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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 68 matches.

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RE: Best ride for the buck

We were in a somewhat similar boat as you, just over a year ago. Had a 36' Georgetown Class A built on a 2012 F53 V10 chassis. It had served us well over the years, but we were ready to down-size a little, and wanted something that rode better, and (mostly) wanted a better quality coach. We were tired of constantly finding and fixing shoddy construction issues on the Georgetown, and wanted something with better road manners. And, we wanted nothing to do with diesel, for various reasons (mostly the obscene cost). One look and test drive of a Newmar built on the newer F53 chassis, and we were pretty well sold (see signature). Ford made significant improvements on their F53 chassis in 2020, giving it the newer big block 7.3 V8 engine, stiffer roll bars, better springs, etc. End result is a coach that handles and drives waaaay better than our old Georgetown did. And, as I'm sure you know, Newmar's quality on all their units is amazing, and very hard to beat without spending a lot more $$$. There is no denying, that a DP chassis will ride better. However, that better ride comes at a very high cost. And, Ford really closed the gap on the DPs with the chassis improvements they made in 2020 on their F53 chassis. You should definitely find one built on the newer F53 chassis and take it for a test drive. It just might restore your faith somewhat, in gas Motorhomes.
willald 09/23/22 09:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: NC I95 towable crash near Kenly

Not much difference running around in a MotorHome while flying down the Highway. Ummm....Yes, there is a huge difference. Look at the chassis a Motorhome is built on, and compare it to the chassis RV trailers are built on. Notice also how much higher up the occupants of a Motorhome sit, vs a trailer. Notice also how much heavier a Motorhome is than a typical RV trailer. I won't argue that overall, you are a little safer in a pickup truck towing an RV trailer than in a Motorhome. However, to suggest that riding in an RV trailer with its flimsy, low to the ground chassis is not much different than riding in a Motorhome built on a heavy duty diesel pusher chassis or Ford F53 heavy duty truck chassis.....Wellll, is just plain wrong, to put it nicely. Roflmao. That’s the funniest thing I’ve heard today. And it’s been a bad day, so thanks for the laugh! FYI, I wadded up a class A body and interior and packed it into a 20cy rolloff. Whole thing from the frame and drivetrain up, with a little cat 304 mini exc in about 4 hours. And occupant restraint is abysmal compared to passenger vehicles in most class As and Cs as well. I hope you were being sarcastic and not serious… ...And I hope you realize you are making a serious 'straw man' argument here, by suggesting I said something that I did not, and proceeding to refute it. Please read what I said again. I said very clearly, that you are indeed safer in a pickup truck than a Motorhome. No doubt a passenger car would be even safer in many ways. No argument there whatsoever. The only thing I was taking issue with was the assertion that traveling in a class A was the same as traveling inside an RV trailer. That is all. Yes, I'm sure you could wad up a totalled Class A body and interior pretty quickly and easily into a 20cy rolloff. However, keeping with the comparison we should here: I bet you could also wad up a totalled RV trailer into something even smaller, and even quicker.
willald 09/15/22 08:57am General RVing Issues
RE: NC I95 towable crash near Kenly

Not much difference running around in a MotorHome while flying down the Highway. Ummm....Yes, there is a huge difference. Look at the chassis a Motorhome is built on, and compare it to the chassis RV trailers are built on. Notice also how much higher up the occupants of a Motorhome sit, vs a trailer. Notice also how much heavier a Motorhome is than a typical RV trailer. I won't argue that overall, you are a little safer in a pickup truck towing an RV trailer than in a Motorhome. However, to suggest that riding in an RV trailer with its flimsy, low to the ground chassis is not much different than riding in a Motorhome built on a heavy duty diesel pusher chassis or Ford F53 heavy duty truck chassis.....Wellll, is just plain wrong, to put it nicely.
willald 09/14/22 11:27am General RVing Issues
RE: oil change

Here's one more vote for, find an auto parts store with a large parking lot, and do it there. You can buy the oil and filter there, and dispose of the old oil right there when you're done, making it pretty convenient. Just make sure you bring plenty of rags or whatever for cleaning up any accidental spills you have. That, or just do it there at the campground, quietly and discreetly, and don't make a mess. Odds are as long as you don't make a mess (or clean up real good what mess you do make), and be somewhat discreet about it, nobody won't say nothing. With RVs, doing the oil change yourself is a no-brainer since it can save you a lot of $$. Most shops that are willing to work on RVs and do this for you will charge you an obscene amount of $$. I probably save a good $100 or more every oil change by doing it myself.
willald 08/25/22 07:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Any issues having slides on both sides?

