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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 33 matches.

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RE: I hate dinettes

I wouldn't own an RV without a dinette. I *like* having a table where we can all sit together and eat, play games, etc. Yes, its more fun to do that outside at a picnic table, but anyone that's camped for a while knows that the weather has a way of making that impossible or very uncomfortable sometimes. And, that's not to mention the storage space underneath you give up if you don't have a dinette. And, the occasional extra sleeping space is nice, too. Yes, the seat cushions on some dinettes can be not quite the most comfortable thing in the world. That is why you have to check these things out, BEFORE you buy an RV. If the dinette ain't comfortable, then find another model. Not all dinette cushions are uncomfortable. If you don't like a dinette, look at units that have the free standing chair and tables. Several brands offer that as an option. I'd say the RV industry is doing just fine, by offering a choice of a dinette or free standing chairs, table. That way we all can get something we are happy with, without shoving our wants, preferences down everyone else's throats that may prefer something else. :)
willald 07/17/19 09:18am General RVing Issues
RE: private land camping questions, cell booster suggestions

OK, let me clarify a few things I should have from the get-go: We are not talking about someone 'running an RV park' on their private farm land. There are 3 campsites, one of which is occupied permanently by one of the landowners (living full time in their RV). Sooo, a total of just 2 campsites being rented, the other one already being occupied by one of the landowners. And from what I can gather, the 2 rental sites are only occupied very sporadically, they do not stay occupied all the time. Yes, they do charge a small nightly fee to stay there. Since they are providing 50 amp electricity, sewer, and water, I'd say that is only fair. They're just a really nice older, retired couple that are trying to supplement their retirement income a little. As to the comments/questions about why I am working remotely and need to do so 450 miles from home: Sorry, that is a long, somewhat personal story I'd rather not get into on a public forum. Its not really relevant to this discussion, anyway, and would just make the thread go sideways even more. Anyway, thanks for the suggestions about various cell phone booster ideas. I see that Best Buy has the Weboost units, I may go have a look at them.
willald 07/16/19 02:29pm General RVing Issues
private land camping questions, cell booster suggestions

...Sooo, due to life circumstances, we find ourselves frequently needing to travel to and stay in an area about 450 miles from home. Having the RV (Motorhome) has worked out great for these trips. Only problem is, have not found a good campground to stay at in the area we need to be. I did some searching for RV site rentals on craigs list, find a couple that owns some land out in the country very close to where we need to stay, and they've set up a couple RV sites on the land for short term (nightly or weekly) rental. Seems like really nice idea - Stay way out in the country, no neighbors hardly within sight, very peaceful in the country, creek running just down from the site that you can walk down to. And, of course, all of this with full hookups (50 amp, water, sewer). Call the number, talk to them, they seem really nice, so we book it, and plan to go there this last weekend. Sooo, we make the 8 hour trip up there, find this place via GPS. Just before getting to the site, we run into neighbors of folks renting the land, and lets just say, they were not very happy about their neighbors renting their land to RVers. They'd recently had some not-so-nice people renting the site, that had caused some trouble. Neighbors say it is illegal for them to rent their land out like that to RVers, and they were in the process of trying to legally shut them down from doing such. Despite a temptation to get the heck out of there and settle for one of the RV parks we know in the area (but really don't like)....We chose to stay. Owner of the land we were renting from met us out there, and we had a long talk. They assured us that what they are doing is perfectly legal, and the neighbors just don't like him, unhappy about past renters that caused problems, etc. Seemed like a nice couple, so we decided to try it out. Well, we had a great stay there. Everything went great. Absolutely LOVED having nothing but woods and a dirt road around us. No neighbors right on top of us like at RV parks. Nobody bothered us entire time. It was like the best of both worlds - boondocking out in the woods, yet we had full hookups like an RV park. Yeah, no cable or satellite TV, but didn't really need that, anyway. Only real issue we had was, cell coverage is very weak that far out in the country. I work remotely for a large financial services company, need strong cell connection to be able to work. Ultimately, would like to be able to park out there for a week or two at a time and be able to work from the RV. Will need a good cell connection to do that. I may be looking into a cell booster of some variety for that reason. Soo, now the questions: Has anyone ever stayed on someone's private land like this, that had RV sites set up for rent? What was your experience with such? Is this not a good idea? Is there anything illegal about renting your land to RVers like they are doing? Do the disgruntled neighbors have a chance at shutting them down? Only thing I can think of that'd make it illegal, would be if the land isn't zoned to allow RVs? As rural as this area is, I'd seriously doubt that is the case. Any advice, suggestions on a cell booster that'd allow for good data, and voice connections out in the boonies like that? As always, all (well, most) comments, suggestions, etc. are welcome and appreciated. :)
willald 07/16/19 07:56am General RVing Issues
RE: Black Water Tank Treatments

