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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Brake problem
OR that the tire bead broke loose from the rim??
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wolfe10
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09/21/19 09:38am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I got the shakes
Or that the tire bead broke loose from the rim???
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wolfe10
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09/21/19 09:37am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: new generator time
Check Craigslist. You will often find used ones on them from RV's being totaled/scrapped.
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wolfe10
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09/20/19 05:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: To DP or not DP
Yea now If I could only get under my coach to get to air line so I can install that cylinder I got from you.
Isn’t that what air bags are for? :B
Dave
Dave,
Suspect you are joking. But, actually, not funny.
Some newbie may indeed think that the air suspension alone gives them safety to get under the coach.
Newbies: NOT. Air system fails, you do not want to be under there when it happens.
Safety stands are the answer.
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wolfe10
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07/21/19 04:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Class C..mounting fan
These are high quality, can be mounted in any orientation and draw little power. But $$. Have some on the sailboat with over a thousand hours on them.
https://www.hellamarine.com/en/products/accessories/fans/turbo-fan.html
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wolfe10
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07/21/19 09:26am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: AC air smells acrid
Reality-- NO.
Particularly in hot, HUMID conditions, the EVAPORATOR is likely a mold farm.
Only real answer is to clean the evaporator. Any box store has evaporator cleaner.
Only serviced from the roof. Take old rags/towels up to plug the opening to the coach to keep cleaner and water out of the coach.
Basically, an annual servicing in humid climates. "Cures" the wet dog smell when you turn on the A/C.
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wolfe10
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07/20/19 04:04pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Motor Whine
What chassis/what engine?
Would garner much more specific advice.
Gas/diesel? Ford/Workhorse?
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wolfe10
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07/20/19 04:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What is going on!!!!!!!!!
Just drill a 1/8" hole on high point of overflow pipe.
Yup. I've done this with every MH we've ever owned.
If possible, I extend the height of the overflow with a T first. I put a plug in the top of the T then drill a small hole in that (red arrow). I use the side of the T for the overflow. We've been camping for over 20 years now and this method has always worked. Simple, cheap, effective, and nothing to fail.
https://i.imgur.com/qWBGQCJ.jpg
A very good home-made anti-siphon valve. Since these are on the potable water tank, I would add a small screen to the opening to keep dirt and insects out of the potable water tank.
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wolfe10
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07/19/19 07:51am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: roof air
Yup, you need to clean the EVAPORATOR. Done from on the roof.
Get a commercial evaporator cleaner from any box store.
Stuff old towels/rags in the duct to the coach so you don't get cleaner or water down in the coach.
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wolfe10
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07/19/19 06:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Wheel bearings
Actually, a hammer and BRASS or other soft metal drift work just fine for race replacement.
Totally agree, hard steel drifts are a big no-no.
Been doing that for over 50 years and have never damaged a race or hub.
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wolfe10
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07/18/19 11:12am |
Tech Issues
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RE: What is going on!!!!!!!!!
Plastic tanks expand when full, just install a anti siphon T and short riser to resolve. My riser is 6" long with a loose cap on the top.
Best answer. There are also plenty of anti-siphon valves commercially available.
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wolfe10
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07/18/19 10:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: house batterys
Bad battery. Replace them both.
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wolfe10
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07/18/19 08:28am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 100 amp service
30 amp is 30 amp. 50 amp is two legs of fifty amps and a common ground not 100 amps total.
Depends on AT WHAT VOLTAGE.
Indeed 50 amp RV service is 100 amps @ 120 VAC. 50 amps @ 240 VAC.
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wolfe10
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07/14/19 06:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Battery Maintenance
My understanding (math), the 2 20Ah 6V in series would make a 12V, 40Ah bank and then when connected in parallel to the same would make a 12V 80Ah bank. The chassis batteries, which have approximately a 160Ah, so do I set the inverter charger battery capacity at 80ah or the combine total of 240AH.
NO.
First, I would be surprised if any 6 VDC batteries were only 20 Ah. Check them again.
But when wired in series 2 20 Ah @ 6 VDC batteries= 1 20 Ah @ 12 VDC battery.
