Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Page  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 661  
Prev  |  Next
Bruce Brown

Northern NY

Moderator

Joined: 06/01/2001

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 05/19/20 07:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:

Brob wrote:

Do you have a plan on when you may have the opportunity to permanently install the TPO roof?

Any more thoughts on using it for the siding?




Sorry, I didn't see your post last night. I went to bed early.

As far as gluing it down, I need to figure out how to get up to the correct height, so I can apply the glue, and still be able to manipulate the TPO without putting air bubbles in it. My truck bed is about 3' off the ground, but I still need some additional height, and trying to use a ladder just isn't going to cut it.

Some scaffolding would probably be a great addition, but I'll need it to be 20 feet long, (truck bed is 16'), and I suppose work from one side, and then the other.

I still need to purchase the glue for the TPO.



Why not work from the roof?

I've done (2) roofs recently. Take the material and lay it out over the roof. Once you're satisfied with where it's at roll it up to one end. Next put your glue in a paint tray and roll it on a section at a time, unrolling the TPO on to the glued section as you go. I normally do 4-5 feet at a time. Use a floor squeegee or broom to work any bubbles out as you go. It really isn't a bad job. The first one I did I was thinking I'd need help. When I was ready to do it no one was around so I figured I'd get started. Easy job. When I did the second one I didn't want anyone around.

On the glue, check with your local roofing supply house or RV dealer. When I was looking I found the glue was cheap enough, the freight wasn't. My local RV dealer buys it in buckets - they were happy to sell me a few gallons.


There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910


fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/19/20 09:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bruce Brown wrote:



Why not work from the roof?

I've done (2) roofs recently. Take the material and lay it out over the roof. Once you're satisfied with where it's at roll it up to one end. Next put your glue in a paint tray and roll it on a section at a time, unrolling the TPO on to the glued section as you go. I normally do 4-5 feet at a time. Use a floor squeegee or broom to work any bubbles out as you go. It really isn't a bad job. The first one I did I was thinking I'd need help. When I was ready to do it no one was around so I figured I'd get started. Easy job. When I did the second one I didn't want anyone around.

On the glue, check with your local roofing supply house or RV dealer. When I was looking I found the glue was cheap enough, the freight wasn't. My local RV dealer buys it in buckets - they were happy to sell me a few gallons.



I'll call the outfit I got the TPO from. I am not sure, but I think the TPO adhesive for this, MAY be a contact adhesive. If it is, that may be a little of an issue for me.

Since the roof is curved, I am not sure I can roll this out, from front to rear, without inducing wrinkles. If it's not contact adhesive, and I only have to roll it on the roof, that would make things a lot easier.

Either way, I would think it would be easier to avoid wrinkles starting in the center of the roof, side to side, and rolling out towards the edges. Then again, since I haven't done this yet, I could be wrong.

I am also dealing with a much heavier TPO than is typically used on an rv, so that may help things go better, or worse.

Can you tell, I really don't know?


If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/19/20 09:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wound up working on the PT today instead of the motor home. What happened, COULD have happened to an rv, so I am going to post what I did to repair it.

Calm down, it's a short post.

Came home and a bunch of steam was escaping from under the hood, as well as a stream of water running down the driveway.

Turns out, there is a tube running from the front of the engine to the heater core, and it had a hole in it. Obviously, when the engine is up to normal temp, and the cooling system under pressure, a small hole can blow a lot of water out.



[image]



What to do? Cut the pipe in half.



[image]



Add some heater hose and a few clamps, and it's not leaking any longer. Wahoo!



[image]



Turns out, that pipe is one of a pair going to and coming from the heater core. Rock Auto has a replacement for about $75.00, and our local NAPA dealer has one for $150.00.

I didn't know that until I was done. That may end up being a permanent repair.

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/19/20 09:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Anyhow, back to the shelves. I used my 6' level to straighten out the shelves, since they are currently not fastened to the wall. You can see here that the level and the shelf are aligned well.



[image]



After straightening the shelf, I marked a line on the wall, underneath the shelf. I will pull the shelves off, and add a 1/2" or 3/4" square underneath the line, and fasten that to the wall. When I put the shelves back up, I can then fasten the shelves to the square wood to keep the shelf level, and help support the weight of any items we put on the shelves.



[image]



The red square indicates where the extra wood will go to support the entire length of the shelf from side to side.

Between the brace at the back, and the face frame on the front, that should keep the shelves nice and flat.

PastorCharlie

NC

Senior Member

Joined: 03/28/2004

View Profile





Offline
Posted: 05/20/20 12:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is the floor level?

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/20/20 08:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PastorCharlie wrote:

Is the floor level?



Who cares? Lol...

Actually, the floor is level. I jacked up the front end a little while ago to make sure it's level.

However, I wasn't using the level to "level" the shelves. I was just using the level as a straight edge, to make sure the shelves were straight, so I could mark the walls.

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/20/20 08:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Today, I cut my strips for supporting the shelves. Made them 1/2" square, and glued them to the wall, as well as using Kreg screws to hold them while the adhesive cures.



[image]

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/20/20 08:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After attaching the strips, I put the shelves back into place, and secured the one end to the bath wall with several screws and adhesive.



[image]

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/20/20 09:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The opposite end is secured to the wall and ceiling. I applied adhesive between the shelf end and the wall, indicated by the arrows. The opposite end also has adhesive in these same places.



[image]

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/20/20 09:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The inside view of the shelf end shows the screw, (red circle), which is secured into a piece of 1/2" thick plywood in the ceiling.

The arrows show a closer view of where the adhesive is between the shelf end and the wall, and ceiling.



[image]

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Page  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 661  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.