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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 38 matches.

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RE: LCI leveling jacks pump motor replacement

Update: Got the new motor from Western Motor Service, and yesterday evening put it in. Leveling jacks are working again. :) A few notes/comments about the WMS motor I used: Some comments on the thread on IRV2 forum suggested that the polarity is reversed on this motor, and you have to reverse the two wires. I found that not to be the case, the polarity of the two sides was marked correctly. I believe WMS corrected that at some point. The access port on the back to run the motor manually if you need to, is not quite like the one the original motor has. There is only a paper sticker covering it, not rubber like old one. I may well look into putting a better cover on it, don't want dirt getting in there. The connection is just a slot, not an allen head like old motor. You'd have to connect a regular, flathead screwdriver attachment to your drill to manually turn the motor. May not work quite as well as the allen wrench connection old motor has. On the output side of the motor, The slot was ever so slightly too small, and coupling link would not go into it. A few minutes filing down the two sides of the coupling link solved that problem, though. Motor then bolted right up, and works great. Old motor will be going to a local motor/alternator repair shop I've already talked to that is willing to rebuild it. Once it is repaired and working, will keep it handy for a hot spare. At any rate, bottom line is the WMS motor works perfectly, and costs less than half what the original replacement motor costs that LCI, Amazon, and a few others sell. Wanted to post this, so anyone else that has to replace this motor will know the WMS motor works fine, and will save you several hundred $$. Now that we got the jacks working, time to get back out camping. :)
willald 09/22/20 08:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee Step Motor Replacement

I’ve replaced the step motor twice now on our 2012 Georgetown. It has LCI steps. Replaced it first time a few years ago. Replaced it second time just last week. I’m finding, that electric motors outside, exposed to the elements on these RVs, don’t have a very long life. Step motor replaced twice, awning motor been replaced once, and now motor that runs leveling jacks has quit (just got replacement motor for it the other day, haven’t put it in yet). Bottom line, if you gonna own a Motorhome, you better be able to make at least some repairs like this yourself, or have very deep pockets.
willald 09/16/20 09:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: LCI leveling jacks pump motor replacement

You should be able to take the motor to any Alternator/Starter shop in your area that rebuilds motors. As a RV Service shop we do this all the time. They rebuild all types of RV related Pump motors for us. Doug I was actually planning on doing exactly this with the old motor once I get it off, so will have a hot spare ready to go if need be. Thought of just having current one rebuilt, but ultimately decided due to time constraints of an upcoming trip, to go ahead and order a replacement motor this time.
willald 09/09/20 11:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: cut and paste no longer works when posting?

Thanks, CA Traveler. Apparently it is something specific with the laptop or browser on it. After saw that you were able to cut/paste OK, I tried doing so from my iPhone using Safari, and it worked fine. Soooo, it must be something with the browser on the laptop. Guess any time I need to do a cut & paste, will have to use iPhone. Will
willald 09/09/20 08:36am Forum Posting Help and Support
LCI leveling jacks pump motor replacement

Well, leveling jacks on the Georgetown (see signature) quit working completely yesterday. Hear clicking of relays, motor won't run. Verified with volt meter there is 12 volts going to the motor, but it isn’t turning, so definitely the motor. This is an LCI jack system, 2012 model. Part # I found on the motor was 414850. Quick search or two brought up that this was going to be a very expensive motor - LCI wants $932 for it, even Amazon wanted around $800. Yikes! Then, found THIS post on IRV2 forum with some guys talking about a much less expensive alternative at Western Motors Service (WMS) in Rockport, IL. Apparently they make this same motor for less than half the price and it works fine with these LCI leveling systems. Their part number is W-414850. And, it is made in the USA (unlike the one LCI makes), and costs less than half the price, $395! I just ordered this motor from Western Motors. Verified with them that there IS a slot at the back to turn, run the motor manually in an emergency if you have to. You can't tell from the pictures they give, but she assured me it does have a slot in the back to allow manual operation. She indicated they sell 100s of these for just this application on RVs. You have to order it the old fashioned way (call them), they apparently don't do online shopping. Will post back here once I get it installed (gets here Tuesday next week), if anyone is interested. Anyway, wanted to share this, so that anyone else that faces a burnt pump motor on their LCI leveling jacks can save a good bit of coinage, too. :)
willald 09/09/20 08:31am Class A Motorhomes
cut and paste no longer works when posting?

