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quasimatter

East Bay, SF, CA

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Posted: 12/01/20 09:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

eldel wrote:

quasimatter wrote:

Anyone know where is the fresh water drain plug on Majestic 28A?


Under the bed. Lift the mattress, unscrew the wooden top and the fresh water and drain are right there.


Thanks - I suspect the fresh water tank is there (but then I wonder where is the fuel tank? Fuel inlet is right below bedroom window).

BTW - I found fresh water drains right next to gray/black water drains. One is for cold water and other is for heater. The quarter turn stop valves are there but the pipes further to center of RV and water drains from there.

cencerrita

Florida

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Posted: 12/02/20 06:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

quasimatter wrote:

eldel wrote:

quasimatter wrote:

Anyone know where is the fresh water drain plug on Majestic 28A?


Under the bed. Lift the mattress, unscrew the wooden top and the fresh water and drain are right there.


Thanks - I suspect the fresh water tank is there (but then I wonder where is the fuel tank? Fuel inlet is right below bedroom window).

BTW - I found fresh water drains right next to gray/black water drains. One is for cold water and other is for heater. The quarter turn stop valves are there but the pipes further to center of RV and water drains from there.


If the fresh water drains you have found are small diameter then it is only for the pipework and not the tank. Also when built a standard length with presssure end fittings seems to get used for the water pipes after the pump and consequently they will not drain down fully due to uphill sections[emoticon] I always used a air compressor to clear the lines via the shrader valve connection. Amazing the amount of water you get out. Water drain down and winterize


www.cencerrita.comNow living in Pembrokeshire, Wales, UK. Seeour web site for US travels www.cencerrita.com


quasimatter

East Bay, SF, CA

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Posted: 12/02/20 10:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cencerrita wrote:


If the fresh water drains you have found are small diameter then it is only for the pipework and not the tank. Also when built a standard length with presssure end fittings seems to get used for the water pipes after the pump and consequently they will not drain down fully due to uphill sections[emoticon] I always used a air compressor to clear the lines via the shrader valve connection. Amazing the amount of water you get out. Water drain down and winterize


WOW - thanks a lot for the link and the write up with pictures. I also went through your entire travel-blog; such fascinating stories/trips. THANKS.

SJ-Chris

San Jose, Ca

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Posted: 12/02/20 07:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

quasimatter wrote:

SJ-Chris wrote:


- Added 3 USB charging ports (over couch, over dinette, over rear bed)
- Added a 2nd battery (in 2nd from rear on driver's side small bay)
- Added a TV/DVD player
- Added a Aili battery monitor

-Chris


Hi Chris - looks like we are within few miles of each other!

I want to make the above mods myself.. Could you please share links to what you bought (and installation instructions if you can).

Meanwhile - I am half way to Solar installation: I got the following

Victron MPPT controller

Folding Solar Panels

For backup camera - I went for wired version which also serves as dash cam - not installed yet (since I need extra length cable which I have ordered).

VanTop Dashcam ($59.99 at VanTop website)

Also got the following - which is actually pretty awesome:
Front Privacy Screen/Shade

More later..


Sorry...just saw this reply/request...

I have two 2015 Majestic 28a Class C RVs from Cruise America...

Here are the USB outlets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZQJPJMB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$12 each. I have used others in the past, but these are BY FAR the easiest to install. You just need a drill bit the right size and you can install these close to a dome light by tapping off the dome light wiring behind the panel (there is plenty of space). Each one only takes me about 10 minutes to do now that I know how!

When installing a 2nd battery: I'm surprised that the 28as only have one coach battery. Adding a 2nd battery to double capacity seemed like a no-brainer. I put it in the small, otherwise pretty useless compartment on the driver's side near the rear (this is on a 28a Majestic). I drilled holes for ventilation in the compartment. I purchased these 20' long super heavy duty jumper cables and then I cut off the ends and crimped on some connectors. I ran the cables under the coach and it was pretty easy to zip-tie it up along the way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FZWBKNZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(~$35 which was a cheap solution for thick wires).
and this crimper:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V6V7XZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and these connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083QC122B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also used one of these trays ($9) that I bolted down so I could strap the battery in place:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3ALEQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you are just doing one, see if you know anyone with a crimper and save yourself the $$$. I knew I was going to need it for several RVs and projects so I didn't mind buying it. I didn't need to buy any new batteries as I had what I needed already. But when I need batteries from time to time, I have been buying from Walmart. You can get what appear to be pretty good 29Ds for less than $100 each which seems like a good value.

