Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Painting an aluminum TT
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westend

Shorewood, MN

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Joined: 11/17/2011

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Posted: 01/14/17 01:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mbrower wrote:

I have been a auto painter for a while now and I agree Imron is probably not a good paint for DIYers. Very toxic and not user friendly. Most any 2K urethane paints are also toxic and require an air fed hooded respirator to spray safely. Before I use house paint, If the siding was in decent shape. I would wash it really well with a strong degreaser and a red 3M scotch pad. I would then paint it with rustoleum thinned by directions.

I have painted a lot of things with rustoleum and it has held up surprisingly well through the years. Better than what most RV manufacturers are using these days. The only big drawback is drying time. I'm not talking spray bombing but purchasing the gallon cans, thinning and spraying with automotive spray gun.

Good quality automotive paint and primers are very expensive and desired results will vary with the painter's skill level. Not worth it to me on a common travel trailer that will see a lot of use.

Agreed totally.

FWIW, I painted some military vehicles awhile back. One was an old ambulance, white with black trim and headlamps. The owner bought some oil based enamel at the hardware store. After the filling and sanding, that cheap enamel really made a good finish. The headlamps were beautiful.

Yes, for using any paint and for prepping, the 3m pads are the deal for scuffing. I used a prepaint conditioner made by Jasco on my trailer. It is a phosphate based product. I scuff away with the conditioner on the aluminum siding (painted or bare metal) and follow that with rinsing and more scuffing. This process removes any oxidation in the paint or the bare metal (important).

Sherwin Williams Industrial Direct To Metal primer bonds as good as any other I've used. That includes any two or three part zinc chromate I've used for commercial marine. The dealer can tint it to match finish colors.


'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Gjac

Milford, CT

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Posted: 01/17/17 08:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For an older RV I would look at something like tractor paint from TS store. It is made for tractors that sit out side for years in the weather and sun. It is much cheaper than car paint or boat paints. The paint cost about $30/gal and from what I have read is that the only down side is that they will fade in the sun after a few years but will fade very gradual and evenly. I would prepare the surface as others have suggested then use a spray gun to apply the paint. I don't know if anyone one here has tried this type of paint but I would be interested in their experience with it. I talked to a farmer that told me he used it on all his outdoor equipment and it holds up well.

westend

Shorewood, MN

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Posted: 01/17/17 10:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gjac wrote:

For an older RV I would look at something like tractor paint from TS store. It is made for tractors that sit out side for years in the weather and sun. It is much cheaper than car paint or boat paints. The paint cost about $30/gal and from what I have read is that the only down side is that they will fade in the sun after a few years but will fade very gradual and evenly. I would prepare the surface as others have suggested then use a spray gun to apply the paint. I don't know if anyone one here has tried this type of paint but I would be interested in their experience with it. I talked to a farmer that told me he used it on all his outdoor equipment and it holds up well.
A good quality oil enamel will hold well. These harder enamels may tend to crack with movement, acrylic latex being superior in that regard. I've done a few tractors and never had a problem with enamel on those surfaces. Back in the day, enamel was used for car bodies, also.

I've used good latex finish paint on a variety of surfaces and, if the prep is done right, they last for years. Right now, I could point out a number of garage doors and even some tanks that have been sprayed with latex that are still very good in appearance.

ATM, my trailer has a bit of grunge on the walls and roof. In the Spring, it will get a wash, wax, and repaint on the aluminum roof. It still looks good after four years, even without a clear coat to protect the finish paint. It is just as I would expect for painted aluminum siding.

LessiePMcCord

Vancouver

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Posted: 11/30/20 06:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I also have been working as an auto painter, and I liked my job. Now I have a few investment projects that generate, passive income and I don't fill the necessity to work, but again I liked my job. I would like to recommend you something as I see a lot of folks make this mistake when they just start their way as a paint specialist. Guys, remember, that if you want to paint something, first you have to remove the old paint. This is crucial if you want to get the best result. If you don't believe me, you can check the site I found a few years ago, namely, on this site https://www.palmgear.com/best-paint-stripper-reviews/, I found out that it is so important to remove the old paint before repainting an item.

* This post was edited 12/03/20 06:32am by LessiePMcCord *





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