I am trying to post a new topic in one of the forums related to a repair I'm working on, and it has a few links in it, making it very, very difficult to post without doing cut & paste. Used to be able to do cut & paste when posting, now it won't allow such anymore. Is there a way around this, a way to paste in a bunch of text when posting? Without being able to cut & paste, a lot of things I'd like to post on here, would be very difficult if not impossible..
willald 09/09/20 07:58am Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: LCI power steps won't shut off

Update: Got new motor, installed it this evening. Doug, you were right, it indeed was the motor. New motor in, Steps work just fine now. Woot! Putting in the motor was just as much a PITA as I remember it was last time. Thought I was never gonna get all those screws, spacers all lined up and in place! This time to make matters worse, holes in the new motor were too small for screws to go through, so had to get the drill out and carefully ream holes to make them ever slightly bigger. Now, onto the next issue: Leveling jacks just quit working, verified today it is indeed the motor that runs hydraulic pump. Time to source yet another electric motor, order it, and put it in. Ain’t one thing, it’s another, haha. Anyone have a lead on where to get best deal on a Lippert motor, part # 414850? Really don’t wanna pay $900 to buy it from Lippert. Well, guess this is a discussion for another thread. Thanks to all, especially Doug, for your insights and help with this.
willald 09/08/20 08:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Caution

You all must have some high powered Are Vees there! I can feel a brake hanging up a little on a trailer behind a diesel pickup, but there are folks who can drag a car down the road in park or with the brakes locked up and not notice anything is a bit off?? If that's the case, you only need to look in the mirror to assign blame or fault. Wake up! I've said it before, driving or towing a large vehicle or trailer isnt in everyone's bag of tricks. I'd never attempt surgery or computer programming and some people shouldn't tow things. Not really that powerful, it’s more of simple physics - when the towing vehicle weighs 5 or 6 times more than the unit being towed, it is quite possible to drag brakes on the towed vehicle and not really notice it much up front. If you’d ever towed a car behind a motorhome like many of us, you’d know that and understand why it’s wise to wire in an indicator to let you know when towed vehicle brakes are being applied.
willald 09/04/20 09:44pm Dinghy Towing
RE: LCI power steps won't shut off

Since Kwikee is the ONLY electric step now, I have experianced MORE failures of the Kwikee motor than in previous years. Even under the 1 year warranty. BUT, due to the breaking off of the LCI pivot bolt, I would utilize the Trade program on my RV. Bad news is, you usually have to drill 4 new Mount bolts in the kwikee frame as the Kwikee frame and the old LCI frame are different types. Doug Geeez, this makes me start to think a manual step would be a better idea. Wonder if it'd be possible to install a manual step, and design some way of cranking the steps in/out from both outside AND inside the coach? :) If that could be done, I'd just assume do away with the power step entirely... Will
willald 09/03/20 09:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: LCI power steps won't shut off

If the Pie gear teeth are OK, your motor is bad. Now, LCI will upgrade you to a Kwikee for a cost, if you choose not to have the recall done. Doug GET THE RECALL DONE ASAP. YOU CAN GET SERIOUSLY HURT IF THE STEP FAILS. Thanks, Doug. Indeed, you are right, it is the motor. :( After looking closer at the cam stops I noted initially in this thread, I can see that they are not the problem at all. That leaves just the motor itself, or more likely the gearing inside it has worn out. I just ordered the new motor from Amazon, it'll be here early next week. Not looking forward to wrestling all those spacers around the motor back in place when replacing it, but is what it is. This will be the 2nd time I've had to replace this motor. Last time was about 4 or 5 years ago. This seems to be a common failure point. Doug, do you know if the Kwikee upgrade you mentioned, has a motor that is any more reliable? If so, I could be tempted to just replace the whole step unit. Don't want to keep replacing a $162 motor every few years.
willald 09/03/20 08:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: LCI power steps won't shut off

