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 > Your search for posts made by 'youracman' found 10 matches.

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RE: Adding 2nd AC to Class C

jdc1, I was thinking the same thing. We don't need it all the time...but are planning trips out west where it's HOT...and our 34 foot C will be HOT with that front-mounted AC unit....but installing a rear-section unit (as mentioned, in bedroom), and pluggin it in when needed, simplifies matters a ton. Hi Robert- I have not done this mod, but there were a couple of long threads over on irv2 concerning it. I can't seem to find them now, but IIRC, both guys ended up using a second, dedicated cord for the 2nd AC as suggested earlier. I too would have to go with external ceiling wiring but the metal raceway channel with a snap cover (sold by HD and others) could be screwed to the ceiling and would not look all that obtrusive, IMHO. Both the installs posted on irv2 used "local control" AC's ; i.e. no wall t'stat to complicate things and of course the AC's fit in the 14X14 hole just fine. You would almost certainly need to use a 50A pedestal; as I understand it, even if a 30A site has a 20A outlet, you are limited to 30A total. I also read a post or two where it was stated that new campground regulations allow only one cord to be connected from an RV to the pedestal, period ….. not good news, for sure. If that's true, one would have to turn their Class C into a 50A coach, basically, in order to add the needed 20A which could be done, but a lot of work and expense. Here is a link (Google) with a well-documented install where the guy plans to use a 2nd cord for the add'l AC. The most interesting thing I found was the nifty waterproof wall connector to bring the extra/new power into the coach. Good luck on the project, and safe travels
youracman 06/15/20 03:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cold in West Yellowstone...

Phil- Re how to determine that your tank heaters are working: FWIW, just thought I would pass along my 'sperience since I had to replace the heaters on my rig a couple of years ago (the OEM gray tank heater pad was a so-so install by the factory and was lifting around the edges plus the original owner had damage on the black tank due to a blowout and the service folks who installed his replacement black tank did a turibble, turrible job on that heater.) Our tanks are likely about the same size, so my data may be helpful. I installed Ultra Heat pads after a bad experience with a poorly made (cheaper) brand. WBGO uses (made in the USA) Ultra Heat ….. same as almost all RV manufacturers, I believe. Each of the 2 large pads draw about 5.5 amps and I also have an elbow heater which draws just under 1 amp. The large pads have a built in Tstat that turns on at 44F and off at 64F; the elbow heater has no Tstat …. it is constant on when powered up. I'd wager your current draws are in that "ballpark". For a pre-trip checkout one can use a clamp on DC ammeter (takes 2 people.) One person holds a zip lock bag of ice cubes on the "bulge" at each of the pads (that's where the Tstat is) and the other observes current flow when the stat kicks in. (I did this to verify operation after my installation.) Mfr says to have at least a couple of inches of fluid in the tanks to operate the heaters (probably more to prevent excessive Tstat cycling than anything else, I believe.) I only have these installed in case I get "caught" with a surprise cold front as we like Fall season travel the best. I carry my clamp-on meter along and would plan to look for 12 add'l amps off the coach batteries when the tank heater switch was thrown to verify the pads were drawing current …. but have never had to use it. Sounds like the OP has a built-in meter which would do the same thing ………… cool. BTW- The WBGO tech I talked to about the heaters said the rig should be good to about 20F if I opened the inside cabinet doors and turned on the tank heaters ………. but I overheard him talking to others around him when I asked that question and I believe his answer was just an educated guess. West Yellowstone campers would be a better source of knowledge, me thinks. :^) Stay healthy, and safe travels.
youracman 06/08/20 09:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Final accounting, 14 years with a Super C

To the OP: What a GREAT post. Thank you for taking the time.
youracman 05/30/20 07:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: tapping the top of awning to project it from the sun

My trailer has been parked under the brutal sun of the desert for 7 years. Shortly after I got it, I got some 6” wide Eternabond and put a layer on top of the awnings when rolled up. It’s flexible so it rolls up without a problem and is still flawless after 7 years. No worries about having to install and remove temporary covers. Amazing! I use EB tape on the roof for flat seams; love the stuff. Your use on the awning is an interesting application (I think you are a trailblazer where EB is concerned.) SOoooo .... it works when parked for 7 years; have you had it out on the road at highway speeds much? Wondering about headwinds or maybe worse, blustery side winds if I were to apply it to the awning (and the slide out cover) on my rig. On second thought, I remember lots of BIG TIME spring winds (like 80 MPH) when I lived in the Mohave desert (most deserts are like that I believe) ..... so maybe "no sweat"? I guess I would plan on a "dust/dirt" line at the sticky edge of the EB tape, but I could live with that. Thanks for your post. Velly intellesting reading, for sure. Be safe ...................
youracman 05/21/20 04:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacement for Onan 4000

