LouLawrence

Traveling the US!

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So there is going to be a 6" roof overhang around 3 sides of the coach? I sure don't want you to start 10 more pages of testing posts but aren't you concerned how 80-100 MPH winds (combined driving + wind speed) might effect that? No reason to mention the amount of damage that is likely from tree branches and the like!
* This post was
edited 05/04/22 06:25am by LouLawrence *
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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Joined: 12/14/2003

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Bruce Brown wrote: No need to go overboard there. Run a little 120 grit paper down the cut, put a piece of guerilla tape around the edge then glue the TPO down. Works great, and yes, I have done it myself so I know it works. My RV tech buddy, who literally grew up in the business gave me the tip.
The fly in the ointment here is that I am using .060 thickness which is reinforced and does not bend well around corners.
I can check, but I may still need to round off the corners. When I did the sides, I rounded off the top edge, and it seemed to help it make the bend.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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LouLawrence wrote: So there is going to be a 6" roof overhang around 3 sides of the coach? I sure don't want you to start 10 more pages of testing posts but aren't you concerned how 80-1000 MPH winds (combined driving + wind speed) might effect that? No reason to mention the amount of damage that is likely from tree branches and the like!
Only 10 pages of testing????
Actually, the sides only have about 1.5" of overhang, which is also about 6-8 inches lower than the roof itself.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sideoverhang.jpg)
I wouldn't expect much of a problem driving down the road, plus if I add an awning on the passenger side, that will stick out farther than the side of the roof.
The rear overhang, will stick out past the rear wall of the coach about like the rear bumper, but most branches will be at the upper level.
Should be just a matter of being careful with an outside spotter to keep things from getting destroyed. (famous last words).
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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Baby sitting duty yesterday.
Rained this morning, so I worked on a computer.
Researched and ordered a computer to build early this afternoon.
After that, I mowed the yard, (mostly).
As soon as I was done, it rained. So much for working on the roof of the moho.
However, here's a couple of updates.
First, going on 2 years for testing Por 15 clear on a piece of copper tubing. It still has not started to tarnish.
I think at this point, it's not going to, thanks to the ability of Por 15 to completely seal the item from outside moisture.
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fulltimin

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Next, here is a piece of fiberglass cloth, covered with Bondo fiberglass resin.
I cut this to size to match the earlier Epoxy and Por 15 test over fiberglass cloth.
The black arrow points to the Por 15 coated cloth.
The red arrow points to the Epoxy coated cloth.
The blue arrow points the Fiberglass resin coated cloth.
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fulltimin

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At this point, I am not sure if I want to be depressed, happy, or just plain miffed.
It dawned on me that I had not tested Fiberglass Resin with the Fiberglass cloth for strength.
So, I did just that. Based on the preceding pic, I made sure the Fiberglass Resin over fiberglass cloth was the same width.
I stuck it in my test setup.
You may remember that the Epoxy tore at 455 lbs, and the Por 15 tore at a little over 400 lbs.
Here is the Fiberglass resin test.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/testingfiberglass5.jpg)
This is a little bit blurry, but the scale is at 535 lbs.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/testingfiberglass6.jpg)
This hasn't torn yet, but the I stopped the test because the Fiberglass resin test started to slip at this point. If you look at the earlier pic, you can see the screw holes are elongated, because during the test the resin/cloth started to slip.
So, I am not sure if I want to be impressed, depressed, or thrilled?
So far, looks like the Bondo Fiberglass resin over Fiberglass cloth is a winner.
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ro_sie

South Carolina

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Joined: 11/19/2006

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So far, looks like the Bondo Fiberglass resin over Fiberglass cloth is a winner.
We used that several times to repair vettes. Bondo gets heavy if you use a lot of it.
ro_sie
Art ( my roomie)
Fleetwood Revolution LE
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fulltimin

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ro_sie wrote: So far, looks like the Bondo Fiberglass resin over Fiberglass cloth is a winner.
We used that several times to repair vettes. Bondo gets heavy if you use a lot of it.
What surprised me was that it hadn't torn at 535 lbs. It did start to slip in the wooden clamps a little, hence the elongated screw holes on the one end.
The Epoxy tore at 455 lbs and the Por 15 a little over 400 lbs. I want to fasten the ends a little more securely and see how much more I can get out of the Bondo resin.
Then again, my scale tops out at 660 lbs, although, I am not sure I'll get there.
The big difference is cost. Epoxy and Por 15 are around $170.00 a gallon, and Bondo is around $70 a gallon.
The Bondo resin is listed as waterproof, although it is also not completely clear like the Epoxy.
Por 15 is not fully clear either, so it depends on the usage.
However, Bondo with Bondo Fiberglass cloth looks pretty good.
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fulltimin

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Here we go ... Another day of wonderful liquid sunshine....
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fulltimin

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Another wonderful day of liquid sunshine. It's supposed to be nice tomorrow, maybe I can get more work done on the back of the roof. Wahoo!
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