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 > Dropped 5er with Pullrite SuperGlide?

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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 07/11/15 04:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MNRon wrote:

korbe I'm with you, I don't understand the value of a pull test IF you visually see the jaws wrapped around the pin AND the wider pin flange below the jaws. I even painted my pin flange to make it easier to see this. I try to follow the proper process/procedure hooking up and ALWAYS visually look, but have never done a pull-test to double-check my visual check...just sayin', not recommending to others or trying to start a flame war...


Nice to see some people live by common sense!

With my B&W the kingpin plate and hitch plate are touching the handle is closed and LOCKED and the 1" thick jaws are closed around the kingpin it is hitched and can not separate.

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Dave H M

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Posted: 07/11/15 04:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't recall doing a pull test ever. I see no reason for it if the jaws have closed and locked.

I do do a brake test though.

CarlT100

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Posted: 07/11/15 05:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I do a visual inspection, make sure the lever is locked and pinned, and then I do a pull test. I would rather be safe than sorry. I watched a fellow in the storage lot I use drop his FW on his brand new F-350. It was his fault, he failed to make sure the hitch was locked. Had he done a pull test, He would not need a new bed for his brand new truck.


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MarkTwain

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Posted: 07/11/15 05:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wilber1 wrote:

Regardless of hitch type, 99% of the time it is not a mechanical failure when this happens, it is either poor procedure or getting out of sequence due to rushing or being interrupted when hooking up or unhooking.

X1, RIGHT ON! When I am hooking up to my 5th wheel, I tell everyone and anyone to NOT talk or ask questions until I tell you its ok to talk to me[emoticon][emoticon][emoticon]

MarkTwain

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Posted: 07/11/15 05:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MNRon wrote:

korbe I'm with you, I don't understand the value of a pull test IF you visually see the jaws wrapped around the pin AND the wider pin flange below the jaws. I even painted my pin flange to make it easier to see this. I try to follow the proper process/procedure hooking up and ALWAYS visually look, but have never done a pull-test to double-check my visual check...just sayin', not recommending to others or trying to start a flame war...


Micki Bitsko says "If you do the pull test you have nothing to loose and everything to gain". Every RV technician/sales that I have talked to has always recommended doing the pull test.

RollandB

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Posted: 07/11/15 06:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My Superglide is a 3300 which I would assume is like the the current model, if it doesn't latch I know it before getting out of the truck. There is a diff inmate sound when it latches and doesn't take much to latch. I do the visual check then hook up the poser, and safety cable, then pull test, brake and light check. I'd rather deal with peace of mind than Murphys Law.


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larry barnhart

wenatchee. wa usa

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Posted: 07/11/15 06:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dave H M wrote:

I don't recall doing a pull test ever. I see no reason for it if the jaws have closed and locked.

I do do a brake test though.



why do a brake test they worked the last time you hit the brakes.
I know I m being silly but I would do both it is so easy.

chevman


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southernsky

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Posted: 07/11/15 07:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old Duck wrote:

My Superglide is a 3300 which I would assume is like the the current model, if it doesn't latch I know it before getting out of the truck. There is a diff inmate sound when it latches and doesn't take much to latch. I do the visual check then hook up the poser, and safety cable, then pull test, brake and light check. I'd rather deal with peace of mind than Murphys Law.

X2 Better safe then sorry


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tsetsaf

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Posted: 07/11/15 08:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Superglide is a great hitch with easy hookup and positive "clank" engagement. I hitch, visually inspect, raise the gear, and brake test.


2006 Ram 3500
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"I don't trust my own advise!"

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 07/11/15 09:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

djgarcia wrote:

MNRon wrote:

korbe I'm with you, I don't understand the value of a pull test IF you visually see the jaws wrapped around the pin AND the wider pin flange below the jaws. I even painted my pin flange to make it easier to see this. I try to follow the proper process/procedure hooking up and ALWAYS visually look, but have never done a pull-test to double-check my visual check...just sayin', not recommending to others or trying to start a flame war...


Micki Bitsko says "If you do the pull test you have nothing to loose and everything to gain". Every RV technician/sales that I have talked to has always recommended doing the pull test.


Do you really think they would tell you not to and risk a law suit?

When I had a RBW hitch I did a pull test. Made sense because you physically could not tell for a fact everything was latched.

If I had a hitch that had a color code or some other obscure method of latching I sure would do a pull test also!

Close the handle lock it and check that the plates are touching and the 1" jaws are closed. No need to do a pull test. Do a pull if you want but I do a visual test.

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