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 > Your search for posts made by 'youracman' found 11 matches.

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RE: Anyone have the new Ford 7.3L V8?

In 2021 is there a choice regarding engines ? Can it be ordered either way v10 or v8 ? Bob, from my reading on several forums, I "believe" some of the early 2021s still had the Triton V-10 (old stock) but when they are gone (and they are probably all "gone" right now) I get the idea that the Ford cutaway chassis will be "Godzilla" powered only ...... dunno about the F-53. Others more knowledgeable will hopefully chime in. Best.............
youracman 04/15/21 07:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Anyone have the new Ford 7.3L V8?

There are about a dozen posts here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/new-7-3-ford-gas-519454.html You will find a lot more if you just Google up "Ford 7.3 gas motorhome" or other terminology. Hope that helps. There was a problem early on (with some installations) involving inadequate air flow in the area of the spark plug wires IIRC. It's been resolved by now (by most all the MH manufacturers) I am sure. I have the venerable V-10 and it is amazing IMHO, but I would rather have the new one you are getting ...... more power, less noise and just a whisker better fuel economy (maybe.) Just my $.02 Safe travels to ya.
youracman 04/15/21 04:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: E-450 16" tire valve size?

I had the Borg metal stems installed on mine. The first firm I tried (a wholesaler) was not sure what the "bend angle" should be for my wheels (Alcoa) and they suggested I call the retailer in the link below. I did that and they knew exactly what I needed ..... including the rubber stabilizers. I paid Les Schwab about $65 to install the hardware. As you probably know, the inside dual cannot be spin balanced with the super long stem installed.....beads can be used but I used "Centramatics" instead. Many say the duals don't even need to be balanced so YMMV. I love being able to check the pressure, add air or install my TPMS sensors without even getting down on one knee. Well worth the $ IMHO. You might want to give these folks a call. They will know what you need. https://www.shinyrv.com Best .......... and be safe.
youracman 03/24/21 08:34am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How long to bring slide in and drive off?

Mine fully retracts in well under a minute. It has done that every time the retract button has been pushed...... for 14 years; but the day is surely coming when it won't retract. There is a method to manually retract it, but those who have posted about that procedure say it is a long, drawn-out process. If you are not totally averse to going with a toad you might want to reconsider it. Towing a small vehicle 4-down is a LOT less trouble than many think it is ..... a piece of cake, actually. Most of us can hook up and "double-check our checklist" in 15 minutes or so. Unhooking takes even less time. Best. Be safe.
youracman 03/22/21 05:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: TPMS for the alcoa wheels

On mine, Bob.... it is a mix (typical), i.e., a steel wheel inboard and an Alcoa outboard. Both have very little clearance over the hub and are, in fact, a bit of a tussle to get off. The lug nuts are the "built-in-washer" type.....not conical and they only call out 140 ft-lb of torque .... stamped on the lug nuts. That is the config for 16" wheels, dunno about larger ones. I believe the GVWR is the same for all steel as for the Alcoa-wheeled rigs with 16" wheels.....if that's germane.
youracman 09/11/20 07:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: TPMS for the alcoa wheels

Aren’t most all aftermarket wheels lug centric , including Alcoa ? If that’s the case , which i think it is, then that would explain why they are sensitive to being overloaded ? The lugs would center and carry the weight instead of the hub , like an OEM steel wheel. If that’s the case then it’s imperative to weigh your rig.
youracman 09/11/20 07:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: TPMS for the alcoa wheels

Just my 'sperience, Hank: I ordered solid (chrome plated brass, I believe) "Dually" valve stems from here: https://www.shinyrv.com/product-category/dually-valve-stems/ They have a "CONTACT" button on their site. I tried to go to the main supplier for Dually Stems, but they wanted to know what angle I needed. I didn't have a clue, so I contacted the folks at "Always Shiny" and they knew exactly what I needed. IIRC the price back then was $115 with free shipping. I had them installed on the duals at Les Schwab ..... for about $85 (they said an easy job cuz all they have to do is "break the bead" to install....no tire dismount needed.) Know that it is nigh impossible to spin balance the inside dual with the 7-inch long valve stem so I installed "Centramatics" ....... I now doubt that was needed as some folks do not balance the rears at all; probably could just spin balance the outer dually and call it a done deal. The hardware from Always Shiny included a rubber "stabilizer" that goes in one of the "hand holes" on the Alcoa rim to stabilize the long inside stem. I wasn't thrilled with the fit on those stabilizers, but they have never moved.....so they work. I use a TST system with the cap sensors. Never had a problem since installing this setup about 3 years ago. One nice feature: I can check the pressure or air up any tire without even getting down on one knee...... so I am well satisfied. I personally like the cap sensors better than the flow through type (I've used both) however it is a bear to service the cap sensors with new batteries, and O-rings (the flow throughs are easier) ..... but I go ahead and do it each winter for the upcoming travel season. I didn't need to do anything to the steer tires to use the TST cap sensors. A little tight, but not real difficult to install or remove the sensors. I did modify my sensors by removing the "theft prevention' feature. Simplifies things, IMHO. Hopes this helps. As always, YMMV. Stay safe.
youracman 09/11/20 04:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Adding 2nd AC to Class C