If all various odor blocks noted above work properly all the time, and nothing ever goes wrong when dumping tanks, and you never, ever make mistakes when dumping tanks and never spill even one drop of waster water on the ground ever....Then, yes, in that 'perfect' world/utopia, black tank chemicals are not needed. However, I don't live in that 'utopia' where nothing ever goes wrong, haha. The world I live in, things occasionally do go wrong. Vents get clogged, water in P traps evaporates enough to allow some odor into the RV, hoses or hose fittings wear out and may leak a drop or two before I can correct the issue. THAT, is why I use black tank chemicals (Odorlos). They minimize the smell, when (not if) something goes wrong or doesn't go exactly as planned. Your neighbors will appreciate you taking such precaution, too, when something goes less than perfect and allows some of your holding tank odors to escape (like maybe when a sewer hose has a slight leak, isn't attached securely to a fitting, etc.) I don't think its as much about assisting with break-down of solids, cause as already said, that happens at the same rate regardless of chemicals. Its more about minimizing the odors for the times when something doesn't go exactly as planned.
willald 07/05/19 02:36pm General RVing Issues
RE: Car dolly's what to look for?

I towed with a dolly for a while, before going to 4 down towing. Like most, I much prefer 4 down towing, but if I ever go back to a tow dolly (won't rule it out), it will be with the same one I had before, what is IMO the best dolly you can get (and only one I'd ever own): The ACME EZE tow dolly. You just can't beat it, IMO. Lightest dolly made, at only 330 lbs, so easier to move around by hand than almost any other dolly. The thing is so low profile, you can store it almost completely under the back of your Motorhome, so it uses very little space when parked (uses less space than even the much more expensive folding Demco Kar Kaddy ). Detachable ramps eliminate risk of ramps hitting bottom of car. Design pretty much guarantees you can take some pretty tight turns, and its almost impossible for car to touch dolly's fenders (I personally tested, verified this on mine years ago). Its light weight means you can tow a pretty heavy vehicle and still stay under the 5k (total) limit many Motorhome hitch receivers have. Oh, and comes with hydraulic activated disk brakes, and LED lighting. No, I have zero affiliation with the company that makes it. I'm just one that used to own one, and knowing what I know now and what I researched back then.....I know I made the right choice then, and would make the same choice again if I ever decide to go back to dolly towing.
willald 07/05/19 11:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Drop Hitch Receiver

NSA does recommend that their tow bar/brake system is set up as close to level as possible, and it is good to try and get it close to level. Drop bars are the way to achieve that. However, know that drop bars come with other downsides. They increase the torsion load on your hitch receiver (due to extra length), and the more of a 'drop' you use, the more ground clearance you take away back there and leave it more prone to scraping. When you back up over any kind of incline, or pull out from gas stations or whatever that has an incline....The bottom of your drop bar is usually the first thing that will scrape. Too many hard hits or scraps can weaken it, leading to risk of it failing. The less of a drop bar you can use back there, the better off you are in terms of risk of scraping. But, then, especially if using a Readybrake system, the more off level the tow bar is, the less effective your braking will be. You just have to find a 'happy middle ground', and pick a drop hitch that gets you fairly close to level without causing too much scraping. When I towed a Ford Fusion, I used a 4" drop. That thing scraped, a LOT. When I took the 4" drop bar off, the scrapes underneath it looked really bad. After the Fusion was totaled in a wreck (bout year and a half ago) and I replaced it with a Ford Taurus, fortunately the Taurus height was a little higher, so I went to just a 2" drop. Much less scrapes now.
willald 07/05/19 08:22am Dinghy Towing
RE: Well George is home!

Congrats, Dodge guy, you are following almost exact same upgrade path I did, with a little different timing - Ford Excursion and TT, to a 2012 Georgetown Class A motorhome. I just made the jump a little sooner is all. :) Mine has been awesome, have had it 7 years now (since new), and its been great. Very glad I made the switch. Has had a few minor quirks and issues here and there I've had to work through, but no more than is expected on an RV like this. I have not really had handling issues with ours, but I know a lot of people have. Just actually put new tires on ours, and ready to get back out camping with it here in a few weeks. The suggestions about tire pressures are very good, you definitely got to stay on top of the tires on these things and keep them inflated right. That will make a difference, and also help your tires last longer. As one that just had to fork out a few thousand for new tires for mine, trust me when I say, you want these tires to last and get maintained properly. :) A trac bar on the rear axle I've heard is a good improvement, too, as is a steer-safe stabilizer on the front. Both are things I've wanted to do to mine, but just have never got around to it, as I'm basically satisfied with how mine handles. If you're going to tow with it, look very closely at the hitch receiver and where it attaches to the frame on the back. I had to have some work done on mine to re-enforce things back there, as the way the factory had installed the hitch receiver was not good, and could have led to some issues if I hadn't addressed it. I have a whole thread on here where I discussed that issue and how I fixed it a year or two ago. I'm too lazy to pull up the URL, but a quick search, you should be able to find it if you want to. Anyway, good luck with it, and congrats. I think you made a good choice. :)
willald 04/08/19 12:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorhome financing

