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 > Your search for posts made by 'wnjj' found 153 matches.

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RE: Over filling

This is a common question asked on a Jayco Facebook group. Many times it is the pressure check valve on the pump especially if the pump hasn't been used for some time. The check valve gets dry and sticks. Pumping some water from the freshwater tank can help to prevent that. That check valve is located on the power input end of the pump. ^this 1. Run some water through the faucets using only the pump. 2. If that doesn’t fix it you may have to take the pump apart to clean a piece of debris out. 3. Failing that, you can usually buy a rebuild kit (new diaphragm) or new pump.
wnjj 09/25/21 09:02am Travel Trailers
RE: Pairing honda eu generator problem

If you plug into the companion generator (with the 30 or 20A receptacle), but without the generators paralleled, does that work? Try just that generator with the RV 30 to twist lock 30 then with the RV 30 to 20. Report back.
wnjj 09/25/21 08:53am Tech Issues
RE: HVAC - No Compressor run

wnjj Again, thanks for the info. Would you happen to know the part number for the relay? (jt box 8330-385) I have never soldered on a circuit board but I have a brother-in-law who builds electrical devices. His job is to repair stun guns and police body cameras so he is well prepared for the task. Sorry I don’t but if you post a picture of the relay I could check out the specs on it. You need only match the footprint, coil voltage and amp contact rating. Relays are usually fairly universally and easy to swap. I did one on the control board of our Norcold fridge a few years ago.
wnjj 09/19/21 10:26am Tech Issues
RE: HVAC - No Compressor run

When you jumped to the Y terminal, was the thermostat still connected to Y? If so it may have been pulling that down too much. While you are jumpered, trying checking the voltage on the Y terminal at the compressor. The opposite could also be true. Perhaps the relay coil at the compressor is shorted and pulls any source down. Try measuring the Y output from the thermostat with nothing connected to it. Thanks for that idea. I have checked and there is no voltage (well, .05V this morning) when the line from the thermostat is disconnected from the board terminal. And I know that if I wire around the relay, the compressor runs. It’s possible a shorted relay took out the thermostat. Just to be clear, you tried a jumper on the relay coil (Y terminal) with the thermostat out of the circuit? You should see voltage on the source you jumped from (fan) before you connect the jumper. Then if you still see voltage when you connect it to the Y pin, it means the relay coil is open. If the voltage drops to near 0, the coil is shorted and pulling even the fan signal down.
wnjj 09/19/21 12:57am Tech Issues
RE: HVAC - No Compressor run

When you jumped to the Y terminal, was the thermostat still connected to Y? If so it may have been pulling that down too much. While you are jumpered, trying checking the voltage on the Y terminal at the compressor. The opposite could also be true. Perhaps the relay coil at the compressor is shorted and pulls any source down. Try measuring the Y output from the thermostat with nothing connected to it.
wnjj 09/17/21 12:24am Tech Issues
RE: Suggestion needed ASAP

OP’s tires: https://filesharing-eugene.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/2021-09-16+21.01.06.jpg Width=640
wnjj 09/17/21 12:18am Travel Trailers
RE: Loss of power when driving

So the response of the ECU to a bad knock sensor is to max out the fuel trim. What that means is it runs the engine as lean as possible which would definitely account for the lost power. Looks like knock sensors run about $100 each, harnesses are around $45 and labor will probably be a few hundred. Btw there's a known issue with rusting of the knock sensors so when they're replaced make sure they follow the TSB and put in the silicone dam to stop future water intrusion which should keep you from needing to do the repair again in the future. I agree that it’s really strange to have both failing at the same time. I wonder if some other condition causes the engine to think the sensors are bad. If you do replace them, they’re only $36.79 each for the ACDelco sensors on rockauto.com. When I looked into this a bit, it seems the 8.1L has the knock sensors on the outside of the engine below the exhaust manifolds so the water intrusion isn’t an issue there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1V5Gb0VRFM Also on Amazon: Sensor Connector
wnjj 09/09/21 09:37am Tech Issues
RE: "Use Both Lanes Until Merge Point"

