Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'westend' found 111 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 6  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: solar update

Thanks for the update. Solar and RVing are like peanut butter and jelly. They just are made for each other. One big benefit if you have a charge controller that will float charge, is that your batteries will always be charged when you decide to move from the storage location.
westend 09/08/19 04:24am General RVing Issues
RE: Best wax for lazy people?

I've used Parfe liquid wax (no need to wipe it down after spraying on) with very good results. It is a very hard wax and leaves a decent shine. Building a deep shine needs buffing and many coats, including polishes. The Parfe is a good substitute. Available here:Parfe wax
westend 09/08/19 04:15am General RVing Issues
RE: Water heater problems

The horizontal button is probably the valve for the pilot when lighting. Turn your temperature knob all the way down, try the horizontal button. If it is seized, you may get it to move by introducing a penetrating oil (like Rust Blaster or similar) and minimally moving or tapping on the button. Be careful not to break the plastic. If that happens or you are unable to move it, a new gas valve is the solution.
westend 09/08/19 03:07am Travel Trailers
RE: Hotwater Heater

Typical RV water heater size tanks are 6 gallon, 10 gallon, and bigger for larger coaches. My standing pilot 6 gallon water heater takes about 10 minutes to fully heat the water.
westend 09/08/19 02:50am Travel Trailers
RE: Hurricane advise?

I've read where some owners use ground-attached anchors to keep their rig upright. I believe those anchors are current building code in certain areas of Florida.
westend 08/29/19 01:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Issue

Ice and Water adhesive membranes need to be covered for UV protection. If it was mine, I wouldn't remove it. FWIW, when I reroofed the sticks and bricks, I installed a full covering using GAF Weatherwatch, adhesive membrane. Part of the roof was not covered with shingles for about three weeks. I haven't experienced any damage to the membrane.
westend 08/29/19 01:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: Electric cooler off of 12 volts

How do you close up the outside fridge vent panel? For me, I will want it 100% weather sealed, then insulated like the walls are insulated. I replaced the formed vent with a solid panel. An owner can cover the inside of the vented panel with a solid panel, add in the requisite insulation and have exactly what you desire. When installing insulation, opt for extruded foam board. It is a much superior insulator than fiberglass batt and won't suffer from condensation as much as the spun stuff.
westend 08/28/19 07:57pm General RVing Issues
RE: question about battery

Even with the disconnect switch on the off position, you will still have a small load...That is not always true. When I turn my disconnect switch off, everything is off; there are zero loads connected.Even the emergency battery powered brake system? That is the most important thing to have powered and should always be powered even with a disconnect switch interrupting any power to the trailer. It will draw no current when in the standard, non operating, position so isn't a drain on the battery(s). If the emergency brake switch on the trailer tongue is not powered, add a wire, a fuse, and the correct terminals from the switch to the battery, bypassing the disconnect switch. The reason this is best practice is that it makes the emergency brake system operable, even with operator error of forgetting the switch before traveling.
westend 08/27/19 05:39pm Travel Trailers
RE: Need Flat Panel TV mounting advice

Using a backer board that is glued and screwed to the wall is a great idea, using "T" nuts to mount the bracket to the board is the best way to go. Two drill bits are required for mounting the nuts, a std bit for the thru hole the threaded nipple goes in and a forstner bit to counter sink the head. Now on to the bolts to use for added holding power for the backer board, my suggestion is to use Jack nuts. They are specifically designed for thin material and your walls are most likely 1/10" thick and they come in various lengths. As mentioned, Toggle Bolts(not wing nut bolt) are not really a great idea, they can fall into the wall and they require a much larger hole for installation. Molly bolts are available for installation in thin material, but are not as good as jack nuts and not as strong. They look very similar and work the same. In some cases you need a special tool for installation, I have installed 1/4"-20 jack nuts using a long cap screw and a nut instead of the special tool. Here is a link to a mfg. You will find YouTube videos on the use of the jack nuts. When I am doing a similar installation I countersink the flange on the back side of the board just like I do for the "T" nuts. I use forstner bits because they make flat bottom holes and not tapered. I mounted a 32" LCD to a backer board in my trailer. I chose to drill holes in the board, make recesses in the holes on the back of the board, lead bolts in from the back, and bolt the TV mount to the backer board. It worked slick.
westend 08/02/19 09:12pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: 1982 Coachmen 15' rebuild

I restored a 19' Starcraft. The link is in my signature line. Photobucket has captured my pics and is ransoming them. Images can be sent on demand. You will need to either move the waste tank or keep the toilet close to its present location. I moved mine about three feet, the limit to use the same tank location. Good luck with the restoration. Make crude layout plans and schedule the work involved. Even a simple plan is better than no plan.
westend 07/02/19 10:02am Travel Trailers
RE: A/C on 20 amp

