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RE: Out of State Purchase - Private Party
Been there, done that:
Before leaving home, visit with your banker and (assuming you will be paying "cash") let them know that you may be initiating a wire transfer for the purchase of an RV and be sure to get the name of the bank exec you visit with as well as exact instruction on how you need to go about initiating a wire transfer.
Absolutely, after agreeing on a price, go see it first hand and have it inspected (preferably with you there to "see what he sees").
If it what you want (or reduce offer if issues, but still want it at a reduced price) verify that seller does have a "blue" Texas/clear title.
Contact your bank and wire funds to seller.
When funds arrive (usually a matter of an hour or two) and verified by seller's bank the two of you go to the Texas tax office and at least fill out the Texas Motor Vehicle Transfer Notification form (available on-line) as well as the original title. If registering in Texas, complete the registration process right there.
You take possession at this point. You now have "paper ownership" and physical possession and seller knows funds are in his bank.
Both buyer and seller are protected and, if seller not comfortable with this there is likely a BAD reason.
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wolfe10
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01/28/20 08:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dometic Plant Closing
Long discussion of this already here in Tech Issues:
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30031025.cfm
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wolfe10
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01/28/20 10:39am |
Tech Issues
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RE: RV for Central America Trip
Vehicle wise, I still think you’re looking at far too new of a rig for a trip into the unknown.
There are just too many 10-20 year old RVs with super low miles and in good shape for 1/2 of what even a 5 year old would cost.
And then beating it up potentially won’t hurt your wallet as much.
But when you mention “learn the mechanics” and 6 months in the same sentence, that means you’re not already mechanically saavy and 6 months is not much time to learn how to repair a vehcile or RV. So buy in good condition
I agree with both parts of this statement.
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wolfe10
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01/26/20 08:08am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Low air alarm in 2000 Monaco Diplomat
RE: key off problem:
Do other things that should only work with the key on work with it off-- dash HVAC fan for example? If so, start by checking at the IGNITION SOLENOID.
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wolfe10
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01/25/20 06:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Low air alarm in 2000 Monaco Diplomat
If air system maxes out at 80 PSI, most likely "suspect" is the AIR GOVERNOR.
Not expensive or difficult to replace.
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wolfe10
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01/25/20 03:59pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dead house Battery
Fully charge them all. You can only properly test batteries that are fully charged.
Separate them (remove cables AFTER labeling them).
Have them LOAD TESTED (free at places that sell batteries).
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wolfe10
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01/25/20 03:58pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Low air alarm in 2000 Monaco Diplomat
The low pressure warning SHOULD come on before pressure is lowered to 60 PSI.
If you start the engine and build PSI back to cut-out PSI (assuming 110+ PSI) is the alarm still active?
Air Brake System Pre-trip Check
1. Be on reasonably level ground. Block wheels so the coach can not move even with the parking brake off.
2. Start engine and run until full air pressure is reached. Listen for the dryer to purge (about 120 PSI).
3. Shut off the engine.
4. Release the parking brake by pushing in the yellow button (make sure you don't roll, and do NOT apply the brake pedal).
5. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose more than 2 PSI per minute.
6. Apply the brake pedal firmly (still with the parking brake OFF).
7. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose any more than 3 PSI per minute.
8. With the engine off, ignition on and parking brake off, rapidly pump the brake pedal to bleed down the air supply. During this stage you should watch for the warning light and buzzer at about 60 PSI and then the yellow button (parking brake) should pop out at about 30 PSI.
9. Restart the engine and build up air pressure again. While building up pressure, check how long it takes for pressure to go from 85 to 100 PSI at “cruising RPM”. It should be less than 45 seconds.
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wolfe10
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01/25/20 02:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: RV for Central America Trip
Just an observation, but I hate to see a "please help me choose the correct rig for the trip I have planned" thread
TURNED INTO A
Why you should not do XYZ.
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wolfe10
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01/25/20 12:18pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Low air alarm in 2000 Monaco Diplomat
Wonder if more than just low air could be triggering the alarm?
