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RE: Almost lost a mud flap...

Cherry red, do 2 holes, and heat it again..... ...You get the threaded rod 'cherry red' hot?! Yikes! How you get it that hot? Sounds like a good way to burn yourself really, really bad! I'll sacrifice 3 or 4 drill bits before I risk getting burnt that bad. I'm going to guess with the kind of work you did for years with heavy trucks, you were used to working with stuff that hot all the time and know how to do it without burning yourself. I'd almost certainly get burnt/branded if I tried something like that. Still, thanks for all your insight. Definitely learned a few things from this (like to avoid backing up over a curb!)
willald 10/22/19 08:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Almost lost a mud flap...

Warning! Drilling is not hard, but it will heat a bit to the point it can not be sharpened. I ground a dull point on a piece of half inch all-thread about a foot long, put a piece of PCV pipe between nuts on the other end. Lay the flap on 2Xs with a gap where you want the hole. Heat the point, and shove it thru the flap, nice round hole for the 3/8 bolt. What? Synthetic rubber hard enough to heat and ruin a drill bit? Really? Yes, the good flaps are about half inch thick. After the cut, the rubber has more friction on the bit than steel. A half inch bit will leave a hole that fits tight on a 3/8 bolt. You can use or ignore what I say, cost me the same. But I have mounted a lot of mudflaps in about 35 years of working trucks. Wow, never would've thought that rubber from mud flaps could heat a drill bit up like this! Thanks for the heads up, JRScooby. Your solution there seems a bit extreme, seems like you'd have to get that piece of all-thread awfully hot to be able to shove it through and cut the hole in the rubber! Not sure I'm going to try that. I think instead, I'll just find an old drill bit I'm not too worried about losing, and use that. I have tons of old drill bits laying around. Will
willald 10/21/19 02:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Almost lost a mud flap...

FYI. Mud flaps are not to keep your toad clean. Mud flaps are there for the protection of other vehicles following you. Your rear tires, like those on trucks, pick up rocks and debris from the road and hurl them skyward looking for the windshield of some poor unsuspecting fool using the highway with you. The mud flap normally will direct that downward back toward the pavement.....Dennis ...With several feet of overhang behind the rear axles, and a towed vehicle behind that....I'm having a hard time understanding how debris/rocks thrown upward by the rear tires could hit anything but the underside of the Motorhome or your own towed vehicle. Sooo, not quite following you on how mud flaps would be for protection of vehicles other than your own. If we were talking about a dually pickup or other vehicle with very little rear overhang and not towing anything, I'd agree. That's not really the case, though. Be that as it may, I definitely will be fixing the mud flap before the Motorhome rolls again. We don't have any trips planned for a while, anyway. Will
willald 10/16/19 12:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Almost lost a mud flap...

Not rocket surgery. On my trucks, I would punch 4 new holes across the bottom, and 4 a couple inches below the original, so I could just shorten them. Any truck stop should have replacements, with just a little cutting. BTW, most likely you backed up a curb or steep slope, and onto the flap. Yeah, that's what I'm thinking about doing, just drilling a few more holes on existing flap and using it. Not sure replacing is necessary here. Good point about backing up a curb or steep slope. Now that you mention that, think I know just how this happened. Will have to be a bit more careful about that. Will
willald 10/15/19 12:32pm Class A Motorhomes
Almost lost a mud flap...

....on the road, headed out for a long weekend camping trip last weekend. We stop at a rest stop about half way, notice when doing my 'walk around', that one mud flap is barely hanging, one corner dragging the ground, only one of the three bolts still holding it on. We are talking about the mud flaps directly behind the rear wheels. Mud flap had broke off from two of the 3 bolts holding it to the frame, was only hanging by one. I went ahead and removed it completely and threw it in the trunk (towed vehicle), we did without a mud flap on one side for rest of the trip there and all the way home. Didn't seem to affect much (towed vehicle didn't get any dirtier than usual), but obviously don't want to leave it minus one mud flap. Now, the questions: Where to get a replacement mud flap? Most places I've looked only sell the massive mud flaps that go the entire length and attach to receiver. Don't want one of them, just want to replace the one that was behind the (passenger side) rear wheel. Other option is to just rotate the existing, old mud flap 180 degrees, drill 3 new holes in it and mount the mud flap that way. Wouldn't look as pretty, but nobody sees the mud flaps down there behind the wheel, anyway. Thoughts? As always, all suggestions, opinions, etc. are welcome and appreciated. :)
willald 10/15/19 11:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: MH accident in gas station!

