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 > Your search for posts made by 'youracman' found 21 matches.

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RE: Forest River Lexington tire issue

Just get Set Of These and have them installed and all your problems will be solved. Long lasting,mine have been over 10 years,and it will make your tire pressure checking fast and easy. Excellent advice. I got mine at a different source, but your best price is here: yourtireshopsupply.com I haven't had mine installed but a couple of years now, but zero trouble; and I can check my tires without even kneeling down! They will come with stabilizers for the long (inboard) dual so no worry about about wobble/vibration when adding TPMS sensors onto the end of the stem. Les Schwab charged me about $80 to install IIRC. They said it is fast/simple to do because they only have to "break the bead" to install...... no need to demount the tire from the rim. A shop that does lots of truck tires is the place to go IMHO. I do use Discount Tire for my car(s) but for sure not my MH. For the inner dual at least, it is not usually possible to spin balance because of the length of the stem; I installed Centramatics at the rear, but there are other options, of course. Good luck with the fix, and safe travels to ya.
youracman 01/28/20 07:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dually Valve Stems

One route to go on getting curved stems installed: I got mine here: https://www.shinyrv.com/product/dually-valve-stems-for-motorhomes-with-alcoa-wheels-2-hand-hole-dl4ac/ If you call them at 714-642-3646 they will know the exact curvature you need etc and will ship them to your door. You may save a few bucks shopping around but this was sure handy for me. The hardware I got included the rubber inserts to stabilize the longer stem so no worry with installing a tire pressure monitor sensor at that location. As enblethen posted, any truck tire shop will install them. I used Les Schwab............. about $85 IIRC. One of the downsides: The inside dual will have a valve stem that is too long for spin balancing. I just installed Centramatics on the rears but you could have the tire shop use beads. Good luck with the upgrade...... and save travels to ya. You will be very happy with the results.
youracman 01/14/20 09:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winterization issues

It's a long shot, but on my 2007 WBGO Outlook, the 3-way winterizing valve connected to the pump, the FW tank and the anti freeze suction hose was plumbed wrong ................ from the factory! The PO lived in So Cal and had never winterized it so the problem was just sitting there waiting to surprise me years later. Yup! Murphy lives! lol If your rig has been winterized OK in the past, that would not be the problem, obviously. Good times and safe travels.
youracman 11/03/19 11:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!

I always had a feeling that the minute movement (moving a few thousandths of an inch fore and aft) in the shear plane there at the pin connection was not a good thing. I installed a hefty anti-rattle device thinking that it might just eliminate movement/jiggling in that area and it appears to have done that. Probably overkill and not needed but it gives me a bit of a "warm fuzzy" feeling. https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti-Rattle/Malone/MPG908.html Glad it ended OK for you ..... except for the damage to the MH, that is. Thanks for the heads up. Good times and safe travels.
youracman 10/20/19 11:02pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Suspension upgrade disappointment.

I think it is better and probably needed done but I don't think it can be even better until the play is taken out of the wheel and no one has addressed that. Have already spent around 5K and really don't want to spend another $1000 or more. Comments? I sure agree re the steering wheel play. My 12-yr-old rig has several after-mkt "handling upgrades" much like yours (exceptions: yours has a track bar; mine doesn't and I have adjustable bushings that got me 5 degrees positive caster dunno if you have that mod.) Each mod gave me noticeable improvement but there is still steering wheel play (and the Denver medium duty Ford truck dealer told me that I did not have appreciable wear in any of the steering components when they aligned it....so tie rod ends etc are not the culprit.) So my rig goes reasonably nice and straight down the road when there is smooth pavement with not a lot of crown, very little wind and no 18 wheelers around (my 220 inch wheelbase is a plus)...... so I (don't, but I can) drive it just fine with only my index finger wrapped around the steering wheel BUT when a little correction is needed, I have to move the steering wheel about 2 or 3 inches before anything much really happens. I believe that is what you are calling "steering wheel play"..... and I am thinking it is really common in Class C's with the medium duty truck chassis; e.g. Ford E450. FINALLY....my comment: I have been told that this is inherent in "recirculating ball" steering boxes and it is almost non-existent with rack and pinion designs. The recirculating ball boxes are said to be stronger than other designs (hence used on med duty trucks and off-road vehicles a lot.) "Redhead" in WA state "blueprints" all kinds of steering boxes by hand-fitting different components into them so that the slack is nearly eliminated. I emailed them to see if they had "off the shelf" boxes available for an E450 and they do not.....so I would have to send mine to them or drive my rig to their plant and they would complete the work in one day (IIRC the cost was about $350 or so.....for the box, that is.) Neither approach will work for me so I will put up with the play. Good times and safe travels to ya.
youracman 10/04/19 10:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Electric steps for RV that did not come with them

