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 > Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

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D1trout

San Francisco Bay Area

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Posted: 10/07/19 09:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rereading your post, ticki, I surmise that F=6 and I=9, thus confirming that Argo is a 1969 C-11, the 83rd coach produced either that year or in the C-11 series to that point. I’m inclined to think it was the total run that produced the serial number... I wonder if there are other 1969 Avion C-11s with FI serial numbers greater than 83.
How many could they have built in Benton Harbor each year? Unlikely as many as 83...although that’s only 7 per month... almost 2 per week...is that plausible? Perhaps the serial numbers of the Benton Harbor plant and the California were combined, even tho the builders plates were different.
An interesting question to pursue...
No doubt they began production in California because of the salubrious weather

ticki2

NH

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Posted: 10/08/19 04:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

D1trout , I think you are correct in your Interpretation . I do think the number is by year and not total for the series , probably the combination of both plants . Don't know if California started first as mine is unit 4 out of Benton Harbor . In 68 & 69 they only allowed 3 digits for production number . In 67 and prior they also only allowed 3 if they started with 1000 ?


'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

67avion

Carbondale, Illinois

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Posted: 10/10/19 09:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK. We're back in the weeds here. We're tearing out the floor of the cabover. It had developed extensive rot around the perimeter and Sweet Jane was getting bothered by the wetness and smells. Luckily we traveled in mostly dry weather. But, our recent Rocky Mountain trip got us submerged in Kansas with torrential rains.

But, here is the weird part. I was absolutely sure that we had torn the plywood out in the renovation. Nope. We covered it with a 3/8" piece of plywood.

So, now I don't know how to repair it. Clearly the 3/4" piece of plywood has to slide under the wall. So, I'm wondering if anyone else has done this in place - without taking out any of the surrounding moulding etc.?

Pray for me ;-) Here we go.

[image]

[image]

* This post was edited 10/10/19 10:10am by 67avion *





67avion

Carbondale, Illinois

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Posted: 10/10/19 10:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm trying to get this image to the correct size and I've notified the Mod.

This is a view of the sandwich of foam and plywood in the cabover. We cut out sections of the plywood in order to remove the material. The problem, of course, is how to put it all back together.

http://s739.photobucket.com/user/dgorton/media/IMG_0060_zpst0x88ibi.jpg.html

[image]

* This post was last edited 10/10/19 12:48pm by 67avion *   View edit history

LoneWolfSS454

Nevada

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Posted: 10/10/19 11:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

67 Avion, I wish I could help with your question and I don't mean to be a smart-azz, but you really should figure out where and/or how the water is getting inside or whatever work you do replacing wood is for not, it'll just get wet and rot/mold/smell again.

I do have a somewhat related suggestion for anyone with their camper tore apart inside. Find some micro-switches and mount them somewhere in or near the openings of the roof vents (mounted such to "close" the switch if the vent is left open, tied to a vehicle ignition-on circuit), do the windows too if possible. Wire them up (using low voltage, fused of course) to a small "light board" in the cab, with small warning lights. With this done, if you try to take off with any roof vents open (or windows) you'll get light(s) lit up telling you so. Besides preventing rain from being blown inside the camper, it'll also prevent you from blowing the somewhat fragile roof vents completely off.

Edit: I just remembered something, leaving the water heater cover loose at an overnight stop, driving off and loosing it. It, along with other compartment doors, can also be wired up with various micro-switches. Water hook-up & electrical cord compartment door, propane tank door, etc.

* This post was edited 10/10/19 11:45am by LoneWolfSS454 *

garryk6

Central WA

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Posted: 10/10/19 11:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’m gonna follow this one as I may need to do this in the foreseeable future.

Garry


Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper


67avion

Carbondale, Illinois

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Posted: 10/10/19 12:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looks like we're having a teachable moment. There are things I didnt know about the cabover: screws coming from inside the walls to secure wood directly beneath the top of the cabover.
[image]

The fact that the wood directly below the walls is sawn at an angle to fit below the edges of the wall. The wood appears to be 1 1/4"
[image]
We removed all of the screws from the bottom of the cabover and carefully packed them away. I noted that they were all SS.
[image]

So, we are trying to make sense out of all this. I plan to put a support below the cabover that will hold the aluminum skin taut. It will probably have large timbers running horizontal and 3/4" plywood sheet. (We have to crawl out onto the cabover to make the repairs). We will try to replicate the sandwich with the insulation. Then we have to reattach the sandwich to the walls. The problem is that we have to cut the screws off. We are thinking about using fiberglass to secure L brackets to the wood sandwich to secure from above. Anyone have any ideas?

rastaman33609

central florida

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Posted: 10/10/19 01:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

67avion.....I replaced my entire cab over flooring during my rebuild, I remember having to 'trim' the boards to fit that curved area. It was a layer of 1/2" ply cut to the exact shape of the cab over.( I might of had to use two pieces to get it in) that were sealed around the edges with penetrating sealer then the entire board coated, with epoxy.

That formed the lower base. Above that was placed 4 runs of 1" x 12" rough cut ceder boars cut to length, Those had to be cut and sanded to shape to wedge in tight to that curved area. (giving the desired 3/4' thickness). Those gave support and something to screw into.

I then screwed through the horizontal rail into the cedar around the perimeter and also used some L brackets where the over head vertical ribs met the boards...turned out pretty strong. I did all this from inside without removing the lower skin.

In between the runs of 12' boards I place 1" foam board..then a top layer of 1/2' ply was added.

I will send you a picture, (it will be easier to grasp) sorry... I still have not been able to post one here :-(

rastaman33609

central florida

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Posted: 10/10/19 02:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To further explain...The bottom layer of ply (what ever thickness it was), combined with the rough cut (true 1" cedar boards) gave me the desired thickness. The ply really didn't provide much support. The support comes from the boards that fit into/under the horizontal C channel. and was attached like the original, just that now instead of screwing into whatever they used I was now going into solid 1" boards
and ply that were formed to fit the horizontal and vertical curvatures, sandwiched between the framing and skin. I added L brackets on the side of the vertical rails for good measure.

I also used a few metal roofing screws with rubber washers, screwing from below outside through the skin to attach the ply to the 12" boards. That secured the ply. The entire support comes from the boards, resting on the bulkhead at one end, running north to south and attached to the support aluminium frame along the side and in front. I used ( 4) 12" boards 1 on each side and 2 spaced in the middle. then 1' foam board to fill in the gaps between the boards then covered with ply cut to shape. The upper ply if I recall is not attached, its not going anywhere, i can then lift it to inspect for moisture.

At the time I did not have a design as such, it just kind of fell into place, I did't take any pictures really just a couple of the completed area.

The key is to get that curvature just right, so that the boards..whatever you use goes all the way in to meet the outside skin, which provides a thicker area of the board where you will have to screw into. You will have to form the side of the outer boards as well as the front corner and curve.

hope this help...I will be happy to PM anyone who wants to see pics.

No problem mon

67avion

Carbondale, Illinois

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Posted: 10/10/19 02:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rasta thanks so much. I think I get it, but I cant make out the photos you sent by text. Get in touch with the Mod - Bedlam. He seems to be able to explain the picture posting business.

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