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 > How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Eric Hysteric

Hildesheim

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Posted: 12/29/17 04:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I hope you had good christmas days! Look what i found.
(Chrysler E-Fiche Service Parts Catalog)

The work is going on. Yesterday i mounted my new 16 wheels. The tiresize is 225/75 R16 C.
Sandblasted and powder-coated in the color RAL 1013.

[image]


'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 12/29/17 08:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Love the find! Too bad it doesn't go back to '75.

I did the same thing, switched to 16" and went with BF Goodrich Commercial All-Weather TA II, same color powder coating too....yes, that wheel/tire combo is balanced!

The hubcaps I got very lucky, found a full set of four on eBay...only needed two, but the price was better than other auctions.

[image]


Fred
Retired Army Guy
1976 Monaco Winchester
22.5' Class C

Eric Hysteric

Hildesheim

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Posted: 12/30/17 02:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Very very nice hubcups.

Eric Hysteric

Hildesheim

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Posted: 01/05/18 05:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

New question :-) How can i remove the windshield wipers. Simply pull??? It sits very tight


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TreeSeeker

San Diego

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Posted: 01/05/18 12:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Eric,

See the tiny tab at the top of your red circle? Pry that up with a screwdriver. It only moves about 1/8 inch. This releases the wiper latch. Then spray some PB Blaster or WD40 around the base as best as you can (the wiper post is bare steel so it does rust). Then pull the wiper blade off. You might have to pry it some.

You might want to wire brush and grease the post before you put the wiper back on.

Griff in Fairbanks

AK

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Posted: 01/05/18 02:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TreeSeeker wrote:

Eric,

See the tiny tab at the top of your red circle? Pry that up with a screwdriver. It only moves about 1/8 inch. This releases the wiper latch. Then spray some PB Blaster or WD40 around the base as best as you can (the wiper post is bare steel so it does rust). Then pull the wiper blade off. You might have to pry it some.

You might want to wire brush and grease the post before you put the wiper back on.

Your red circle crosses the bottom edge of the tab, sitting in the slot between the raised ridges molded into the wiper arm mount.

The tab is part of a flat metal locking plate, bent to a right angle to the plate. The plate has a curved keyhole slot that fits into a groove on the wiper mechanism shaft, to lock the wiper arm on the shaft. (You can't see the locking plate unless you look closely and carefully.)

The wiper arm keeps the locking plate engaged in the slot when the arm is in its normal position. So, you have to pivot the arm, lifting the blade away from the windshield, before you can use the tab to pivot the locking plate to the unlocked position.

(The locking plate will also hold the arm in the raised position when the plate is in the unlocked position ... this is how people sometimes keep the wiper blades from freezing to the windshield when their vehicle is parked in rainy/snowy freezing temperatures.)

It's helpful to mark a line across the wiper arm mount and mechanism shaft so you get the arm back into the same position. (Or as a reference if you want to shift the blade's 'parked' place.) I tend to use a silver fine-tipped marking pen for the line.

There's serrations on the shaft and inside the mount. These prevent the shaft from rotating inside the mount, forcing the arm to move/rotate with the shaft instead of slipping.

In addition to rust, the pot metal of the wiper arm will sometimes seize to the shaft. A little grease is good after wire-brushing the shaft. Anti-seize compound, if you have it, is better.

The windshield washer hose will create a bit of a hassle. There's enough slack to get the wiper arm off the shaft. If you want to completely remove the arm, you'll need to disconnect the hose.

The hose may be brittle due to age and sunlight so it may break. Be prepared to splice or replace the hose. There's hose-splice fittings available. I prefer to replace the hose if it's old, brittle, or breaks.


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A


Griff in Fairbanks

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Posted: 01/05/18 02:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

P.S. Good, clear, close-up picture. That's very helpful for helping you.

Eric Hysteric

Hildesheim

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Posted: 01/06/18 03:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you for help and compliments ;-) I'll spray wd40 and let it 1 night absorb. No violence. Now there is no fun working outside, so i optimize electric, cables and eliminate improvisations of the preowner.

Griff in Fairbanks

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Posted: 01/06/18 03:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Eric Hysteric wrote:

Thank you for help and compliments ;-) I'll spray wd40 and let it 1 night absorb. No violence. Now there is no fun working outside, so i optimize electric, cables and eliminate improvisations of the preowner.

There's a formal name for what you're doing ... especially in terms of "improvisions." The process is called "unf'ing" an older, used vehicle. (I've been doing it for 39 years.)

Eric Hysteric

Hildesheim

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Posted: 01/09/18 06:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:


The process is called "unf'ing" an older, used vehicle.

Thanks for the important insider technical english word Griff :-)
Yesterday i removed the 40 years old Triad-Utrad TU-500-2 converter charger and installed the more modern Schaudt i bought used for a symbolic price. It's so small and light compared to the Triad-Utrad.
I need two arms to lift the old up but only two fingers for the new one :-)

[image]

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