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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Location of the voltage regulator needed
Notify moderator function not working (again).
A duplicate of this post in Class A section. Probably better there.
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wolfe10
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11/10/19 09:55am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Battery storage
Can you connect all of them and charge together-- yes.
BUT, if not too difficult it is preferable to charge batteries of same technology size and age together.
Depends on how easy it is to switch from charging one bank to the other on a weekly basis.
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wolfe10
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11/09/19 03:47pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: extension cord length
Yup length AND wire gauge as well as load will determine whether your voltage drop is acceptable or "will let the smoke out" of you 120 VAC appliances.
If all you are running is a battery charger, smaller gauge can be used. If you plan to run high amp items like a roof air, a VERY different matter.
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wolfe10
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11/09/19 07:03am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Cummins 5 year old synthetic oil with 1000 miles - change ?
And, I would find someone who would change it for a LOT less than $200 and DO IT!
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wolfe10
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11/07/19 04:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel Pusher upgrading to heavier toad-advice needed
I don't know about everyone else but after reading that, I am going to have all of these calculations going on in my head while driving down the road.LOL The newest of which is the cold air temp robbing my MPGs. :E
Thanks for the interesting info!
Aerodynamic drag changing with temperature should come as a big surprise. More molecules to "hit" at colder temperatures.
I KNOW pilots know this. Heck, this summer we just flew non-stop Dallas to Sidney, Australia. Airbus 380. Sold out flight. 1/4 seats EMPTY. With hot temperature in Dallas, not enough lift (not enough air molecules passing over/under the wings) with full plane (ya and enough fuel for the 17+ hour flight).
Our MPG in summer running the dash air is still better than freezing temperatures trips without the compressor running.
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wolfe10
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11/07/19 03:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: house battery question
Correct-- turn off all charging before checking.
Hydrogen gas is part of what is "bubbling". It is explosive if you mistakenly cause a spark.
So, yes, safer to turn off charging half hour or so before removing the caps.
Necessary-- likely not. But a pretty easy/cheap safety precaution.
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wolfe10
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11/06/19 08:50am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel Pusher upgrading to heavier toad-advice needed
Bottom line (based on physics):
Extra weight has little effect on flat ground once up to speed.
Extra weight makes a difference when accelerating.
Extra weight makes a more significant difference when climbing grades.
Go to this link and download the PDF. Written by Caterpillar Corp, but same physics applies to all vehicles.
http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,6594.0.html
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wolfe10
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11/06/19 07:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 100K miles
Pictures in second post in this thread:
https://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-issue-monaco-hr-safari-chassis/
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wolfe10
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11/04/19 02:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 100K miles
100k just shows it was put together right , didn't blow up during
break in .
You probably know about the recall on the rear trailing arms for your
chassis .
Chances are the arms have already been replaced , so an alert just in
case .
The original Monaco is long gone so you will have to pay for it
yourself .
Source Engineering makes replacements .
Details of the trailing arm issue:
https://community.fmca.com/topic/570-serious-problem-some-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/?tab=comments#comment-2686
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wolfe10
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11/04/19 01:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Allison 2500 downshift issue
Not familiar with the 2500.
But, on all their larger transmissions you can check for DIAGNOSTIC CODES from this shift pad.
See if this feature is available for your 2500.
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wolfe10
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11/01/19 06:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake fluid change?
I put changing brake fluid right up in the same category as injector flushing and the 3000 mile oil change. I view all three as nothing more than an add on money grab for the service writer.
Sorry, but if one is discussing a HEAVY vehicle with hydraulic brakes, that statement is dangerous.
Agree, hard to boil brake fluid in a PU, but different for a 20,000 pound plus motorhome with a toad!
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wolfe10
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10/26/19 04:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Transynd ??
If your unit came with Transynd it should not require changing unless you have some kind of transmission failure or it becomes contaminated.
And, I would suggest that if this is the OE fluid and therefore at least 12 years old, it is well worth changing (along with the filter).
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wolfe10
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10/22/19 09:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Transynd ??
Or just go to any Allison dealer. Their prices (at least in our area) are not out of line.
They sell it by the quart, gallon and 5 gallon pail. Also have the correct filter for your transmission.
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wolfe10
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10/21/19 02:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: transmission cooler
Also, you need to be able to not "OVER-COOL" in cooler temperatures.
Though the mechanics is a bit different, I installed a fuel cooler on the return line on my DP. Like ATF, there IS such as thing as fluid being too cool.
So, made a cover for the cooler that velcro's in place for winter driving.
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wolfe10
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10/20/19 03:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need new shocks Las Vegas area, any...
Installing shocks is NOT rocket science.
Others with the same chassis (8 outboard air bags/shocks I assume) can chime in on any unforeseen difficulties. Most installations are well within the capabilities of any shade tree mechanic with 3/4" breaker bar, 3/4" to 1/2" adapter and 1/2" drive socket. Yes, air tools makes it easier, but I have installed probably 20 sets of shocks with no air tools.
You might ask the manufacturer of the shock you choose for the name of a dealer near you.
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wolfe10
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10/14/19 01:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Road Report, Nogales to Zihuatanejo
\ A minute or so later I was stopped for going 80(mph).
OK, inquiring minds want to know--what were you driving and WHERE in Mexico at 80 MPH!?
BTW, targeting out of state vehicles is a well established policy in most countries/counties!
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wolfe10
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10/13/19 05:03pm |
RVing in Mexico and South America
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RE: Problem with autobrake on p30 or p32 Chevy chassis
Yes, Roger is a real treasure. The "go to" guy for any Autopark issue.
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wolfe10
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10/12/19 07:13am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Slide moving out
What kind of slide
Options
Power gear (usually a rack and pinion system)
electric Work gear drive
Hydraulic (HTH)
Swinteck or however it's spelled (Wavy track on sides of slide)
Accu-Slide (Cable cars)
OTHER
It will help to know what we need to fix.
YUP, need to know what system you have.
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wolfe10
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10/11/19 06:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help Switching to 40' Pusher
Slight correction-- Alpine brakes are all wheel HYDRAULIC over hydraulic disk brakes. Beginning in the 2001 model year 4 piston, fixed caliper disk brakes.
Agree- very good handling chassis.
Their ISL's were equipped with engine compression brakes. Many coaches with ISL's had exhaust brakes. The engine compression brake was an up-charge option.
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wolfe10
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10/09/19 04:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 50 amp coach on 30 amp power
Some of what happens may depend on how your 50A to 30A adapter/cord is wired. There are two choices.
It may be wired so that one "leg" is completely ignored. If wired this way one of your AC and possibly some of your outlets will not workIf both legs are wired together, the worst case is that you will trip the breaker at the pedestal. You might even be able to run both AC units simultaneously (as long as they don't start simultaneously) or run both of your heaters
I have never seen a 30 male to 50 female where the one hot on the 30 was only wired to ONE hot on the 50 amp side.
Said another way, a "proper" 30 to 50 always connects the single hot on the 30 amp male end to both hots on the 50 amp female end.
Would love to see a link to one wired any other way!
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wolfe10
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10/09/19 09:21am |
Tech Issues
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