...Just like anything else, IF you wanna find an issue with something, you probably will.... If you wanna adapt to something, you probably will . . ...And that right there sums up probably 90% of the discussions/debates that come up on here. :)
willald 08/22/22 01:18pm General RVing Issues
RE: Auxiliary brake system

No specific experience with that one, but I am generally not a fan of 'brake in a box' systems, that have to be installed, set up, attached to brake pdeal, etc. and then all taken out each time you tow. Too many ways for things to go wrong, and too much temptation for short trips to just not put it in. I much prefer a system that you install once, and its there ready to go any time you tow. Also not a fan of electronic auxiliary brake systems. Just one more thing to go wrong, and in the case of auxiliary brake systems, if it drag or locks up the brakes, tons of damage can be done to your towed vehicle before you'd even know something was wrong. For those reasons, I much, much prefer the simple Readybrake system, and won't use anything else. Have been using it for 9 years on 4 different towed vehicles, and it has always worked great.
willald 08/19/22 08:28am Dinghy Towing
RE: Any issues having slides on both sides?

Last two rigs I've owned have had slide outs on both sides. Never has been a problem in terms of fitting in campsites, although you do have to keep in mind where your slides are when backing (or pulling) in, and where various things are on your site (like trees) that could get in the way. Only concern I'd have with opposing slides would be 2 things: 1. Try and find out how tight it is inside the trailer when all slide on both sides are in. Can you still walk through it? Would that be a problem for you if could not? I guess with a towed RV that may not be an issue as much as it would be with a motorized, but is still something to consider. 2. For slideouts on the curb side (and this is a big one for me), how much will the slideouts cut in on your 'camping' space under the awning? For me personally, I don't want any RV where the slideout on the curb side cuts into your space under the awning. We tend to spend a lot of time outside when camping, and I like having as much shaded under awning space as I can get. I don't want a slideout cutting into that space, but thats just me.
willald 08/17/22 02:19pm General RVing Issues
RE: Rear Fiberglass Cap Damage

TechWriter, While I can't offer any better advice than you've already got on repairing this, I'd like to compliment you on how well you documented on your other page how this happened, all the details, etc. And, how you documented how your tow bar is set up correctly, instantly silencing all the folks that tried to suggest this happened due to a faulty setup. I can see exactly how, why this happened, though, and see it was a case of several factors all conspiring together at the same time and place. It was the one time your toad braking system wasn't functional, and you were on a trip to address that very issue. And, on that trip, you came across those road trenches. And, right when you were hitting them, you were on the brakes hard. You were probably braking heavily right when rear axles of the motorhome went over one of those trenches you talked about, so back end dropped, briefly making the jeep's hitch point higher than the Motorhome while braking heavy. Heavy braking with no braking on the Jeep, right at the split second that Jeep's hitch point was higher up than Motorhome because of the trench rear axles were hitting, resulted in the Jeep 'jumping' over the tow bar and into your Motorhome. Was a case of a half dozen things all going wrong at the same time, same place, resulting in this. Could've happened to any one of us that flat tows a vehicle, regardless how well we think we have our rigs set up. Anyway, sounds like you have a good plan on how to fix this. Good luck with it, and thanks for posting back, and giving us more insight on just what happened. Definitely a few things I think we can all learn from this. :)
willald 08/08/22 09:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Waste water totes for fresh water

Here's one more vote for the water bladder, instead of a tote. Tote would definitely work, but would be more expensive, and be much more of a pain to store and move around when empty than the bladder would. Not to mention the funny looks you'd get from your neighbors when they see you emptying water into your fresh tank from a tote that is typically used for waste water. I've thought several times of getting one of those water bladders as a way to refill the fresh water tank when we might need to. Might just do it one of these days. Would you really need a pump to transfer the water over? As long as the water bladder is sitting up higher than your fresh water tank, I'm thinking you might could gravity feed the water into the RV fresh water tank. If your RV is one that has a switch you can throw that will transfer water into the fresh water tank, and you have a winterizing kit on it, then you could just hook up the bladder (or tote) to where you would normally suck in antifreeze when winterizing, and use the RV pump to bring the water ito the fresh water tankn. Thats probably how I'd do it, if gravity feed didn't work.
willald 08/05/22 07:48am General RVing Issues
RE: Bronco