The sign says "lane ends merge", it doesn't say "lane ends merge but wait til the end and force your way over.At the point of merge I believe the other vehicles should open a space. Yes unfortunately they did 1/4 mile back and let in 3 vehicles and people keep sliding up the side and then at the end they are tired of all the cutting in and make it hard for the person doing the right thing. Most people just don't get how this should work. X2. There should be no “forcing” required since the traffic in the through lane should be properly and courteously making space for every other vehicle. If you choose the longer, slower line early that’s on you. Lining up early can work when speeds stay near the limit and traffic is light. The situations that cause the most issues are when there is stop and go for 1/2 mile or more.
wnjj 09/04/21 06:43pm General RVing Issues
RE: "Use Both Lanes Until Merge Point"

When people have opportunities to move over and they don’t and speed past to the end THAT is the problem. When I pulled in like most have and are in the thru lane we are bumper to bumper near the end. Why should I hit my brakes to let someone in that clearly does not think they should wait like everyone else???I've had people try to squeeze past me when we are right at the cones. Now I straddle the line between the lanes a good 100 yards before the pinch point. Both lanes are thru lanes until the merge point, at which the two lanes should alternate filling the single lane. If everyone did that there would be no place to “speed past to the end” as everyone would be lined up to the end. The problem is the early mergers who pack into a single lane at the slightest indication of a merge. Early warning signs only make it worse. I’ve been on freeways with long enough backups to block other exits, particularly on urban freeways. Dave, 100 yards is reasonably close enough to be considered the end though nobody should have to squeeze past if both lanes just alternated.
wnjj 09/04/21 01:12am General RVing Issues
RE: "Use Both Lanes Until Merge Point"

How about a compromise? Take the open lane but don’t fly past everyone else. Either pace alongside the moving other lane or if it’s stopped like the the photo above, slowly make your way toward the front. In theory this should help to fill up that empty lane behind you rather than it just being a few of you like-minded people “passing” everyone over there.
wnjj 09/03/21 11:48am General RVing Issues
RE: Safety Chains Binding Between Hitch Head & Trunnion Bars

I have used a Equalizer WDH for many years with no chains to contend with. Chains are Too much hassle for me as I am low energy like Safety chains, not WDH chains. You’d better still have those.
wnjj 09/03/21 12:33am Travel Trailers
RE: Are Ground Bonding Plugs required for Each Inverter/Genny?

In the link for the Link it shows the yellow wires going to each gen's chassis ground lug. How does the chassis ground for the gen connect to the gen's receptacles' neutrals by using the bonding plug unless the gen's chassis is connected to the receptacles' grounds? Is that what wnjj meant above? Yes, the ground pins on the 20A receptacle are connected internally to the ground lug, which is where you attach the parallel kit ground.
wnjj 09/01/21 10:00am Tech Issues
RE: Are Ground Bonding Plugs required for Each Inverter/Genny?

OP is asking about plugging into gens, but the two receptacles are in the paraLink. The neutral-grounding plugs I am referring to are plugged into the inverters 120V receptacle I have seen the bonded 15a adapters used for that and you would have one on the shore power cord plug. You say you will be using the parallel kit, so you will be plugging into one of the two 30a paraLink receptacles depending on your plug type, not into one of the gens. Do you intend to have a 30a adapter modified to be bonded? Very confusing. He’s planning to plug the RV into the paraLink kit but the bonding plug into one of the 120V receptacles on one of the generators. The answer is it will work fine so long as the ground wire (I.e. the screw loop terminal) from the paraLink is connected to the ground lug on the generator with the bonding plug. All bonding does is connect the green ground wire to the neutral. Once all neutrals are connected to each other and all grounds are connected to each other bonding can be done on either generator or at the unused the paraLink receptacle.
wnjj 08/31/21 11:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Does the Color of an HD Pickup Make a Difference?