jdc1, I was thinking the same thing. We don't need it all the time...but are planning trips out west where it's HOT...and our 34 foot C will be HOT with that front-mounted AC unit....but installing a rear-section unit (as mentioned, in bedroom), and pluggin it in when needed, simplifies matters a ton. Hi Robert- I have not done this mod, but there were a couple of long threads over on irv2 concerning it. I can't seem to find them now, but IIRC, both guys ended up using a second, dedicated cord for the 2nd AC as suggested earlier. I too would have to go with external ceiling wiring but the metal raceway channel with a snap cover (sold by HD and others) could be screwed to the ceiling and would not look all that obtrusive, IMHO. Both the installs posted on irv2 used "local control" AC's ; i.e. no wall t'stat to complicate things and of course the AC's fit in the 14X14 hole just fine. You would almost certainly need to use a 50A pedestal; as I understand it, even if a 30A site has a 20A outlet, you are limited to 30A total. I also read a post or two where it was stated that new campground regulations allow only one cord to be connected from an RV to the pedestal, period ….. not good news, for sure. If that's true, one would have to turn their Class C into a 50A coach, basically, in order to add the needed 20A which could be done, but a lot of work and expense. Here is a link (Google) with a well-documented install where the guy plans to use a 2nd cord for the add'l AC. The most interesting thing I found was the nifty waterproof wall connector to bring the extra/new power into the coach.https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=V9_nXsy3H5DXtAarlafIAQ&q=add+2nd+ac+to+rv&oq=add+2nd+ac+to+&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQARgAMgIIADICCAAyBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB46BQgAEIMBOgUIABCxAzoECAAQClDqHVjZTGDhZGgAcAB4AIABV4gB0AeSAQIxNJgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab#kpvalbx=_gO_nXvrpHNWwtAbjgbSQAg27 Good luck on the project, and safe travels
youracman 06/15/20 03:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cold in West Yellowstone...

Phil- Re how to determine that your tank heaters are working: FWIW, just thought I would pass along my 'sperience since I had to replace the heaters on my rig a couple of years ago (the OEM gray tank heater pad was a so-so install by the factory and was lifting around the edges plus the original owner had damage on the black tank due to a blowout and the service folks who installed his replacement black tank did a turibble, turrible job on that heater.) Our tanks are likely about the same size, so my data may be helpful. I installed Ultra Heat pads after a bad experience with a poorly made (cheaper) brand. WBGO uses (made in the USA) Ultra Heat ….. same as almost all RV manufacturers, I believe. Each of the 2 large pads draw about 5.5 amps and I also have an elbow heater which draws just under 1 amp. The large pads have a built in Tstat that turns on at 44F and off at 64F; the elbow heater has no Tstat …. it is constant on when powered up. I'd wager your current draws are in that "ballpark". For a pre-trip checkout one can use a clamp on DC ammeter (takes 2 people.) One person holds a zip lock bag of ice cubes on the "bulge" at each of the pads (that's where the Tstat is) and the other observes current flow when the stat kicks in. (I did this to verify operation after my installation.) Mfr says to have at least a couple of inches of fluid in the tanks to operate the heaters (probably more to prevent excessive Tstat cycling than anything else, I believe.) I only have these installed in case I get "caught" with a surprise cold front as we like Fall season travel the best. I carry my clamp-on meter along and would plan to look for 12 add'l amps off the coach batteries when the tank heater switch was thrown to verify the pads were drawing current …. but have never had to use it. Sounds like the OP has a built-in meter which would do the same thing ………… cool. BTW- The WBGO tech I talked to about the heaters said the rig should be good to about 20F if I opened the inside cabinet doors and turned on the tank heaters ………. but I overheard him talking to others around him when I asked that question and I believe his answer was just an educated guess. West Yellowstone campers would be a better source of knowledge, me thinks. :^) Stay healthy, and safe travels.
youracman 06/08/20 09:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Final accounting, 14 years with a Super C

To the OP: What a GREAT post. Thank you for taking the time.
youracman 05/30/20 07:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: tapping the top of awning to project it from the sun

My trailer has been parked under the brutal sun of the desert for 7 years. Shortly after I got it, I got some 6” wide Eternabond and put a layer on top of the awnings when rolled up. It’s flexible so it rolls up without a problem and is still flawless after 7 years. No worries about having to install and remove temporary covers. Amazing! I use EB tape on the roof for flat seams; love the stuff. Your use on the awning is an interesting application (I think you are a trailblazer where EB is concerned.) SOoooo .... it works when parked for 7 years; have you had it out on the road at highway speeds much? Wondering about headwinds or maybe worse, blustery side winds if I were to apply it to the awning (and the slide out cover) on my rig. On second thought, I remember lots of BIG TIME spring winds (like 80 MPH) when I lived in the Mohave desert (most deserts are like that I believe) ..... so maybe "no sweat"? I guess I would plan on a "dust/dirt" line at the sticky edge of the EB tape, but I could live with that. Thanks for your post. Velly intellesting reading, for sure. Be safe ...................
youracman 05/21/20 04:49pm Class C Motorhomes
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