Won't cut it, Cody. Your AC + converter will require approx 2000-2200 watts, steady state. Note that this genny will deliver 1600 watts steady state; not 2000. Suggest you not give up on the Onan just yet and, instead, find someone who will troubleshoot it rather than throw parts at it. The fuel pump/filter often are culprits; I actually had to replace the magneto in mine (rare problem) and it has been running fine for 4 years since. Others will have advice as well......there are a LOT of satisfied owners out there and many have a ton of expertise as well. Good luck on the fix.
youracman 04/01/20 11:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Forest River Lexington tire issue

Just get Set Of These and have them installed and all your problems will be solved. Long lasting,mine have been over 10 years,and it will make your tire pressure checking fast and easy. Excellent advice. I got mine at a different source, but your best price is here: I haven't had mine installed but a couple of years now, but zero trouble; and I can check my tires without even kneeling down! They will come with stabilizers for the long (inboard) dual so no worry about about wobble/vibration when adding TPMS sensors onto the end of the stem. Les Schwab charged me about $80 to install IIRC. They said it is fast/simple to do because they only have to "break the bead" to install...... no need to demount the tire from the rim. A shop that does lots of truck tires is the place to go IMHO. I do use Discount Tire for my car(s) but for sure not my MH. For the inner dual at least, it is not usually possible to spin balance because of the length of the stem; I installed Centramatics at the rear, but there are other options, of course. Good luck with the fix, and safe travels to ya.
youracman 01/28/20 07:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dually Valve Stems

One route to go on getting curved stems installed: I got mine here: If you call them at 714-642-3646 they will know the exact curvature you need etc and will ship them to your door. You may save a few bucks shopping around but this was sure handy for me. The hardware I got included the rubber inserts to stabilize the longer stem so no worry with installing a tire pressure monitor sensor at that location. As enblethen posted, any truck tire shop will install them. I used Les Schwab............. about $85 IIRC. One of the downsides: The inside dual will have a valve stem that is too long for spin balancing. I just installed Centramatics on the rears but you could have the tire shop use beads. Good luck with the upgrade...... and save travels to ya. You will be very happy with the results.
youracman 01/14/20 09:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winterization issues

It's a long shot, but on my 2007 WBGO Outlook, the 3-way winterizing valve connected to the pump, the FW tank and the anti freeze suction hose was plumbed wrong ................ from the factory! The PO lived in So Cal and had never winterized it so the problem was just sitting there waiting to surprise me years later. Yup! Murphy lives! lol If your rig has been winterized OK in the past, that would not be the problem, obviously. Good times and safe travels.
youracman 11/03/19 11:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!

I always had a feeling that the minute movement (moving a few thousandths of an inch fore and aft) in the shear plane there at the pin connection was not a good thing. I installed a hefty anti-rattle device thinking that it might just eliminate movement/jiggling in that area and it appears to have done that. Probably overkill and not needed but it gives me a bit of a "warm fuzzy" feeling. Glad it ended OK for you ..... except for the damage to the MH, that is. Thanks for the heads up. Good times and safe travels.
youracman 10/20/19 11:02pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Suspension upgrade disappointment.

I think it is better and probably needed done but I don't think it can be even better until the play is taken out of the wheel and no one has addressed that. Have already spent around 5K and really don't want to spend another $1000 or more. Comments? I sure agree re the steering wheel play. My 12-yr-old rig has several after-mkt "handling upgrades" much like yours (exceptions: yours has a track bar; mine doesn't and I have adjustable bushings that got me 5 degrees positive caster dunno if you have that mod.) Each mod gave me noticeable improvement but there is still steering wheel play (and the Denver medium duty Ford truck dealer told me that I did not have appreciable wear in any of the steering components when they aligned tie rod ends etc are not the culprit.) So my rig goes reasonably nice and straight down the road when there is smooth pavement with not a lot of crown, very little wind and no 18 wheelers around (my 220 inch wheelbase is a plus)...... so I (don't, but I can) drive it just fine with only my index finger wrapped around the steering wheel BUT when a little correction is needed, I have to move the steering wheel about 2 or 3 inches before anything much really happens. I believe that is what you are calling "steering wheel play"..... and I am thinking it is really common in Class C's with the medium duty truck chassis; e.g. Ford E450. comment: I have been told that this is inherent in "recirculating ball" steering boxes and it is almost non-existent with rack and pinion designs. The recirculating ball boxes are said to be stronger than other designs (hence used on med duty trucks and off-road vehicles a lot.) "Redhead" in WA state "blueprints" all kinds of steering boxes by hand-fitting different components into them so that the slack is nearly eliminated. I emailed them to see if they had "off the shelf" boxes available for an E450 and they do I would have to send mine to them or drive my rig to their plant and they would complete the work in one day (IIRC the cost was about $350 or so.....for the box, that is.) Neither approach will work for me so I will put up with the play. Good times and safe travels to ya.
youracman 10/04/19 10:35pm Class C Motorhomes
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