For the TV and DVD player that I added, I put them in the most obvious place in the 28a Majestic (above the cab on the driver side). There is already an outlet there. I installed a painted wood 1x3 trim around the top and the bottom of that upper window. This gave me a surface to mount a long-extension TV mount such that it could be opened well into the visual space.
Here is the TV mount:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082W8JX6R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put a 32" TV on it. I put a shelf in the front compartment above the dinette on the driver's side where I mounted a DVD player. Then I drilled a circular hole through to the front where the TV is mounted. I finished it off nicely with some of these that you can pick up at Home Depot:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-1-1-2-in-Furniture-Hole-Cover-Black-COVER-BK-1-5/203717844


I added an Aili Battery Monitor. I posted about it in the tech section. (Search Aili). Here is a link to buy one:
https://www.amazon.com/AiLi-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Voltage-Motorhome/dp/B07FGFFHC6/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-drs1_0?cv_ct_cx=aili&dchild=1&keywords=aili&pd_rd_i=B07FGFFHC6&pd_rd_r=9fefbcae-ff9a-421a-998e-c090894c6ed6&pd_rd_w=aWWrp&pd_rd_wg=Cm0IK&pf_rd_p=c33e4373-edb9-47f9-a7e6-5d3d6a7a4ad0&pf_rd_r=2B71883T48WB1GJ4XT2G&psc=1&qid=1606961959&sr=1-1-5e875a02-02b1-4426-9916-8a5c26cd5a14
$44. So far, I LOVE IT. I'm kind of a nerd and it allows me to know all about the electrical usage (and charging). I have always wondered...
- How much power does each device use?
- How much battery do I use per day?
- How much is drawing on the batteries when I *think* everything is off?
- Also...I had lots of charging questions...like...
- If I'm charging by shore power (or generator, or alternator), how quickly does the battery get charged?

All of these questions also help with my planning for adding solar and determining how much solar I should add. Since I only use the RVs (or let others use the RV) recreationally, I've decided I'll put 200w on each RV and see how it goes. I'm guessing I'll probably end up putting 300w on one of them and use that one "when boondocking". If I have two 200w systems, I think I'll actually put 100w on one of my RVs and 300w on the other.

For backup camera, I've added one to each of the 3 RVs I've owned. I have found these to be very easy to install (WIRELESS):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078PDH6Z8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can install it up high by the running lights and tap off the wiring for the running lights. On the dashboard, you just need to plug the monitor into the cigarette lighter. Then, all you need to remember is that to have the camera on you need to have your headlights on (so the running lights have power). Cost: $140.

I'll see if I can get some photos to add to this post.

Hope that's helpful to someone. I enjoy helping others, so if you have any questions feel free to PM me or post them here.

-Chris

* This post was last edited 12/03/20 01:22pm by SJ-Chris *   View edit history


San Jose, CA
Own two 2015 Thor Majestic 28a Class C RVs

TwistedGray

Monterey Bay, CA

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Posted: 12/03/20 01:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SJ-Chris wrote:

I enjoy helping others, so if you have any questions feel free to PM me or post them here.

-Chris


Well, I'll cruise on up to San Jose shortly [emoticon]

I definitely want to do what you did in order to have access to 110v and USB while in motion, so I'm very interested in that.

I was thinking of having the local RV shop deal with the headache of wiring. Although, I am perfectly capable; however, crimping is a different story. Any issue with just soldering the wires and heat shrinking them...I wonder how this compares to the reliability of crimping (which I am horrid at, but then again I don't have a crimping tool...I use pliers and sometimes a nail and usually just end up wasting crimps).

SJ-Chris

San Jose, Ca

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Posted: 12/03/20 01:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TwistedGray wrote:

SJ-Chris wrote:

I enjoy helping others, so if you have any questions feel free to PM me or post them here.

-Chris


Well, I'll cruise on up to San Jose shortly [emoticon]

I definitely want to do what you did in order to have access to 110v and USB while in motion, so I'm very interested in that.

I was thinking of having the local RV shop deal with the headache of wiring. Although, I am perfectly capable; however, crimping is a different story. Any issue with just soldering the wires and heat shrinking them...I wonder how this compares to the reliability of crimping (which I am horrid at, but then again I don't have a crimping tool...I use pliers and sometimes a nail and usually just end up wasting crimps).


I'm just a normal guy with probably a slightly higher than average knowledge regarding fixing things and DIY projects. I'm no expert though.

I am a busy guy and I have the means to have my RV(s) worked at by RV specialists, but.... I kinda feel like most of the time I'm being ripped off and taken advantage of by the repair shops. And since RVs are constantly needing things fixed (especially if you have more than one) I have made it a point to try to do what I can to work on them when the issue is easy enough. It's also a hassle dropping off an RV, getting back home somehow, then getting back to the repair shop to pickup. Not to mention, often times the RV repair shops can't fit you in for 1-5 weeks!

Here is a crimping tool I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V6V7XZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It makes crimping SIMPLE.