When I see things like this, I prefer not to run down the driver for making such a mistake (especially when I know nothing of the specific circumstances around how it happened). I think he has enough 'consequences' to deal with now without us making it worse by running him (or her) down in a public forum. I just feel sorry for the driver, family. Their beautiful rig, which looks pretty new, is now badly damaged. It may well never be the same again or be worth fixing. Their trip ruined. Not to mention how embarrassing and stressful this was for them. Before we run down the driver for making this mistake (however it happened)....Think of how easily any one of us could have made a similar mistake like this, and how you'd feel about people talking about you on a public forum like some on here are. Not a one of us are perfect, even though we seem to sometimes think we are. Just be thankful you've been fortunate enough to not make such a mistake and have your rig tore up like this!
willald 10/15/19 09:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Upholstery needs to be redone

The sofa, recliner, and both captain's chairs in our Motorhome started peeling and looked awful after just a few years. Manufacturer used cheap material that didn't last worth a flip. I opted to have all of them re-upholstered by an Auto upholstery shop. This was a fraction of what it would've cost to replace them, and we ended up with what seems like new furniture. They did an awesome job. I think the trick is in finding a good upholstery shop that knows what they are doing. That was several years ago, and the new upholstery, material is holding up very well. Still looks and feels great.
willald 10/07/19 09:22am General RVing Issues
RE: Where is everyone getting their wiper blades?

Don't recall the length of the blades, but first time I replaced them a year or two ago, I got the replacements at Advance Auto Parts. Last June, driving across Virginia in monsoon of rain, one wiper blade broke off and was thrown (lost). Found a Walmart a few miles down the road, picked up a replacement blade of same length that worked fine. Actually bought two of them while was there, so now keep a spare blade in case it ever 'throws' another one. You can save a TON of $$ by just buying an appropriate sized wiper replacement from an auto part store or Walmart vs. getting an exact replacement from somewhere like Camping World that will rip you off.
willald 09/30/19 08:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Valve extenders safe?

I installed the Borg dually valves several years ago when first got our Class A Motorhome 7 years ago. On the inner tires mostly, those long stems leaked and leaked, no matter what I did. Very slow leak, though, was just enough where I always seemed to have to top off the tires by a few pounds before every trip. Had tire shop remove the tire from the rim, check the valve (and seals inside) numerous times, they never could find why it was leaking. Something about those really long valve stems just isn't right, and I found they always leak gradually. One day I finally had had enough with those long dually valve stems and their slow leaking. Had the shop take them off and put on regular valve stems, with AIRLESS braided extensions. Never had a problem again, and I've been using those braided extensions for several years now. I still use the Dually valve U shaped valve stems on the outers, they work fine. However, the long ones for the inners always leaked, so I did away with them. Whatever extension you use, its very important if you use extensions, that they are airless extensions. Airless as in, extensions have no air pressure in them except when you put a gauge or air hose on it. That way, if it works loose, you aren't going to lose any air. I won't use any kind of extension that has air pressure in it all the time. Those are just asking for trouble, IMHO. Not really sure why those Borg dually long valve stems always leaked on the inners, but they did. Is unfortunate, as otherwise those dually valve stems are a great product. They work great for the outer duals.
willald 09/25/19 08:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Transmission is Toast

Glad to hear that Ford is stepping up and fixing it. Have to say, though, that this crazy procedure the Fiesta, Focus, and a few others require that involve disconnecting the battery are precisely why I avoided those vehicles. I don't want any vehicle I have to disconnect the battery on in order to tow. Not when there are so many other good towed vehicle choices out there for similar $$ that don't require that. With my Ford Taurus, all I have to do is run the engine 5 minutes at beginning of the day before towing, run tranny through Drive, Reverse, then to neutral, and its ready to tow up to 65 mph. I always remember that tranny procedure this way - Drive, Reverse, Neutral, as in 'Don't wReck Nothing' (DRN) :)
willald 09/24/19 07:42am Dinghy Towing
RE: F-53 tires

Mine is a 2012 (see signature), one year older than yours. I just replaced my tires a few months ago. I'm definitely in the camp with 'replace them after 7 years regardless'. As several have indicated, yes, you might get more than 7 years, but IMO the price for a tire failure with these rigs is just too great, and not worth the risk. Also, when you put new tires on, have them check the alignment! When I replaced my tires a few months ago, I had noticed fronts were wearing excessively on outside edges. They found the toe-in was waaaaay off, had been that way from the factory! Had them correct that, Motorhome drives muuuch better now, much more straight! All those years I drove thing thing and thought its wandering was just the way it was with these rigs, didn't realize all it needed was an alignment. Now, its much less effort to drive, not near as much steering input needed. :)
willald 07/25/19 07:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: private land camping questions, cell booster suggestions

