So I am going to attempt to post a long set of details on how I got my older KWIKEE Level Best Hydraulic control panel replaced. The best I can tell I have the system in the image below. I don't know what the model number is, I just know it's on my 1995 National Dolphin Motorhome. Other diagrams I have seen are sending ground signal to the pump and valves, but my system needed 12V Positive sent instead. So my setup is different than other posts I have seen.
Below you can see what the control panel looks like. I searched high and low and couldn't find anything online about this control system.
As shown below there is a 16 wire plug and a 4 wire plug going to the panel. The 4 wire harness runs under to the middle of the RV. I can only guess this was either originally used to indicate the RV was level, or somehow it registered the sensors for the jacks being all up. Most of the round rings around my jacks are broke so the up sensors are not able to work anyway.
To build my control panel I used the following items.
4 post Automotive relay with the following pins, 85,86,87,30
5 x DPDT 6 post momentary switches
1 x SPST toggle switch (I used an illuminated one)
4 different colors of 16 gauge wire
8 Diodes. I used 3 amp 50 volt Epoxy Rectifier Diodes from Radio Shack. I may end up needing to get bigger amperage diodes, but these were what I could find.
Lots of wire disconnects blue and red cover 16 gauage wire
Lots of tap splices, or you can choose to solder and heat shrink all your connections.
Some heat shrinking material
Electrical tape
Wire your switches according to the diagram I have provided below. My RV did not have a E-Brake activated ground, so I just used the main ground. Although I may install an E-brake ground wire for safety later on.
TIP: Use a multimeter to verify you wiring your diodes correctly. You want 12v positive flowing in the direction of the ARROW >|
Below is a diagram I built of my pump. Showing which valves and wires control what function. Notice the ground is looped between all the valves. Some of the wire colors may have faded over time. Cut back some of the protective sheathing on the wire harness to ensure you are getting the right colors.
Below you see my old panel with new switches installed. Left is for up, Right is for down. Up on the ALL UP switch raises all jacks.
Below is the back of my switches. Its easy to see why you want to use 4 colors of wire to keep your sanity.
And finally you have to completed assembly, ready to plug in. Note that my wiring harness did not have a pin for ground. My ground is spliced into a existing ground under the console using a disconnect.
So there you have it. My variation of a KWIKEE control panel. While I am not able to get sensor lights or anything of that nature, having someone help visually inspect that the jacks are fully retracted is good enough for me. At least now I can get it level.
Below you can see what the control panel looks like. I searched high and low and couldn't find anything online about this control system.
As shown below there is a 16 wire plug and a 4 wire plug going to the panel. The 4 wire harness runs under to the middle of the RV. I can only guess this was either originally used to indicate the RV was level, or somehow it registered the sensors for the jacks being all up. Most of the round rings around my jacks are broke so the up sensors are not able to work anyway.
To build my control panel I used the following items.
4 post Automotive relay with the following pins, 85,86,87,30
5 x DPDT 6 post momentary switches
1 x SPST toggle switch (I used an illuminated one)
4 different colors of 16 gauge wire
8 Diodes. I used 3 amp 50 volt Epoxy Rectifier Diodes from Radio Shack. I may end up needing to get bigger amperage diodes, but these were what I could find.
Lots of wire disconnects blue and red cover 16 gauage wire
Lots of tap splices, or you can choose to solder and heat shrink all your connections.
Some heat shrinking material
Electrical tape
Wire your switches according to the diagram I have provided below. My RV did not have a E-Brake activated ground, so I just used the main ground. Although I may install an E-brake ground wire for safety later on.
TIP: Use a multimeter to verify you wiring your diodes correctly. You want 12v positive flowing in the direction of the ARROW >|
Below is a diagram I built of my pump. Showing which valves and wires control what function. Notice the ground is looped between all the valves. Some of the wire colors may have faded over time. Cut back some of the protective sheathing on the wire harness to ensure you are getting the right colors.
Below you see my old panel with new switches installed. Left is for up, Right is for down. Up on the ALL UP switch raises all jacks.
Below is the back of my switches. Its easy to see why you want to use 4 colors of wire to keep your sanity.
And finally you have to completed assembly, ready to plug in. Note that my wiring harness did not have a pin for ground. My ground is spliced into a existing ground under the console using a disconnect.
So there you have it. My variation of a KWIKEE control panel. While I am not able to get sensor lights or anything of that nature, having someone help visually inspect that the jacks are fully retracted is good enough for me. At least now I can get it level.