Your problem is a BAD motor. Regardless of you replacing it a few years ago. This is a very common problem with LCI(Coach) steps. BTW Have you had the recall done to the steps? Double and Triple LCI steps have a very important Safety recall to install a brace under the pivot bolt for the Pie Gear. The other possible problem is if you have sheared off Gear teeth on that Pie shaped Gear assbly. This is easily seen when underneath the steps. Doug Ahh, Doug, was hoping you'd respond. Have read, seen many of your posts, know that you are very knowledgeable on these things since you work on them. No, have not had the recall done. Thanks for the info, I will look into getting that done. Man, I **HOPE** it isn't the motor! I replaced it once, and remember it being a royal PITA getting all those screws, spacers, etc. lined up just right to put the new motor in. Soooo don't want to do that again! Have you seen where specifically this happens (motor won't shut off), and it turned out to be the motor? I was thinking gear teeth also, and looked at them closely. Gear teeth on both the pie gear and the motor look OK.
willald 09/01/20 01:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: LCI power steps won't shut off

Over the years when my steps act like they are possessed it always turns out to be low battery or loose/bad ground. Already ruled out battery early on (it does this even when hooked up to shore power or when engine running, and plenty of 12V power). I too thought it could be ground, but as noted in original post, I've already ruled that out as well. Really thought running a dedicated ground wire to it would solve the problem, but it did not.
willald 09/01/20 12:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: LCI power steps won't shut off

There's probably a limit switch somewhere that got dislodged. Something along the lines of a refer light switch. These steps don't work that way. Control module shuts motor off based on load, how much amperage motor is using. When it hits its stops (whether going in or out), steps stop moving, motor starts using more amps trying to turn, control module shuts it off. Only limit switch is the cam stops I mentioned, which I will try adjusting next. They're not really a switch, but more a physical stop for the stairs. Will
willald 09/01/20 12:03pm Class A Motorhomes
LCI power steps won't shut off

Several weeks ago, the power steps on our Motorhome (2012 FR Georgetown) started going crazy. Any time they retract or extend, the motor will not shut off until I grab the steps, and pull on them fairly hard. Steps will go out all the way, and motor keeps on running, steps shake/jerk as motor tries to keep extending them. Same thing happens when they roll in. Only way to stop it is to firmly grab the steps and pull out, or push in on them (or disconnect power to the steps). I replace the motor a few years ago when it quit, so don't think thats it. Replaced the control module last week thinking that was it. No difference. Then thought it was maybe a bad ground connection, so I ran a wire straight from the negative side of battery connected directly to the two ground wires coming from the module. No difference. Have concluded that this probaly is not an electrical issue. It seems more of a physical problem with the steps - Motor is not encountering enough 'resistance' at end of travel, for it to shut off as it is supposed to. Have noticed there are cam stops on each side of the steps, that steps are supposed to come up against and stop on. Found where there is a procedure in the manual to re-align them. Seems they may be out of alignment, and one side is hitting first, causing this issue where steps keep trying to move on the side where it hasn't hit the cam stop yet. Will probably try next to adjust these cam stops. Any thoughts, suggestions from anyone that might have experienced something similar with power steps? Has anyone ever adjusted those cam stops? Or maybe had similar issues with the steps, and fixed it another way?
willald 09/01/20 09:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Caution

For 14 years I've had a cab light connected to the toad brake lights so that I know when the toad brakes are applied, no help with the ebrake of course. Yep, I do the same, always have. Am a firm believer that no matter what toad braking system one uses, it is a very good idea to wire some kind of indicator to let you know any time toad vehicle's brakes are being applied. Without that, if something goes wrong and toad's brakes start dragging...By the time you realize it up in the Motorhome cab, a LOT of expensive damage may well already be done to your toad. I would not want a toad that required disconnecting the battery. A sitch external to the hood area might be acceptable. Agreed, wouldn't want that, either, not even if it was via a switch. Would get very old, having to reset the clocks, etc. in the car after every trip. That, and I'd always be afraid I'd forget one time to disconnect it and would cause a bunch of damage.
willald 09/01/20 09:12am Dinghy Towing
RE: Caution

