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 > Your search for posts made by 'whizbang' found 43 matches.

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RE: Heat ducting

The other thing is the flexible duct is probably too long. We had the same low air flow problem with our Class C. The duct on the longer runs were cut about 18 inches too long. So, the factory folks just left a lazy "U" shape in the middle of the duct. I cut out the extra length and straightened the duct and the air flow increased.
whizbang 12/16/18 07:28am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best quality, design, finish & warranty support in Pop Up?

Yes, a F150 drives more like a car.... at least in the normal payload packages. Once you upgrade to the heaviest payload package you will stiffen the rear end and it will drive like a truck. Honestly, skip the 150. Skip the 250. Get a F350. When hauling a camper, you can never have too much truck.
whizbang 12/16/18 07:22am Truck Campers
RE: 24’ - 27’ floorplans.

The 25 on a 450 chassis is the clear choice.
whizbang 12/16/18 07:01am Class C Motorhomes
RE: What would you do?

OP --- As soon as you started your story, I knew where you where going. I went there myself and have seen it 100 times on this forum. Your options are 1) smaller camper or 2) larger truck. Good luck.
whizbang 11/18/18 09:30pm Truck Campers
RE: Buying used out of state?

Dupe deleted...
whizbang 11/18/18 09:19pm Truck Campers
RE: Buying used out of state?

I have shopped out of state and had perfectly mixed results. Some folks are honest, others, not so much. Just plan on blowing some air fare or gas as part of the cost of finding the right rig.
whizbang 11/18/18 09:12pm Truck Campers
RE: Arctic Fox 990 on SRW in the Snow?

Sliding-into-home, You are going to be over weight. Period. Your first step is to weight your truck with a full tank and you, but with the tail gate removed (my guess 7500#). Get the weights separately for both the front and rear axel. The loaded 990 will be at least 4500 pounds. I agree with the other poster who said you will be 500 pounds over weight. I think it will be a bit more than that. Possibly 1000 pounds. Other folks on this forum are more informed on current camper specs. Just start a new post that includes for truck weights and go from there. (FYI --- We had a F350 CC LB 4x4 with the 6.8 gasser that is lighter than your diesel. We had a 1996 Alpenlite that is lighter than a 990. We weighed 11,400 with my wife and I and two small dogs).
whizbang 11/18/18 09:07pm Truck Campers
RE: Warranty Work Frustration After Frustration -

They caulked the window??????????? This is not a repair. This is a bandaid. And possibly the wrong thing to do. The first thing to do is identify the leak. If, as the other poster suggested, the weep holes are plugged, the water will leak through the window. No amount of sealing or caulking will remedy the problem. If the window frame seal is bad, the window should be removed and re-installed with butyl tape around the entire opening. Optional caulking is a backup plan. The main seal is the butyl tape.
whizbang 11/18/18 08:55pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Any thoughts on how much it'd cost to restore this rig?

mtnbud, Dude. You have me seriously concerned for your welfare. Cold weather winter camping is seriously do-do. The hazards are too many to list. Personally, I have slide off icy trails/roads twice. You can also find yourself miles off the beaten path and have the road get snowed in. And that is with a 100% reliable vehicle. Because of it's age, the vehicle you are considering is suspect, even after you "fix" everything. What is your plan if you are 20 miles deep in the woods on a FS road and a 19 degree morning when it starts snowing and your engine, transmission, transfer case, locking hubs, furnace or whatever ***** out on you? Wait for a hiker to find you next May? This is nuts. Forget about it.
whizbang 11/10/18 01:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thoughts on manufacturers

On your list, Personally, I would avoid the Thor, Sunseeker (Forest River), and Tioga (Fleetwood). Of course, these brands are affordably priced and constitute a large portion of the market. A lot of folks love them. The Winnie and Jayco are the way to go. We bought a 15 year old Winnie over newer rigs that were available in the brands you listed.
whizbang 11/10/18 01:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Truck tilting?

