when towing?

Transmission selector in D, tow haul button engaged. Let the truck decide what's best. :D Yep, with modern trucks, the engineers have sorted out which gear the transmission wants. Now if you have an older truck or manual transmission, it's valid question.
valhalla360 10/09/19 12:00am Truck Campers
RE: Deceptive traffic citations

Since you presumably have no points (ie: it was your first ticket ever)...just pay and move on. Even if you fight it, they often still charge you court costs, which ironically are about the same as the price of the ticket. This is in addition to you taking time to travel back to be at the court. Problem is the Cop not only has the radar output. He also gets the benefit of the doubt in a "he said, she said" situation as the court presumes he doesn't benefit...of course that ignores the fact that he has a quota (even if it's not official) and benefit by not getting in trouble for missing his quota (yes, they will word it to not be a quota but it amounts to the same thing).
valhalla360 10/08/19 11:54pm General RVing Issues
RE: Do you tow a Jeep behind your 5th wheel?

Check the tow ratings also...both for the truck and with the 5er manufacturer. Good chance with a 2008 3/4 ton, you are over the limits. Also, how much is the jeep braking system going to cost? That's well above most states limits for a trailer without brakes. Plus there is the hassle if you can't get a pull through site. You won't be able to back up with the jeep attached, so that means disconnecting before setting up camp and then reconnecting after pulling out. If you are traveling 2 weeks straight, that's a bit of a hassle.
valhalla360 10/07/19 11:28pm Towing
RE: Thanks for fixing the forum problems.

Nope still having the issue. Ironically on yesterday's thread asking about the issue...which shows up in the listing as closed.
valhalla360 10/07/19 11:21pm Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Diagnosing the error: depends on the forum?

Getting similar issues: We're sorry. An error has occurred. We are unable to process your request due to an error with our site. If you receive this message again, we may be experiencing some system difficulties. An email has been sent to our development staff to diagnose the problem. Once again, we apologize for this inconvenience.
valhalla360 10/07/19 06:06am Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Question for full timers...

$2500/month is a reasonable number but way too much variability to give you an idea if that will work for you without telling us how you want to travel. - A DP is one of the more expensive options. - How many miles do you want to cover per week/month? - Do you do maintenance yourself or hire it all out? - Do you stay for a week/month at a park or only a night or two or boondock for free? - How much will you spend on tourist attractions? - How often will you eat out? - Hobbies that cost money? - Will you be keeping the house and associated items? What we did was took our household budget and modified it to reflect our estimate of what we thought our costs will be. That came out pretty close. A few thoughts: - It's full time not a vacation, you don't have to put in 2000miles per week. We shoot for 100-150miles per day 2-3 times per week with occasional week/month stationary. - We've done the boat thing also. You don't need to cross oceans to take incredible trips. Google the Great Loop. It comes with it's own challenges but no need to cross oceans on a 40' boat.
valhalla360 10/07/19 12:22am Full-time RVing
RE: li battery pack of my dreams

Sticking points are r... cold weather operation. Actually shouldn't be a big issue unless you are trying to heat with electric (unless you get to really extreme cold). The big amp-hr use is typically the air/con, which you don't typically use when it's cold.
valhalla360 10/04/19 06:39am Tech Issues
RE: Tankless Water Heater Compatibility?

Keep in mind venting requirements for propane units. They can be dangerous if not installed properly.
valhalla360 10/04/19 06:34am Travel Trailers
RE: Tankless Water Heater Compatibility?

Assuming you have a 30amp/120v camper...no it won't work. - Unit is 220v. - Unit is 6,000w (6kw)...30amp/120v maxes out at 3600w. If you have a 50amp rig, it may be possible if you rig up a 220v circuit but you may need to manage what is being operated as the water heater will eat up around 60% of available capacity by itself.
valhalla360 10/03/19 06:05am Travel Trailers
RE: Thinking about beds.

As long as there is space for the extra 6", it should work fine. If you have some spare 2x6s around, you might dummy it up quick and dirty, before building the box to make sure you find it comfortable.
valhalla360 10/02/19 08:17am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: General thoughts on Hybrids

Hybrids come in different flavors: - Parallel: Gas engine that drives the wheels but also has a secondary electric motor that can add a boost during acceleration. - Serial: Gas engine connected to a generator and electric motors are driving the wheels. - Plug-In-Hybrid: Has a larger battery pack and can run without starting the gas engine on shorter trips (10-50miles) but when the battery runs down, the gas engine starts up and it runs like a serial. Some of these don't do great in gas power mode. But in terms of purchase, you have to look at your driving pattern. - Find a standard gas engine car that is equivalent and look at the MPG. - Find the MPG of the Hybrid. Now estimate how many miles a year you will travel. Divide by the MPG and multiply by the cost of a gallon of gas...that's how much you will save per year. If that savings is enough, go hybrid but you may find that a comparable compact gas car getting 40-45mpg, going up to 50mpg may take a lot of miles to pay for itself. Plug-In-Hybrid is a little more complicated. You have to estimate how many miles you typically drive in a day. Let's say you have a 40 mile commute and the car has a 25 mile range on battery (you recharge at night in your garage). - You do the same calculation but assume 15miles per day as whatever the straight gas MPG is plus add in the cost of the KWH for the overnight charging for the other 25 miles. - If the commute is only 10 miles, you will have almost no gas expense but don't forget the electric bill cost. - If you commute 150 miles per day, the math is the same but you may find, it's not much better than a standard gas engine. For your typical commuter, Plug-In-Hybrids are really going to take over in the next few years. Pure Battery EVs have a huge battery pack cost because they are trying to make them functional over hundreds of miles. A Plug-In-Hybrid can size the battery pack much smaller as it only needs to meet the typical commute (10-30miles typically) to get most miles under battery alone. That keeps them price competitive against gas engines while getting 70-95% of miles under battery power.
valhalla360 10/02/19 08:11am Tow Vehicles
RE: Newbie question about 3.73 locking rear axle on F250 4x2