I assume that soldering would be great for making an electrical connection, but I don't know how strong physically it would be. There is probably a good reason why battery cable connections are always physically crimped (...but who knows, maybe is it just a cost thing).

Regarding projects that require wiring: If the wiring is local (ie. tapping off a dome light to put in USB ports, or tapping into the rear top running light to add a wireless backup camera) then I find it pretty easy to do. But if wires need to be routed a long way through walls or ceilings I'm not comfortable and would hardly know where to begin.

Happy to help! Good luck!
Chris

* This post was edited 12/03/20 01:38pm by SJ-Chris *

eldel

Northern Colorado

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Posted: 12/03/20 02:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SJ-Chris wrote:

But if wires need to be routed a long way through walls or ceilings I'm not comfortable and would hardly know where to begin.
Chris


I resemble that remark. I just booked my 28A into the local shop to get the solar system fitted.

Victron invertor & controller, 200AH of lithium batteries and 250W of panels. Not doing that lot myself.

TwistedGray

Monterey Bay, CA

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Posted: 12/03/20 04:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SJ-Chris wrote:

TwistedGray wrote:

SJ-Chris wrote:

I enjoy helping others, so if you have any questions feel free to PM me or post them here.

-Chris


Well, I'll cruise on up to San Jose shortly [emoticon]

I definitely want to do what you did in order to have access to 110v and USB while in motion, so I'm very interested in that.

I was thinking of having the local RV shop deal with the headache of wiring. Although, I am perfectly capable; however, crimping is a different story. Any issue with just soldering the wires and heat shrinking them...I wonder how this compares to the reliability of crimping (which I am horrid at, but then again I don't have a crimping tool...I use pliers and sometimes a nail and usually just end up wasting crimps).


I'm just a normal guy with probably a slightly higher than average knowledge regarding fixing things and DIY projects. I'm no expert though.

I am a busy guy and I have the means to have my RV(s) worked at by RV specialists, but.... I kinda feel like most of the time I'm being ripped off and taken advantage of by the repair shops. And since RVs are constantly needing things fixed (especially if you have more than one) I have made it a point to try to do what I can to work on them when the issue is easy enough. It's also a hassle dropping off an RV, getting back home somehow, then getting back to the repair shop to pickup. Not to mention, often times the RV repair shops can't fit you in for 1-5 weeks!

Here is a crimping tool I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V6V7XZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It makes crimping SIMPLE.

I assume that soldering would be great for making an electrical connection, but I don't know how strong physically it would be. There is probably a good reason why battery cable connections are always physically crimped (...but who knows, maybe is it just a cost thing).

Regarding projects that require wiring: If the wiring is local (ie. tapping off a dome light to put in USB ports, or tapping into the rear top running light to add a wireless backup camera) then I find it pretty easy to do. But if wires need to be routed a long way through walls or ceilings I'm not comfortable and would hardly know where to begin.

Happy to help! Good luck!
Chris


I think soldering is comparable to crimping as there is a mechanical connection (the solder). My thought process was that solder is what holds down nearly every component on a PCB; therefore, it has to be structurally sound. Lol, one way to find out [emoticon]

But yeah...I am very interested in repeating what you did for tapping into the coach battery to draw some power without having the genny doing work or being plugged in. The outlet(s) that you put next to the table support tube, how are those wired into the surge protector? I know it's all wired up now so hard to show (?), but do you have a basic napkin sketch?

SJ-Chris

San Jose, Ca

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Posted: 12/05/20 07:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

eldel wrote:

SJ-Chris wrote:

But if wires need to be routed a long way through walls or ceilings I'm not comfortable and would hardly know where to begin.
Chris


I resemble that remark. I just booked my 28A into the local shop to get the solar system fitted.

Victron invertor & controller, 200AH of lithium batteries and 250W of panels. Not doing that lot myself.


I used to be a little intimidated with the thought of adding solar. I wasn't sure about putting holes in my roof. I also wasn't sure about how to run the wiring. I asked my RV mechanic once how he would do it and he said they usually route the wires down through the refrigerator exhaust vent. Recently I did a refrigerator repair (replaced the cooling unit) and when I had the refrigerator out I saw how easy it would be to route the wires.

Solar will be a project very soon. I already purchased a 200w WindyNation system. I've got 200AH bank and an Aili monitor which has proven to be a great monitor so far.

-Chris

quasimatter

East Bay, SF, CA

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Posted: 12/07/20 11:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SJ-Chris wrote:



Hope that's helpful to someone. I enjoy helping others, so if you have any questions feel free to PM me or post them here.

-Chris


Thanks Chris - It DEFINITELY did help. I have put all items on my list on Amazon and will tackle them one by one (though I already did the USB, TV and RearCamera (wired one)). I will certainly install Aili and additional battery as per your instructions. Just trying to decide to stick with AGM or jump to Lithium.

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