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 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

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Posted: 02/18/20 09:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I changed the floor plan just a little bit. The refer is going to go all the way at the rear. We were thinking of putting the shelves/drawers here and the refer in front of it, next to the wall with the archway on the passenger side.

This way, I can vent the refer on the rear wall instead of the side wall. The rear wall will have a larger roof overhang than the side, so having a leak will be less likely than on the side.



[image]


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sundancer268

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Posted: 02/19/20 04:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Will the negative pressure behind the motor home affect the reefer while running down the road? I would worry about the flame blowing out and the dirt entering the space behind the reefer.


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fulltimin

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Posted: 02/19/20 08:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sundancer268 wrote:

Will the negative pressure behind the motor home affect the reefer while running down the road? I would worry about the flame blowing out and the dirt entering the space behind the reefer.



I considered that scenario. I do plan on using some small fans at the back to help keep air moving through there, which should help with overall cooling in general.

As far as when driving, shutting off the gas would eliminate that issue. We typically don't drive long distances or many hours at a time, so shutting it off shouldn't be much of an issue.

I could also run it on AC which would also eliminate the pilot light issue.

What do ya think folks? Am I barking up the wrong tree here? I can still vent this out the side, if need be.

STBRetired

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Posted: 02/19/20 10:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Venting out the back, which is basically the side of the fridge, will pose some challenges in ensuring proper airflow across the coils. The air will try to take the shortest path (least resistance) to the exit vent. I would suspect that you will get more airflow on the right-hand side (looking from inside the MH) than you will on the left-hand side. Not sure what the uneven cooling will do to the condenser coils. Maybe it could be solved with some creative ductwork and fans. Speaking of which, since you will be depending on the fans instead of natural convection, I would suggest considering installing he ARP add-on controller to prevent the overheating of the boiler should one or more fans fail.

I will be bringing my MH home from storage on Friday and will look at the installation instructions for my Dometic fridge to see if they have any instructions for venting the fridge in the manner that you are thinking. My fridge is installed with the air intake on the side and exhaust through the roof. The MH is over 20 years old and there is no sign of any leakage around the fridge vents. I don't recall ever hearing about anybody getting water intrusion through their fridge vents.


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STBRetired

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Posted: 02/19/20 11:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK. Being the impatient person that I can be on occasion, I downloaded the installation manual from Dometic. It does not list any installation method that would match what you described.
[image]
These are the closest ones to what you described.
The offset vent would still be on the side, just either shifted towards the front or the back depending on which side the boiler is on.
[image]
For the corner mounted fridge, the vents would be on the side if your boiler is to the right when looking at the back of the fridge. But they would be on the back if the boiler is on the left.
[image]
According to the installation guide, only the RM1350XXX refrigerators have the boiler on the left. Maybe you'll be lucky and that is the model you have. Of course, it would require a design change and might not work because of the window placement.

They also describe an island installation where the intake is through the floor, but it requires the exhaust to go through the roof. Not 100% sure that you couldn't vent the exhaust out the back wall with fans, but that probably would not be an approved installation in Dometic's eyes.

Maybe a residential fridge would solve all of your issues as it requires no external venting.

Bill.Satellite

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Posted: 02/19/20 04:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fulltimin does not care about stupid things like instructions! Unless you are brand new to this thread you should already understand that.


What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

STBRetired

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Posted: 02/19/20 05:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yeah, I've been following this thread since the beginning so I know that fullltimin likes to do things "outside the box". I don't think he would risk his rig and perhaps family by doing something really strange that might result in a fridge fire. I did HVAC for 7 years before I got into electronics / IT. I would not feel comfortable trying to devise a ducting solution to run the fridge venting out sideways without lots more detailed airflow requirements from Dometic and the equipment to measure it.

There's a market for used propane fridges, so he could probably sell his and get an appreciable amount to put towards the residential setup. Or just vent it out the sidewall as Dometic recommends.

fulltimin

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Posted: 02/19/20 09:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There are several ways of dealing with air movement. I have an installation guide on rv refers. It appears that the main issue is airflow along the back side of the refer.

Mine has the heating pipe on the right side, looking at it from the rear. From the research I've done, if there is too much airspace between the back of the fins and pipes at the rear, the air won't move through them properly, and actually flows behind them, and it won't cool properly.

A residential refer would also solve the problem.

Danfoss also makes a dc compressor, and there is a place in Indiana that uses their compressor, and makes a unit to replace the original rv cooling system, which then makes it strictly a dc powered refer using normal refrigerant.

I haven't called them yet, so I don't know what pricing is. I am guessing a residential refer may be cheaper, and some of those are fairly energy efficient.

That would also solve the venting issue as well, as suggested.

BigRabbitMan

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Posted: 02/19/20 10:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:


Any chance you could get the specs of that camshaft for me? That would be fantastic info to have.

I’ll give it a try.


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jtaylor1920

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Posted: 02/19/20 10:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:

There are several ways of dealing with air movement. I have an installation guide on rv refers. It appears that the main issue is airflow along the back side of the refer.

Mine has the heating pipe on the right side, looking at it from the rear. From the research I've done, if there is too much airspace between the back of the fins and pipes at the rear, the air won't move through them properly, and actually flows behind them, and it won't cool properly.

A residential refer would also solve the problem.

Danfoss also makes a dc compressor, and there is a place in Indiana that uses their compressor, and makes a unit to replace the original rv cooling system, which then makes it strictly a dc powered refer using normal refrigerant.

I haven't called them yet, so I don't know what pricing is. I am guessing a residential refer may be cheaper, and some of those are fairly energy efficient.

That would also solve the venting issue as well, as suggested.


You may be thinking about conversion units by JC Refrigeration. If I remember correctly, they are a bit pricey. You can pick up a smaller counter depth residential for less, but if you dry camp a lot you’ll want a few more batteries, an inverter and generator to keep things running.

Here is the link to JC Refrigeration - Link


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