I have looked at the Broncos, too, and like them a lot. Used to own one of the old Broncos back in the day, and had a lot of fun with it. However, for various reasons, I like our current Jeep Wrangler much better, especially when it comes to flat towing. As already indicated, only the bigger, heavier Broncos are flat towable, the small Bronco sport is not. Heavier means, pushing closer to the 5k hitch limit of the Motorhome, and closer to the 26k GCWR limit of the motorhome. Jeep is a good bit lighter than a Bronco, making it better for flat towing. Easier for the Motorhome to tow it. Also, as already indicated, the Bronco transmission, transfer case is almost all electronically controlled, very complicated. And, has not been on the market long, hard to know how reliable it will be long term. Jeeps OTOH, have been flat towable and people been flat towing them for a very, very, very looooong time, with no real issues. I prefer Jeep's proven, simple shift lever operated transfer case over the high tech, untested electronically controlled unit the Bronco has. And, to sum it all up...A Jeep....is a Jeep, and there's nothing else quite like it. Not much else to say, Jeep owners know what I mean. :) They've been around forever, and are just cool, have their own character, and are a lot of fun to own and drive. The Broncos are cool, too, and they do cost less, but they just....aren't a Jeep. My vote....Keep the Jeep, at least until the Broncos have been around a few more years and have had some time to prove themselves.
willald 07/28/22 02:17pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Jump Statt Battery Pack

I strongly recommend option #1 - Use a charge line from Motorhome to your towed vehicle. Will be sooo much cheaper and easier in the long run. No extra battery to have to purchase, wire in, keep charged when not in use, etc. Let the Motorhome's 12V system keep your car's battery charged so it can run the brake system, and don't worry about it. I did this with the last two vehicles I towed, and it worked great all the years I towed that way. Just plug in the red 6-way cable and forget about it. Nothing fancy is needed, either, just have to make sure you put a fuse on the charge wire right before it goes to your battery. Current towed vehicle (Jeep Wrangler) does not need this, so did not wire in a charge line when we set it up to tow. The last two did, though, and if the situation ever changed and I needed to keep the battery charged, would be very easy to run the wire to do such.
willald 07/28/22 02:00pm Dinghy Towing
RE: 2014 Ford V-10 Dropped plastic cap down oil fill tube

The filler tube on V10s in Motorhomes, I believe in most cases is pretty long and has a turn or two in it. is it possible, the cap is still stuck in the filler tube, and didn't make it down to the engine? Ify ou can confirm somehow using the methods already suggested that the cap is in the filler tube, and you can't pull it out with a grabber tool of some kind....Then I'd just pull the filler tube off, then you should be able to push the cap out. If its not in the filler tube and is already down in the cylinder.....Then like already said, you need to go ahead and pop the cylinder cover off and try to get it out before it does serious damage. Oh, and like already said.....Running the engine now, before you get that cap out, would be a very, very BAD idea!
willald 07/11/22 02:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where have all the members gone on this forum?

I still on, been here since 2002, over 20 years. :) During that time, have owned 4 different RVs, and learned soooo much from this forum and all the life experiences I've gone through. Have seen and been through a lot during that time, too - been divorced once, widowed once, now, third times the charm, happily married to the right one should've married all along. Have moved 4 times during all of that chaos. Through all of it, though, have always owned an RV of some kind - first two were trailers, last two (including present) are Class A motorhomes. Have always enjoyed camping/RVing no matter how crazy rest of life got. There were many times that owning an RV proved very useful (a lifesaver!) in getting through some of the tough times. Yes, a lot of members have disappeared, for various reasons. I think that just goes with the territory, with online forums like this.
willald 06/21/22 02:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: House AC went out can I hook up to 20 amp gfci

Yes, you should be able to. But, as already said, don't run anything else when running the A/C, and be very careful about what extension cord you use, if any. If regular RV cord won't reach the 20 amp outlet without an extension, instead of using a typical household extension cord, I'd recommend getting a 30 amp RV extension cord, and using that. That way, you can be pretty sure that voltage drop over the cord won't be a problem, and you'll also have an extra RV extension cord you can carry with you in case you need it at a campsite later on.
willald 06/14/22 01:01pm General RVing Issues
RE: What's up with CGs?

I agree with most above posters, they are just " covering their ARSE " BUT..... There are a ton of newbie campers since COVID hit and they couldn't wine and dine in their fancy hotel.. They HAVE NO CLUE that there is camping etiquette... I think this sums up what the main reason is that campgrounds are getting more 'aggressive' in communicating their rules. They are experiencing more and more folks that don't understand common camping etiquette, or just don't care or think the rules apply to them. Way too many folks are out there with RVs now due to COVID, fresh out of their 5 star hotels they are used to. Hopefully once COVID is gone, most of those people will dump their RVs (making a great used market for the rest of us), and go back to their 5 star hotels. Then maybe campgrounds won't have to be like this.
willald 06/01/22 09:17am General RVing Issues
RE: Bad sway from Toad

