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flyte63

Buffalo, NY

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Posted: 08/25/20 10:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi ticki, I have not found a place where the outer skin or aluminum frame is specifically bonded to the 12v ground. However on my ‘65 the Ground Wire of the pigtail coming from the truck is wired to the 12v house White negative line inside the front wall below the old screw-in fuse box. While I was in there I added a new ground stud (bolt) to the aluminum frame next to where the pigtail comes in so that I have someplace good to ground to. I also added switch plate sized access panel In that area so I don’t have to pull the inside skin off to get at that area next time.


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flyte63

Buffalo, NY

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Posted: 08/25/20 11:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here’s a link (If it works) to an album with some photos of work I’ve been doing in that area of the pigtail and old fuse box. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dGXmHjaE4V2aBLCv6

Bedlam

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Posted: 08/25/20 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have not seen an RV that uses chassis ground. They are wired more like a boat or home with dedicated ground runs. There may be a central grounding point/post, but it does not necessarily have to be attached to the chassis.


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ticki2

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Posted: 08/25/20 04:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bedlam wrote:

I have not seen an RV that uses chassis ground. They are wired more like a boat or home with dedicated ground runs. There may be a central grounding point/post, but it does not necessarily have to be attached to the chassis.


Bedlam , we are talking old campers here . The exterior running lights are single wire and get their ground from the exterior aluminum skin , witch has to be grounded somewhere . The schematic shows one , just not where .


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Bedlam

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Posted: 08/25/20 04:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did not deal with any RV's that were metal framed with metal skin. All of mine had ground runs to a central point. Even the ones that had aluminum siding over wood did not attempt to use the skin as a return path. So your exterior is the only return path? I am sure you can fashion additional ground leads to the skin, but have taken a resistance reading between the skin and the negative side of the battery yet?

JoeChiOhki

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Posted: 08/25/20 05:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bedlam wrote:

I did not deal with any RV's that were metal framed with metal skin. All of mine had ground runs to a central point. Even the ones that had aluminum siding over wood did not attempt to use the skin as a return path. So your exterior is the only return path? I am sure you can fashion additional ground leads to the skin, but have taken a resistance reading between the skin and the negative side of the battery yet?


A number of brands in the mid-early 70s did the skin ground method of the clearance lights and tail lights (KIT, Dynacruiser, Conestoga to name a few lines I've helped folks diagnose ground issues on that all stemmed from that grounding link breaking or working loose over time).

Usually, there's a clamp block that a bare aluminum conductor connects into fastened to the skin and then tied into the ground wire bundle running inside the camper that connects back into the camper's pigtail connection.

Amerigo even did this, using the aluminum screw strip that ran around the perimeter of the roof to ground the clearance lights into, with a wire that ran back to the main loom.

It was a cost savings measure as it was all low voltage, and saved on the amount of wire needed to wire up a camper.

On several, they also tied that big ground connection into the 110volt safety ground to ensure that the RV's skin was earth grounded when the unit was plugged into shore power.


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ticki2

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Posted: 08/27/20 11:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

flyte63 wrote:

Hi ticki, I have not found a place where the outer skin or aluminum frame is specifically bonded to the 12v ground. However on my ‘65 the Ground Wire of the pigtail coming from the truck is wired to the 12v house White negative line inside the front wall below the old screw-in fuse box. While I was in there I added a new ground stud (bolt) to the aluminum frame next to where the pigtail comes in so that I have someplace good to ground to. I also added switch plate sized access panel In that area so I don’t have to pull the inside skin off to get at that area next time.


That's probably a smart idea . Since I couldn't find the original I added one . I was just curious where the
original was . I didn't have to take my Avion completely apart because it was in good condition , but I know others have had theirs stripped .

D1trout

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Posted: 08/27/20 04:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ticki2, on Argo, there were two frame ground attachments, one on each side of the camper, bolted through the last rib of the shell, just before the final curved rear panel.
Each consisted of a bolt, perhaps 1/4” diameter, bolted thru the rib fore and aft, about 12” to 14” above the base of the rib at the floor. To this was attached a flat braided wire of the sort commonly seen on grounds. The end of that wire fed into the original wiring harness on both sides of the camper. When I replaced the wiring, I kept those frame grounds on each side, feeding my ground wire to the braided wire. I don’t recall how I attached those wires together. I also grounded the panels of breakers to the frame in the electrical control cabinet by attaching those wires to the aluminum frame of the cabinet. Plus I grounded the batteries at the main breaker. Remember that I’m an all aluminum frame so the ground is throughout the rig.
Hope this helps. If a pic would help, let me know. I’m away from my photo stash at the moment but might be able to get one next week.
Dick

flyte63

Buffalo, NY

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Posted: 08/27/20 04:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have not taken any interior skin off of ours either, have only pulled it back in the original 12v fuse box area. I have seen the ground stud for the 110v system. I replaced the 110v 30 amp Inlet and that stud was accessible when the old inlet was removed. I don’t believe that there was a 12v ground also wired to that same stud as Joe mentioned, but it’s possible.

ticki2

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Posted: 08/27/20 05:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

D1trout , thanks for the info . Interestingly the schematic shows the ground to frame in the area you mentioned but only on the road side . I don't think I will be tearing the bathroom apart to find it LOL.

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