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 > How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Eric Hysteric

Hildesheim

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Posted: 07/04/18 09:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the manual information and your posts!

"Dexron III fluid is the minimum one should use. For smoother shifting and less wear in winter, use Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 (there are numerous “universal” fluids, and one which conforms to Dexron III and/or ATF+3/+4 should work). "
Source: Allpar

@j-d
yes, it's the 2nd dana axle i use full syntetic 75w140 fluid, because it has very good lubricating properties and the highest heat reserves.
You are in Germany now?


'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate

j-d

Sunny Florida USA

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Posted: 07/04/18 12:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Eric Hysteric wrote:

You are in Germany now?


No Sir, we're back in Florida. Golden Wedding Anniversary trip. We flew to Zurich 21APR and had two days in that area. Then the Rhine cruise (Viking) to Amsterdam 01MAY. Got to see the Tulip Gardens but didn't take the windmill tour or boat ride around the canals. Took train to Hamburg 03MAY. SO much easier than flying Eurowings! Hospital 03-08MAY then we took a train trip down to Munich and Edelweiss Resort in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Beautiful trip! Then on to Berlin for a couple days and flew out 22MAY. We hope to get back before the family transfers out in a year or so. If you've got PM up, I'll let you know if/when we can take that trip. Maybe I can get down there, shake your hand and look at that Dodge.


If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

VintageMopar

Missouri

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Posted: 07/04/18 03:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There was also about 8 qts left that are old stuff that was in the clutch packs, pistons, drums and torque converter.
Good call on the synthetic and it does call for dexron, but synth is superior

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 07/04/18 04:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

VintageMopar wrote:

There was also about 8 qts left that are old stuff that was in the clutch packs, pistons, drums and torque converter.
Good call on the synthetic and it does call for dexron, but synth is superior


Thankfully mine is dry. My builder told me not to fill it, until the day I fire up the engine. His advice was to put 7qts in, start the engine in neutral, and immediately add 2qts. Then drop to 1st gear for several seconds, go to 2nd for several seconds, then Drive for several seconds, then Reverse for several seconds & finally Park. Shut the engine off and check the level & add as necessary. He said I want to be on the lower side of the dipstick when it’s cold, because the fluid expands when it’s warm.


Fred
Retired Army Guy
1976 Monaco Winchester
22.5' Class C

BitsPerSecond

Tricities, TN

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Posted: 07/07/18 01:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StingrayL82 wrote:

Holy **** that was one ugly cord! I can't stand seeing that gauge cord with regular electrical tape around it, it should have heavy-duty heat shrink tube around it.

Be careful with interior work, one small project turns into a gutted rig, LOL! Ask me how I know. [emoticon]


That's why it had to go! Don't get me started on the tape. They didn't even use real tape, it was the cheap stuff.

(Edit: I feel I should note that when I said I "cut the end off the splice", I meant that I got rid of the splice and just put a new end on he now shorter cord.)

I need to see what the damage is, but worst case, I rebuild the entire overcab. I knew going into this project that it was a possibility. But I know what you mean.

There are a lot of wants that I'd like to do to the camper. But I also don't want to gut the whole thing right now. I've decided to tackle one thing at a time in the interior and while I have it apart I can do some extras. For instance, while I have the overcab apart I plan on sealing it up good, adding insulation, and running some wiring for future electric. I'll have those walls open anyway so it makes sense to do it all now. That is the plan anyway.

StingrayL82 wrote:

...If anyone is interested, here are the correct part numbers for the MB300:

Mopar 185° Thermostat - 3512998/4131239
Power Brake Booster - Cardone 54-73121
Brake Master Cylinder - Cardone 13-1339
Right Brake Caliper - Cardone 184073S
Left Brake Caliper - Cardone 184074S
Front Brake Pads - Bendix MKD86FM
Right Brake Cylinder - AC Delco 18E855
Left Brake Cylinder - AC Delco 18E889
Rear Brake Shoes - AC Delco 17314R
Front Brake Hoses - Raybestos BH36718
Rear Center Brake Hose - Raybestos BH36963
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - Fel-Pro MS90460
Heater Hose, 1/2" x 6' - Dayco 80291
Heater Hose, 5/8" x 6' - Dayco 80292


Thanks! Not sure how many of those will be the same on the MB400, but I'll make a note all the same.

* This post was last edited 07/07/18 03:22am by BitsPerSecond *   View edit history

eyeteeth

SW Michigan

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Posted: 07/12/18 04:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, this one thing after another is getting to me. I ended up need My a new PCB board for me generator, voltage regulator, and the tuffy... a stator. Bought a second genset to rob parts off. Everything there is happier, get it put back in, and drive the unit home.

On the way... doesn’t seem to want to go up hill well. In my driveway... I see a little smoke or steam from the engine compartment and am pretty sure I’m smelling clutch... but.... not sure.

I really don’t want to ask for all ya all’s opinion... but where to start... what to take a look at? Has maybe 75,000 miles...

eyeteeth

SW Michigan

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Posted: 07/12/18 04:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Oh yea, who was asking about A/C placement info stuff?

Griff in Fairbanks

AK

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Posted: 07/12/18 04:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

eyeteeth wrote:

Well, this one thing after another is getting to me. I ended up need My a new PCB board for me generator, voltage regulator, and the tuffy... a stator. Bought a second genset to rob parts off. Everything there is happier, get it put back in, and drive the unit home.

On the way... doesn’t seem to want to go up hill well. In my driveway... I see a little smoke or steam from the engine compartment and am pretty sure I’m smelling clutch... but.... not sure.

I really don’t want to ask for all ya all’s opinion... but where to start... what to take a look at? Has maybe 75,000 miles...

Smell and look at your transmission fluid. Does it smell 'burnt?' Is it murky or clear?

Look for coolant leaks. Steam from coolant leaks has a distinct odor but it takes a bit of experience to recognize it and it's hard to describe.


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A


eyeteeth

SW Michigan

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Posted: 07/12/18 05:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It’s Red... how clear do you want it?

Ok... it’s a little dark, but it’s still red on my towel. I will have to pull the dipstick and try taking a good whiff when I get back.

I just reread my first post. That was terrible. My fault I guess for posting from my iPad while out and about.

Griff in Fairbanks

AK

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Posted: 07/12/18 05:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

eyeteeth wrote:

It’s Red... how clear do you want it?

Ok... it’s a little dark, but it’s still red on my towel. I will have to pull the dipstick and try taking a good whiff when I get back.

I just reread my first post. That was terrible. My fault I guess for posting from my iPad while out and about.

Smell is really going to tell if you're having problems.

It should be very clear ... you should be able to read the lettering on the dipstick through it. If it's dark, it (and the filter) needs to be changed. It may just be old. Burnt smell will really tell you the difference between just old fluid and possible problems.

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