If it's not red, it's just transportation. (old saying) Seriously though, buy the truck in the color you WANT. I don't worry nor think about "I hop the next guy likes this color". Sure, a few years down the road, you will find odd color combos or a color choice that is not to your taste (if buying used) but who cares, really? We have bought cars in tan/gold that I would not have bought new...and got a great deal because it was not silver/red/blue/whatever. Point is, if buying new, get what YOU LIKE. I think the point was he doesn’t want the next buyer to get a “great deal” because he chose an unpopular color. It sounds like he has no preference whatsoever.
wnjj 08/30/21 10:11am Tow Vehicles
RE: Awning working backwards after fabric replacement

I don't know what you're really asking about "help"...tension builds as you wind on more turns... By “help” I mean that the roll wants to unroll under spring pressure so it stops fighting against you winding it up. If it’s building tension, how could the roll not want to roll up the awning to relieve the tension? If you are working to wind the spring CCW on the front arm (presumably by rotating the end of the internal shaft with a vice-grip) this should make the roll want to also turn CCW to “chase after” the shaft you are winding up. If the awning is wrapped over the top, this should make it roll up not unroll. Put another way: When you tension the springs you are essentially just rolling up the awning, but with a spring in between you and the roll. You are winding them in the same direction as the roll needs to wind up. Im struggling to see how that can possibly create tension that wants to unwind it. I know you said you tensioned the front CCW and the rear CW and even tried them the opposite with the same result. The only way I can imaging that happening is if you wound one end correctly and the other backward. That would result in an awning that just sits there until you force roll it up. Once you do that, the “backward” wound spring would certainly be tighter and try to unroll it again. Make sure on each end that you’re turning the shaft in the direction that would want to roll up the fabric.
wnjj 08/29/21 09:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Awning working backwards after fabric replacement

When you are winding the springs I assume you feel the tension building? I don’t see how you can wind a spring and not have the tube try build tension in the same direction. The cog mechanism can prevent it from turning but not make it try to turn the opposite direction. At what point does the roll stop resisting as you are winding the spring and start trying to “help”?
wnjj 08/29/21 10:11am Tech Issues
RE: Porsche as a tow vehicle? Depends on the trailer . . .

From one of the comments below the article, to which the author responded that he’d talk with his friend: Tony, with all due respect, as a licensed adjuster for over 30 years I can assure you that there’s no exclusion contained in the standard ISO personal auto policy that excludes coverage for overloading a vehicle. That’s a popular misconception I often read in online RV forums, Facebook groups, etc. First-party claims are not excluded by the policy language, and in the event that the driver causes damage to someone else, in fact that’s what the third-party liability coverage is intended to do: defend and indemnify an insured for their negligent acts or omissions, which would include negligently overloading a vehicle.
wnjj 08/26/21 10:41am Travel Trailers
RE: Center of gravity

As someone with an EC950 on a similar but long bed 3500 Chevy I sure wouldn’t want it on a short bed. At the very least the known weak spot with these and many slide models is the frame under the slide. Ours has a small sag to it. The 2004 vintage of bigger brother 1150’s would crack frame welds back there. That could only be made worse with that much more camper hanging unsupported off the back of the bed. It’s about 4000 lbs loaded with a battery, LP, water an average amount of “stuff”. Regarding the thread title: the CG is roughly over the rear axle as the front axle weight didn’t change much if at all if I remember correctly. A short bed would definitely unload the front and overload the rear axle even more.
wnjj 08/25/21 06:22pm Truck Campers
RE: A cautionary tale... Pack a "Go Bag"

For many most daily meds can be skipped for a few days to a week or more without serious consequences but some are nearly life changing if not life threatening almost immediately when discontinued even for brief periods. :C Yeah. That's why I think a small container that you can attach to your keys or put in your purse for those "absolutely must have" meds is best. They are always with you no matter what. So even if you forget your go bag, you have those meds. What if you go out for a day with a buddy in his vehicle? Are you going to remember to grab your bag? What do you do about the fact the prescription meds need to be in their marked containers?
wnjj 08/23/21 01:41am General RVing Issues
RE: Loss of power when driving

Did you ever get this sorted out? Edit: Never mind, I just saw your other post about your RV being miles away.
wnjj 08/19/21 12:44am Tech Issues
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