Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Truck Campers: Happijac lubrication
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KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 03/05/21 01:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Keep on it, don't give up you will get it apart. Once you do you will be happy you did. If you got the gears off the top, it will come apart. If you can't get the upper gear off, use some sand paper to take the burrs off the shaft. Mine got stuck first try but I finally got it apart. Sounds like you have a lot of junk inside the tube. Can you imagine how hard the motor is working to get the leg down?Good luck and repost what you find.

ticki2

NH

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Posted: 03/05/21 04:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF makes an excellent penetrating oil . Turn the jack upside down and let it soak at lest a few hours , overnight is even better .


'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 03/05/21 10:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It has got to be really rusted up....that square plate has to slide out from the head. Just keep working it!

Bert the Welder

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Posted: 03/05/21 10:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Those with experience with them:
Would waxing the legs help?
Or shooting them with silicone type sprays?
Having a cover for the motor head units while stored, if outside?
To be honest, I'm a bit nervous/surprise at some of the experiences posted here. Certainly sound like these units need to be babied right from day one.


"> 1998 GMC 2500, 10.5 Okanagan, My better/smarter half, George and Finnegan(APBT), all I need.


650cent

Madras, OR

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Posted: 03/06/21 11:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've heard Happijack has a fast turn around time, why not send it back to them?

54suds

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Posted: 03/06/21 11:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ill say it they've been producing junk for years its about time they repair some at no charge look at their history of so called improvements all of which only raised their prices and barely improved quality

* This post was edited 03/06/21 11:20am by 54suds *


2021 Chev 6.6 duramax ltz DBL cab,drw,4x/torklift tdn's,
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KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 03/06/21 11:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My fix? They need to dip the outer tube and coat that tube with a layer of galvanization and the foot to. Do yo know that they put 4 small plastic discs at the bottom of the tube? I know that this can scrape off the paint from the leg and bind it up when a lot of pressure is leaning to one side...another fail.

goshawk

wyoming

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Posted: 03/07/21 03:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Update: still stuck, but I've learned a couple things. With the gears removed, at the point where the inner tube should slip out of the outer tube (but mine doesn't) I find I can turn the shaft easily. Smooth and nice. I figure that means the inner mechanism, the worm drive and all, is in good shape.

Because it's no longer held in place at the top (and no longer trying to move the stuck inner tube) I can crank it down about an inch, so there's free space between the top of the inner worm drive mechanism and the welded plate that serves as a stop when everything is properly assembled. Which in turn means that I can tap on the foot end and move the inner tube upwards about an inch. Then crank at the top again, make room, tap at the bottom... and so on, gradually compressing the whole rig, pouring in penetrating oil as I go. I'm hoping to free it up with the movement and the oil.

So: I can move it in, but can't pull it out. I'm thinking of trying a come-along on the pulling end if it stays stubborn. Maybe donate it to a tractor-pulling competition, LOL

For what it's worth, the inner tube -- the 30 inches or so that I've had out -- is clean, smooth, in good shape, no rust. That outer tube must be a mess inside.

JimK-NY

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Posted: 03/07/21 03:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Several years ago I was about ready to take an extended trip. I went to put the camper on the truck and one of the Happijacs was stuck. It would not work with the motor or the manual crank. I took it off the truck and still could not get it to work. I had to buy a new one. In fact I bought 2 just in case I have this happen again. Considering they lasted 18 years I don't feel too bad. I am more upset that I lost 2 motors because the seals leaked and they got wet.

Cannon George

Ojai, CA

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Posted: 03/07/21 04:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Goshawk
Regarding Exterior Finish: (for others) - there was a period of time where Happijac tubes were rusting badly via small exterior corrosion cells, I believe due to bad coating, I had to disassemble the jacks and take the tubes in to be sandblasted and powder coated. This fixed the problem. I wrote to Happijac but they did not answer me.

Regarding Bound-up tubes: I'm sorry for your trouble. Need to ask, is this just one tube or all 4? Is it at all possible you backed into/hit something and may have bent the tube(s)? (It wouldn't take much deflection to mess this up).

Regarding motors and water entry: It supposedly never rains in So Cal but I've had to rebuild several motors for this. Can't explain why, but motors were seized up solid with clear signs of water entry and damage. FYI, the little "drill motor" size bearings were readily available on Amazon for as low as 10qty/$12.99; (Same size as used in kid's "spinners") - the local NAPA store wanted $70 for just one bearing! It is my experience that years ago you could send in motors for exchange/rebuild but nowadays they will only sell you a complete replacement motorhead assembly, no exchange possible.

I'm overall happy with Happijac; but I'd be happy paying a little more for some extra Zerk grease nipples or oil lubrication ports, if that would assure longer life/ease of maintenance.

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