As to whether or not the neighbors have a right to be upset: I can definitely understand their side of it. I wouldn't want my neighbors bringing a bad element into where I live. However, given how rural the area is, as long as the land owners only rent to decent, respectful campers that don't cause trouble...I don't think it will ever be a problem, and neighbors will probably calm down and be OK with it. If you can come up with an algorithm, a questionaire, or a mind trick that can sort the decent, respectful campers that don't cause trouble from the indecent, disprespectful, troublemakers you could make a fortune. Your market would be much larger than RV parks. Every hotel, motel, restaurant, apartment complex and landlord in the country would beat a path to your door for that service. Yep, you right, its a crapshoot, and you never know which ones will be the trouble makers vs which ones won't. Like you suggested, every rental business whether it be campground, hotel, motel, apartment, whatever, would face that same dilemma. I guess what I meant was if they get lucky/fortunate enough not to get any more trouble makers, the neighbors will probably calm down a bit. I do know we plan to be up there quite a bit, as it is/was exactly what we were looking for. :) Will
willald 07/19/19 12:29pm General RVing Issues
RE: private land camping questions, cell booster suggestions

Again, thanks for all the suggestions. Believe I'll be ordering the Weboost cell booster, the unit they make for RVs. That seems like the best option. Whether we camp at this remote place again or not, I can think of numerous other places we've gone (and plan to go in the future) where a booster like that will come in very handy. One more clarification about that campsite: There is actually only *one* campsite they rent, that has hookups. The other one does not have hookups, and is almost never rented. Like I said previously, there is one other site with hookups, that the landowners live on, permanently. We've decided, we will be going back there, probably quite often (as long as neighbors don't shut them down, which I don't believe will happen). Like I said before, its the best of both worlds - Out in the country, nothing but woods, trees around you and a creek, no neighbors within sight, yet still have full hookups. It doesn't get much better than that. :) As to whether or not the neighbors have a right to be upset: I can definitely understand their side of it. I wouldn't want my neighbors bringing a bad element into where I live. However, given how rural the area is, as long as the land owners only rent to decent, respectful campers that don't cause trouble...I don't think it will ever be a problem, and neighbors will probably calm down and be OK with it. There's another piece I didn't tell initially, that I will now: The property is out on a long, large oval road in the country. I went the wrong way around the oval initially - should have turned to the left, went to the right. Entire right side of that oval, was NOT meant for RVs, AT ALL! Low hanging tree branches, deep ruts in the road, banked so much at one point daughter was afraid we'd tip over....The kind of road that probably should only be taken with a 4x4. Despite my stupidity of going that way when never should have, I managed to get through without tearing anything up. That was where I ran into the upset neighbors, and I think they came out to talk to us 'cause they were just shocked to see such a large RV make it down their road when it really shouldn't have, hahaha. Other side of the oval (when you go to the left) where campsites are was/is much better - a fairly well maintained dirt road that is easily passable with an RV. If I'd gone the way was supposed to, never would have run into the neighbors that weren't happy. Soo, part of that was my stupidity, should've listened to the owners when they said to turn left at the entrance to the oval. Won't make that mistake again. :)
willald 07/19/19 08:59am General RVing Issues
RE: I hate dinettes

I wouldn't own an RV without a dinette. I *like* having a table where we can all sit together and eat, play games, etc. Yes, its more fun to do that outside at a picnic table, but anyone that's camped for a while knows that the weather has a way of making that impossible or very uncomfortable sometimes. And, that's not to mention the storage space underneath you give up if you don't have a dinette. And, the occasional extra sleeping space is nice, too. Yes, the seat cushions on some dinettes can be not quite the most comfortable thing in the world. That is why you have to check these things out, BEFORE you buy an RV. If the dinette ain't comfortable, then find another model. Not all dinette cushions are uncomfortable. If you don't like a dinette, look at units that have the free standing chair and tables. Several brands offer that as an option. I'd say the RV industry is doing just fine, by offering a choice of a dinette or free standing chairs, table. That way we all can get something we are happy with, without shoving our wants, preferences down everyone else's throats that may prefer something else. :)
willald 07/17/19 09:18am General RVing Issues
RE: private land camping questions, cell booster suggestions