I won't argue that an F150 pickup is probably a bit too much weight for this Motorhome to handle. However, I'm wondering if some of the setup here is the bigger issue: ...he needed to install Rough Country coilovers in the front of the F-150 for a 2" lift to get the baseplate and associated stuff to fit OK... THIS, sounds like it may be more of the issue. Lifting a truck 2" just to set it up to flat tow? That seems strange, and not something I've ever heard of anyone doing. Could he use a drop bar with his tow bar to bring the tow bar down to the right height, instead of lifting entire truck up? I'd think that would make more sense, and would make for a much more stable towing setup. Sounds to me like he wanted an excuse to lift his truck up, haha. Which I can definitely understand, nothing wrong with that (we may one day put a lift kit on our Jeep, too). However, between the lift and the weight/size of the F150...It probably just ain't the best choice for a towed vehicle with that Motorhome, and getting something like the CRV like he is talking about doing is probably the best choice.
willald 05/31/22 09:02am Dinghy Towing
RE: Self Install vs. dealer/technician install

The page 316 of the owner's manual for the 2022 Escape says ONLY the hybrid can be towed 4-down and it's very easy to do: simply go into the onboard menu and select "Neutral Tow". No other equipment like lube pump or driveshaft disconnect required. Interesting that hybrid has this feature but the gas-only AWD and FWD versions say no towing ever unless on a full trailer. The hybrid must some sort of transfer case that combines gas and electric power that you can select into a neutral position like on 4WD trucks. We flat towed a 2013 Ford Fusion hybrid for several years, was one of the easiest cars to flat tow and was designed very well for it. I miss that car, would buy another one if Ford hadn't quit making them, haha. For the Fusion and Cmax hybrids, Ford used a CVT transmission that for whatever reason worked very well for flat towing. Just throw it in neutral and go, basically. Really cool thing as well was, power braking assist stayed on all the time with the Fusion hybrid (even when ignition off and flat towing). Sooo, auxiliary braking system I use (ReadyBrake) worked really well with it. Not sure if the Escape hybrid uses a similar hybrid drivetrain or not, but glad to hear there are still a couple good options out there for flat towing other than the good ol' trusty Jeep Wrangler.
willald 05/31/22 08:39am Dinghy Towing
RE: Travel Trailer Towing Recommendations

I gotta say...didn't read all 9 pages! However, seems pretty simple to me! No one has just one vehicle anymore. Let the Op get their SUV, load kiddos till full. Let Granny drive this one, hook Gramps old truck to camper, load remaining kids, and get on the road! When passenger list is light, use whatever vehicle works best. Jerry True, most folks have multiple vehicles. However, I'm betting the OP, like many, does not want to have to drive two separate vehicles when going camping. Takes a lot of the fun out, when can't all ride together. Then again.....If one was going to be taking 10 grand children on long road trips when going camping....Maybe separate vehicles could be a very, very good thing. :)
willald 05/24/22 08:17am Tow Vehicles
RE: Travel Trailer Towing Recommendations

... The strange behavior is making a recommendation that doesn't accommodate the OPs needs. That's what I am saying too! See, we agree!.... I'm not sure you are, Grit dog. You illustrated with your long, elaborate post that the SUV is overall a better vehicle than a van, when you look at everything. And, if you ignore the 10 people requirement the OP has, I don't think anybody would disagree with your points there. However, as already said, no SUV can (safely) carry 10 people. Sooo, it really doesn't matter how many more 'points' the SUV has over the van, because it will not meet the OP's needs. The van will, albeit at a cost in many other areas you mentioned. This has been a challenge for a very long time, and hasn't got any better over the years. How does one safely bring a large family (too large for a pickup) and tow an RV trailer? Back when I was in that boat years ago, I had one of the few 3/4 ton SUVs (Ford Excursion) to do the job. Loved that truck, it was great. It worked great for what we needed at the time. Unfortunately, they are no longer being built. Neither are the other options that used to handle this well (3/4 ton Suburban, Ford E350 passenger vans). I guess now, the 1 ton GM van is the only realistic (new) option. If I was in this position, needing to bring that many people and tow an RV trailer....I think I'd be looking for a used, older E350 Ford Van with a V10, and would just plan on spending the $$ to fix up whatever needed fixing up with it.
willald 05/24/22 07:06am Tow Vehicles
RE: Almost ready to full-time.

I'd recommend before that 3,000 mile shakedown, you take the MH and your truck to a big empty parking lot nearby, hitch it up, and turn a few laps around the parking lot. Hit brakes a few times, watch it as you make turns, etc. Make any adjustments needed, then. Once all looks and feels good, drive it on home to test it on the road. This way, you'll have a chance in a more controlled, relaxed setting (parking lot and roads close to home), to iron out any issues with the towing setup. If there is some adjustments, corrections, etc. needed, the time to make them is in a more relaxed setting *BEFORE* you leave on a long trip. This way, when you do leave for that 3,000 mile shakedown trip, you'll already have a lot of confidence that all is working as it should. We did this when we set up our Jeep to flat tow recently. Very glad we did, too, as there were some things that needed initially tweaking with the brake setup.
willald 05/19/22 08:12am Dinghy Towing
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