Just a little refresher on how these work: Each wheel experiences it's own coefficient of friction based on the surface under it. Exceed that and the wheel slips providing no additional motive force if you give it more gas. In addition, there is a static and dynamic coefficient of friction.In most cases the dynamic coefficient is lower, so once a wheel starts to spin, you actually have less traction. - Standard Slip Differential: Power is applied to both wheels but once one starts slipping, power to the 2nd wheel is limited to the amount sent to the slipping wheel. So if the coefficient of friction is 0.1 and 0.5...you have two wheels applying power based on 0.1. So if you have one wheel on dry pavement and one on slick ice, it's like both are on slick ice in terms of the available traction. - Limited Slip Differential: Normally works the same but if one wheel starts to spin significantly faster than the other, a clutch mechanism locks the differential, so the 2nd wheel gets as much power. Net result, you have one wheel at 0.1 and one at 0.5 for an average traction of 0.3 (much higher than a standard diff). Downside, because the first wheel is spinning, it might experience a slightly lower coefficient of friction. Now if both wheels are at 0.1, you won't see any significant improvement on available traction - Manual Locking Differential: Generally used only on poor surfaces as it negates the purpose of a differential (allowing the wheels to travel different distances as you go around corners). This can be bad on dry pavement as it puts a lot of stress on the drivetrain and can burn up tires. This has the advantage, that you can lock the diff and apply power based on the static coefficient of friction, which maximizes the traction available to the axle. If you punch it with a limited or manual diff, both wheels can slip going into dynamic friction and the rear end gets squirly as they are effectively sliding on the surface. With standard diff, only one wheel typically spins, so the other acts as a rudder to keep the truck in line (there are limits to this effect, so a standard diff truck can still have the rear end get out of control but less likely to happen). There are also electronic tricks using the brakes that can simulate limited slip. By independently applying just a little bit of braking to a slipping wheel, a standard diff sees more traction on the slipping wheel and sends more power to the non-slipping wheel. The big take away...if the wheels are on the same surface (with identical Coefficients of Friction), don't expect the diff to have much impact on traction. If they are on different surfaces, it can have a huge difference. Also, spinning the wheels can be fun but almost never provides more traction. PS: Marginally related, there can be a huge difference between a truck with RV vs truck by itself. Empty, most trucks only have about 40% of the weight on the rear axle. Weight on the wheel times the CoF, determines how much thrust the wheel can provide. If you have a truck camper or trailer applying weight to the rear axle, it can move the distribution up to 50-70% on the rear axle, significantly increasing available traction.
valhalla360 10/02/19 07:56am Tow Vehicles
RE: Good news... dreaming of BEV Class A

"" For local light duty delivery trucks running fixed short routes...electric is viable. That's not what is being promoted. For local delivery, I can't see how the routes could not be "fixed" same as ICE. For instance, package delivery. Of old as the package is read, somebody decide which truck it should go on. Then the driver decide where in the truck, and what order of stops, so he can get to the package when he gets to that stop. Now, the package is scanned, the computer decides which truck, and likely where in truck, and programs the route. Would it be that hard to make the computer limit the maximum travel distance? Terminal to terminal? In the past, the terminals where spaced based on the distance a driver could travel in the hours he could legally drive. Would it be so hard to space them by the limit of battery charge life? In the past, (and probably still) slip seat operation, a driver would get to a motel at the end of shift, get out, another driver get in, move the load toward destination. Replace the motel with a charge station, swap tractors instead of drivers. For local delivery, BEV will work now in many applications. Your standard UPS truck rarely if ever maxes out on the loaded weight, only runs relatively short distances (at least on urban routes), usually at low speeds allowing greater efficiency and returns to a base where it could charge overnight. Very much viable for a large part of the market. For Autonomous driving, local delivery doesn't offer as much immediate benefit as you still need someone to hand over the packages. Complicated urban driving is the most difficult for AI to handle so it likely would be a later adaptation of the technology. Long haul, BEV is problematic. A driver can run up to 14hr per day. Assuming an average of 50mph, that's 700 miles. If they use a team, the truck can essentially drive an unlimited number of hours with just short stops for bathroom and to swap out drivers. For Autonomous driving, long haul is very suitable to AI taking over. It's usually rural freeways with limited complications. They can go as far as the truck has range. You can have trucks draft very close to other AI trucks significantly increasing fuel efficiency. They don't care what time it is, so they could be timed to pass through congested cities late night when traffic is minimal. Lots of easy benefits. One thought for AI is to keep the driver. In complicated urban settings, the driver takes over but out on the open highway the computer takes over. This is easier technologically and while the computer is running the truck, the driver could be tasked with other things like taking calls for the company or other data processing.
valhalla360 10/01/19 07:00am Class A Motorhomes
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