Adding insulation WITHOUT tearing up the rig??

[DoxieBox]

Just got a used 31' trailer w/ 2 slide outs and ONE, yes, 1 roof A/C. Still haven't determined BTU of said A/C...need to locate that info. We will be using it for the first time in about a week at Lake Havasu, AZ. I already know, it's gonna get HOT in there.

I have combed the Innerwebz for ideas on keepin my cool, and already picked up some Reflectix for the windows and inside cabinets that back to outer walls, obtained a few shade sails to place strategically outside for shade, and will go get a portable A/C that vents out a window (anyone do that and have tips??) I will be ripping out the carpet and vinyl flooring to redo with wood laminate...hoping a beefy underlayment aids with this as well.

What I'd like to figure out: IS there a way to add some more insulation to the hot box WITHOUT ripping into the walls and such?? I'm so afraid of the extreme temps, that I'm almost willing to sacrifice aesthetics and just roll that Reflectix right over the walls during Summer! ALMOST.


GO.... (and thanks!;)

[carringb]

BEWARE of Reflectix inside windows in the sun on hot days. It can heat up the windows enough to melt the sealant! I caught mine early enough it only got tacky, but a quick search found plenty of folks who got theirs so hot the sealant ran out. If you can shade the window from the outside, then it works great! Just not when the window gets direct sun all day.

Also some sort of shade on the roof will help, as will slide toppers, since slideouts have much less roof insulation.

[DoxieBox]

wowens79 wrote:
This may seem minor, but put some 3" foam in any skylight, or vent fan openings. It really made a difference in our camper in the bathroom.

I was just looking into that- the bathroom skylight is the larger "bump up" type and I wanted to cover that, but wasn't sure what to use that would not get mildewy from showers.

And the skylight in the bunkroom needs covering. I know they sell inserts for just that. But what type of foam do you use and where do you get yours? Thanks!

[DoxieBox]

Timmac...Sweet shade set up! I wish they'd allow that where I stay! I guess I sacrifice shade for lake front. 😕 Altho- there is a park or 2 along the river that allow shade structures like that if your monthly. I know the shade guy at the OC Marketplace (at the OC Fairgrounds swap meet) has been going out to the river area to do set ups. They have to be extremely well built due to the sudden micro-bursts of hurricane force winds that pop up out of the blue. I should ask if my park would allow that.

Caveman Charlie... agree on that. We told the service guys to do just that. Also found out we DO have the larger A/C at 15k, so that's good.

[wowens79]

This may seem minor, but put some 3" foam in any skylight, or vent fan openings. It really made a difference in our camper in the bathroom.

[CavemanCharlie]

Make sure that the roof unit you have has a clean condenser and evaporator.

I took the cover off of the top my roof unit after 5 years of just weekend use and was surprised to see how much dirt had accumulated on the coil.

Might as well make sure the unit you have is working as efficiently as possible.

[timmac]

DoxieBox wrote:
I would LOVE to park in the shade...but this is the desert. There just isn't any! No trees or what have you.

Anything I do for shade has to, 1: Look aesthetically tasteful due to park constraints, and 2: Not fly away or shred in the insane winds that pop up there in the desert.

I did a quick search and found Exterior Window Solar Shades for RVs/Trailers...snap on would work best for our applications.

Also found a few boondockers who venture out to Burning Man that have constructed a truss of sorts, up on top of their rig. It holds a solar shade cloth (sail shade) about a foot off the roof. You can use the truss posts to tie off more shades that anchor to the ground. Asked on of them how they constructed this truss/frame. Looks like aluminum posts somehow attached to the roof top, but can't see how, without disturbing the roof. Waiting for a reply. They say it really helps keep their old rig much cooler. Well, as cool as it can get w/o A/C in the blazing desert valley!

Most RV parks will frown on some kind of shade structure, maybe look for a rental private lot in that area for RV parking with hookups and build a shade structure like I did here in Vegas.

Even on a hot day the black paint is still cool to the touch


Holds up well even in Vegas high winds

[DoxieBox]

opnspaces wrote:

Are you looking for lakes you can overnight on, or just something close for the day. there's always San Vicente and El Capitan in Lakeside for day use, but you can't stay the night.

Oh wow, I didn't know San Vicente finally reopened! It's been forever!! We overnight...we just leave the trailer at an RV park out at Havasu and go every other weekend for about 4 nights.

It's a huge lake/river, it's never closed like El Cap or San Vicente, we can go as fast as we like, there's plenty of beaches and coves, etc... I mean, I wouldn't mind going to one for the day, but it's not a "destination lake" for that RV/boating experience.

[opnspaces]

DoxieBox wrote:
Thanks for all the advice! I went to the service guys and asked for an estimate to install another...we'll see! Liking that dual hose Port A/C!