Hey Beaver- I found the link to the dwgs for various Kwikee steps ..... I'll try to post the link. https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/exterior/kwikee_svc_manual.pdf Best---- ed s
youracman 07/29/19 10:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Electric steps for RV that did not come with them

We recently went from a Class A to our current Class C. 2019 Coachmen Leprechaun on a Ford E450 frame. It did not come from the factory with electric steps which we really liked in the Class A. I looked on line and could only find replacement electric steps so I wanted to know if anyone has installed electric steps on their Class C that did not come from the factory with them? If so who sells them? Thanks! I note your style coach has a body "drop down" in the area where the electric steps are on a lot of other Class C's. Evidently this is to make that first step up into the coach low enough so the owners can navigate it? You are wise to ensure this is "doable" and to request contact with someone who has done it, IMHO. If the normal "Kwikee" steps (like mine) have to be shimmed down to clear that "body drop down" ..... lack of sufficient ground clearance in the stored position might "quash the deal". Hope not. Mine is a single-tread Kwikee (Series 28) and the stored height measurement is just under 6 inches. I do see a Series 31 in my PDF that has a stored height of just 4-1/4 inches....probably your best bet. If you get that far along, I'll try to email you a copy of that PDF (forget how I came by it.) Good luck with the "hoped for" mod ...... and safe travels.
youracman 07/29/19 10:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Any Denver area C owners? Alignments???

I live in far east Denver. I had my 31 ft Class C aligned at Rush (Medium Duty) Ford Truck Center. I asked in advance if I could bring my own Ingalls adjustable bushings along for installation so I could be assured of 5 degrees positive caster. They said that would be fine...... they installed them, and I got my 5 degrees (it helped.) The alignment guy came up to the counter when I picked it up so I could talk to him about how it all went! Not inexpensive; as I recall about $239 a few years ago ..... more now, no doubt. You'll need an appt. I always take my toad and leave the coach. They like that, cuz ya never know how long it will take ..... or what they might run into. I have never had to leave it overnight yet. So far I have used them for any chassis work that is beyond my capability. I recently installed new front brakes with my grandson's help and just didn't like the way they "felt". They took it for a l-o-n-g test drive after looking at my install and said the brakes were great.....not to worry. $80 Not cheap (who is, really?) but they are about the only game in town for most things for an RV with an E450 chassis. I am happy with them overall. Good luck, and safe travels.
youracman 07/16/19 09:27pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: well, found the smell

navegator We seldom see rabbits , they must be tasty . Scientific name for coyotes: Eatamus Anythingamus. A rancher friend of mine always said "Never give a coyote an even break." Ranchers far and wide don't like 'em much. :^)
youracman 06/14/19 06:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Class C with 6 speed transmission

My old'99 Ford F53 Class A chassis with the V 10 and 4 speed trans was doing about 2600 RPM at 60 mph in overdrive. What can I expect from a Class C ,E 450 6 or 5 speed at 60? Here's at least one data point for ya Johnny- My rig: 2007 31ft WGO Class C on a 2006 Ford E450 chassis w/5-speed At 60 MPH: Approx 2200 RPM
youracman 06/12/19 07:08pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: $$$ to maintain and repair?