We don't know how long the total circuit is from distribution box to trailer inlet so advice on cord length and gauge is problematic. One of the better things you can buy for your RV'ing (and other household use) is a Kill-a-watt device. One side is connected to the power source and the KAW has a receptacle for the device needing power. Mine will measure amperage, voltage, and watts consumed. Handy thing to have around when there is a question of amounts of power needed and what is happening inside the copper wires. FWIW, I power a table saw with a longer cord. I bought a length of 8 AWG and attached an industrial male plug to the cord. I've never measured the power consumed since it has never tripped a breaker or sagged under the biggest loads. I mention it as an example of how larger wire gauges can bring reliability to the application.
westend 06/29/19 12:54am Travel Trailers
RE: Terrible factory splices in brake wiring

What you've done is a series connection. You have both drums in series on one side and have two drums in series from one end of axle to the other. A Star pattern typically has each drum having it's own pair of wires. The power can be distributed by a series wire connection to the source of power or, as I did, through a distribution block so that each brake assembly has its own pair of wires. I pulled it through heavy plastic flex-conduit and plastic boxes located against the frame. There are still two splices near the drums to power the magnets. I soldered mine and covered with heatshrink. The 12 ga you used is definitely an improvement and you should notice better braking, immediately.Thanks for the clarification. What did you use for a distribution block? Does it have a watertight cover? I had a multi-terminal block laying around. It has about 20 terminals. It resides inside a box that I added to the trailer tongue. I split the (-) and (+) leads on the block, the trailer umbilical and emergency braking leads are apportioned to the block with jumpers between terminals. On the same distribution block, I have the light connections. There are sealed distribution blocks if you feel the need. FWIW, at one time, I worked on a fleet of trailers and trucks. The trailers, which were continually abused, were a pain to diagnose electrical problems. I learned from that experience and added the 12V distribution block on my travel trailer. If I experience a potential brake or light problem, diagnosis of the electrical part is easy. Good luck on the brake electrical. Your renovation to 12 ga may be all that you need to get operation at a reliable level.
westend 06/26/19 04:01am Travel Trailers
RE: Terrible factory splices in brake wiring

What you've done is a series connection. You have both drums in series on one side and have two drums in series from one end of axle to the other. A Star pattern typically has each drum having it's own pair of wires. The power can be distributed by a series wire connection to the source of power or, as I did, through a distribution block so that each brake assembly has its own pair of wires. I pulled it through heavy plastic flex-conduit and plastic boxes located against the frame. There are still two splices near the drums to power the magnets. I soldered mine and covered with heatshrink. The 12 ga you used is definitely an improvement and you should notice better braking, immediately.
westend 06/24/19 01:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: Figuring this power stuff has my head spinning

Running A/C--You need 3000W of generator power. Break it down any way you want. Running cell phones, TV's, laptop chargers, lights, water pump, and furnace--You need sufficient 12V power to accomplish it. Add up the draw of all your 12V devices and size battery bank/charging potential accordingly.
westend 06/08/19 11:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Residential Fridges

I use a 120V fridge. It is small and draws 80W, when running. As Pianotuna states, there is a duty cycle. Mine is 1:4. I have solar and many batteries but two 6V and a small charging source would provide a day of two for fridge power (depending on door interval openings). On the road, your truck powering through a 1000W inverter, will handle the load.
westend 06/08/19 11:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar Panel Mounting Advice Needed

I used a similar mantra as Techwriter when attaching 235 W panel but I used aluminum "U" channel because I have a tilting mount, I determined truss interval (I have wood) by measuring back from a vent opening 16" OC. I drilled the aluminum and through the metal roof into the roof truss. I then fastened through a piece of Eternabond tape, (3) #12 metal screws through each "U" channel and into the (3) trusses. The Eternabond tape seals the screw as it is driven and the #12 size insures against any movement. Good luck with your install.
westend 06/08/19 10:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Attaching screws to aluminum floor joists

Put some never-seize on the screws. It will act as a minimal barrier for electrolytic corrosion. Yes, you can attach wood to aluminum. You could even attach aluminum to aluminum if there is a source that is close to you and you can work with aluminum.
westend 06/08/19 10:33pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Ford V-10 plug problems

Will a V10 computer put it in "safe driving" mode if it encounters a continuous misfire in one cylinder? My 5.4 V8 went into "safe driving" when it overheated from an unobserved coolant leak. Max speed of 30MPH tipped me off that I had a problem, lol. Good luck on your transport issue and the plug replacement. Ford really blew it with their plug design of these earlier modular engines.
westend 06/08/19 10:28pm General RVing Issues
RE: Battery maintenance

FLA 6V batteries will lose electrolyte during charging. I would suggest to start with a three month interval and observe levels within the cells. Usage and temperature dictates electrolyte loss so there is no standard interval. My 6V's tend to use up more electrolyte as they are charging off a solar panel each day. I check them about every three months for the correct level.
westend 06/08/19 10:19pm General RVing Issues
RE: 6 volt battery question

you will probably want to consider upgrading your battery charger. Common WFCO chargers will not properly charge the 6V batteries I installed thisGreat suggestion. 6V batteries like high charge voltage, they thrive on it. If you use a charger incapable of 14V, your 6V's will start to lose capacity.
westend 06/08/19 10:11pm Travel Trailers
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 6  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS