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 > How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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DRTDEVL

Las Cruces, NM

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Posted: 06/12/18 07:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

eyeteeth wrote:

Been real busy... don't get back here much currently... Do you still need pics? information? I can possibly help once we get the old girl back home.


Yup. I've been busy myself with other ventures (plus I might have scored a good rooftop air on the cheap in need of capacitors). The dash air is something I want to accomplish within the next few months, if possible.


Resurrecting an inherited 1980 Minnie Winnie 20RG from the dead after sitting since 1998..


eyeteeth

SW Michigan

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Posted: 06/12/18 07:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok... once I get her back home... most likely later this week/weekend... we can touch base and I'll 'show you what I got'. Mine isn't functioning, but its complete. Haven't used it since we acquired the RV. Just the roof Air.

(Which is why it isn't 'home'... sitting at a shop for the Genset). I just didn't have the time, resources, or inkling to try and tackle it myself. Two months later... and the shop is still scavenging for parts)

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 06/13/18 11:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I spent the better part of the day under the rear of the Monaco, cleaning the Dana 70. It took almost an entire spray bottle of Zep Degreaser to get all of the built up crud off of it, but I got it done. Yet another item that had never been serviced. The orange paint mark was still on the fill plug, and the steel 41-10 4.10 axle tag was still in place. I even found the Build Date & BOM number right where they were supposed to be. The axle was built Tuesday, June 17th, 1975.

When I popped the diff cover, that familiar stench of old, original fluid hit my nose. It's a smell I first experienced in October of 2000, when I had my 1972 Suburban diff serviced....it had never been changed either. My buddy, who owned a repair shop cursed me, because his shop stank for three days.

I also lubed the front suspension....every single fitting needed grease. You could actually see the front of the rig lift a little bit, as I was adding grease to the ball joints.

So far, all the build dates are jiving with my Bill of Lading paperwork. It really is a shame I decided to go with a reman'd engine, instead of rebuilding the original engine, considering I had to have the reman'd engine rebuilt again. But, considering the original engine had been done once before, who knows if it could have been rebuilt successfully.

Tomorrow I go to Advance Auto and get the Fel-Pro Dana 70 gasket, lots of Brake Kleen, and fresh, synthetic diff fluid. Because the 50 gallon fuel tank darn-near prevents access to the cover, I don't plan on seeing the inside of the Dana again, so synthetic should last, until I decide to sell the rig.


Fred
Retired Army Guy
1976 Monaco Winchester
22.5' Class C

Ballenxj

Formerly Southern Nevada, Idaho now

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Posted: 06/14/18 07:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StingrayL82 wrote:

I spent the better part of the day under the rear of the Monaco, cleaning the Dana 70.

Tomorrow I go to Advance Auto and get the Fel-Pro Dana 70 gasket, lots of Brake Kleen, and fresh, synthetic diff fluid. Because the 50 gallon fuel tank darn-near prevents access to the cover, I don't plan on seeing the inside of the Dana again, so synthetic should last, until I decide to sell the rig.

Providing the gears and bearings inside were in good shape, yeah, you should never have to worry about that differential again in your lifetime. I'll bet it looks a whole lot better now too. Congrats. [emoticon]


Downsizing ">

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 06/14/18 04:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ballenxj wrote:

StingrayL82 wrote:

I spent the better part of the day under the rear of the Monaco, cleaning the Dana 70.

Tomorrow I go to Advance Auto and get the Fel-Pro Dana 70 gasket, lots of Brake Kleen, and fresh, synthetic diff fluid. Because the 50 gallon fuel tank darn-near prevents access to the cover, I don't plan on seeing the inside of the Dana again, so synthetic should last, until I decide to sell the rig.

Providing the gears and bearings inside were in good shape, yeah, you should never have to worry about that differential again in your lifetime. I'll bet it looks a whole lot better now too. Congrats. [emoticon]


Gears and bearings look to be in good condition, and there was no noise from the rear end, when it was driven to the house two years ago. The only thing I can say that will need to be addressed is the pinion seal being replaced at some point in the future.

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 06/15/18 10:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I spent the afternoon getting my vacuum lines squared away. After determining that the Vacuum Amplifier was only used for EGR purposes, I took it off and set it on the parts shelf. Using "A Carter Thermo-Quad Guide" vacuum schematic, I connected the Distributor, Carb Purge, PCV, Choke Pull-Off & Air Cleaner Heater ports. I need to get some 11/32" vacuum line, in order to connect the Carb Bowl Vent to the Charcoal Canister.

One question I do have is this: I know what purpose a Vacuum Reservoir serves, but do I need it? The whole reason this project started was because of a vacuum leak which, as it turns out, was the bottom nipple on the reservoir not being connected to anything. I know that the top, larger nipple connects to manifold vacuum, but to what does the smaller nipple connect?

Here's a pic of my reservoir for reference.

[image]

VintageMopar

Missouri

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Posted: 06/16/18 01:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It keeps hvac doors from changing under low vacuum conditions like accelerating. It may have a one way valve built in on large (input or manifold) port, other wise there is one in the supply hosesmall one goes inside vehicle.

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 06/16/18 09:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

VintageMopar wrote:

It keeps hvac doors from changing under low vacuum conditions like accelerating. It may have a one way valve built in on large (input or manifold) port, other wise there is one in the supply hosesmall one goes inside vehicle.


It doesn’t have HVAC, only factory heat, and the doors are cable controlled. I do have factory Cruise Control, so maybe it’s for that, but the nipple on the Cruise Control servo is much bigger than the tiny reservoir nipple.

Or, maybe it was for the EGR and vacuum amplifier?

VintageMopar

Missouri

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Posted: 06/17/18 08:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, it’s for the cruise vacuum diaphragm, so it doesn’t lose too much speed on long hills.

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 06/17/18 10:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

VintageMopar wrote:

Yes, it’s for the cruise vacuum diaphragm, so it doesn’t lose too much speed on long hills.


Makes sense, and I kind of suspected it was for that. So does that mean that I need to reinstall the vacuum amplifier and just cap off the ports that went to the EGR, because there is a small nipple on the amplifier that corresponds to the reservoir, or can I just get away with using an adapter to enlargen the line from the small nipple on the reservoir to the cruise servo nipple?

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