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 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

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Posted: 07/10/18 08:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is our next test which consists of 1.5 inches of blue board foam insulation, with another 2.7mm plywood glued on the top, and also glued on the bottom.

Our starting temperature of the bottom of the tarp is a few degrees cooler than the temp for the 3" insulation, but not much.



[image]


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fulltimin

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Posted: 07/10/18 08:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Checking the temperature at the bottom of this sandwich was a little bit of a surprise. This temperature was actually a few degrees lower than the 3 inch insulation test. This reading is 115.8 instead of 119.1.

However, we started 3.2 degrees lower on the tarp temp with this 1.5" insulation, and the bottom test gives 3.3 degrees lower with this 1.5" insulation. So, basically, there really isn't any difference between the 1.5" and 3" thickness.

That surprised me. I expected some difference, instead of nearly the same.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 07/10/18 08:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is the temp of the steel joist underneath the insulation. Again, this is basically a wash between the 1.5 and 3 inch insulation. I wasn't expecting these results.



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fulltimin

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Posted: 07/10/18 09:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, keeping the heat from the outside getting to the steel framing is definitely a top priority, to prevent roasting in the summer.

Also, keeping the heat from getting to the steel framing from the INSIDE in the winter, is also a priority. Otherwise, the steel framing becomes a heat sink no matter whether it's coming from the outside in the summer and radiating to the inside, or from the inside and radiating from the inside to the outside during the winter.

The only way I know to do that, is to sandwich the steel framing with insulation both on the inside and outside. An air space both inside and outside would be the best of both worlds, but that is probably not going to happen, at least on the side walls. We'll see what I can come up with for the roof.

Bruce Brown

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Posted: 07/11/18 02:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What if you drilled a small hole in the steel tubing then fill it full of spray foam.

That would give you more insulation, more strength, and some noise reduction benefits.


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Posted: 07/11/18 08:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here's a look at how Winnebago did their 4" thick roof edges. The full molded fiberglass roof is thin and molded so it hangs over the nearly rounded edges on the sides. Lots of extruded AL is used of course.

[image]

I can't wait to see how you're going to handle the edges of your rigs roof. You probably already have something in mind...when is the reveal?


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fulltimin

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Posted: 07/11/18 08:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bruce Brown wrote:

What if you drilled a small hole in the steel tubing then fill it full of spray foam.

That would give you more insulation, more strength, and some noise reduction benefits.


While that would probably help with some noise reduction and strength, I am not sure it will help much with insulation.

What I figure is, if the sun heats up the outside of the steel frame, the steel will just radiate the heat around itself until all 4 sides are the same temp, whether there is insulation inside the steel or not.

Maybe I am looking at it wrong, and if so, give me the explanation of where I am missing it.

fulltimin

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Posted: 07/11/18 08:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here are a couple of pics that shows the strength of SikaFlex 252, which is some of the adhesive I have a few tubes of.

I took 2 pieces of plywood and coated them with some SikaFlex, and held them together for a little while at a right angle and let them cure. This is the same test I had done last summer on some of the plywood with glue and Por 15.

I put them in my press to see how much pressure it took to break them apart. It took about the same as gluing plywood together with Titebond 3, which is a waterproof wood glue. Por 15 took about the same pressure before breaking in half.

You can see that some of the glue in the plywood broke apart and the Sikaflex held.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 07/11/18 08:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This shows that the plywood was about 2 inches wide each. So, I had roughly a 2" x 2" square "glued" together.



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fulltimin

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Posted: 07/11/18 08:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here ya go Jim. A little info on how the roof on this attaches to the top of the walls.

Here is drawing number 1.



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