No luck at any salvage yards. E-mail from Winnebago - do not have the encoders (actuators) and cannot get them nor manufacture them. Repair facility in discussions with Lippert was advised to by-pass the encoders and wire the motors directly with new switches for each motor. Be interesting to hear what others have to say. Intuition tells me that'll work. I would like to be observing an ammeter on each motor right there at your new double switch panel......just for grins. Does seem like if one motor got overloaded the Hall Effect device would shut it down (like it does when you hit the stops) and you could regroup? Interesting for sure. Once the mod is done, seems like you could just stop the slide travel at several intervals and measure the travel on each side.......to get to know the system and how to "drive it with the switches" so to speak. Sure hope you post back on this fix. Good possibility many of us will be in a like position sooner or later and you will be plowing new ground for sure. Best.............
youracman 06/09/19 10:45pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: $$$ to maintain and repair?

I have a 2004 Winnebago - like new inside and out. My only problem just happened with the slideout not working. Had to crank it in by hand. Repair company diagnosed the problem and cannot get the parts as they are now no longer making them. The failed parts are the actuators to both motors. Getting parts is the main problem with older units - although I do not think 15 years should be so obsolete that companies no longer make parts that may fail. Read your post and developed a "sinking feeling", tobydad. Just for drill, I looked up the motor/slideout encoder assembly for my 2007 Kwikee>Power Gear> now Lippert, I believe ........... and the sources I found said "No longer available" or "Obsolete" Perhaps as a last resort, you could try Visone's RV salvage? Like your experience over the previous 15 years, my slideout has never given trouble of any kind, but maybe it's time to think about selling the old girl......hand cranking won't get it for me. Good luck and safe travels.
youracman 06/03/19 04:07pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: $$$ to maintain and repair?

We have a 2003 30 ft. Winnebago Class C with 35000 miles. We like it and it currently serves our needs. Right now it's in a shop getting a whole list of things done to fix or prevent more problems. The estimate is $2,400 to $3000. I'm not shocked at all but how much would you spend to service and repair your present unit. If we traded we would downsize but would just have to find another 5 years old or more and with some miles. In reading several forums over about 5 years, I have read where some "seasoned" owners have stated they planned for $3500 per year repair/maintenance expenses with their DP's; one guy had owned both and stated his gas Class A ran about 1/2 that. They did their own routine maintenance. I do mostly all my own work on my Class C and it runs a bit less than than their estimates for Class A's. I do note that some folks say there seems to be a maintenance "spike" at about 10 years of age...... that squares with my experience; e.g. new rooftop AC at 10 years (self installed) and new front brakes at 11 years and 50K miles (self installed.) I note your coach is w/o slide so that will work in your favor; although in 12 years my only slide expense has been for dry lube spray cans (which I use religiously) and a new slide topper. I consider myself lucky in the slide department. :^) Obviously one can estimate the average, but the amount of + or - around the mean will be dependent on a lot of factors (and it will probably be a pretty big number.) Then there's the rate of depreciation........ ouch. Safe travels..............
youracman 05/28/19 03:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Intermittent failure to start.

Almost no Class C's are set up from the factory to charge the chassis battery via shore power. A LOT of owners install a charger just for that reason. Google up "TRIK-L-START" to view an example. I installed that one and it was a breeze. There are others available. It could be that your battery is faulty, but not likely ..... as new as it is. To rule that out, you may want to take your battery out of the rig and have a local parts house give it a load test. They do that for free. Another option is to install a chassis battery disconnect ..... for when you are not going to use the coach for a few days (or for winter storage.) Amazon has at least a couple of styles. I will try to attach a pic of mine .... (may end up with just a link.) I open that switch just as religiously as I shut off the "salesman's" switch for the coach batteries. Never any "surprises" with that protocol. lol Good luck with your fix ...... and safe travels. https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPVZNDABfllStoPEY--AFTPvv4ZrxJkfFAtz95U/photo/AF1QipPmhoUdl-5d_7fwea8WxzGal1Oy94wvXcVjiS-T
youracman 04/19/19 08:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Valve stems

I got mine from these folks: https://www.shinyrv.com/product/dually-valve-stems-for-motorhomes-with-alcoa-wheels-2-hand-hole-dl4ac/ You might want to check with them. I got dually valves for my Alcoas there. Hit "Contact" on the site above and their phone number will be on the left side of the page. Easy to talk to and they will know what you need. I called them before I ordered my "Dually" stems to make sure I was ordering the right stuff ............. and everything fit right up. Safe travels
youracman 04/13/19 06:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Slide Out!