Wire that in parallel with another pair= total battery bank of 40 Ah @ 12 VDC
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wolfe10
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07/12/19 07:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 100 amp service
Please tell us what RV you have/are considering that will not operate on 50 amp RV power???
I have seen some Bus chassis motorhomes with 5 AC’s. But even they are served by a 50 amp spit phase 240 volt pedestal. Other than “other than motor home needs” like an Electtic vehicle or portable grow op I can’t see the need for 100 amp service. Our townhouse is only 100 amp service and we have an electric range, electtic dryer, central air and two electric vehicle chargers. 100 amp would be a lot for a Motorhome.
Yup, without knowing what RV the OP has, we can only speculate if has one of the very rare, HUGE RV's with 3-4 roof A/C's, etc OR if he has a "regular" 50 amp coach (where 2 hots @ 50 amps each= 100 amps).
Inquiring minds want to know.
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wolfe10
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07/10/19 10:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 100 amp service
Please tell us what RV you have/are considering that will not operate on 50 amp RV power???
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wolfe10
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07/09/19 07:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: ARP Fridge Defend - Boiler temp shows 329F - new install
I reached out to the designer/builder of the ARP Frig Defend.
Here is his reply:
Thanks for the feedback, and letting us know that you have an Amish cooling unit.
First and foremost, IR temperature readings are challenging to get an accurate reading.
Next, 329F = 165C, this is actually a low boiler temperature, but the boiler could be warming up or cooling down?
The normal range for a Norcold 1200 is 185 to 195C (365 - 383F).
Please note that the "normal" temperature for any cooling unit is dependent upon the pressure that the cooling unit was charged with. Also note, 482F (250C) is not the point at which the ARP shuts off at. Also, please see letter from Norcold to ARP at this link:
https://www.arprv.com/arp-versus-norcold-recall.php which states that the recall will only respond after 800F (427C), which is also the yield point of the cooling unit tubing with the normal charge pressure.
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wolfe10
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07/02/19 04:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Starter will not turn over
Perhaps we are misreading: OP may have a 2005 coach with batteries he just replaced.
If so, either a wire was left off or a fuse was blown when installing the batteries.
What happens when you turn on the ignition? Allison shift pad illuminate? Other things that only work with ignition on such as dash HVAC fan work?
BTW, your Caterpillar C7 has an intake manifold heater, not glow plugs.
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wolfe10
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07/01/19 08:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: CAT 3126B
Fortunately the OP’s engine had a hand pump, many do not. I would only change a Cat on a hill (nose up) with a full tank plus have the new filter full of fuel changing as quickly as possible.
OR, add a Caterpillar hand primer pump if you have the Caterpillar fuel filter base.
OR add/change your primary fuel filter to one with a primer pump.
Caterpillar primer pump is better as excellent quality and quite a lot higher volume than the "rubber button" primers.
Have seen the Caterpillar filter bases with primer pumps on quite a number of Caterpillar products. Would not hesitate to buy the base with pump used.
OR,
You could install inline shut off valves, like I and many others have and, once done, you can change that single fuel filter or the two, if you have two, when the coach is up hill, down hill, level, standing on its nose, upside down, it won't matter. The fuel will and CANNOT move, in any of those lines if those valves are installed.
The OP needs to learn terminology so that we understand what he's trying to ask. "Crank" is cranking the engine. Crank but, WILL NOT START is a whole 'nother ball game.
Scott
Scott,
Totally agree. A ball valve on the inlet side of the primary fuel filter is another good idea. Prevents fuel from running all the way back to the tank OR continuing to run out the filter head.
Also makes an excellent anti-theft device!
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wolfe10
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06/30/19 12:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fridge Defend ARP Device
I reached out to Paul, the engineer who designed and builds the ARP.
Here is his e-mail back to me:
One must remember that when a manual is written for a universal product, there is a lot of info.
Most of the info is not needed, rather focus on the Make and Model of fridge you are installing for.
Call Paul if you have any questions, he is there to help.
The drawings for wiring are straight forward, in addition there are videos for the installation of the boiler sensor.
Like anything else, small steps make it manageable, and the links in the manuals are cross references for your convince.
Only follow the links if you need further information.
Basic wiring video: https://www.arprv.com/installation-procedures.php
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wolfe10
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06/28/19 01:10pm |
Tech Issues
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