OK, let me clarify a few things I should have from the get-go: We are not talking about someone 'running an RV park' on their private farm land. There are 3 campsites, one of which is occupied permanently by one of the landowners (living full time in their RV). Sooo, a total of just 2 campsites being rented, the other one already being occupied by one of the landowners. And from what I can gather, the 2 rental sites are only occupied very sporadically, they do not stay occupied all the time. Yes, they do charge a small nightly fee to stay there. Since they are providing 50 amp electricity, sewer, and water, I'd say that is only fair. They're just a really nice older, retired couple that are trying to supplement their retirement income a little. As to the comments/questions about why I am working remotely and need to do so 450 miles from home: Sorry, that is a long, somewhat personal story I'd rather not get into on a public forum. Its not really relevant to this discussion, anyway, and would just make the thread go sideways even more. Anyway, thanks for the suggestions about various cell phone booster ideas. I see that Best Buy has the Weboost units, I may go have a look at them.
willald 07/16/19 02:29pm General RVing Issues
private land camping questions, cell booster suggestions

...Sooo, due to life circumstances, we find ourselves frequently needing to travel to and stay in an area about 450 miles from home. Having the RV (Motorhome) has worked out great for these trips. Only problem is, have not found a good campground to stay at in the area we need to be. I did some searching for RV site rentals on craigs list, find a couple that owns some land out in the country very close to where we need to stay, and they've set up a couple RV sites on the land for short term (nightly or weekly) rental. Seems like really nice idea - Stay way out in the country, no neighbors hardly within sight, very peaceful in the country, creek running just down from the site that you can walk down to. And, of course, all of this with full hookups (50 amp, water, sewer). Call the number, talk to them, they seem really nice, so we book it, and plan to go there this last weekend. Sooo, we make the 8 hour trip up there, find this place via GPS. Just before getting to the site, we run into neighbors of folks renting the land, and lets just say, they were not very happy about their neighbors renting their land to RVers. They'd recently had some not-so-nice people renting the site, that had caused some trouble. Neighbors say it is illegal for them to rent their land out like that to RVers, and they were in the process of trying to legally shut them down from doing such. Despite a temptation to get the heck out of there and settle for one of the RV parks we know in the area (but really don't like)....We chose to stay. Owner of the land we were renting from met us out there, and we had a long talk. They assured us that what they are doing is perfectly legal, and the neighbors just don't like him, unhappy about past renters that caused problems, etc. Seemed like a nice couple, so we decided to try it out. Well, we had a great stay there. Everything went great. Absolutely LOVED having nothing but woods and a dirt road around us. No neighbors right on top of us like at RV parks. Nobody bothered us entire time. It was like the best of both worlds - boondocking out in the woods, yet we had full hookups like an RV park. Yeah, no cable or satellite TV, but didn't really need that, anyway. Only real issue we had was, cell coverage is very weak that far out in the country. I work remotely for a large financial services company, need strong cell connection to be able to work. Ultimately, would like to be able to park out there for a week or two at a time and be able to work from the RV. Will need a good cell connection to do that. I may be looking into a cell booster of some variety for that reason. Soo, now the questions: Has anyone ever stayed on someone's private land like this, that had RV sites set up for rent? What was your experience with such? Is this not a good idea? Is there anything illegal about renting your land to RVers like they are doing? Do the disgruntled neighbors have a chance at shutting them down? Only thing I can think of that'd make it illegal, would be if the land isn't zoned to allow RVs? As rural as this area is, I'd seriously doubt that is the case. Any advice, suggestions on a cell booster that'd allow for good data, and voice connections out in the boonies like that? As always, all (well, most) comments, suggestions, etc. are welcome and appreciated. :)
willald 07/16/19 07:56am General RVing Issues
RE: Black Water Tank Treatments

If all various odor blocks noted above work properly all the time, and nothing ever goes wrong when dumping tanks, and you never, ever make mistakes when dumping tanks and never spill even one drop of waster water on the ground ever....Then, yes, in that 'perfect' world/utopia, black tank chemicals are not needed. However, I don't live in that 'utopia' where nothing ever goes wrong, haha. The world I live in, things occasionally do go wrong. Vents get clogged, water in P traps evaporates enough to allow some odor into the RV, hoses or hose fittings wear out and may leak a drop or two before I can correct the issue. THAT, is why I use black tank chemicals (Odorlos). They minimize the smell, when (not if) something goes wrong or doesn't go exactly as planned. Your neighbors will appreciate you taking such precaution, too, when something goes less than perfect and allows some of your holding tank odors to escape (like maybe when a sewer hose has a slight leak, isn't attached securely to a fitting, etc.) I don't think its as much about assisting with break-down of solids, cause as already said, that happens at the same rate regardless of chemicals. Its more about minimizing the odors for the times when something doesn't go exactly as planned.
willald 07/05/19 02:36pm General RVing Issues
RE: Car dolly's what to look for?