Ford has the drivers weight and the fuel on the same side. I'm in denial... I just don't look.
whizbang 10/15/18 02:02pm Truck Campers
RE: 24. Or. 30

We were camper people too. Get the 24 for sure. Outside, about the same as a big truck/truck camper. Inside, much more space, comfort and storage. The longer C's are boat anchors. Parking for day trips can be difficult. If you end up with a toad, you are really long. The 24 is a lot more maneuverable and easier to park. Here's a photo of our 24-1/2 Minnie on the square in Downtown Arcata. Try that in a 29 footer. http://raincityhome.com/Winnie_in_Arcata.jpg
whizbang 10/13/18 05:34pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Bike rack on front receiver

I loved mine front bike rack... Until the time we drove highway speeds for 3 hours in a heavy rain. Water forced it's way into all four wheel bearing and both bottom brackets and steering tubes. It took me the better part of a day to dis-assemble and re-grease bearings. My new motto is: Just say NO to front bike racks.
whizbang 10/12/18 02:33pm Truck Campers
RE: Replacing entry door window frosted glass with clear

I have done this twice. The first time I had a local glass shop do it. The second time, I did it myself. It was just enough of a PITA that I would recommend having a glass shop do it. And yes, the view out is awesome. If you need privacy, get curtains or blinds.
whizbang 10/12/18 02:26pm Truck Campers
RE: Found my C!

Good looking rig. Congrats!
whizbang 10/12/18 02:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class A or Class C?

First off, do lots of research and lots of looking. As first timers, I would not recommend buying anything until you have walked thru at least two dozen RV's and driven at least 6 of them. Without lots of detail, let's cut to the chase: 1) What's your budget? 2) How handy are you guys with mechanics (engines, suspensions, generators, etc) and home repairs (plumbing, electrical, mechanical)? MOST RV's are entry level garbage designed for family weekend trips. If you as a couple plan to spend at lot of time in a rig, 80% of the stuff out there is wrong for you. And you have no clue. Please, do your homework.
whizbang 10/12/18 02:09pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sub-freezing Weather UPDATE --- We froze the pipes!

Great suggestions. After I posted, I reconsidered whether it makes sense to heat wrap the pipes rather than insulate. I thought of putting the vents ron suggested in several locations in hopes that the room air would be enough. I think I will Y the duct and add a vent or two for flow thru. I have some serious engineering and tinkering ahead of me this winter. Thanks everybody!
whizbang 10/12/18 01:59pm Class C Motorhomes
Sub-freezing Weather UPDATE --- We froze the pipes!

Per everybody's suggestions, we started the empty holding tanks with a couple gallons of anti-freeze, then waited until they were real full before dumping. It worked great! The problem was the bathroom pipes. The walls, floors, and cabinets with the bathroom pipes are in the back rear of the RV. They are completely sealed and unheated. There is a heat duct in the bathroom, but zero heat in the plumbing enclosure. We dodged around western Montana and managed to camp no colder than 30 degrees F. We also had the good sense to unplug the electric space heater and run the furnace so the duct put out heat. No help. The toilet line froze. The bathroom sink had almost froze thru when I turned it on and cleared it with warm water. I suspect the shower froze (but when we got around to showering, it was warm enough that water ran. However, the shower P-trap froze and it wasn't until my wife shower filled the pan with warm water that the p trap thawed and flowed. Our leak appears to be the screw on hose connection for fresh water. It was on its last legs and I have a replacement part on hand at home. I think the cold weather pushed the spring loaded seal to its end of life. I am still going to install holding tank heaters and blankets. I am also going to install a new supply connection and shower faucet, and, when I do so, wrap the lines with pipe insulation as much possible. Additionally, I am going to "Y" one of the rear furnace ducts and route it into the plumbing enclosure to warm the pipes. My cold weather plumbing problem wasn't where I expected it to be. Go figure.
whizbang 10/11/18 05:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sub-freezing weather and Exposed Tanks.

Kknowlton, Our fresh water tank and pump are inside the RV under the rear bed. Two heat ducts pass thru the compartment. I suspect the fresh water would be okay down to 20 degrees for sure, perhaps much less, depending on how much we ran the furnace rather than an electric space heater.
whizbang 10/06/18 05:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sub-freezing weather and Exposed Tanks.

Ron, Yes. I am going to install heat pads on the waste tanks and valve pipes. Its not especially difficult. It just takes time. I debated installing insulation around the tanks. I never imagined there might be off the shelf parts. I will dfinately check it out.
whizbang 10/06/18 05:37pm Class C Motorhomes
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