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wolfe10
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01/24/20 08:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: RV for Central America Trip
Sounds like maybe a job for a school bus conversion? Rugged vehicles that have common commercial truck maintenance parts, cubbards that won’t fall apart cause you installed them, lots of tank capacity...etc
Check CAREFULLY with each country to verify that a school bus conversion would be allowed vs being considered a commercial vehicle.
I am not suggesting this will be a problem, but there ARE "got-ya's" with 1 ton dually's into Mexico being one.
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wolfe10
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01/24/20 02:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Help finding fresh date Tires
Rubber ages, even if on a shelf.
Think of that rubber band in a nice clean drawer. How good is it a year or two later???
On a motorhome you will be replacing the tires because they age out, not because you wear out the tread.
I would sure not want to pay the same price for tires you can use for 4 instead of, say 6 years.....
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wolfe10
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01/24/20 02:11pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: RV for Central America Trip
I understand what you want to do and the need to stay small. I would look at the same size C with a full wall slide like the Leprechaun 240FS just to give you some more room when camping for the night or days on end.
And, given some of the very rough roads you will be on and topes you will not see until too late, I would recommend exactly the opposite-- a no slide unit. Better structural integrity and more storage.
For that trip a rugged, KISS theory RV is what I would recommend.
Yes, if spending a week or more in a CG, slides are great. But on a trip like you are planning-- not so much.
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wolfe10
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01/24/20 08:48am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: RV for Central America Trip
I would not buy a new RV and pack it up for trip. If you must buy new get it at least 6 months ahead of time and put some miles on it to work out the kinks. My preference would be 1 or 2 years old with 20,000 miles on it. These things are a rolling conglomeration of parts and systems, supplied by the lowest bidder. All waiting for the most inopportune time to fail.
I do not see an issue, large family's crossed the US in conestoga wagons and most of them survived.
Good advice.
The other (minor) issue is that in those areas (and we have spent many winters in our motorhome in Mexico) a brand new vehicle will stick out more than a used one.
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wolfe10
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01/24/20 07:37am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Help finding fresh date Tires
You need to post the actual tire size for our direct help.
" Michelin 22 / 80 tires" is not it.
Could be something like 275/80R22.5
The other option is to call Michelin Corp.
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wolfe10
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01/24/20 07:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 5 figure 30 foot
With very rare exceptions, under 36' diesel pushers are rare.
Yes, there are a few, but generally, they handle "less well" than the longer ones on exactly the same chassis, as the 100% of the difference in length is taken out of the WHEELBASE! Short wheelbase/overall length do not handle as well.
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wolfe10
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01/21/20 10:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Norcold fridge
Start by doing a complete "burner area tune-up". No parts and no special tools needed.
You will be removing and cleaning the burner tube, cleaning the ignitor/thermocouple and setting its gap.
Also, remove the gas jet and soak in alcohol.
ONLY if this fails to fix it should you start considering spending $$.
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wolfe10
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01/17/20 11:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 6.7 cummins HP
I think a lot of the issue is "owner expectation". If it bothers you to slow down on grades, you will "need" a larger engine.
If you can live with lesser performance it will absolutely get you anywhere you want to go.
We sold our 1993 Foretravel with 170,000 miles. 250 HP and went everywhere. Last coach with 400 HP-- same thing, but lost less speed on grades. Both were fine vehicles.
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wolfe10
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01/17/20 07:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: engine antifreeze
Not RVs, but on trucks I have heard that not keeping the right chemicals in the coolant leads to pinholes in the liners, coolant leaking into crankcase or combustion chamber.
Does the engine know what box it is in?
This is true for ANY linered engine.
Again for the OP, if you do not know how long the coolant has been in there or what it is, just drain, flush and go back with a new-generation OAT-based coolant. Then forget about it for 6 years. At that point, you might test it to see if you can go another year.
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wolfe10
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01/17/20 07:30am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Kirkland motor oil
Just bought 6 packs of Mobil 1 at Sams for $28.78.
Sale ends 1/26.
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wolfe10
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01/16/20 06:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: engine antifreeze
Scott,
Just going from the OP's first post-- he currently has green coolant. OE-- we have no idea.
Actually, not a bad idea to do a complete flush and go with one of the new-generation OAT based coolants.
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wolfe10
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01/15/20 08:59pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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