I towed with a dolly for a while, before going to 4 down towing. Like most, I much prefer 4 down towing, but if I ever go back to a tow dolly (won't rule it out), it will be with the same one I had before, what is IMO the best dolly you can get (and only one I'd ever own): The ACME EZE tow dolly. You just can't beat it, IMO. Lightest dolly made, at only 330 lbs, so easier to move around by hand than almost any other dolly. The thing is so low profile, you can store it almost completely under the back of your Motorhome, so it uses very little space when parked (uses less space than even the much more expensive folding Demco Kar Kaddy ). Detachable ramps eliminate risk of ramps hitting bottom of car. Design pretty much guarantees you can take some pretty tight turns, and its almost impossible for car to touch dolly's fenders (I personally tested, verified this on mine years ago). Its light weight means you can tow a pretty heavy vehicle and still stay under the 5k (total) limit many Motorhome hitch receivers have. Oh, and comes with hydraulic activated disk brakes, and LED lighting. No, I have zero affiliation with the company that makes it. I'm just one that used to own one, and knowing what I know now and what I researched back then.....I know I made the right choice then, and would make the same choice again if I ever decide to go back to dolly towing.
willald 07/05/19 11:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Drop Hitch Receiver

NSA does recommend that their tow bar/brake system is set up as close to level as possible, and it is good to try and get it close to level. Drop bars are the way to achieve that. However, know that drop bars come with other downsides. They increase the torsion load on your hitch receiver (due to extra length), and the more of a 'drop' you use, the more ground clearance you take away back there and leave it more prone to scraping. When you back up over any kind of incline, or pull out from gas stations or whatever that has an incline....The bottom of your drop bar is usually the first thing that will scrape. Too many hard hits or scraps can weaken it, leading to risk of it failing. The less of a drop bar you can use back there, the better off you are in terms of risk of scraping. But, then, especially if using a Readybrake system, the more off level the tow bar is, the less effective your braking will be. You just have to find a 'happy middle ground', and pick a drop hitch that gets you fairly close to level without causing too much scraping. When I towed a Ford Fusion, I used a 4" drop. That thing scraped, a LOT. When I took the 4" drop bar off, the scrapes underneath it looked really bad. After the Fusion was totaled in a wreck (bout year and a half ago) and I replaced it with a Ford Taurus, fortunately the Taurus height was a little higher, so I went to just a 2" drop. Much less scrapes now.
willald 07/05/19 08:22am Dinghy Towing
RE: Well George is home!

Congrats, Dodge guy, you are following almost exact same upgrade path I did, with a little different timing - Ford Excursion and TT, to a 2012 Georgetown Class A motorhome. I just made the jump a little sooner is all. :) Mine has been awesome, have had it 7 years now (since new), and its been great. Very glad I made the switch. Has had a few minor quirks and issues here and there I've had to work through, but no more than is expected on an RV like this. I have not really had handling issues with ours, but I know a lot of people have. Just actually put new tires on ours, and ready to get back out camping with it here in a few weeks. The suggestions about tire pressures are very good, you definitely got to stay on top of the tires on these things and keep them inflated right. That will make a difference, and also help your tires last longer. As one that just had to fork out a few thousand for new tires for mine, trust me when I say, you want these tires to last and get maintained properly. :) A trac bar on the rear axle I've heard is a good improvement, too, as is a steer-safe stabilizer on the front. Both are things I've wanted to do to mine, but just have never got around to it, as I'm basically satisfied with how mine handles. If you're going to tow with it, look very closely at the hitch receiver and where it attaches to the frame on the back. I had to have some work done on mine to re-enforce things back there, as the way the factory had installed the hitch receiver was not good, and could have led to some issues if I hadn't addressed it. I have a whole thread on here where I discussed that issue and how I fixed it a year or two ago. I'm too lazy to pull up the URL, but a quick search, you should be able to find it if you want to. Anyway, good luck with it, and congrats. I think you made a good choice. :)
willald 04/08/19 12:12pm Class A Motorhomes
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