On our 06, the slides operate off the single chassis battery, not the 2 coach batteries. My guess is that it is easier to do the safety interlocks of the one 12v electrical system. I think they recommend having the engine running just to prevent running the chassis battery down and to make sure the slideout motors get adequate voltage power. On ours, the slides work without the engine running, but a bit faster with the engine running. They will not work, if the parking brake is not set. Ken ^^^^^^^^^^^ X2 ^^^^^^^^^^^ My Outlook Manual says (in all caps) that they recommend that you keep the engine running so as to provide maximum power. The slide will go in or out just fine on the coach/house batteries but you can actually hear the motors run faster with the Ford engine idling. Safe travels............
youracman 03/27/19 07:38pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: good disconnect to use for 12v battery

I am gonna "assume" you mean for the chassis battery. I installed one I got from Amazon about 3 years ago. Seems to do the trick for me and was a snap to install. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Vehicle-Negative/dp/B07N1FQDFH/ref=sr_1_9?crid=359FCSP3R8W4I&keywords=battery+disconnect+switch+top+post&qid=1553217726&s=gateway&sprefix=Battery+discon%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-9 I agree that a Blue Sea switch would be the "Gold Standard" but I couldn't see an easy way to mount it under the hood. The link below is my first attempt to include a pic in a post on this forum. Maybe it will work. https://i.imgur.com/8YRIw75l.jpg Good luck with your project. As others have mentioned, it "could" save you the price of a battery; the parasitic loads on my rig are pretty sizable. Note: I edited this post. I had the wrong Amazon link posted for the switch. I had to have one that had the "knife" switch in a horizontal configuration.....not a vertical configuration. The link should be correct now.....hopefully. My bad, as they say.
youracman 03/21/19 07:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Onan 4000 wont start

Ooops! Should say ".....whilst cranking it" Getting late....past my bedtime. lol ed s
youracman 03/06/19 10:52pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Onan 4000 wont start

Well fudge me.....changed spark plug, oil, and air filter. Nada. Trouble code 36. All leads and voltages are solid. Cmon guys I need some ideas The only time my 4K Onan cranked but refused to start, it turned out to be the magneto. I discovered the bad mag by holding the plug against the Onan body (cooling fins IIRC) whilst it ..... no spark. A new mag assembly and it has run fine ever since. But then mine is 12 years old; has approx 500 hours on it and had lived down near the Calif beach for a several years before I bought it (the OEM mag turned out to be very corroded.) Even though your Onan is almost new by comparison, I would VERIFY it has spark. If it passes the spark test, at least you know you probably need to concentrate on fuel delivery (and not just to the carb inlet....to the cylinder.) Just my $.02 Good luck......know it is frustrating.
youracman 03/06/19 10:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Onan 4000 wont start

We had an issue with our brand new Onan in our 2009 Class C. Ours didn't even have 10 hours on it. My wife fired up the Generator while I was driving. She tried to heat something in the microwave for 1 minute, but the generator quit after 30 seconds or so. Restarted it and it quit again shortly after start up. Then it never fired up. The error code, which I do not remember, basically translated to "have generator serviced". It turned out to be a fuel pump that the dealer replaced under warranty. I would contact Cummins and find out what the warranty of the Generator is. It maybe more than 1 year as previously mentioned. They should also be able to help troubleshoot over the phone or email. Or at the very least find the nearest authorized repair facility. -Michael Good example of an "early failure part" the OP asked for, Michael. Wow! 10 hours! He apparently removed the fuel line from the carb and verified fuel flow though, as he stated that his fuel pump was working. 'Twill be "velly intellesting" to find out what the cause of his failure was. Hope he reports back. These Onans can drive ya nuts at times. Best......ed s
youracman 02/22/19 02:10pm Class C Motorhomes
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