"daveb1256"....Your financial plan is fine and is what most people do when buying an RV. Find best rate, 20% or more down and buy the best RV you can afford. It always amazes me how many financial wizards there are that live behind keyboards. Not ONE situation is the same. One guy says he always pays cash and drives a $1200.00 RV....wow, what a financial wizard. Another guy says he always pays cash, yet neglects to mention he's 65 years old and sold his house to buy the RV. Another says he paid cash, but waited until he was 70 years old, had paid off everything, but missed out on RVing for 20 years. My favorite....the guy that gives financial advice, but never lists what he owns. Trust me, the very wealthy are not on this website! EVERYONE's financial situation is different, from wealth, to age, to health. Buy what you can afford and feel comfortable with....no one knows your finances better than you. Very well said, and soooo true.
willald 02/15/19 03:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leaving TOAD running while pulling

I towed a Kia Sedona minivan using a lube pump for a while. Seriously toyed with the idea then, of idling it instead of using the pump, but ultimately chose not to. If the vehicle had been as old as yours, I doubt I would've spent the $$ to put a lube pump on it, I probably woulda tried idling it. I do remember reading about one person on here that did this (idling), and it worked great for him. Yes, you use up a little fuel while towing, but you can buy a LOT of fuel for what it'll cost to put in a Remco lube pump! The questions you have to ask, get answered before you do this, is: Will idling your particular engine, transmission while towing cause any issues for engine or transmission? Like already said, just 'cause one particular case or two this works OK, does not mean it will for your Town and Country van. I would try to find a transmission specialist, someone that has a lot of working knowledge with the particular transmission you have, and ask their opinion. Try to find out specifically, if engine idling with tranny in neutral will cause fluid to be pumped through the transmission. I wouldn't just assume that it is, I'd verify such, even if that means disconnecting a hose from the tranny cooler briefly to verify, while engine is running and its in neutral. I would then check with somone (maybe Chrysler dealer service tech?) that knows your engine well, too, and see if they think extensive idling for this engine would cause a problem or not? There probably are some engines for which this would not be a good idea, but I do think most modern, computer controlled engines should be OK with this, provided you keep an eye on it, which leads to next point: Assuming you still want to do this, next thing you have to do is figure out some way to monitor whats going on with the van engine while towing. If it starts to overheat, shuts off, runs low on gas, etc. you need to know about it immediately, so you can pull over before something tears up. I'm thinking some kind of wireless camera you could attach with a strap to the driver seat, aimed at the dashboard, and put the monitor for such up on the MH dash, so you can see the van's dashboard while driving, and make sure engine is running, idling OK, not overheating, etc.? Or, if you wanted to get real extravagant with it, maybe hook up an OBD monitor to the van, and run the wires from it up to the MH, so you have full OBD monitoring for the van up on the dashboard of the MH? :) As you might be able to tell, I seriously considered doing this. Ultimately decided not to and went with a lube pump, but almost wish I HAD gone the idling route, 'cause the lube pump thing was very expensive and didn't work out for me, anyway, for various reasons. Eventually, I quit towing that vehicle, and got one that is flat towable from the factory. Made things sooooo much easier then.
willald 02/12/19 07:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Chaser vs. Dinghy

JMO, but if you're going to have some of your family follow you in a separate vehicle (a 'chaser')...You just defeated the main purpose/advantage of a motorized RV (Motorhome). If you're going to do that, you might as well just get a towable RV (TT or 5th wheel) and an appropriate vehicle to tow it. Would be much less expensive, and would allow everyone to ride together.
willald 01/29/19 11:48am Dinghy Towing
RE: Recommendation for installers in NC for flat towing setup

Check out Carolina Coach & Marine in Claremont, NC. Bought an RV from them once many years ago, and since then have had work done by their service department several times. Most recently, they installed the Readybrake system on my Ford Fusion so I could tow it behind the Motorhome. They did an awesome job, and this was an install that CW refused to do and said was impossible due to how complicated the Ford Fusion (hybrid) was. Great service department, seem to know what they are doing (although they are not cheap). Tom Johnson over near the race track (now a Camping World) *USED* to be great, but I'm not sure now. I'm like you, I am very hesitant to have Camping World do any kind of service work. I know several really good, experienced service techs left there when Camping World took over.
willald 01/29/19 07:38am Dinghy Towing
RE: Where to buy Goodyear tires for Class A?

Did you use the GY website to find some commercial dealers? Goodyear Commercial Yep, and that was how I got the info on the first few places I called, that either didn't have them or wanted way too much $$ for them. Firat place that website listed for here, is the one that wanted nearly $600 a tire. Will
willald 01/27/19 09:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where to buy Goodyear tires for Class A?

I have a question about your GY's and did you notice any Rivering on the front steers, during your 7yr tenure with them? Goodyear 670's For one of your questions, I have ordered tires from Amazon with great success and they had recent manufacturing dates, but they were HERCULES, which served me well. Had a local shop mount and balance them, so not a problem there, either. No, the goodyear tires always rode great, which is a lot of why I'm putting same kind back on it.. Never had any issues with rivering. Did have issues early on with one of the rear ones leaking a little, but that wasn't the tires fault, that was an issue with the valve stem I had to correct. Thanks for the info about ordering through Amazon. Pretty sure though, I gonna go with Black's tire and auto in NC. Their price is the best I've found anywhere, and they seem like a good company to work with. I just gotta figure out when, how. Will
willald 01/27/19 09:09am Class A Motorhomes
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