We vacay out there cuz that's where our boat is/it's cheap. Living in So Cal, ya gotta take what you can get! There are NO lakes we can use our boat on close. We ARE considering the ocean/San Diego- but it's expensive! After paying for the trailer space, boat slip and gas, WHEW! Plus, I don't love floating in salt like I do the fresh water lake. So we considered Big Bear, but there's that pesky money again! Plus that lake gets geechy and seems to evaporate while you're out on it till your dock is on dry land.

Are you looking for lakes you can overnight on, or just something close for the day. there's always San Vicente and El Capitan in Lakeside for day use, but you can't stay the night.

[DoxieBox]

I would LOVE to park in the shade...but this is the desert. There just isn't any! No trees or what have you.

Anything I do for shade has to, 1: Look aesthetically tasteful due to park constraints, and 2: Not fly away or shred in the insane winds that pop up there in the desert.

I did a quick search and found Exterior Window Solar Shades for RVs/Trailers...snap on would work best for our applications.

Also found a few boondockers who venture out to Burning Man that have constructed a truss of sorts, up on top of their rig. It holds a solar shade cloth (sail shade) about a foot off the roof. You can use the truss posts to tie off more shades that anchor to the ground. Asked on of them how they constructed this truss/frame. Looks like aluminum posts somehow attached to the roof top, but can't see how, without disturbing the roof. Waiting for a reply. They say it really helps keep their old rig much cooler. Well, as cool as it can get w/o A/C in the blazing desert valley!

[Naio]

Shading the windows on the OUTSIDE, rather than the inside helps tremendously. I have done this with sheets and zipties for short term when desperate, but you can buy kits to make nice looking custom shades out of real shade cloth. Or put your reflectix on the outside.

And yes, if you can find a way to shade the roof that will be the other biggest factor. What about one of those portable carport things? Too $$?

[tatest]

On your Jayfeather all flat walls are already full of insulation, except where channels might be cut for wiring and plumbing runs. The wall is made of a foam insulating board with a light wood skin glued to both sides, and a layer of composite sheeting on the outside. So anything you add to walls will have to be inside the trailer or outside the trailer.

I'm not sure of your roof construction, there may be possibilities there if it has been built up hollow. I know that my roof is a built like the walls, a slab of foam insulation with inner and outer skins.

One of your problems is that your TT is way too large for a single 13,500 BTU air conditioner, in sunny country. Another is that it is a lightweight, so it has been built with thinner walls than traditionally used for RVs built with foam core wall panels. Two inches is typical, lightweights might have walls an inch and a half to an inch and an eighth.

A lot more heat goes through the windows than through the walls, and most of the heat comes from solar radiation rather that air temperature differences. Thus reflective insulation is the best place to start, and the windows the first candidates for coverage. Another really good idea is to park in the shade where possible.

I learned how much the sun heats my RV (2 inch walls, 3-6 inch roof, 2 inch floor insulation) when I parked it closed up in the sun on a 70 degree day. It took only 3 hours for the inside temperature to exceed 99F, highest reading on my thermostat. Opening windows and using the vent fan to pull in outside air cooled it down to about 5 F above ambient.

[DoxieBox]

westend wrote:
Since you're going to be in the same location for a spell, I'd suggest to install a window unit in the trailer. That can be as easy or as complicated as you'd like to make it.

Done and done. We had a small window unit (5k BTUs) doing nothing, so we stuck it in the emergency exit window in the living room with a heavy duty tripod stand outside (not sure what it used to do; been sitting around forever. Prolly held a giant speaker). We fabricated a surround to seal it well from a pc of King Starboard we had laying around. We'll run the cord to the pole power with whichever A/C extension cord is the shortest that will reach (we carry the major appliance, hefty cords in everything from 3' to 15'). This will work for the short term until we can add the 2nd roof unit! Doesn't even look ghetto!:R

[westend]

Since you're going to be in the same location for a spell, I'd suggest to install a window unit in the trailer. That can be as easy or as complicated as you'd like to make it.
If it was me, I'd purchase the largest (8K BTU?) that fits a window in your trailer. I'd also install a separate branch circuit/circuit breaker/shore cord so that the window unit operates separately than the main A/C and other 120V loads. You might get lucky and find that a new, highly efficient 5K or 6K BTU unit may run while plugged into an existing receptacle, operating along with the existing roof unit. Some of the newer window units are very efficient.

About insulation: There is little that you can do without looking janky using exterior treatments. I know that I would deploy shade if at all possible. FWIW, I tore my trailer down to the studs and spent two weeks-full time installing new insulation. It is one of the best projects I've done. Besides the total silence, it is easy to heat and cool. BTW, painting the roof with new ultra-bright white roof paint lowered my interior temperature 10 f.

[DoxieBox]

TxTiger wrote:

X2 on dual hose. I use one at my house in areas to help the central unit, also has a heat pump heater. Both the air conditioning and heating works very well. Mine is a Whynter 14,000 BTU. $460 on Amazon.

That's the one I was just looking at! So how do you plug it in; just into a regular plug in the coach? Or do you run it out the pole?