What does your Ford Edge's owner's manual say about towing it 4 down? Specifically, look for the section on recreational towing. Does it say that you need to disconnect the battery before towing it? Some Ford vehicles require that. This sounds like you have one that requires you to disconnect the battery when flat towing, to prevent exactly what happened to you - transmission electronically shifting into gear while towing. If that is the case (required to disconnect battery when towing and you did not), then Ford is right on here, and this is indeed your responsibility. This would not be the first time that has happened, either. The other issues you had with brakes apparently dragging and doing some damage....Welll, that's a whol'e nother story, and shows why no matter what system you use, you need to wire in an indicator light of some kind so that you know in the Motorhome exactly when the towed vehicle's brakes are engaging or not. If you'd had that, there is a good chance you'd have known there was an issue before it did so much damage.
willald 08/31/20 12:17pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Do you leave MH plugged in for power at home?

Have always done that in one form or another. As previously noted, you'll need to verify you have a converter that won't overcharge your batteries. Regardless what converter you have, its a good idea to keep an eye on your batteries water/acid level and occasionally top it off when its plugged in all the time. When I lived in an apartment temporarily about 2 years ago and could not keep it plugged up to power, I had to make it a point to crank up the generator and run it for an hour or two about once a week to keep the batteries charged. If I did not, the house batteries would drain and have issues. Every house I've owned (total of 3 now), one of the first things I've done is had an electrician install an RV outlet for the Motorhome. We just moved last month back to NC, and just had a 30 amp outlet installed at the new house here. Would have preferred a 50 amp like had at the previous house in Georgia, but that proved way too costly. If you just want to keep the batteries charged and won't need to run air conditioners inside, then there is no need to install a 30 or 50 amp outlet - You can just use adapters to plug into a regular 110V outlet. Did that for a while, too, before I got the RV outlet installed. However, here in the South where it gets really hot in the summer, I like to be able to run the air conditioners when loading/unloading the Motorhome or working on stuff inside it, in which case you need a 30 or 50 amp outlet.d
willald 06/11/20 07:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bicycle Rack

Problem we found with attaching them to the back (or front) of the Motorhome is, sometimes we like to be able to take the bikes places with the towed vehicle. Didn't want to be tied to only carrying the bikes with the Motorhome. That, and if you look carefully at the fine print, most hitch mounted bike racks are not even recommended/warrantied to be used on the back of an RV, due to all the bouncing that takes place back there. I seem to recall there is only one or two makes out there that support this use. For a while, I did use a hitch mounted rack and attached it to the back of the towed vehicle (Ford Fusion at the time). That didn't work too good for us, either. Hated how trunk access was taken away. Last straw for it was one time we hit a large bump that snapped the bikes around so bad, the strap connecting the rack to the trunk lid jerked so hard it twisted the trunk lid and caused some pretty major damage (trunk lid had to be replaced). Fortunately, insurance covered the damage, but that was the end of my days using hitch mounted racks. I ditched the hitch receiver bike rack for good, and went with a Yakima roof mounted system. Now, we carry our bikes on top of the towed vehicle. Can carry up to 4 bikes this way if I need to, and can be just about ANY kind of bicycle. Roof rack can be used to carry several other things, too, if the need arises (kayaks, storage bins to name a few). Yes, this approach is more expensive, but you can minimize the cost by buying many of the parts on Craigs List or Ebay slightly used. I saved several hundred $$ going that route. And, when towed vehicle (Ford Fusion) was totaled in an accident a few years ago and we were forced to replace it, the roof rack fit perfectly on the new towed vehicle (Taurus) that replaced the Fusion. Now, bikes don't touch (scrape against) each other or anything else, are held in place by the wheel only. Completely out of the way, and very easy to take down and put up. And no more (or at least nowhere near as much) bouncing around for the bikes. I highly, highly recommend you at least look into this approach. It works great for us.
willald 02/05/20 07:40am Class A Motorhomes
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