Replacing Basler Central Power Pack with WF-8735

[79starflite6]

I’m seeking Central Power Pack replacement advice. I have a 1979 Starcraft Starflite 6. It came with a Basler ES-06 6 Amp converter. I have replaced all of the horrific 110V outlets to modern residential code (not that it’s really required). And you guys are right; the wiring (splicing) in those old outlets looked like giant dead spiders!

Although the converter is NOT a charger, and was only intended to run the dome light (which I have replaced with an LED version), I have installed a 3-speed vent fan, an LED utility light, and 2 incandescent porch lights – all on one DC circuit via stud terminal block. I know it sounds scary, but with all of those accessories on (which I would never do, but did test it), it only draws 6.22 amps (not including surge amps from the fan motor, and I don’t know that number). I want to replace the converter with a WFCO WF-8735 35 Amp Power Center, and make everything really safe.

The big question is coming soon. The Basler panel has what they call a “convenience” 110 receptacle, and a 15A circuit breaker to protect it – both of which I don’t need, it also has a 3-way switch (1. Conv, 2. OFF, and 3. Batt), and a 10A fuse for the lone DC circuit.

The big question: In addition to the wiring instructions for the new Power Center (which I haven’t ordered yet), how do the old components (3-way switch, etc.) get replaced with the new stuff? Does the 3-way switch get eliminated? If so, how is the new system wired to the batt. The 12V batt, when connected has the Pos going to the 3-way switch, and the trailer connector then towing vehicle, and the Neg going to chassis ground. How does THAT get changed with a new Power Panel. I hope I’m making sense. Thanks for anyone’s help.

[79starflite6]

Thanks for all of your very informative replies.
@pianotuna: I should have said, "Although my CURRENT converter is not a charger...". I do want something that charges the batt.

@RoyB: Your system sounds fantastic, and I thank you for all the diagrams. When I bought the camper used in 2003, I obtained from StarCraft a photocopy of the manual - which has a crude schematic diagram in it.

@beemerphile1: Thanks for your input. The receptacles are indeed in boxes. I did think of researching modern RV outlets.

@red31: Thank you! The 3-way switch has "OFF" as the center position - which kills power to the light/accessories.

Thanks again to all of you!
Tom

[red31]

Newer 'power centers' auto switch, if you are plugged into to 120v AC, the converter is powered and supplies 12v DC to the circuits including to the battery.

When you are not plugged into 120v AC, the battery provides the 12v DC to the circuits.

You'll likely need a 30A cord wired into the AC side of the 'power center' to be able to plug into shore power. Your existing 120v AC circuits are wired to the breaker/buss bars.

The 12v DC circuits would be wired to the various circuits available, the battery has its own, they share a ground.

If you have a safety kill switch for the lights (kills power to light when not popped up), you'd wire the light circuit through the kill switch.

[beemerphile1]

The three way switch is eliminated.

The WFCO is a good basic three stage charger/converter/power center. You might want to consider the 8725P to save some money. It should be sufficient for all your needs.

Residential receptacles only meet code if they are in a box. RV and mobile home receptacles do not need a box. Any receptacles should be GFCI protected.

The red wire from converter goes to the battery, the charge line from tow vehicle goes to the battery. All negative/grounds go to the frame.

Your WFCO will have positions for breakers. You can get the breakers at your local home improvement store. Use a 30a breaker as the main by energizing the buss bar through that breaker. Add 20a and 15a breakers as needed for other receptacles.

[RoyB]

I see the WF8735 is a smart-mode technolog converter/charger unit but alot of folks have problems like I did getting the WFCO products to go into their charger modes.




I would at least go to the next series up being the WF8900 series so that you could direct replace the converter/charger unit with a PD4600 or PD9200 series unit if you have problems getting your WF8700 series to go into smart mode charging. It appears to be a self contained unit where the WF8900 series has the converter/charger module separate from the power distribution center.

Your other questions will hard for anyone to answer other than a previous STARCRAFT owner of your same unit. Maybe someone will dime in with your answers.

You should be able to trace down the shore power cable and how it connects up and make some decisions from that. Should be pretty straight forward on 120VAC wiring. My 30AMP shore power cable goes directly to the converter/charger chassis where the 30AMP circuit breaker is installed. I have no idea what you are referring too with those other switches you referred to... Also note that the POPUP PORTAL link also has manuals available for the older POPUPS - might find some good info in those. My starcraft 2008 manual has an electrical wiring schematic in it. If your model doesnt have the electrical diagram in it perhaps you can look a couple of years newer with the same model and maybe find a diagram.

Roy Ken

[RoyB]

Be sure to surf the POPUP PORTAL LINK. They have alot of info on the older POPUPS...

REBUILD of 1970 Startcraft POPUP like yours.


I replaced my very simple ELIXIR Power Center on my 2008 POPUP with a WF 8900 series power panel which had a WF8945 COnverter/charger unit in the bottom compartment. Then I found out the WF8945 unit would never go into smart mode charging so added a PD9260C to the system to support my then four each 85AHs Interstate batteries.

Sounds like you may want to to decide what all you want to. I basically have all of these 120VAC and 12VDC units in my 12-foot main floor POPUP and needed a good power power panel that had enough 120VAC Circuit breaker positions and 12VDC fuse positions to power all of the items.



This is my floorplan layout


This is where most of my appliances are all located inside the cabinets


This is my WF8900 series power center diagram


Just passing all of this along to get you thinking what all could be done if you wanted to attack such a project. Of course I'm think you may only have a 6-foot box where mine is a 12-foot box... Didnt look up your specs...

We camp out alot off the power grid and have all the 120VAC and 12VDC toys we want to have when camping to run one day/nite camping run off our bigger batter bank. Then we re-charge the batteries the next morning using our smart mode technology converter/charger unit by connecting our shore power cable directly to our 2KW Honda generator 120VAC receptacle using a RV30A-15A long adapter. We always run into the problems here on the East side of the US of not being allowed to run our generator when we want to so the way out for us was to beef up the trailer and run off the batteries for camping off the power grids.

We have camped all over the south and and far west as OKLA/TEXAS pulling our OFF-ROAD POPUP. Love the high country of VA-NC-TN-NC-SC-AL-GA Natl forest areas the best.

Camping in Wichita Wildlife Refuge at Medicine Park OK


Roy Ken

[pianotuna]

Hi,

So you do not wish to charge the battery?

The PD and Iota converters are possibly better than the unit you are considering.