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 > Dropped 5er with Pullrite SuperGlide?

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mileshuff

Phoenix, AZ.

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Posted: 07/11/15 10:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The SuperGlide is nearly impossible to high-hitch, one of the more common mistakes new 5'er owners make. The capture plate on the king pin makes it unlikely that high-hitching can occur. So not sure how you could ever drop the 5'er if the hitch engaged.


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Carlos & Ranae

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Posted: 07/12/15 12:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Going on four years and a few hundred hitching/unhitching without incident.
fist I chech, then the wife checks

Super glide 18000 pounds


Carlos & Ranae
2017 Seismic 4212
2012 Dodge Ram, 3500 Laramie Longhorn
4X4, DWR, Pullrite 18KSuperslide Hitch
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Duck

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Posted: 07/12/15 03:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old Duck wrote:

My Superglide is a 3300 which I would assume is like the the current model, if it doesn't latch I know it before getting out of the truck. There is a diff inmate sound when it latches and doesn't take much to latch. I do the visual check then hook up the poser, and safety cable, then pull test, brake and light check. I'd rather deal with peace of mind than Murphys Law.


One thing I did to make checking that the jaws easier was to paint the edge of the jaws orange. I also use my flashlight to take a better view.
Don


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JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 07/12/15 06:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

All of that preamble is setting up the question. Has anyone actually dropped a fifth-wheel using a Pullrite Superglide? Not looking for "saw one dropped once" or "heard of one" etc. Just trying to understand if anyone has live experience with this problem when using a Pullrite.

I doubt anyone would admit their Superglide dropped their trailer at this point. Your opening statement closed that door.

Your also saying that the jaws opening is what causes a dropped trailer. Do a serious goole search on droped trailers/etc and you will see there are many ways a 5th wheel trailer can land on the trucks bedrails or land in the street.

When I pulled trailers for a living and hauled out of a loading yard it was those companies policies to do the tug and then a visual. If you were stupid enough to not do them and got caught you were told to unhook and get in your truck and leave...... and forget about ever hauling sub contract for that company.
Yep big rigs drop trailers also with pro grade HD hitches.....and also for various reasons.


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

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MFL

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Posted: 07/12/15 07:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

djgarcia wrote:

MNRon wrote:

korbe I'm with you, I don't understand the value of a pull test IF you visually see the jaws wrapped around the pin AND the wider pin flange below the jaws. I even painted my pin flange to make it easier to see this. I try to follow the proper process/procedure hooking up and ALWAYS visually look, but have never done a pull-test to double-check my visual check...just sayin', not recommending to others or trying to start a flame war...


Micki Bitsko says "If you do the pull test you have nothing to loose and everything to gain". Every RV technician/sales that I have talked to has always recommended doing the pull test.


Do you really think they would tell you not to and risk a law suit?

When I had a RBW hitch I did a pull test. Made sense because you physically could not tell for a fact everything was latched.

If I had a hitch that had a color code or some other obscure method of latching I sure would do a pull test also!

Close the handle lock it and check that the plates are touching and the 1" jaws are closed. No need to do a pull test. Do a pull if you want but I do a visual test.

[image]


When I purchased a similar hitch, to the one pictured, my first thought was, what keeps these jaws from opening.

I looked at the jaws, while working the lever, to see the workings inside. It was obvious, the way this hitch is designed, it cannot open with the lever closed, and locked/pinned.

You only need to see the jaws closed around the pin.

Jerry





C-Bears

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Posted: 07/12/15 07:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm not sure what everyone's hurry is. Why not hold your brake controller and do a gentle pull test after hooking up? It is going to take about 15 seconds and you will be assured that your brakes are connected and your hitch is locked.

I guess I would rather go through some of these double safety checks than go out and purchase a bed saver.


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SPENDING THE WINTERS AT OUR HOME IN SW FLORIDA. THE REST OF THE YEAR SEEING THE U.S. FROM OUR LIVING ROOM WINDOW!


Cummins12V98

on the road

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Posted: 07/12/15 09:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MFL wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

djgarcia wrote:

MNRon wrote:

korbe I'm with you, I don't understand the value of a pull test IF you visually see the jaws wrapped around the pin AND the wider pin flange below the jaws. I even painted my pin flange to make it easier to see this. I try to follow the proper process/procedure hooking up and ALWAYS visually look, but have never done a pull-test to double-check my visual check...just sayin', not recommending to others or trying to start a flame war...


Micki Bitsko says "If you do the pull test you have nothing to loose and everything to gain". Every RV technician/sales that I have talked to has always recommended doing the pull test.


Do you really think they would tell you not to and risk a law suit?

When I had a RBW hitch I did a pull test. Made sense because you physically could not tell for a fact everything was latched.

If I had a hitch that had a color code or some other obscure method of latching I sure would do a pull test also!

Close the handle lock it and check that the plates are touching and the 1" jaws are closed. No need to do a pull test. Do a pull if you want but I do a visual test.

[image]


When I purchased a similar hitch, to the one pictured, my first thought was, what keeps these jaws from opening.

I looked at the jaws, while working the lever, to see the workings inside. It was obvious, the way this hitch is designed, it cannot open with the lever closed, and locked/pinned.

You only need to see the jaws closed around the pin.

Jerry


Thank you!

One BIG reason I push B&W is because of their simple solid design. Newbies this is the hitch for you and people with the opportunity to change hitches really look them over. I went form a RBW that I "THOUGHT" was the best until a friend insisted I change to a B&W. What at first sold me was having a clean bed because I used my truck for construction. After using the hitch and doing a pull test fro a while I finally realized it was a waste of time. I from then on started doing a VISUAL test as you should with any hitch.

If you are happy with your hitch that's great or if you do a pull test that is great. I am giving my opinion and experience that others with a open mind can decide what's best for them.

In the market just don't go by what your dealer wants you to buy because that's what he makes the most money on do your research.


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jnharley

Anywhere, U.S.A.

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Posted: 07/12/15 09:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We had a Pullrite for 11 years and never had a problem with it. We now have a B&W hitch with the puck system in our new Dodge dually. We always do a pull test, we both visually check, and we do a light check. Safety is a priority for us and none of this takes more than a minute to accomplish.


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Coach-man

Florida

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Posted: 07/12/15 09:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mileshuff wrote:

The SuperGlide is nearly impossible to high-hitch, one of the more common mistakes new 5'er owners make. The capture plate on the king pin makes it unlikely that high-hitching can occur. So not sure how you could ever drop the 5'er if the hitch engaged.


X2! I love my Super Glide! In looking at other hitches they have "jaws" that close from either side. If not latched those jaws could open dropping the trailer. The superglide wraps around the pin, if not hitched correctly you can not get it to wrap around, and you can tell immeadiatley that you are not connected.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 07/12/15 09:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jnharley wrote:

We had a Pullrite for 11 years and never had a problem with it. We now have a B&W hitch with the puck system in our new Dodge dually. We always do a pull test, we both visually check, and we do a light check. Safety is a priority for us and none of this takes more than a minute to accomplish.


I assume your RAM is newer than the 12 listed in your sig. 13 and newer RAM's have the puck system if ordered that way. Great option!

Your choice to do a pull test if you want but after doing your visual test and all looks correct no way can it unhitch. Of course you can if you so choose!

Is this what your hitch looks like?

[image]

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